OccyVRS

I can believe it. I'll happily use OBD11 for basic stuff. If I want to long code, I'll get the advice of someone that knows what they're doing. If you don't fully understand what you're doing, like with a lot of things, you can very easily f*** up what you're doing. Manchmal muss man menschen Fehler machen lassen!

You'll either get used to it, or you won't. A friend of mine swears by the HUD and surround-view camera in his BMW, but another still puts an arm over the passenger headrest to reverse into a space. I have the digital dash in my Octavia - not quite comparable, but it makes the point. I can have my music, maps and all sorts in the cluster. I just leave it on the tacho, speedo and oil temp. Maybe if I'm feeling fancy, I'll have the ACC info on it. If you think you'll use the HUD then yes, it's a brilliant feature that can make your life much easier by allowing you to keep your eyes on the road and still access information. If you could leave it, then maybe speccing a sound system or similar might be a better destination for your money? I'd go and test drive one. I know my parents couldn't stand the HUD and discounted the newest model of XYZ because of it.

You did reply, and then un-replied!

It all depends who is deciding what an edge case is. Without wishing to offend anyone, my guess is that a large proportion of the members on here are, at the very least, above the age of 45. Indeed, a large portion of you are (from conversations I've read/had) into your 60s. For those, then I don't doubt that much of the newer range of cars doesn't appeal to you! Heck, I'm in my early 20s and nothing in the line-up appeals to me - there's a reason I drive a 2020 vRS and not a 2025 Elroq. Equally though, I myself am an edge case - the majority of people in and around my age group want a car that goes from A to B, with CarPlay and maybe a nice lease deal. They don't want an estate with room for tools and stuff in the back, because they don't have tools. They don't need 800 miles of range, because they fly. They don't need handling, because who cares. They like a shiny badge, flashy headlights and being a bit higher up than everyone else. That said, I'm not trying to appear a dinosaur - I have nothing against electric cars. I absolutely love the performance aspect of them, and find many aspects of them hugely appealing. I just don't like the designs, interiors or the other stuff that comes with them. If they made a sensible, reasonably-sized electric Golf with a normal/traditional interior and exterior, along with 250bhp and some fun toys, then I'd at least test drive it. Not to mention, of course, that anything electric/hybrid remotely performance based and practical, is completely out of the price range of someone my age. I personally hate the direction that all manufacturers are going. if I had to buy a brand new car today, and it had to be realistic, I'm not sure what I'd get. I love a manual, but that's a weekend car job - DCTs are perfect for a daily. I'd want above 300bhp, space for my bikes, something that looks sporty and handles well, has CarPlay and everything but is also not covered in screens and touch sensitive crap (I'm old at heart). The new S5 Avant and M340i models appeal, but they're the thick end of £60k+. Sticking to the brands we know and love... ummmm... maybe I could get on with the new Octavia vRS or Cupra Leon ST (until they ditch them in a year or two). All the hatchbacks are smaller than they used to be on the inside, whilst being bigger on the outside. My dad's 2024 118i has a joke for a boot compared to the 2011 A3 Sportback it replaced (and, btw, is 5 inches longer than an old 2001 328i Touring we used to have). Meanwhile, the 2022 Ibiza FR wasn't much smaller than the A3. Since when did the Polo and Mini Cooper stop being small cars? Who needs a BMW X7 - it's like driving a Chieftain tank! Since when did a hot hatch have 255 section tyres 350bhp and weigh 1600kg? No wonder the BMW XM has 740bhp - it needs it to move 2,800kg! The new 3 series is as big as an old 5 series was, and they're unbelievably expensive if you want any kit on them. Hell, top VW Touareg models, as nice and 350bhp-Q7-leather-esque as they are, go for upwards of £90,000... for a Volkswagen! I agree with whoever said similar above - if everyone had reasonably sized cars and halogen headlights, nobody would feel the need to drive around in crossovers and SUVs (that, btw, are no bigger inside than the estate/hatchbacks they're based on) with collapsed suns blinding you from the bonnet. Stuff like Matrix systems are unbelievably clever, useful and great for safety, but until everyone has them, it isn't going to work. Everything currently on the market is, in my opinion, so overpriced for what it is, and a shadow of how things used to be - in terms of quality, value, practicality, user-friendliness and general usability. All of the new cars I've driven have just not been as good as the previous versions of them I've owned/driven - be it a Golf, a Leon, an A6, a Defender 110 or a 718 GT4. Brands such as BMW M Division, Porsche and others are still keeping the idea of a performance car alive, but I fear they are running out of time. Rant over. I appreciate I've made a multitude of sweeping statements flooded with hyperboles and personal opinion, but you get my drift.

They don't want people fiddling around with the cars anymore - locked gateways, SFD1 and then SFD2 have made that very clear. Why? Because it means they can make more money doing the jobs themselves, or selling places expensive tools. It's the exact same principle across the board with almost everything these days. My working on cars knowledge is reasonably good, but ultimately I'm not qualified to do anything. I am however a qualified bike mechanic, and where thirty years ago you could build a bike with a few spanners and a screwdriver, you now need a host of tools not a million miles away from a vehicle mechanic. Why? Same thing - manufacturers want to sell specific tools, service kits and software only they sell. If they can't make money selling you a suspension fork, you best believe they'll make money on seal kits and tooling. OBD11 is very good for basic stuff and is more than adequate enough for most consumers/hobbyists. Anything more than that you'd want VCDS, except that VCDS isn't much good with new stuff. The alternative is what... ODIS???

The Gemini wheels on my Octavia have been refurbed badly and they won’t last the winter. A quality diamond cut job is going to be around £600 all in. I’m considering ditching them and putting on some Revo RF0. They’re a beautiful wheel, with VAG CB (they even use the OE bolts). My question is, should I stick with 18” or go up to 19”? Of course the vRS came with either 18” Gemini or 19” Xtreme, so either will work. As far as I can tell, the 19” wheels will - Look better (subjectively) Cost more Cost more in tyres Be heavier (8.85kg vs 10kg) Offer a worse ride I’m having a hard time seeing why I’d go for the 19” over the 18”. They’re both 8J, so I wouldn’t be looking at more than 235 in either case. I’m not overly fussed about the price, but it is a consideration - I know 235/35R19 is an expensive size. Clearance for a BBK isn’t really relevant, although I can happily live with worse ride and more weight (still lighter than OE). Any thoughts appreciated.

Yes. I think they're the style you can get from Progressive Parts, or your favourite discount Chinese retailer. Do they have any E markings on them?

A 235 tyre is generally not paired with a 7J wheel. A 7" rim will do from 195 to 225, with the ideal widths being 205 and 215. To run a 235 tyre, you need a minimum of a 7.5J, with 8/8.5J being better suited. Yes, but I'm not sure what the score is with this... A quick search showed most of the 235s on 7J rims were Transporters, so maybe there is a difference there? Either way, VW normally do the lower end of tyre sizes (E.G. a 7.5J with 225).

Sorry - yours is a FL. I've no idea why I put PFL. PFL models were 2013 to 2017 and FL models were from 2017 to 2020. There are some overlaps (2017 had both 3 and 3.5, and 2020 had 3.5 and 4). The easiest way to tell is the split headlights - although you've got a 245 which were only the 3.5 and 4. Speaking of 245, don't forget the DSG and VAQ (differential) servicing! DSG interval is officially 80k, but most do it at 40k depending on age/use. The differential is officially 30k, but the Mk4 onwards are 20k, so many choose to do it at 20k, or even every year.

This^ If you treat it as an estimation device, you’ll be in better stead. My Octavia is similar.

Most dealers will probably entertain the idea, although they get enough returns through leasing. Something like your 2024 vRS would probably go down a treat, as they’re always looking for cars like that - that’s the same condition I got mine. I’d be tempted to look toward Meadens in Brockenhurst/Bournemouth though - I wasn’t very impressed with Richmond. It may also be worth looking at some better regarded performance used dealers - they tend to be nice to deal with. Evolve come to mind.

If you look at the fuse tap, there will be a 'tail' - the wire coming off of it. This should be pointing down, so that the curent for the original thing goes through the original fuse, and the current for the dash cam goes through the piggyback fuse. If the tail is going up, then both the original thing and dash cam are going through the same fuse. That said, the 12V lighter is a 20A fuse - that shouldn't be tripping with a measly dash cam draw.

PFL. Exact same as mine, visually, except for the black spolier - always weird seeing 'your' car with a different plate. You'll need replacement door control modules as not all of them support power folding mirrors. The wiring you’ll need will come with the replacement mirrors, and plugs into the door control modules. if you need any help with coding, @East_Yorkshire_Retrofits can help, as can Andy from Yorkshire VWAG Retrofits and Solutions.

Yes, please don't do this. Every time I'm blinded by a 2009 Uber Prius with AliExpress LED headlights, I wish people cared about the laws and leglislation.

I can't claim credit for that - it was all @Paws4Thot "I hired a car without it and wandered all over the place as was so used to it keeping me in lane I forgot and had to concentrate a lot more" - you forgot you had to concentrate to keep two tons of metal going in a straight line at 70mph. Gotcha. I can see now why you were upset at the edited version. Also FYI, maybe check images before uplaoding them to the internet? Mike Ehrmantraut from Breaking Bad seems to be in some of your infotainment photos.

ACC will maintain the speed to around 5-8%. I use it a lot - doing 30mph it will go as low as 28ish before accelerating properly and go as high as 32ish before braking properly. Normal/dumb cruise will only control the minimum. At higher speeds it does a good job of the maximum (engine braking, wind resistance, etc) but is a bit hit and miss. Obviously with ACC you can set follow distances, as well as how fast it acclerates, etc.

Right -

VCDS won't be any good, Autel/OBD11 might not be able to do the dataset, so it might be a job for ODIS/GEKO? I do see now it's a 2022 so not SFD 2 -not sure why I had in my head it was a 2024

A) I was on about OE not OEM - with import fees. B) If they need coding and the dealer won't do it, that'll be a job for ODIS, which will probably be £1250+ with postage and import to Mauritius. A simple DCC controller (like APR) can be over £1000. Stuff like this is a lot more expensive for those outside of Europe/US/etc

THAT made it into a multi-storey?

How does the Lane Assist work? It uses the same camera as TSR. Side note - I turned my TSR off. It works with the ACC and when it tried to brake me from 70mph to 30mph going past some services, that was it for me.

A dealer near me wouldn't even install power fold mirrors as it 'wasn't a Skoda approved repair'. Not sure if they were telling the truth, or just couldn't be arsed. Anything is possible, with the right amount of money. All joking aside, to fit DCC you're probably better off selling the car and getting one with DCC - I can't imagine it will be any less than thousands of dollars, and it's not like (I assume) you have a stream of breakers, etc.

+1. OBD11 is very good if you don't want/need VCDS.

Oh that's good, nice and non-committal 🤣 I only use lane assist when I'm on the motorway - I don't always use it, but I do most of the time for long journeys. It does mess up now and again (when three lanes become two, etc) but most of the time I find it a helpful feature. I admit, I use it mainly to change/clean my sunglasses/glasses and know that in the few seconds I maybe can't see the best, the car isn't going to crash (ACC is on too). Mine isn't the Travel Assist thingy, so if I let it steer for me, it sort of bounces from left to right lines until I get fed up with it. It's a nice safety feature for those lapses in concentration, but like with assisted braking, it should not be relied upon. If you're constantly triggering it, then you need to stop for a coffee. The same goes for touching the wheel lightly and letting it steer for you - simple Lane Assist is not good enough for this. If you want autonomy, buy a Tesla. These are ADAS systems for safety, not autonomous driving. ACC, Travel Assist, etc, are totally different. Would you rely completely on BSA (Blind Spot Assist), or do you still check? I know I do. Dumb cruise can, ACC doesn't. Driving with ACC is so much easier - means I can look out at signs, other idiots, etc. I still hover over the brake and do stuff myself sometimes, but I trust it.

@ClydeJones there you go. It looks to be the same connectors to me. I'd pick up an eBay/breaker example for £50, confirm it fits and then either carry on, or buy a new one if you really want. BTW - will you be replacing the shifter extensions? The only ones I found to be any good are the Lego Motorsport billet ones. They were damn expensive and too big for my taste, so I sent them back. Still looking for some - would love the Audi RS style ones.