OccyVRS

Yes, it is a bit confusing. As a rule of thumb, glazing occurs when the pad material is pushed beyond it's thermal limits - for example, heavy use on track. Glazing can also occur when the brakes are dragged (or driven with very softly) - this is partly due to the constant friction causing gradual but continual heat build up, but also because the surface of the pad naturally becomes hard and glassy due to oxidisation, exposure to moisture and heat. When braking with force, this glassy layer is removed by friction with the disc (hence why you never see glazed pads on grooved discs), but with slow, gentle braking, it isn't worn away. Hence why, like I said, if the glazing is due to lack of use, you can re-face the pad, whereas if it's cooked, then bin them. Glazed discs/rotors are a bit different, and occur when the glassy/hard surface of the pad sort of polishes the metal surface. I'm a keen mountain biker, and poor braking is 99% of the time due to organic pad compound, which has melted and glazed (due to a lower heat tolerance). I've run sintered/metallic pads for years now, and while they do make a bit of noise, work like a charm. I'd personally only resort to heavy braking for bedding brakes in - any glazing and I prefer the bench. That said, any glazing and I generally replace the pads anyway, so it's less important. I use Ferodo DS2500 pads on the front, and stock OE VW pads on the rear. The Ferodo have a little less bite than OE, but can take a fair bit more heat. If set up correctly (somehow mine are, pure luck) they can be pretty damn quiet on the road, and take some beating on the track. Brake pads are a tricky thing to balance. You can have plain discs and eco pads, which will last a while, produce no dust or noise, but won't brake all that well, or you can go for some metallic track pads with grooved discs that will always bite hard and stop you dead, but will also eat pads and discs like they're going out of fashion.

Very different then - I helped a neighbour do the same on an Mk4 Octavia last week. His issue wasn’t the voltage, but rather that the mirror connection was only live with the ignition on. Have you tried finding/looking in the workshop manual? I remember using it to find a grounding point when I did a dashcam in my first car years ago.

Usually the dashboard mounting bolts (underneath the end cover) are suitable. I've also never fitted one in a RHD VAG car that doesn't have a useable bolt holding the dash together behind the glovebox.

1.8 Toresen LSD hardtop - nice!

AFAIK GPF regens are (unlike lower temp DPF) passive. From memory, GPF's only regen at high temperature, so surely this wouldn't affect the idle on startup? My vRS does it's regen by holding a lower gear for a bit (usually after I've put my foot down). My other half has a 1.0 DSG Ibiza (same engine as the Fabia, I think) and I don't think either of us has ever noticed it regen. Generally, you'll start with an idle speed of 1200-1300rpm, before it drops to 900ish. Has the car been into Skoda at all? I know there was a software issue with a higher idle being used (at cold start) to help with the kangarooing issue. I'd also take a visit underneath the steering wheel to the OBD port and see what the car is saying - could be PCV/O2 sensor/vacuum leak/etc, some of which might not show up on the dash, as the engine might not think anything is wrong. What is the MPG like @Sensayuma? If you have an issue that is causing a high idle (beyond GPF, etc) then it would likely also result in lower efficency.

I agree with @J.R. regarding the vacuum lines - if it was the servo itself, I think you'd know about it. From memory the weight difference between 312mm and 340mm is just over 2kg per side, without pads or calipers included. A 288mm disc is about 1kg lighter than a 312mm, so you're adding around 3.5kg of rotational unsprung mass each side - that's a lot - about 50% the weight of a 17" wheel. You'll also find a hefty weight penalty at the rear, going from solid to vented. Reagarding the 80mph emergency stops - a far easier thing to do is to just re-face the pads (and chamfer the edges too). Of course, this only works if you've glazed the pads through lack of 'proper' use, rather than cooking them. I've never really seen this on OE pads though - I did it on some Yellowstuffs, but that's a different thing altogether. By the sounds of it @TruckbusUK OP just has regular replacement Brembo discs and pads - aside from being a terrible combo (IME) they're just standard pads. I run DS2500s at the front, and aside from being a bit dustier than standard pads, they work very well on the road. FYI, Greenstuff/Redstuff are road use only - you'll cook them on a track! I would be interested to know though if they are Brembo Brembo, or ECP Brembo. Of course, if they are some sort of fast road pad, then not only is that problem solved, but sounds like OP needs to find a new garage! Either way, this is all inmaterial - you do not need to be thinking about upgrading brake size/compound/etc in a car with 100bhp, unless you are modifying it (with an engine swap) to be a track toy. For the benefit of thoe coming across this in nine years time after a "288mm to 340mm" google search - I know OP said that 17" wheels will clear 340mm brakes, but from what I've seen, it will be very close (the sort of close that the wheel weights could contact the caliper, which is daft). They'll need to be quite a nice offset to give some space between the inner barrel and caliper, the only ones that Skoda makes are the "Crystal", which AFAIK didn't come on Yeti's. Therefore, you'll be needing new wheels, tyres (if doing the smart thing and going up to 18"), discs, calipers, carriers, shields, sensors, hubs, master cylinder (the standard Yeti one will not be up to it) and a fair bit of time - all of which to ruin the ride, balance and performance (especially with a rigid rear end), without adding any tangible benefit. I'm also reasonably sure the ABS pump would have a fit, and that you wouldn't be able to make the ABS system understand you've gone for 312mm discs, let alone 340mm. Certainly, this seems to be a similar thing to those intelligent people that paint their drum brakes red, or buy fake caliper covers. This topic has been brought up numerous times - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/492764-bigger-brakes-for-14-140hp/ https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/brake-upgrade-for-1-4-tsi.339282/ https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/swapping-golf-r-brakes-to-base-golf.346027/ The standard braking system is perfectly adequate for a fully loaded Yeti, in wet conditions, with a completely worn-out system and tyres, on a poor road surface. It has to be, otherwise VW wouldn't be allowed to sell it! @Joff-Monty-Yeti TLDR - you are correct. Please post back here once you've had a look, and go from there. It's nice when threads have a solution to them. As has been said, you've got an issue somewhere. I drove around on pads that were absolutely glazed to sh** for a week (thank you, Thruxton), and while it wasn't the quietest or smoothest experience, I had no issues with stopping.

If you can’t get the ABS to cycle you don’t need larger discs - you need to get the system repaired. If it’s not air in the system or contamination then next best guess is the servo. FYI - increased pad/disc surface area won’t make you stop any faster. They might give you a bit more bite, but going from 288mm to 312mm is pointless, and 340mm won’t be possible. As said before, all you’d be gaining is heat resistance - not an issue in a Yeti. Certainly, I wouldn’t be driving it all that far until you have it sorted.

Indeed - I almost put 'apologies for the double post' I wasn't sure if people without an Octavia would look there!

Very true. I've always used genuine, but I've also never had such a vast price gulf in-between two things! The guy explained to me that they remove the VAQ pump and do the screen filter properly, and that sold it to me. The other place's bread and butter are Forged RS6s, and while I'm sure they'll do a good job, I know how I'd feel if I was used to twin turbo Gallardo's and one day a Skoda turned up

One question - the place I've found to do the job suggested using Millers Oil (about £100 for the service kit) rather than OE VW (about £280). They'll use VW very happily however. The car runs out of warranty in May, so that's not a concern either. Thoughts?

One question - the place I've found to do the job suggested using Millers Oil (about £100 for the service kit) rather than OE VW (about £280). They'll use VW very happily however. The car runs out of warranty in May, so that's not a concern either. Thoughts?

Without wishing to sound like an angry person on a forum - as three of us have asked, what exactly is wrong with the braking? 'Poor performance' can mean lots of things! As for the causes - an ungreased caliper slide won't case poor performance, it'll just make it a tiny bit worse. If it's had a bleed and fresh fluid, it could still be an issue with the lines, bad booster/servo unit, bad master/slave cylinder, etc. FYI - Brembo doesn't mean much these days. Most of the time it's knock-off stuff from ECP. Even if you get genuine, their performance isn't brilliant. I had genuine discs and pads on a previous car, and while the performance wasn't that bad, the pads glazed and squealed like something else.

I suppose in time they will become like BYD and the others. They will all seriously undercut the UK market. The only drawback to all of them is the longevity (with regards to servicing too), but then again is that really any different to BMW or any of the more established brands now?

Not a chance that it'll fit - as Dave says, a 235/35R19 is significantly larger than the 125/70R18 it was designed for. I wouldn't bother lugging around a full size 19" wheel. That said, I'm still needing to pick up a spare for mine!

I'll see if he needs them. The dealer also did the plugs at POS. I can't check if the diff was really done, but the part numbers on the plugs should confirm. The annual service is due, so will get all that done, along with air filter. I want the coolant changed too, but Skoda would only quote me for a full flush. I'll get whatever Indie I choose to do it. Reminds me, I need to order my special charcoal cabin filter again - not sure if it was placebo or not, but it definitely didn't smell as diesel fume-y as normal! Otherwise we're all good, I think - tyres, brakes and battery were fresh in September. CarPlay still fu**s up constantly, but after seeing Skoda twice, I've just accepted it.

Completely agree, but what happens when you need to get your Xiaomi SU7 serviced :(

My father is looking to get a new car. Aside from a 220i Coupe (G42), I'm struggling to suggest anything. He is a BMW man at heart, but the new 1 Series looks like a Kia (and only comes in 130bhp or 260bhp), and nobody is paying £45,000 for a new 320i. Then there are the options - this is not just a thing for BMW (I've also seen it on VAG cars) - but how on earth can they justify a £30,000 car in 2025 without heated wing mirrors or lumbar support! My 2011 A3 had both, and cost £3,500. Yes, there are the options of Cupra, Skoda, etc, but nobody is paying £32,000 for a budget 1.5 Golf. Speaking of VW - how can they have an average starting price of £42,000 for a Golf GTE?! Have a look here if you want a laugh - it doesn't matter if it's an Audi Q7 - it's a Volkswagen with a near £90,000 price tag. Just take a look at the SF90 market crash. If the people that own those cars can't get rid of them fast enough now the battery change is due, what chance does anyone have with a PHEV... just take a look at the 330e market! Everything is overpriced, cheaply made and overpriced. After buying my vRS I had the pleasure of being in several courtesy cars - a 1.5 Golf, a 1.0 Leon and 1.0 Arona. All three were somehow worse than the last - cheaply made, uninspiring/vague to drive and all costing more than my vRS. I love my cars - I always have. As @Aspman said though, I'm done with them for the moment. Looking on Autotrader is like looking on the menu at an Icelandic restaurant. That's if you can even find the cash price, over finance.

Yes, the diff will also get done. It was apparently done by the dealer at POS, but I don't trust them as far as I can throw them. Even if it was done, I doubt they blew out the gauze properly, etc. I drive the car quite hard (but never on a track, Skoda UK Warranty Team!). My usual VAG Indie are being a bit difficult about this, so I'm looking to go elsewhere. I was almost sold on my local main dealer (who have been really good) but then I remembered how many times I've been scr**ed over by a main dealer, and decided against it. The car is at 39k and the annual service isn't due until the summer, so I've got a month or two to do my research and find a good place. First job is to fix what the gritter did to the front end this morning!

Mine is actually only on 40k (the interval for the DQ381 is 80k) but I'm not convinced by this, and would rather get it done now for peace of mind. The dealer I bought it from are quite untrustworthy, so even though they claim the diff was done at POS, I'd rather have it redone and know that the gauze was blown out properly, etc.

You will also find that even removing all of the resonators, in a post-2019 GPF model, will make little difference to the 'enjoyable' sound of the engine. Rather, it will just increase interior NVH. Generally speaking, with GPF models, you either deal with the stock sound, or take a visit to Milltek/Scorpion/Remus/etc

Which, again, is having unrealistic expectations of a budget compact crossover. Bottom line is the standard braking system is completely adequate. It will cycle the ABS more than happily, and provide more than enough heat resistance for anything you can reasonably expect to do in a Yeti. Swapping out the pads comes with issues too - increased noise, dust and, depending on what you go for, a possible degradation of braking performance from cold.

I would suggest you take a look at your current brakes first. What do you mean by 'barely adequate'? Do they not cycle the ABS? Talking about 340mm discs is pointless - even if you could fit them (the appropriate calipers will fit only on very specific 17s with a healthy offset) you wouldn't be able to use more than 50% of the braking power before cycling the ABS. That is, of course, not mentioning the fact you'd need to tell the ABS system about the extra (and I suspect uncodable) sizing. You'd also have issues with the master cylinder, in addition to the huge increase in unsprung weight and the fact I highly doubt you'd be able to physically fit calipers that large - you'll need new carriers and shields at a minimum. The only reason for going to brakes that large is for better heat resistance during braking, and if this is the case, you have the wrong car. My previous car had 180bhp and with some upgraded pads I did several track days with no issue (288/253mm). I currently have a 340/310mm setup, but I'm also running over triple the power of a 1.2 Yeti. I've heard of people upping their 312mm discs to 340mm (e.g. older vRS TDI's) but I've never heard of anyone attempting to go from 288mm to 340mm. The limiting factor of braking in any car are the tyres. I would suggest putting some PS5s on the front and reporting back, but I doubt they even make them in the size you want. You have something wrong with your brakes!

Yes - all of the lights that came up from my almost-dead battery cleared by themselves. The same wasn't true for some of the error codes, obviously, but there was nothing on the dash. It depends how old your battery is, etc. If it's already fairly old then leaving it for the time you did might have pushed it over the edge. I had mine on charge for a good 12 hours, but it was past saving and still threw up some pretty lights when starting. YMMV.

Reviving an old thread - I'm looking to get a Rieger rear diffuser for my 245 hatch. How have yours all fared?

Looking for a bit of advice and guidance. I'm looking to get the DQ381 box in my vRS serviced. I've got three quotes - £420 and £340 from two VAG specalists, and £385 from Skoda. This is for the oil, and the filter (I have double checked with Skoda regarding the filter). I'm keen to go with Skoda, as the cheaper Indie I'm not overly keen on anymore, and the more expensive place is unknown to me. Is there anything that I need to check/watch out for? I've seen lots of posts on forums (Briskoda, SEATCUPRA, VWVortex, etc) about the job not being done properly. Aside from the filter not being replaced, what does this mean? I've seen on one post that the dealer only drained the oil from the main sump, rather than the mechatronic too, however I'm a bit unsure as to how I'm supposed to even check this! I would normally go with an Indie, but as Skoda are in the middle price wise, going to the dealer would be nice. I need to get the diff done, as well as some other service bits, and weirdly Skoda are actually coming in £50 below the Indie. I know dealers often don't do a "proper" job, but as long as the diff oil is changed, gauze blown out, and the gearbox is fully drained and redone, with a fresh filter, what else is there? I have asked them if they're willing to provide proof that the filter/gauze/full drain is done. I thought I'd get a better answer on here than on the FB groups!