OccyVRS

If you're downsizing, I would take a look at a Leon FR. You can get a nice DSG 1.8 with 180ish bhp. Not quite a vRS but...

They generally charge about £10-15 for postage. The normal plugs are about £15-20, whilst the sensor one is near £200. You'll want genuine as a friend of mine tried NGK with no luck. From memory, I thought the PSG was on cylinder 3? Can't hurt to check - it'll have some wires on it.

Yep, that was rod knock. In the words of Mat Armstrong - engine very bad. The assumption should always be that you can drive unless something comes up on the dash. If something does, stop immediately - especially if it's temperature or oil related. While unlikely, a decent blown turbo/oil leak does make quite a big fire risk. The EA888.3 is a very reliable engine. It can have therm/pump/PCV issues, as well as a pretty high oil consumption, but generally it's a very good engine. Did Skoda say what happended? From what you've said, it sounds like oil starvation (clogged filter, blocked pickup, lack of regular changes), pump failure, PCV issues or the turbo shi***** itself. Value wise - £4000-5000? Depends if you'll break it or sell it as is.

But yet my car can remember individual mirror settings per key and still can't offer me mirror dip...

You have to have power fold mirrors and have the switch on the left mirror. When it's dipped, the adjustments you make are specific to that mirror, and only when it is dipped. It has a memory. I used to leave my Leon in L all the time. Shame my Octavia doesn't have it - it's a nice feature!

Do you have power mirrors? Is the miror knob in the L position?

SkodaParts.com are really good - I use them frequently.

Thank you @dieselV6, I'll have a look at what I can do on OBD11 (I remember seeing humidity something), otherwise I'll drop my mate with VCDS a visit. I think my car will be alright as I have several silica bags stashed in the rear door pockets/boot/glove box/spare wheel well/under seats, but I do try and keep ti as dry as I can. I do a lot of mountain biking, so having wet muddy gear in the car for the drive home is never nice... The increase in fuel consumption would concern me, but a) this time of year the consumption is crap driving cold around town and b) when the car does get warm on longer journeys, I have A/C on anyway. I tink it's a decent trade off. As the Octavia's compressor is always on anyway, it shouldn't really give me any issues re wear, should it? I really must give Occy a proper run soon - I try my best to take it one junction on the motorway and put my foot down once its warm, but that's not enough. All this constant cold town driving can't be good for the engine.

It's the same principle as a house. You can buy a tired-looking 1930s build that will still be standing long after Venice is underwater, compared to a shiny new build that will be flat before the next century. Ultimately, any car is a money pit, one way or another! The Autocheck thing sounds interesting - will they do private sales too? Regular servicing is important for any cars. With the VAG belt engines, getting the belt done timely is one of the more important things to do, but they require no more servicing than any other car. I will say though, that for £7500 equivalent, you can get a lot lower than 120k miles. Most of what I'm seeing on sites for that money is 2014-2016 with 65-80k on it.

The issue with that is it's sort of like calling up Apple and asking them about issues with the iPhone 13 and issues with used ones on eBay. a) They aren't going to tell you the bad things about their cars (forums, FB groups, Reddit, etc are far better for this). To be fair, the mk3 Octavia/Mk3 Leon/Mk7 Golf/8V A3 platform is generally a really reliable and popular choice. It has problems, but every car has problems. There is nothing significant like the Ford Ecoboom problem on these cars. b) They also can't really comment or help with used advice (bar telling you to buy from them), as they've no idea what has happened to the car since it left their factory. They would likely be happy to do a top down inspection on the car after purchase (here in the UK a company called the AA will, for a fee, do an inspection on any car before you buy it. I would definitely suggest looking into something similar). Aside from checking it has FSH and the timing belt has been done, there isn't much more you can do without physically taking a look. There is no 'good' used car. Most are good, however some are not. If you don't know much about cars, ultimately you can only avoid against this risk by going approved used.

@Warrior193 @dieselV6 Regarding sequenced keys/codes - do either of you know if using a spare key 'brings it up to speed' with the car/rx? I.E. in theory, using the spare key(s) to unlock and lock the car every few months should keep things working?

Do you have any more info on this? Sounds like something I'd want to do!

@jazzyjeff did you ever try the other key (e.g. when you sold it)? I've never had an issue with keys before, but I got caught out with the whole 'due to ODIS a normal garage can't code in your new battery, Sir' and didn't want to make a similar mistake again!

Yes, I took offence at that too, but didn't want to spoil his illusion of a blossoming friendship. He must have a hard time reading the room over an internet forum. @J.R. I agree, I just don't like not saying anything when people are so unreasonably rude. It's probably best not to engage, but then again, I was born on this side of the millenia! TLDR - @RallySimon I wish you a speedy recovery. Pop a charger on the battery at some point, and you should be absolutely fine!

I'm sure you're able to see. Equally, if it's boring you, then why reply to the thread? It brings all of us great joy to hear that you've not had an issue since 1988 - you must be very special and know exactly what you're doing! It's very impressive to read that you, with your ten different cars, have all managed to beat the simple physics of electrons and ions. Every other person on this thread has said, correctly, that it would likely be best to put a charger on the OP's battery for a little bit. You then comment, dripping with self-righteousness, about how 'any half decent battery' will be fine and that it is 'OP's money', failing to read that the OP already has a battery charger. Doh! You then argued that a modern EFB or AGM battery can't be compared to an old lead acid one. You're correct - it can't. However, the parasitic draw of a modern car also can't be compared to an Austin Allegro. Fear not though, you are quick to bring rocket science to the party - failing once again to understand that developments in battery technology haven't beaten physics. It is true that batteries are more advanced now, however modern cars are significantly more advanced. Upon being met with this abundance of scientific reality, you then tell someone to 'wind their neck in', for no obvious reason? As @J.R. said - "Your vehicle restarting after a 4 day shift pattern does not mean you can say that the OP is taking completely unnecessary precautions when his vehicle will be standing unused for 4 months!". I don't think any of us understand why some simple, best practice advice, has to turn into a competition over 'in my vast experience I've NEVER had a problem, blah, blah, blah'. We are simply suggesting that the OP should use his charger for a bit before starting, as it will likely mitigate any risk of over straining the battery. Even if you're right and we are all wrong, what's the OP lost? Ten minutes of his time and about 5p of electricity. I'm quite new to the forum and must say, for someone that is so 'carefree', the history of your crushingly righteous comments on posts seems quite antagonistic and unpleasant.

They’re probably too scared to give any issues in case you start talking. Nobody is saying not having issues is impossible - but I don’t know anyone that hasn’t had at least one flat battery at SOME point. Not to mention, for the third time, that you likely haven’t left your car for four months in winter without starting it. Please, don’t just take it from me - take the hint from the other members’ reactions to your posts… Your opinion is your opinion, whatever it may be, but there is no need for the sarcasm or the attacking of other members. In this instance, you are offering absolutely nothing, except confusion for the OP and others to sift through. It’s like you’re commenting on a post on Enyaq charging issues, and you come along commenting that you’ve never had a problem on your numerous ICE cars. Your famed ‘lived experience’ is completely irrelevant - you just can’t see it.

With some impartiality, you could take your own advice... You comment on a post specifically about an abnormal occurance, and your advice is to be normal - really great, valued and considered input. As JR says, the OP has left the car for autumn and half of winter without starting it. While I think it will start, I personally would charge it a bit first as I suspect it will have a low SoC. I wouldn't be suprised if it doesn't. Most dealerships trickle charge their cars and they are quite literally brand new. Most supercars trickle charge and their batteries are quite modern.

Yes, of course. My point was I didn't expect that to kill the battery - strain/drain it yes, but not kill it. Clearly, it shows the sheer amount of draw that all these modules draw from the battery. I was very careful to make sure the digi dash was off, etc, but the battery didn't like it either way.

Just to add to this in case others see. The sales team at Caffyns Skoda are top tier - avoid the service lot like the plague. If it's outside of warranty, I'd find a good Indie and never look back. I am only 6 months into my warranty, but wouldn't go to the dealer if you paid me.

Better hope you never have to - the dealer will turn you away. Even if the map/chip is removed, they'll be able to see. You can even see stuff like how many times the LC programme has been activated, etc. Before you say it's only the engine - it's not. I've known people turned away for platform/exhaust/gearbox issues, because of increased power equalling increased strain/heat/blah blah. Regarding the locked ECU/TCU there is some info here. You should be able to find someone if places like this lot can do it - I'd recommend pinging some emails over to reputable places in the UK, and getting on some more specific engine forums/groups.

Hopefully no tourists in motorhomes see this thread... it can't get much worse up there.

Check the buckle, as someone else suggested. My seats don't lay as flat as other cars, but they definitely sit flatter than that - full Alcantara vRS.

One interesting point nobody has mentioned (I think) is that the compressor chucks out nice dry air. During the summer, when it's hot, I'll run the a/c for obvious reasons (usually just on screen and vents at about 19°). In spring and autumn I usually have it at 18/19° but with a/c off. Of course, in winter, it doesn't make sense to have a/c on, but I always have it on and set at 20°. When the air is damp, and the interior has wet feet or whatever, having the a/c on prevents any damp. Another thing is to get a nice air freshener jar thing, and some silica moisture absorbing bags. These, combined with the a/c, mean the car stays fresh and dry all year round. I hate damp in cars.

Does anyone know anything about key unlock/lock synchronisations? When I was at the stealer a few months ago, I overhead one of the service advisors on the phone telling someone that if one key is used say 1000 times, then the spare on 40 uses can fall out of sync - something to do with codes. I'd never heard of this before, but wondered if anyone else might know? I have three keys (my main, a spare and then one that lives in the safe), with the main being used several times a day, the spare every month or so and then never the third one. I can't really be bothered to swap keys (I have a special vRS end tip on my main!) but will do if it means not having to deal with any key issues.

I believe (for that period) everything below the 1.8TSI was a belt. Pre-2011 I think most stuff had a chain (our 1.4 TFSI certainly does). I think the 105ps 1.2 was a 4 cylinder EA211 variation, same as the 1.4's, which were all belts.