OccyVRS

Bit of paper behind the wheel, or the mrs' tape measure and you should have it figured out. For the 1.5 I am 99% sure it'll be 288/253. IIRC for VAG in that era it only went up to 312/272 for >180ps or 4x4.

1KS doesn't necessarily relate to a Mk2 AFAIK. For your car I think you can have either 1KJ, 1KD or 1KS. That said, I'd personally scrap all that, and get the tape measure out in the morning. You should have either 253x10mm or 272x10mm (paired with either 288mm or 312mm fronts). For the 1.5 I think it should be the former. Once you've figured that out, discs/pads are fairly easy, along with the appropriate caliper part no.

It should be 1KD. Your PR sticker in the boot might have the rear brake info on it, but if not you can get in touch with some people on here to get the full build sheet for your car.

Take a look at doing the dashcam yourself or, at the very least, avoid Halfords. I'm quite well practised now (doing one on an Ibiza took me about 25 minutes over the weekend) but the first one I did didn't take more than a few hours. At least you know it's a proper job. That's what the roof rails are for! That said, I still fit two full sus mountain bikes into the back of my vRS hatch - part of me wishes I'd gone for the estate 😂

Different take on this - manufacturers have approval on type vehicles for a whole host of tyre sizes (E.G. a vRS can have 225/40R18 or 225/35R19). I would think that if you are putting a tyre size on not approved, then you may have some issues re insurance, as this isn't a "non-standard alloy wheel" job. That aside, as @Carlston says, going from 55 to 65 is far too large - starting in first gear on a hill will be like starting in second, and if you hit a big pothole you could run into some issues. Going to a narrower rim (or indeed a wider rim for a larger sidewall) might be the answer, as could dropping down a wheel size.

When did you buy the car? Was it a new, or used purchase? I've had some experience with VAG warranty. On one hand it's not worth the paper it's written on, but on the other hand I'm only in my vRS as a result of a warranty on my previous car.

You will never get a car aligned perfectly! This is speaking from experience with a custom built R32 GT-R - we tried everything. Not to mention of course, that you then go over a speed bump and it's thrown off again. You might have damaged steering components, or you might have a front subframe that's shifted slightly. I had to redo mine after I bought the car. A buckled wheel won't cause alignment issues. The alignment machines are only as good as the operator - Hunter included. All of that being said, you have to try reasonably hard to buckle an OE VAG wheel. I would first confirm that nothing is out of whack (steering, subframe, etc) as this is most likely the case. A car will always pull to one side. Even if the road is somehow perfectly flat, something will always be a bit out. I've had my car at the limiter on a very smooth airfield, and even with fresh rubber and an alignment, it drifted to one side.

Just to check, wer're talking about you being in any driving mode other than Eco, aka there isn't any actual coasting? The grinding noise likely needs some more looking at, however it does also sound like it's partially just the nature of the gearbox. I have a DQ381 and even with a TCU tune, the car can still be very jerky if I suddenly lift off the throttle while accelerating a little in first or second. I've also experienced a bit of what you describe - at slower speeds (low end of D2), if I accelerate with a squeeze of throttle, the car can be very slow to feed the clutch in, making it a less-than-smooth experience as the revs rise.

If a car has a very restrictive exhaust system from factory, then removing this restriction can help the power output as the engine isn't having to 'push' the exhaust gasses out anymore. That said, I don't think you'll see anything significant without an ECU tune, and even then we're talking morec 3" catless downpipe than a mid res delete!

Glad you've got it sorted. Certainly a battery issue - when mine went last year, the car absolutely sha* itself and lit up everything it could. If you have an OBD reader, you'll be able to see the faults are due to insufficent voltage.

This should be a little clearer than the manual - https://www.startmycar.com/gb/skoda/octavia/info/fusebox/2014 Daft question, but if you think you pulled the wrong fuse, do you now have a spare? Generally if your car doesn't have XYZ feature, and the fuse is empty, then there won't be any terminals in there for a fuse to go into.

Also depends on if it's a GPF model or not. Pre-GPF you could do a res delete and it would do a decent job. Post-GPF cars (2019 ono) you're very limited, and it's generally best to avoid touching the factory system. You won't get any decent change from it, and you'll ruin the emissions. GPF models seem to either be silent, or a candidate for Milltek/Scorpion/Remus

Sounds like you might have heater matrix issues... if blocked the car can cook the coolant (as JR says, it'll read normal until it suddenly shoots up). Could also be the coolant temp sensor or thermostat, but with the heating being dodgy I'd put money on it.

How did you find The Phirm @travs ? I'm booked in with them next month.

No need to worry about a full flush - IIRC Skoda will charge just over a grand for that job, which really isn't needed! Sediment sounds like a result of the coolant being used as coolant - over time, rust and stuff can build up in the coolant system and cause the change in colour. I wouldn't worry about it, unless it comes out brown. Re the silica bag - it should say "mit silikat" on it if yours has the silica bag. My understanding was that G13 cars had the silica bag, whereas G12 Evo didn't? Someone here will know more. I keep meaning to check mine but keep forgetting.

Which specialist did you go and see? I have decided to make a change from my Indie regardless. The one that I've chosen (I ditched the idea of Skoda, been stung too many times) is a TVS Engineering place (The Phirm).

You’re missing my point. If the ABS cannot be cycled, then something is majorly wrong with the braking system. If an older vehicle (or Noble M600) doesn’t have ABS that’s fine, but the fact that a vehicle that does have ABS can’t operate it, that’s not fine, and suggests something is majorly wrong.

Regardless of what shows up, not being able to cycle the ABS means the car is not only unfit for the road, but also dangerous. How OP has been driving around for a year like that, is a bit of a suprise!

No, no - it sounds like those discs were glazed! I was just saying that a glazed pad occurs before (and causes) a glazed disc. If they’re both glazed then in theory re-facing the pads should work, but as you say 99% of the time, they just glaze up again, especially if the discs are nice and shiny/grooved with uneven wear. It is strange, but also serves to reinforce my point that the stock braking system is perfectly fine! People say to use cleaner, alcohol or even abrasive paper on glazed components - in my experience, unless it’s very mild, sack them off and get new ones.

Yes, it is a bit confusing. As a rule of thumb, glazing occurs when the pad material is pushed beyond it's thermal limits - for example, heavy use on track. Glazing can also occur when the brakes are dragged (or driven with very softly) - this is partly due to the constant friction causing gradual but continual heat build up, but also because the surface of the pad naturally becomes hard and glassy due to oxidisation, exposure to moisture and heat. When braking with force, this glassy layer is removed by friction with the disc (hence why you never see glazed pads on grooved discs), but with slow, gentle braking, it isn't worn away. Hence why, like I said, if the glazing is due to lack of use, you can re-face the pad, whereas if it's cooked, then bin them. Glazed discs/rotors are a bit different, and occur when the glassy/hard surface of the pad sort of polishes the metal surface. I'm a keen mountain biker, and poor braking is 99% of the time due to organic pad compound, which has melted and glazed (due to a lower heat tolerance). I've run sintered/metallic pads for years now, and while they do make a bit of noise, work like a charm. I'd personally only resort to heavy braking for bedding brakes in - any glazing and I prefer the bench. That said, any glazing and I generally replace the pads anyway, so it's less important. I use Ferodo DS2500 pads on the front, and stock OE VW pads on the rear. The Ferodo have a little less bite than OE, but can take a fair bit more heat. If set up correctly (somehow mine are, pure luck) they can be pretty damn quiet on the road, and take some beating on the track. Brake pads are a tricky thing to balance. You can have plain discs and eco pads, which will last a while, produce no dust or noise, but won't brake all that well, or you can go for some metallic track pads with grooved discs that will always bite hard and stop you dead, but will also eat pads and discs like they're going out of fashion.

Very different then - I helped a neighbour do the same on an Mk4 Octavia last week. His issue wasn’t the voltage, but rather that the mirror connection was only live with the ignition on. Have you tried finding/looking in the workshop manual? I remember using it to find a grounding point when I did a dashcam in my first car years ago.

Usually the dashboard mounting bolts (underneath the end cover) are suitable. I've also never fitted one in a RHD VAG car that doesn't have a useable bolt holding the dash together behind the glovebox.

1.8 Toresen LSD hardtop - nice!

AFAIK GPF regens are (unlike lower temp DPF) passive. From memory, GPF's only regen at high temperature, so surely this wouldn't affect the idle on startup? My vRS does it's regen by holding a lower gear for a bit (usually after I've put my foot down). My other half has a 1.0 DSG Ibiza (same engine as the Fabia, I think) and I don't think either of us has ever noticed it regen. Generally, you'll start with an idle speed of 1200-1300rpm, before it drops to 900ish. Has the car been into Skoda at all? I know there was a software issue with a higher idle being used (at cold start) to help with the kangarooing issue. I'd also take a visit underneath the steering wheel to the OBD port and see what the car is saying - could be PCV/O2 sensor/vacuum leak/etc, some of which might not show up on the dash, as the engine might not think anything is wrong. What is the MPG like @Sensayuma? If you have an issue that is causing a high idle (beyond GPF, etc) then it would likely also result in lower efficency.

I agree with @J.R. regarding the vacuum lines - if it was the servo itself, I think you'd know about it. From memory the weight difference between 312mm and 340mm is just over 2kg per side, without pads or calipers included. A 288mm disc is about 1kg lighter than a 312mm, so you're adding around 3.5kg of rotational unsprung mass each side - that's a lot - about 50% the weight of a 17" wheel. You'll also find a hefty weight penalty at the rear, going from solid to vented. Reagarding the 80mph emergency stops - a far easier thing to do is to just re-face the pads (and chamfer the edges too). Of course, this only works if you've glazed the pads through lack of 'proper' use, rather than cooking them. I've never really seen this on OE pads though - I did it on some Yellowstuffs, but that's a different thing altogether. By the sounds of it @TruckbusUK OP just has regular replacement Brembo discs and pads - aside from being a terrible combo (IME) they're just standard pads. I run DS2500s at the front, and aside from being a bit dustier than standard pads, they work very well on the road. FYI, Greenstuff/Redstuff are road use only - you'll cook them on a track! I would be interested to know though if they are Brembo Brembo, or ECP Brembo. Of course, if they are some sort of fast road pad, then not only is that problem solved, but sounds like OP needs to find a new garage! Either way, this is all inmaterial - you do not need to be thinking about upgrading brake size/compound/etc in a car with 100bhp, unless you are modifying it (with an engine swap) to be a track toy. For the benefit of thoe coming across this in nine years time after a "288mm to 340mm" google search - I know OP said that 17" wheels will clear 340mm brakes, but from what I've seen, it will be very close (the sort of close that the wheel weights could contact the caliper, which is daft). They'll need to be quite a nice offset to give some space between the inner barrel and caliper, the only ones that Skoda makes are the "Crystal", which AFAIK didn't come on Yeti's. Therefore, you'll be needing new wheels, tyres (if doing the smart thing and going up to 18"), discs, calipers, carriers, shields, sensors, hubs, master cylinder (the standard Yeti one will not be up to it) and a fair bit of time - all of which to ruin the ride, balance and performance (especially with a rigid rear end), without adding any tangible benefit. I'm also reasonably sure the ABS pump would have a fit, and that you wouldn't be able to make the ABS system understand you've gone for 312mm discs, let alone 340mm. Certainly, this seems to be a similar thing to those intelligent people that paint their drum brakes red, or buy fake caliper covers. This topic has been brought up numerous times - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/492764-bigger-brakes-for-14-140hp/ https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/brake-upgrade-for-1-4-tsi.339282/ https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/swapping-golf-r-brakes-to-base-golf.346027/ The standard braking system is perfectly adequate for a fully loaded Yeti, in wet conditions, with a completely worn-out system and tyres, on a poor road surface. It has to be, otherwise VW wouldn't be allowed to sell it! @Joff-Monty-Yeti TLDR - you are correct. Please post back here once you've had a look, and go from there. It's nice when threads have a solution to them. As has been said, you've got an issue somewhere. I drove around on pads that were absolutely glazed to sh** for a week (thank you, Thruxton), and while it wasn't the quietest or smoothest experience, I had no issues with stopping.