OccyVRS

Not necessarily. A) the pocket could have been trapped somewhere it was doing less harm and B) with the cold temperatures etc, the temp might have been within the 90 degree display range.

Then you likely have air in the system as a result of their bleed. OBD11 isn’t expensive and is a very useful tool, if you fancy doing it yourself.

Is this on cars with G12 Evo? I’ve been lied to!

Remember that you might have some fault codes that will take time to clear (if you even scan it) and just check that the one touch window thingy still works!

I’m not 100% sure on the newer hybrid models, but on every single other VAG car, the Soundaktor is on the firewall, underneath the scuttle panel. If liquid has been spilled on the shifter area, how do the two correlate??? As others have said, issues with battery charging aren’t uncommon, but are in no way related to this - that’s what fuses are for. Skoda (and everyone else) will do absolutely everything in their power to not honour the warranty - otherwise they don’t make any money. I’m not entirely sure about previous comments on whether you spilled the liquid or not (obviously this is a public forum), however regardless it is a classic tactic to blame a problem on something unrelated (often that you did). I.E. my car went to SEAT for a clunking noise, turned out to be a rock in the subframe an Indie found, but SEAT spent all day replacing the instrument cluster glass…

Haha, it's late - not sure how I misread 150 as 1.5 (I should have realised they didn't make a 1.5 in 2014)! Apparently looks like it can be either... best to measure twice order once.

Bit of paper behind the wheel, or the mrs' tape measure and you should have it figured out. For the 1.5 I am 99% sure it'll be 288/253. IIRC for VAG in that era it only went up to 312/272 for >180ps or 4x4.

1KS doesn't necessarily relate to a Mk2 AFAIK. For your car I think you can have either 1KJ, 1KD or 1KS. That said, I'd personally scrap all that, and get the tape measure out in the morning. You should have either 253x10mm or 272x10mm (paired with either 288mm or 312mm fronts). For the 1.5 I think it should be the former. Once you've figured that out, discs/pads are fairly easy, along with the appropriate caliper part no.

It should be 1KD. Your PR sticker in the boot might have the rear brake info on it, but if not you can get in touch with some people on here to get the full build sheet for your car.

Take a look at doing the dashcam yourself or, at the very least, avoid Halfords. I'm quite well practised now (doing one on an Ibiza took me about 25 minutes over the weekend) but the first one I did didn't take more than a few hours. At least you know it's a proper job. That's what the roof rails are for! That said, I still fit two full sus mountain bikes into the back of my vRS hatch - part of me wishes I'd gone for the estate 😂

Different take on this - manufacturers have approval on type vehicles for a whole host of tyre sizes (E.G. a vRS can have 225/40R18 or 225/35R19). I would think that if you are putting a tyre size on not approved, then you may have some issues re insurance, as this isn't a "non-standard alloy wheel" job. That aside, as @Carlston says, going from 55 to 65 is far too large - starting in first gear on a hill will be like starting in second, and if you hit a big pothole you could run into some issues. Going to a narrower rim (or indeed a wider rim for a larger sidewall) might be the answer, as could dropping down a wheel size.

When did you buy the car? Was it a new, or used purchase? I've had some experience with VAG warranty. On one hand it's not worth the paper it's written on, but on the other hand I'm only in my vRS as a result of a warranty on my previous car.

You will never get a car aligned perfectly! This is speaking from experience with a custom built R32 GT-R - we tried everything. Not to mention of course, that you then go over a speed bump and it's thrown off again. You might have damaged steering components, or you might have a front subframe that's shifted slightly. I had to redo mine after I bought the car. A buckled wheel won't cause alignment issues. The alignment machines are only as good as the operator - Hunter included. All of that being said, you have to try reasonably hard to buckle an OE VAG wheel. I would first confirm that nothing is out of whack (steering, subframe, etc) as this is most likely the case. A car will always pull to one side. Even if the road is somehow perfectly flat, something will always be a bit out. I've had my car at the limiter on a very smooth airfield, and even with fresh rubber and an alignment, it drifted to one side.

Just to check, wer're talking about you being in any driving mode other than Eco, aka there isn't any actual coasting? The grinding noise likely needs some more looking at, however it does also sound like it's partially just the nature of the gearbox. I have a DQ381 and even with a TCU tune, the car can still be very jerky if I suddenly lift off the throttle while accelerating a little in first or second. I've also experienced a bit of what you describe - at slower speeds (low end of D2), if I accelerate with a squeeze of throttle, the car can be very slow to feed the clutch in, making it a less-than-smooth experience as the revs rise.

If a car has a very restrictive exhaust system from factory, then removing this restriction can help the power output as the engine isn't having to 'push' the exhaust gasses out anymore. That said, I don't think you'll see anything significant without an ECU tune, and even then we're talking morec 3" catless downpipe than a mid res delete!

Glad you've got it sorted. Certainly a battery issue - when mine went last year, the car absolutely sha* itself and lit up everything it could. If you have an OBD reader, you'll be able to see the faults are due to insufficent voltage.

This should be a little clearer than the manual - https://www.startmycar.com/gb/skoda/octavia/info/fusebox/2014 Daft question, but if you think you pulled the wrong fuse, do you now have a spare? Generally if your car doesn't have XYZ feature, and the fuse is empty, then there won't be any terminals in there for a fuse to go into.

Also depends on if it's a GPF model or not. Pre-GPF you could do a res delete and it would do a decent job. Post-GPF cars (2019 ono) you're very limited, and it's generally best to avoid touching the factory system. You won't get any decent change from it, and you'll ruin the emissions. GPF models seem to either be silent, or a candidate for Milltek/Scorpion/Remus

Sounds like you might have heater matrix issues... if blocked the car can cook the coolant (as JR says, it'll read normal until it suddenly shoots up). Could also be the coolant temp sensor or thermostat, but with the heating being dodgy I'd put money on it.

How did you find The Phirm @travs ? I'm booked in with them next month.

No need to worry about a full flush - IIRC Skoda will charge just over a grand for that job, which really isn't needed! Sediment sounds like a result of the coolant being used as coolant - over time, rust and stuff can build up in the coolant system and cause the change in colour. I wouldn't worry about it, unless it comes out brown. Re the silica bag - it should say "mit silikat" on it if yours has the silica bag. My understanding was that G13 cars had the silica bag, whereas G12 Evo didn't? Someone here will know more. I keep meaning to check mine but keep forgetting.

Which specialist did you go and see? I have decided to make a change from my Indie regardless. The one that I've chosen (I ditched the idea of Skoda, been stung too many times) is a TVS Engineering place (The Phirm).

You’re missing my point. If the ABS cannot be cycled, then something is majorly wrong with the braking system. If an older vehicle (or Noble M600) doesn’t have ABS that’s fine, but the fact that a vehicle that does have ABS can’t operate it, that’s not fine, and suggests something is majorly wrong.

Regardless of what shows up, not being able to cycle the ABS means the car is not only unfit for the road, but also dangerous. How OP has been driving around for a year like that, is a bit of a suprise!

No, no - it sounds like those discs were glazed! I was just saying that a glazed pad occurs before (and causes) a glazed disc. If they’re both glazed then in theory re-facing the pads should work, but as you say 99% of the time, they just glaze up again, especially if the discs are nice and shiny/grooved with uneven wear. It is strange, but also serves to reinforce my point that the stock braking system is perfectly fine! People say to use cleaner, alcohol or even abrasive paper on glazed components - in my experience, unless it’s very mild, sack them off and get new ones.