OccyVRS

The issue with that is it's sort of like calling up Apple and asking them about issues with the iPhone 13 and issues with used ones on eBay. a) They aren't going to tell you the bad things about their cars (forums, FB groups, Reddit, etc are far better for this). To be fair, the mk3 Octavia/Mk3 Leon/Mk7 Golf/8V A3 platform is generally a really reliable and popular choice. It has problems, but every car has problems. There is nothing significant like the Ford Ecoboom problem on these cars. b) They also can't really comment or help with used advice (bar telling you to buy from them), as they've no idea what has happened to the car since it left their factory. They would likely be happy to do a top down inspection on the car after purchase (here in the UK a company called the AA will, for a fee, do an inspection on any car before you buy it. I would definitely suggest looking into something similar). Aside from checking it has FSH and the timing belt has been done, there isn't much more you can do without physically taking a look. There is no 'good' used car. Most are good, however some are not. If you don't know much about cars, ultimately you can only avoid against this risk by going approved used.

@Warrior193 @dieselV6 Regarding sequenced keys/codes - do either of you know if using a spare key 'brings it up to speed' with the car/rx? I.E. in theory, using the spare key(s) to unlock and lock the car every few months should keep things working?

Do you have any more info on this? Sounds like something I'd want to do!

@jazzyjeff did you ever try the other key (e.g. when you sold it)? I've never had an issue with keys before, but I got caught out with the whole 'due to ODIS a normal garage can't code in your new battery, Sir' and didn't want to make a similar mistake again!

Yes, I took offence at that too, but didn't want to spoil his illusion of a blossoming friendship. He must have a hard time reading the room over an internet forum. @J.R. I agree, I just don't like not saying anything when people are so unreasonably rude. It's probably best not to engage, but then again, I was born on this side of the millenia! TLDR - @RallySimon I wish you a speedy recovery. Pop a charger on the battery at some point, and you should be absolutely fine!

I'm sure you're able to see. Equally, if it's boring you, then why reply to the thread? It brings all of us great joy to hear that you've not had an issue since 1988 - you must be very special and know exactly what you're doing! It's very impressive to read that you, with your ten different cars, have all managed to beat the simple physics of electrons and ions. Every other person on this thread has said, correctly, that it would likely be best to put a charger on the OP's battery for a little bit. You then comment, dripping with self-righteousness, about how 'any half decent battery' will be fine and that it is 'OP's money', failing to read that the OP already has a battery charger. Doh! You then argued that a modern EFB or AGM battery can't be compared to an old lead acid one. You're correct - it can't. However, the parasitic draw of a modern car also can't be compared to an Austin Allegro. Fear not though, you are quick to bring rocket science to the party - failing once again to understand that developments in battery technology haven't beaten physics. It is true that batteries are more advanced now, however modern cars are significantly more advanced. Upon being met with this abundance of scientific reality, you then tell someone to 'wind their neck in', for no obvious reason? As @J.R. said - "Your vehicle restarting after a 4 day shift pattern does not mean you can say that the OP is taking completely unnecessary precautions when his vehicle will be standing unused for 4 months!". I don't think any of us understand why some simple, best practice advice, has to turn into a competition over 'in my vast experience I've NEVER had a problem, blah, blah, blah'. We are simply suggesting that the OP should use his charger for a bit before starting, as it will likely mitigate any risk of over straining the battery. Even if you're right and we are all wrong, what's the OP lost? Ten minutes of his time and about 5p of electricity. I'm quite new to the forum and must say, for someone that is so 'carefree', the history of your crushingly righteous comments on posts seems quite antagonistic and unpleasant.

They’re probably too scared to give any issues in case you start talking. Nobody is saying not having issues is impossible - but I don’t know anyone that hasn’t had at least one flat battery at SOME point. Not to mention, for the third time, that you likely haven’t left your car for four months in winter without starting it. Please, don’t just take it from me - take the hint from the other members’ reactions to your posts… Your opinion is your opinion, whatever it may be, but there is no need for the sarcasm or the attacking of other members. In this instance, you are offering absolutely nothing, except confusion for the OP and others to sift through. It’s like you’re commenting on a post on Enyaq charging issues, and you come along commenting that you’ve never had a problem on your numerous ICE cars. Your famed ‘lived experience’ is completely irrelevant - you just can’t see it.

With some impartiality, you could take your own advice... You comment on a post specifically about an abnormal occurance, and your advice is to be normal - really great, valued and considered input. As JR says, the OP has left the car for autumn and half of winter without starting it. While I think it will start, I personally would charge it a bit first as I suspect it will have a low SoC. I wouldn't be suprised if it doesn't. Most dealerships trickle charge their cars and they are quite literally brand new. Most supercars trickle charge and their batteries are quite modern.

Yes, of course. My point was I didn't expect that to kill the battery - strain/drain it yes, but not kill it. Clearly, it shows the sheer amount of draw that all these modules draw from the battery. I was very careful to make sure the digi dash was off, etc, but the battery didn't like it either way.

Just to add to this in case others see. The sales team at Caffyns Skoda are top tier - avoid the service lot like the plague. If it's outside of warranty, I'd find a good Indie and never look back. I am only 6 months into my warranty, but wouldn't go to the dealer if you paid me.

Better hope you never have to - the dealer will turn you away. Even if the map/chip is removed, they'll be able to see. You can even see stuff like how many times the LC programme has been activated, etc. Before you say it's only the engine - it's not. I've known people turned away for platform/exhaust/gearbox issues, because of increased power equalling increased strain/heat/blah blah. Regarding the locked ECU/TCU there is some info here. You should be able to find someone if places like this lot can do it - I'd recommend pinging some emails over to reputable places in the UK, and getting on some more specific engine forums/groups.

Hopefully no tourists in motorhomes see this thread... it can't get much worse up there.

Check the buckle, as someone else suggested. My seats don't lay as flat as other cars, but they definitely sit flatter than that - full Alcantara vRS.

One interesting point nobody has mentioned (I think) is that the compressor chucks out nice dry air. During the summer, when it's hot, I'll run the a/c for obvious reasons (usually just on screen and vents at about 19°). In spring and autumn I usually have it at 18/19° but with a/c off. Of course, in winter, it doesn't make sense to have a/c on, but I always have it on and set at 20°. When the air is damp, and the interior has wet feet or whatever, having the a/c on prevents any damp. Another thing is to get a nice air freshener jar thing, and some silica moisture absorbing bags. These, combined with the a/c, mean the car stays fresh and dry all year round. I hate damp in cars.

Does anyone know anything about key unlock/lock synchronisations? When I was at the stealer a few months ago, I overhead one of the service advisors on the phone telling someone that if one key is used say 1000 times, then the spare on 40 uses can fall out of sync - something to do with codes. I'd never heard of this before, but wondered if anyone else might know? I have three keys (my main, a spare and then one that lives in the safe), with the main being used several times a day, the spare every month or so and then never the third one. I can't really be bothered to swap keys (I have a special vRS end tip on my main!) but will do if it means not having to deal with any key issues.

I believe (for that period) everything below the 1.8TSI was a belt. Pre-2011 I think most stuff had a chain (our 1.4 TFSI certainly does). I think the 105ps 1.2 was a 4 cylinder EA211 variation, same as the 1.4's, which were all belts.

It's meant to have a CR2025 in it, but a CR2032 does sort of fit alright. I had a 2032 in my Leon key, however it seemed a bit tight in the slightly newer (but identical) Octavia key. @Ootohere I wonder, do you know anything about key unlock/lock synchronisations? When I was at the stealer a few months ago, I overhead one of the service advisors on the phone describing how if one key is used say 1000 times, then the spare on 40 uses can fall out of sync - something to do with codes. I'd never heard of this before, but wondered if you or anyone else might know? I have three keys (my main, a spare and then one that lives in the safe), with the main being used several times a day, the spare every month or so and then never the third one.

Second for Torque Lite/Pro. I don't use it, but have heard good things. Most fuel gauges in cars are useless (they are, after all, an approximation), however VAG group seem to be particularly bad. In my vRS, Leon and current/previous family cars (Ibiza, A/S3, A4, various Golf's) the fuel gauges have all been horrendous. In my Leon I actually went to speak to SEAT it was so bad. I'd travel 200 miles and still have a full tank, and then in the next 100 miles it fell faster than 2020 toilet roll supply chains.

I turn it off for shorter journeys as I don't like a cold engine being cranked ten times in the space of 5 minutes. Once it's warm I usually turn it on, as I like saving some petrol. Starting the car requires a lot of current draw. If the battery is not adequately charged, it is very cold, etc, then the engine stop/starting will put even more strain on the battery. Even when using it normally, the constant cranking of the engine with the rest of the car's systems being on (unlike when on the drive) still strains the battery. Imagine sitting at the lights with a/c, digi dash, lights, music, and everything else that's on. Yes, EFB and AGM batteries are better designed to combat this, but the point remains. Stick a normal battery in a start/stop car and see how long it lasts! Bottom line - yes, modern batteries are more efficient and resilient than older ones, however using start/stop does put more strain on the battery and shorten its life. Fact. Note - doesn't include the start/stop systems that stop the engine just before a cylinder fires, and then restarts the engine by firing it. I was very surprised that keeping the doors open for most of the day (interior lights turned off, etc) killed my battery. Okay, it probably wasn't the healthiest to begin with, but the car is only three/four years old. The parasitic draw in modern cars is insane, all this keyless entry stuff, etc. There's a reason it's only electric cars that have those sentry mode cameras!

Alright alright, not constructive! I think the point you are both trying to make is that whilst battery tech has advanced significantly (EFB/AGM), the amount of drain on the battery has also increased significantly. Whereas 20 years ago the alarm might have simply monitored the doors, wheel or whatever, now there’s all the interior monitoring, plus the plethora of electronics. I would reckon the average Skoda now has near to 80/90 microcontrollers, all of which drain the battery. Not to mention, despite being beefier, start/stop batteries take more of a beating. That said, the battery in my girlfriends Fiat survived 2 months without a start, and that was with a dash cam on parking mode always turning on, etc. OP you should be okay. If you’re concerned cranking will kill the battery, stick it on a charger for a few hours before you turn the key/press the button. Generally if it’s low, the car will tell you when you click it to ignition 1.

Stick a Halfords battery charger on it, start it up and get it tested at your local garage. It should be alright, but as JR says, stuff has moved on now. Our 2011 A3 was left for 3 months on the drive and did another 3 years on that battery, but that was a nice Bosch battery and the car had relatively few electronic things going on. My 2020 vRS had a perfectly healthy battery, until I left the doors open when deep cleaning it for a day, and was left with a virtually dead battery. Best suggestion is to trickle charge it, fire it up and see.

I must admit, whilst I didn't want to say it, I am inclined to agree. The lowest mileage petrol Octavia I found on AutoTrader (UK car selling site) for your budget of c. £7500, with full service history, had 70k on it (112,000km) which isn't exactly low. It was also pretty bare bones and had the 1.0 in it, which won't get you anywhere all that fast. Most appropriate thing was something like this @maxroal I have been in your position. For my first car, I bought a very clean 2013 1.0 Focus. From a small backstreet garage in the Midlands, it had 55,000km on it, one owner and cost me 7200 euros. It was very clean, and everything checked out. Fast forward three months and it had virtually blown up, with a repair list in the thousands. Turns out it was a lemon, with an engine and gearbox from a different car. I managed to get rid of it for under half of what I had paid, and promptly emptied my bank account at a SEAT dealer. Anyway, my point is - if you don't know all that much about cars, while it is unlikely, you could run into the same issues I had. It might be worth waiting a while, or reconsidering things, and seeing what a main dealer could do a Fabia or something for. The last thing you want is to be thousands into a car that is nothing but trouble.

Did you change the coolant type for the one with no silicone bag? I can't remember what is it (neither my EA211 Leon or EA888 Octavia have the bag) however I remember seeing that if removing the bag, you should switch to a slightly different coolant. I did read you'd done the therm and pump, but after seeing someone once drain old coolant into a basin and reuse it, I always ask😂 Of course, it would help to know if this issue existed before you did all that! I'd be inclined to just keep an eye on it, and check ti every now and again. Discrepancy or not, 105° is still within limits. Certainly, I recently drove 700 miles to the North of Scotland, in one hop, and then finished up on the mountain roads. The coolant stayed rock solid at 90° which, after some 13 hours and with the car fully loaded, I find it hard to believe. I reckon, like the fuel gauge, the temp is just a bit crap. My bad re the 718 (it's a friends GT4, I'm a student and couldn't afford a wheel on it) - I was more mentioning it, as JR said, as proof that oil/coolant can go well above normal operating temps. Oil will go up to several hundred degrees, and most coolants boil circa 130°, with some even going as high as 150/60°.

Guess Yiannimize don't want the business? No reccommendations here, but I will say you apparently have to be very careful when removing the PPF, as it can take the coating with it. I would get mine done, but after 30k miles on our roads they're already scratched to f***

1) I understand what you're asking. It's actually quite a clever thing to ask! Most people see a fifteen year-old car with 20k miles/30,000km on it and snap it up, without pausing to think. One way of looking at it is that, with a mileage that low, it's either been sat for a long time (bad) or has been driven constantly around town on short journeys (bad). Cars, generally, like to be driven. For example, I'd suggest that a 2018 with 80,000 motorway miles is a better bet than a 2018 with 50,000 town miles. Of course, it goes the other way too. Personally, I try to avoid buying cars with more than 50k (80,000km) on them - simply because that gives me a few years before thinking about timing chains, clutch, etc, etc. Another thing to consider is cars are made of more than just metal. Whether driven or not, all of the rubbers and plastics (suspension, engine bay) will perish and degrade. Again though, it all depends on how well the car was maintained, etc. 2) Any TSI post 2016 or so will be alright, as they had everything sorted by then. I would say you want to get one with below 85k miles/140,000km. I owned my Leon from 40k (64,000km) to around 70k (110,000km) and it was as tight as a drum. The timing belt on the 1.4 is quite important - somebody else will have to tell you when it should be done, I can't remember. 3) A friend of mine has a 1.4TSI appraching 120k miles/200,000km. I've seen a few touching 200k miles (320,000km), but at that age they're more trouble than they're worth. The issue with higher mileage cars is that it all depends on the maintenance history. You can buy a car with 80,000km that is absolutely knackered with no regular oil changes, no timing belt, etc etc, versus a 120,000km engine that has been maintained perfectly. From my personal experience, 130,000-150,000km is when bigger things start to need replacing/go wrong. A 2020 with 150,000km on it will have virtually no issues compared to a 2010 with 80,000km on it. The money you save on purchase price will likely be offset by the maintenance cost! Just my opinion. Things aren't always as they seem - my first car (2020) was a 2013 Focus with 35k miles on it and one owner, that blew up after 2 months. Lesson learned.