Scout66

Thanks for the reply Ray Maybe I wasn't specific enough. I don't think it is city mode. The right headlight gets 'stuck' even at speeds more than 40mph. Whilst driving on a straight A road at 55-60mph I have had other drivers flash me because of this headlight so I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to do what its doing. Next time it does it I'll flick the switch from auto and see what happens. Cheers

I have a 2016 Scout. Driving in dark with dipped headlights (set to auto). When I flick to high beams and go round a right hand bend, the right headlight points all the way over to the right and gets stuck there. When I go back to dipped beam the right light is still pointing right. If I then go round a left bend I can see the beam move left a bit but when i straighten up it goes back to pointing far right. Is there a fix? Anything i can try? I do have VCDS if that can help. Thanks

Interesting reading this how most people are using the bar figures. I'm still a little old school in that sense and I convert the figures to psi as I think it is slightly more accurate. I usually drive on my own so use the unladen figures 2.2bar or 32psi. After reading these posts and in particular the post from Gerrycan i will now adjust my pressures up a tad and try them on 34psi. I'll always use the guide as exactly that - a guide. Then I'll see how they look and feel and how the car handles. We all drive different styles so i think its important to have the car set up for the driver and then adjust accordingly for the load and temperature. My white brown and purple dog doesn't seem to affect the weight too much!!! I do check the car almost every week and can be a bit anal with tyres. I've done about 12k now and tyres are still on 5mm so not too bad so far. My winters (dunlop 4d) seemed to perform better at 33psi. Its good to get other peoples views on this subject though and as usual Briskoda is a great way to get info. Have any of you briiliant Scout owners done many tweeks with vcds yet? I did a few basic ones such as speed signs and needle seeep, just wondered what else there was?

I've managed to enable this on my MY16 Scout as per the instructions in the 1st post - thank you. The one thing I've noticed is it's not displaying the end of speed limit symbol (white circle with black diagonal line). Instead it displays a 70mph symbol. This happens on dual carriageways and motorways. The other speed limit values seem to be ok. Any ideas please?

Yes if you order a spare from new you will get a toolkit. You wont get the compressor and tyre gunk though.

Like others on here i didnt want a "space saver" or restricted speed spare wheel. I bought the skoda oem spare wheel tool kit @ £41. Then I trawled through a well known auction site for alloys. I have a Scout with polar wheels which are 7J x 17 h2et 45 with 225/50/r17 tyres. I bought an Audi alloy which was 7.5J x 17 h2 et45 with a michelin primacy tyre (5mm tread) 225/50/r17. Cost £45 Rolling circumference is exactly the same. Only difference is the wheel is 12mm wider which doesn't really make a difference. It is a tight fit in the wheel well but does go. I also have the VBF so the slight rise of the floor is hidden. Good to have peace of mind and flexibilty of spare or tyre gunk.

Hi All, I've just purchased a hex-net and am trying to get it working. I've tried downloading the software from Ross-Tech but it won't install. The installer works fine but it only seems to install shortcuts which don't lead anywhere. Has anyone had similar issues? how did you get round it? I've been in touch with Andy @ ross-tech but so far no good. Would appreciate any help/suggestions. Thanks

I bought one from superskoda and it is good quality. Almost identical to the original black one but with the stainless look to match my pedals. Took me about 5 mins to fit but I did need a t20 torx driver to get the 1 screw out. Then push up to disengage the lugs on the inside and it's off. Fitting the new one is easy. Engage the lugs and slide down. (Can be a little stiff) replace screw on right hand side and then admire your handy work.

Just picked up my new Scout. Quartz grey. 150bhp manual gearbox. Bi-xenon, led rear lights, cornering fogs, electric mirrors, variable boot floor, stainless steel pedals. This is my 3rd Octavia estate and I'm well chuffed again with Skoda quality.

Just picked up my new Scout. Quartz grey. 150bhp manual gearbox. Bi-xenon, led rear lights, cornering fogs, electric mirrors, variable boot floor, stainless steel pedals. This is my 3rd Octavia estate and I'm well chuffed again with Skoda quality.

I've just done a full service and cam belt + water pump change on my 2.0 tdi pd 140bhp. I have noticed a vibration through the steering wheel, gearstick and brake pedal which I don't remember being their before the service. It's more noticable cruising 70-80 mph. I have checked tyres, wheels etc all fine. My next step is to check the engine mounts and cam belt pulleys. One of the posts above refers to DMF, what's that?? I'll update here if I find anything definately or loose.

I've had falken ZE914 all round for the last 2 years. Very good tyre, especially for the price. No excessive noise, good handling. Would definitely recommend.

I did do the 180nm and then 180 degrees but that wheel didn't spin freely and was getting hotter than the other side so I undone the hub bolt and re-checked the setting. This time did 180nm and then just over 90 degrees. The wheel was spinning easier and not getting hot. No rim rock at all so hopefully it'll be ok. As far as sensors go - The 1st sensor I bought for rear right was from e-bay (about £10). Did a VCDS scan courtesy of Rally_Chris which showed rear right and rear left intermittent sensor fault. "Bit the bullet" and bought OEM sensors from skoda at £71 each and they have sorted the problem and my amber abs warning lights have gone out! Yippeeeee!!! At Last. The cheap sensors are obviously not of the right spec. So all together cost me about £220 but now my brakes work properly. Top tip though if you are playing about with ABS sensors, when you get one out - clean the hole up and then put some copper grease in the hole to stop it rusting again. Makes it easier to remove next time. Any questions please ask before paying out loads at the dealer!!

I've had the same problems and when i tried to remove the rear right sensor I accidentally damaged the ring on the hub - oops! After trawling the internet I found a hub for £33 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111010041894?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Then I found this very useful guide on how to do the job - http://www.njnoordhoek.com/?p=905 It was an excellent guide and I managed to do the job in about 2.5 hours (including a clean up of any parts removed). You will need special spline tools (M14 & M18) to undo the caliper mounting bracket and the hub bolt. I bought these and was impressed by the quality - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200744387698?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Unfortunately the new sensor I had put on may be defective as I've still got the 2 abs amber warning lights on. Gonna try and get it scanned with VCDS to see what fault it comes up with. It is recommended that if you remove the hub bolt you should replace it. To view the hub sensor ring you can just see it through a small gap from underneath, you can also see the wheel sensor. Good luck.

I've had almost the same problem. A while back the abs lights came on. I managed to clean up 3 of the wheel sensors but the 4th one wouldn't come out. It seemed to fix the fault then but now the abs light is back on. I bought a new sensor and during removal of the old one I damaged the sensor ring on the hub - oops! Old sensor out and new one in but lights still on. I had planned to get a new hub put on but then the handbrake warning light started beeping and flashing - aaargh! I've checked the fluid level - fine, checked the fluid level cap/sensor by removing the cap and inverting it to give an empty reading and then turning it up to give a full reading and the warning light did as it should. Put it all back together and went for a drive and it stayed off. Great thought I'd cracked it............ no........ the handbrake light came back on whilst driving home today....bugger! I still plan to do the rear hub for the abs problem but have no idea about the brake warning light. Any tips or solutions would be greatly appreciated, If I find a cure I'll let you know as well.

I have a stutter on my 2.0 TDI PD140. it only happens at 78 mph normally in 6th gear. It happens when i'm gently accellerating towards 80 mph, it stutters for a second (as if having a cough) and then is fine. Doesn't happen all the time so haven't paid a garage to try and find an invisible fault!!

I have a 20 mile commute to work. I get on average 46mpg on the way there and 52mpg on the way back. Try to drive the same everywhere - which is slowly(about 65mph on dual carriageway). The thing that really confuses me is why do I get higher figure when the weather is good?? For instance if the weather is good - 22 degrees + and the sun is out I get about 5-8mpg more than usual and that's with aircon on. In winter i will only get about 42mpg on the way to work? I thought engines worked better with a cool air intake?? Any ideas

I have had conti SP2 on from new, they were ok but quite hard and wore out after 18k miles on fronts. I tried conti premium contact (coz the garage put wrong ones on). they were ok - wore well good ride. When I bought a set of alloys to use for winter tyres they had michelins on and they were good. comfy grippy and wore very well. Due to replace my rear's and gonna switch from conti premium contact to Michelin Primacy HP, which I can get for £72 each delivered from mytyres, and the same for the fronts when they're ready. Budget or performance??? I prefer to get/pay for a well known brand that has done a lot of research and development. It's not just the tread pattern and how you drive - it's also about the compound of the tyre. A good compound will be more stable throughout harsh braking and cornering (which is where you need it most) so why scrimp on a lesser compound. Like others have said on here - 4 bits of rubber are all that keep you on the road - is it worth the risk?

My lights came on with the ignition but then went out until i started driving. As soon as it realised it wasn't getting the right signal from the wheel sensor (10mph or over) the lights came on. the sensors are really easy to change. They can be a bugger to get out but if you are replacing them, it doesn't matter if you break it on the way out. Give the hole a clean up, whack some copper slip on the new one (to stop it seizing in future) and then pop it in. Job done. I ordered a new sensor from ebay for £15.99 instead of paying 60 odd quid at the dealers. with the age of my car now and looking at other quotes I might have to look at changing the wheel bearings. Anyone any tips??

I have a 2007 Octavia. On Sunday the ABS warning light came on. After a quick google search, panic set in as the thought of a £1100 - £1300 bill for a new control unit did not impress me at all !! I phoned my Skoda dealer who informed me it would cost £93 just to run the diagnostic test, to tell us what's wrong. SHOCKING!!!!! £93 for a 5 min scan. No chance. I thought ...... what is there in the ABS system I can actually do anything about??? I took the wheel sensors out one by one and cleaned them (they were covered in gunk) and did a test drive in between wheels to see which if any made any difference. The sensors are held in place by 1 allen screw, they are a bit stiff to come out but with a little gentle leverage and patience they do pop out. It wasn't until after I'd done the rear left (last one) and the warning lights went out. Excellent!!! I then went to see a friend with VCDS capability and sure enough - after a "5 min" scan it confirmed the ABS fault was the rear left sensor. Happy now. I only wrote this post so that anyone in a similar position might be able to do the same (depending on the fault). Obviously if in doubt - go to the garage. This time I have saved myself at least £93. Big thanks to Chris for his help aswell. Good luck and safe driving