persimmontom

I've got the standard black ordered. It's not massively expensive so worth a shot. I'll report back.

I've found the broken signal wire from the door module (as well as a couple of others) in the driver's door bellows/gaiter. New pre-wired 28-pin connector ordered, and will redo all the wires into the door...

Have you tried a steam cleaner?

That's a brilliant result. Just need the code for black now!!

You forgot: Keep your sunroof drains unblocked. I've just bought brush/line for this purpose and will definitely be doing it now!

Do you know anyone near you with VCDS that can scan for any fault codes? I wonder if you have a faulty release button, or if you have one or more chafed wires either in the tailgate gaiter(s) or the driver's door gaiter.

Yes I suspect that's where I'm likely to find my issue.

Thanks, that's better to understand. Do your rear licence plate lights work okay?

Okay, so just to clarify, because I'm still unsure. The tailgate and the rear door on the driver's side only open from inside, and won't open using the handle (door) or button (tailgate) on the outside? What do you mean by "the others doors work on the central locking"? Is this unlocking/locking or actually physically opening them? Is this using the remote on the key or the physical key itself? How are you opening the tailgate from the inside? Is this with a tailgate release button next to the gear selector?

Best of luck. Let us know when you get it sorted.

Looks like 3T0827799 (left side) or 3T0827799A (right side) but I'm open to correction.

Can you describe your symptoms a little better? How are you trying to open the door and the tailgate? Are all the other doors unlocking and opening okay?

Update, I've since seen it connects directly into the A pillar within the door gaiter.

2013 Elegance Pre-Facelift. Can anyone explain (or, even better, provide a picture of) where the 28 pin connector is on the right side A pillar? It goes towards the 32-pin connector on the door control unit. Need to know how much plastic I'm going to need to take off before I start it!

Wondering if anyone can help me? I'm looking for someone with a pre-facelift Superb Mk2 Elegance estate with a fully functioning electric tailgate and access to VCDS (I know it's a big ask) who's happy to send me their current coding on Module 09 - Central Electronics. If it's an automatic 2.0L diesel, then even better. Long story short (from this post) - interior tailgate release button isn't working, and I suspect it's coded as 'not installed' but any bit(s) that I might need to change aren't currently labelled as such, so I'd like to try and investigate where this, if at all, may lie.

Did it come with fitting instructions?

Had five minutes today so plugged in the VCDS. No fault codes on the electric trunk module. Went in to try the function tests, and when I tried to run the test to open rear lid, I got the error "refused by control module" with the code 7F 2F 22.

Problem solved. Thanks @David6253

Thanks David. I was thinking I should have probably tried this!

Battery went flat yesterday during the window regulator changed. Charged, vehicle starts fine, managed to clear all the Christmas tree of other faults which also got thrown up, but left with this one which won't clear. Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 1K0-909-14x-GEN3.clb Control Module Part Number: 1K0 909 144 P Component and/or Version: EPS_ZFLS Kl. 196 3305 Software Coding: Work Shop Code: WSC 33361 790 00050 VCID: 372B2BC1234E7A627F9-8062 1 Fault Found: 03803 - Steering Angle Sensor for Steering Aid 000 - - - MIL ON Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 11100000 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Time Indication: 0 Freeze Frame: Battery Volts: 10.5 V PD Temperature: 16.0°C Count: 2 Steering Angle: 0.00° Count: 0 SteerAng n.Init Any ideas?

Battery charged. Window now working fine. Was convinced I'd completely fluffed something up. Worth noting: don't tighten the 4 regulator runner bolts up straight away. Keep them loose and put the window up and down a few times to make sure it seats properly and then nip them up afterwards.

... And I have permanently lost two screws to the depths of the door...

Having to replace my broken regulator today. Of course it isn't the 2 hour job I expected it to be. Currently standing here with the battery charging because I can't get the window back up and the glass kept coming out of the retaining clips... Wish me luck.

Mine were a straight swap with no issues and no error messages. I don't have DAB so can't comment.

I'd be interested in this as well. Mine was done recently, it's 105k miles now, but it can be a bit clunky, especially when changing down at lower speeds (or picking up from a slow roll). Have you tried the DSG reset procedure?