Rsedmonds

A 7.8 x 260mm pipe holds 12.43mls. We just need to know how many pipes there are and how much capacity each end holds. 😂 Looking at pictures there’s 14 pipes so that works out to 174mls which would work out to be correct.

I did but nothing changed

@nta16 I agree the parts cannon is not the way to go and all parts so far fitted have been to replace damaged parts or recommended during a service. But by replacing the parts for the reasons stated now means that the only parts not changed is the heater matrix and pipe work. I can see that my lower radiator hose has gone soft so if not replaced soon will soon split and the other hoses fitted don’t fit correctly. I’ve removed my heater matrix today and other then the contents coming out of the box resembling and saw mill it the matrix only holds 200mls of water and checking the internet I’m see figure of between 300-500ml as an average for standard heater matrix’s to hold. if I do end up replacing it which I’m starting to doubt whether it needs to be replaced. But, once I’ve rebuilt the cooling system it rules it out which then leaves me the question of what else it could be?

Does anyone know how much fluid a heater matrix should hold? I’ve removed mine and it only holds 200ml which seems low to me. 🙏

I’ve tested the cap and it blows off between 1-1.5 bar which is correct. I’ve going back to scratch and stripping the whole thing down. I’ve ordered replacement pipes, not moulded but the correct bore so thought the run might be longer the flow should be as per spec. I’m also going to order a heater matrix (even without feedback from my other post) and then everything in the cooling system will have been replaced.

@R_Blue hi mate, I’m suffering with my 1.6 Felicia overheating even over here in the UK at 8 degrees. While searching for answers and solutions I’ve come across your comprehensive write up and would like to understand what you did better. When I try to open the pictures all I get is “image not found” messages for all pictures. Is it possible to share the pictures again or tell me how I can get to see them elsewhere where? regards Rob

@nta16 hi mate, my intention with doing the system flush was to open up any small passage ways that could be restricting the coolants flow. I think the flow is good as I’m getting a good return at the header tank. Checking what I’ve fitted the thermostat housing is correct to LLLparts though mine according to my order has an 80 degree thermostat rather than 87 degree one quoted. The water pump is a Quinton Hazell Water Pump QCP3157 which was bought as part of a kit . When doing a search it says 8th the correct one for the car. The head gasket kit I’m still trying to track down what I bought from GSF. Timing I will check again but isn’t managed by the ECU? Plugs are what came with the car (I’ll check their correct) air filter, oil filter and oil 5/30 are all new. Brakes are free and release well after being applied. When the car is sat on the drive the temp will climb slowly towards 100 degrees, the fan kicks in and will bring it back down to 90. Over the last couple of days I’ve been vacuum filling the system though it only seems to take between 3-4 litres of coolant at a time. When applying the vacuum it holds rock solid and doesn’t budge. I also pressure tested the system and it only dropped 2 psi in 3hrs. This suggests to me that the head gasket has a good seal but I will do a leak down test this week. I have today tried to burp the car by jacking it up from side to side while running it up and applying revs. I did notice that there wasn’t a great build up of pressure in the system and I was able to remove the cap without any loss of fluid. I’m now starting to think that my coolant hoses are too soft and are not supporting the system when pressure should be building.

The thermostat switch has got 84-91 stamped on the side. I know it works and at the moment I’m happy with how it’s performing. It comes on when the needle is horizontal or around 100 degrees

Wel that’s not changed a thing. 2 flushes with the thermostat out and 2 flushes with the thermostat in. Took the car for a drive and it took longer to get there but get there it did, back to where it was and I’m not sure whether that it’s limit or it’s the fan kicks in (which it does) and brings it back down. I had a cabin temp of around 50c but I’m at a loss now as to what it can be and can’t afford the coolant 😖.

I put the flush in about 18hrs ago running it up to temp then left it to do its best over night. I’ve just given it its first flush of the day and I’m now sat in the car running it up to temp writing this message. I’ll repeat this at least twice more as I flush out any remaining cleaner. Doing this over and over again also give me the opportunity to practise with the vacuum filling system I haven’t yet had the chance to use yet but it’s going to get abused today. 😂🤣😂🤣

Thank you for looking. I ran into the same issue when I looked but found schematics very sketchy on lllparts and didn’t feel an overwhelming sense of have the correct pipe. It surprising how the simplest of parts could become the rocking horse **** everyone’s looking for. Hopefully I can drop on a 1.6 that’s being broken and the pipes not cut.

I’ve had the pipes off and the flow through the matrix is good. I have put a piece of copper pipe in my problem pipe to extend it and take the tension out of it. I’ve pressure tested the system this morning and it’s hold good pressure. Later I’m going to vacuum fill the system and put a coolant system flush in it and leave that over night, then flush and fill it tomorrow.

Little update. New radiator arrived today and has now been fitted, but looking at the old one removed I couldn’t see any really issues other than it was showing its age. I’ve taken it for a run as much as I legally can and to be honest there isn’t any significant change. The needle does sit slightly lower but I have to bear in mind the front bumper or grill was not on the car. The picture attached shows the temp when I pulled up and by the time I got the camera on my phone open the temp had already started to fall. Does anybody know the dimensions of the heater matrix pipes as I’m thinking of splicing a piece of pipe in to release the tension on the one that stretched? Also can the heater matrix be removed without removing the heater box? Regards Rob

I know there’s always options and I’m not trying to keep the truck super original but the pipes I’m looking for are highly formed. It comes out of the airbox at 90 degrees travels about 20mm then turns another 90 degrees and so on. I wouldn’t be able to get that type of shaping from a straight pipe, if that makes sense. I’m amazed that I can’t find any pipes new or old anywhere. My thoughts are to cut and put a piece of copper pipe in there as a last measure.

Hi, I’m looking for a pair of heater matrix to thermostat housing coolant pipes for a 1.6 AEE engine. As mine are not the correct ones for the car and are stretched across the airbox. I would also be keen on the 2 radiator pipes and header tank pipe as well if their available also? Does anyone have a secondhand pair/set for sale or can point me in the direction of a new set please? Regards Rob

There’s 3 that all sit together on the back of a 1.6 thermostat housing and he put them on wrong. When I bought the truck he even said that the heater was crap and didn’t work. If memory serves me correctly this is how he had them arranged.

@TrentBarton Hi mate, how are you getting on with your erratic tick over? My car isn’t on the road as yet but I have been able to give it a sneaky run and it seems OK. I’m not closing the case yet as I do t feel I’ve proven it out thoroughly yet but the signs are good. I do now have another issue where Its running a little hot that I’m focusing on first so watch this space.

aahhh, I didn’t realise there were 3 different sized radiators. On your figures I do have the correct radiator fitted for a 1.6. Looking at the radiator it’s not in the best of conditions so a change won’t hurt. Regarding the coolant pump it was all changed while doing the rebuild as a matter of course rather than a necessity I also changed the water pump, thermostat housing, thermo stat and temp sensor. The coolant hoses were also connected wrongly to the thermostat housing but after asking on this site the correct configuration was found. I still need to find thermostat housing to the heater matrix hoses as the ones fitted aren’t correct and thought they have flow are tight against the air box. The air guide is there. @D.FYLAKTOS The sensor fitted does have a yellow ring but as previously stated if at tick over the needle sits perfectly on 90degree. Do you know the difference between blue and yellow. @Papez Does anyone have any idea where I can get the heater matrix coolant hoses. I did originally post asking but didn’t get any response?

Hi, the fan is turning in the correct direction. The measurements I took are not correct, the width of the radiator is only 285mm so when the previous owner did his engine swap he failed to fit the wider 322mm radiator from the donor vehicle. This suggests that it’s been running hot since the swap which could also explain why the head gasket was blown when I bought the car. I’ve ordered the correct size rad and as the radiator cowl won’t fit from the smaller radiator I’ve ordered a 12” eBay cheapo radiator until I can find the correct cowling.

Hi guys, I’m close to get another Felicia pick up, up and running but as it gets closer to being back on the roads I’m seeing issues I’ve not seen before. Giving the car a shack down I’ve notice that the temp gauge sits at around 100degrees when driving as pictured. When the car is parked up the temp sits at 90, rising to around the 100 degree mark and the fan kicks in and pushes the temp back down quickly as expected. The Felicia is a bit of a mongrel in that it started life as a 1.3 but now has a 1.6 in so I’m expecting issues like this. What do people think the reason for the temp sitting so high could be? My rad measure roughly 60x40x4 (is this the correct size?). The thermostat housing was replaced and came with a thermostat installed. Thanks in advance Rob

Thank for the toque setting they came in handy. I’ve removed the throttle body this morning and gave it a good cleaning on the outside firstly with a degreaser, secondly with brake cleaner moving the brake cleaner to the inside of the throttle body and finishing off with carb cleaner. Considering it looked clean my rags were filthy. I also noticed that where the flap meets the body there was quite a bit of pitting ( obviously from its life on the farm). There is also what I assume to be an air temp sensor on the side that I removed and cleaned while I was in there. I’ve now had the car sat on my drive for over 40 minutes now ticking over (haven’t tried any throttle yet) and it’s started up at 1200rpm and dropped to around 900-950 where it’s sat now. It’s completed about 6 heat cycles in that time and the cab is lovely and toast. I’m Not saying it’s sorted yet as it’s early day but it’s running far better than it ever was. I also checked my fuel filter and it doesn’t look like it’s ever been changed so that’s next on my list.

not 100% sure as I’ve been looking for the article I read originally and can’t find it. I did find the like below which take you through the reset process in VCDS thoughts 🤷🏼‍♂️ http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_%28TBA%29

The O ring is available for £10.50 with P+P on LLLparts and measures 52x2. You can get an equivalent from eBay for around £4.

Thanks for that. I have the two ends that i assumed go into control unit but no control unit. so connecting them up is out of the question.

I'm sure I've read that somewhere and when i get time ill try to find what i read out. I suppose that disconnecting the battery makes sense and could have possible cleared my initial issue in the ECU making me think that it had gone away. Then having a bad (assumed) throttle body the issue soon came back. I think that i might remove the throttle body next to clean it and see where that leads?