TerFar

The point was correct. The fuel is cut off by the computer deactivating the injectors during overrun conditions. Even though the engine may still be going through its cycles driven from wheels by the momentum of the vehicle, absolutely no fuel is injected into the cylinders. Obviously, the computer reenables the injectors as the revs fall below a predetermined speed so that the engine / car doesn't stall. Cleverly, once you are stationary, the computer disables the injecters again to stop the engine (start / stop control). As for brim to brim topping up; over a period of time, this will average out, but accuracy is compounded by the difference in the density of fuel as the mean temperature changes. In the cold Winter, density is higher, in the Summer it is lower. Although the fuel stores at garages are underground where the temperature / density is not subject to a big change, in your car tank, it is more significant. But once again, over a length of time, these difference will balance out. So the accuracy of your figures will be quite accurate over a couple of years, but over a single holiday or just a random month they'll be no more than a rough guide.

It really is worth getting a trickle charger. As long as you park up either in your garage or close to it and a power source, it is simple to clip on a trickle charger and leave it running all the time it is parked up. They are cheap (some as little as £25) and will do a great job extending your battery's life. Slow charge is so much better than slamming in 20-40+ Amps, and once fully charged, the trickle charge continues to 'trickle' in a very low current (a few hundred milliamps) to keep it topped up and also overcome modern cars' constant use of the battery even when parked up. I had a motorcycle until I was 70+ and was definitey a fair weather cyclist: so I used a trickle charge all the time. My batteries always lasted 10+ years.

I agree: it's definitely bad advice. A trickle charger is needed this cold weather or the battery will die. Here's one on Amazon black friday sale: https://www.amazon.co.uk/NOCO-GENIUS1UK-Fully-Automatic-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B0828HMG3N/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=24BO31VXYS4QL&keywords=car+trickle+charger+12v&qid=1638116967&quartzVehicle=29-10519&replacementKeywords=car+trickle+12v&sprefix=Car+trickle%2Caps%2C192&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMElQOTFKTTk1T0dKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTM1NjAzMkVCVzVIRVRFSjdMRCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTc0NDYwMlNBOEVPMzRFNjRTNiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

It would be good to see GENUINE failure figures for the Cambelt. I dont see a proliferation of reports on cambelts. Just the Guardian who seem biased against everything VAG! Earlier 1.2 Tsi engines (especially on Polos) were destroyed by the inlet cam pulley bolts becoming loose (usually preceeded by a minute oil leak) causing failure of the cam and engine destruction. But it was not cambelt failures. Perhaps VW concealed the facts and covered up by issuing guidelines to check the cambelt at 50k when any oil leak or loose variable inlet cam would be obvious. There were no recalls and the fault hasn't been repetitive in engines after 2016.

Ditto for me too. I will probably have mine inspected at 50k mikes, but I expect the car will be 12 or 14 years old by then, so unless it has perished, I'm doubtful it will need replacing. My thoughts are that automatically changing them is just for revenue collection!

The options are not as simple as disconnecting the sensor connection from the negative battery terminal: easy, removes the need to remember to press the override button, takes 2 minutes and is just as easily reversible at any time. 😉

Sounds like the clutch thrust bearing.

That is correct, but we have been very much limited to local journeys for the last couple of years, which is why we fully disabled the function. If only they had made the S/S override switch 'sticky' rather than resetting itself when you switch off the ignition. It's another small instance of loss of freedom of choice where we are dictated to instead of given a democratic option.

Most likely problem will be a not too well charged battery. I disconnected the BCM (battery control module) sensor from the battery negative terminal to permanently override the Start/Stop malarkey and to ensure that the battery gets fully charged and not stuck on 80% by the BCM. IMO, the BCM is just a crazy EU influenced piece of programming garbage to eek out an extra 0.00000000001% fuel improvement. All it does is stop the battery fully charging. I'm not dead against Start/Stop, but as I rarely do any driving in heavy start/stop traffic, it is is something that I don't miss. As you have probably noticed, when the battery gets low, the BCM inhibits the start/stop function until the battery level improves anyway.

It sounds like you have some foreign debris close to the fan. When you switch on, the object is touching the fan, the fan struggles up to speed when the airspeed becomes sufficient to blow it back a little so it is no longer touching.

It doesn't sound too promising! My experience from working on older engines (pre-electronics or computers) would be to remove the cylinder head next to get a good look. It may still be something relatively simple like the head gasket, but it's rather symptomatic of a piston head hole or broken rings. Sorry, I can't help you with the engine type differences.

It's a good idea to have front/rear dashcams that you can leave active when you have to leave the car in a vulnerable place. They use little power, but if you leave the car unused for long periods, you can use a 'power brick'; one used for charging mobiles when away from mains power. You connect the dashcam 24/7 to the power brick supply, but connect the power brick charging input to one of the vehicle's ignition switched supplies, so it only recharges when the vehicle is in use. Make sure the dashcam uses 128Gb memory card, so that you get several days recordings before it starts to overwrite though because sod's law demands that the vehicle will be damaged and the record overwritten before you notice!

Start/stop hasn't been as issue with the DSG as such, but it has been an issue with the battery getting low, so I disabled it permanently by disconnecting the BCM (the software battery control module) sensor connection from the negative battery terminal. This allows the battery to fully charge all the time.

I'm on my third Skoda with DSG and I've never looked back. I've had an Octavia Est, a Yeti and now the Fabia MC. I adapted very quickly to DSG and now always brake with my left foot and reserve the right foot for the throttle, so Hill Assist and those electronic gizmos are just unnecessary complications. If I'm in a traffic queue, when the car in front moves off, I dwell a second or two to create a gap and then move off, but as soon as I am at a sensible speed (maybe 5 to 10 mph depending on how the queue is moving), I slip into neutral and let the car coast until I get close to the stationary car in front when I put it back into D again. If I start to drop back, I select D again and increase speed a little. (Note that you can move between D and N without having to depress the brake pedal as long as the car is still moving. Once stationary in N, you have to depress the brake pedal to select anything else.) When stopping and remaining stationary, it is fine to stay in D with your foot on the brake, as the mechatronic unit ensures that the clutch is disengaged.

I'm a low mileage user: I have no intentions of changing mine, but will have it inspected (by an independent) at 10 years (estimate close to 50,000 miles by then).

I drive occasionally from Chichester to York in my Fabia MC and it seems more than adequately comfortable to drive in one go (270 miles, 5 hours).

The computer diagnostics are easily fooled. But the symptoms described could easily be due to excessive compression escaping past a piston.

I NEVER turn off the aircon (and never have in any car I own). It prevents any mould or bacteria making the aircon smell. It also dehumidifies the incoming air, so helps reduce internal condensation. Just adjust the heat control to suit the weather.

My ancient engine diagnostics that haven't been use for decades suggests something major like a failed piston ring or even a small hole in a piston.

I had Halfords replace mine. They were fast and efficient (booked appointment online), had the battery ready when I arrived and had to recode when swapped over. Took around 15 mins. Of course, other Halfords may or may not be so on the ball as Chichester Halfords.

It's definitely best to change them. My original Bridgestone tyres were noted cracking on the 5 year service (independent) who advised to replace them even though tread-wise they were well legal.

I think you're about right. Cam belt should be inspected at 5 years: it is unlikey to worn as the manufacturer guarantees it for 100,000m. The aircon may need a service, but choose an independent specialising in aircons. Most probably the VAG main dealer sends aircon work elsewhere anyway. I keep my start /stop permanently disabled by disconnecting the BCM sensor from the negative terminal of the battery. That overrides the idiotic 80% charge limiter. With your moderate mileage, I'd leave the plugs until the fifth service too. They are longlife plugs, 50,000 miles seems reasonable.

I'm amongst those who believe that VAG are conning us. Outside Europe, there is a different set of guidelines. For example, the Cambelt manufacturer advises a 160,000 warranty and VAG America advise Inspection of the belt at 50,000 miles, not necessarily a replacement. I barely drive 5,000 miles a year and have no plans to even think of an inspection before the 10th annual service in 2026. I will have my first Aircon service done (independently) at the next (6th) service. I've had the break fluid changed at 3 years, so again next service. Brakes are a key life saving part! I'll probably change the spark plugs for the first time too. So next service will be a bit more comprehensive, but definitely done at an independent garage, not VAG.

We'll have to disagree about the cambelt. The 'rubber' composition of the cambelt has no resemblance to tyre composition. The manufacturer of the belts claims a lifetime guarantee and in most of the world outside the EU, the service recommendation is to EXAMINE the belt at 50,000 miles. There's no recommendation to change it.

I wouldn't worry about the cambelt. If the car is driven normally it will never need replacing. It's just a VAG con to extract money for the garages. If its a DSG gearbox, then make sure that the fluid replacement is done by competent experts. Otherwise, the MC is a good vehicle and drives very well especially in sports mode (DSG). My 2016 MC came with lowered sports suspension and 17" wheels shod with 215/45R17 tyres. It handles better than the (now obsolete) vRS version.