TerFar
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Everything posted by TerFar
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I'm loyal to Tesco! It's Momentum for me.
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Dunlop SP Sports Maxx RT 215/40 W 17 at 32lbs front and rear.
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That doesn't change my thoughts: I still suspect the tyres.
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That makes me strongly suspect the tyres. If the wheels have been replaced in different locations, the different tyre wear to the tred patterns may be causing the noises. Some tyres are reknowned for this, but I cannot remember which make are susceptible.
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When you say you changed the tyres from Winter to Summer tyres, were they new tyres or tyres you used last Summer?
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Frankly, not too good for me. I have a 2016 1.2 DSG Montecarlo with effing great big wheels. I bought it use at 2 years old with less than 5,000 miles on the clock (owner had died and its sale was held up by executors). Those 17" fat wheels with uprated suspension makes for fantastic handling (heaps better than the vRS version), but it is neither comfortable on rough roads (and what roads aren't rough and potholed these days), nor economical. I get around 40mpg locally around town and can stretch it to 50mpg on a longer run. I do think the 1.2 Tsi coupled with the 7-speed DSG is a really good combination in a small car: it is surprisingly responsive in Sports mode. But it's a harsh ride. I'll definitely avoid big wheels for my next car!
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First, don't be concerned about the rock hard brake pedal: that is normal until the engine starts. Are all the lights going through the check phase and going off except the engine and brake lights? Anything else happen on the display?
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Try this article on VAG 1.0Tsi reliability issues. Mostly they seem no better or worse than other small engines. However, the Japanese and Koreans have a better record for small engines snd longevity. https://www.motorreviewer.com/engine.php?engine_id=130
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I'm guessing you're referring to stop/start. As rum4mo suggests, the most likely cause is battery charge. It may indicate an ageing battery, but most likely it's the combination of short journeys, cold weather and VAG's EU enforced ghastly charging system that limits battery charge to around 80% capacity and only charges on overrun. I got so fed up with it (and occasional dashboard warnings) , I simply disconnected the BCM (battery control module) sensor connector from the negative battery terminal so that the alternator acts as it should rather than to the EU's stupid dictate.
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Unless you live in a harsh environment or drive like a racing driver everywhere, I wouldn't bother with Skoda UK's money grubbing recommendations. 100,000 miles (160km) is a reasonable recommendation. (I'm still waiting for evidence of cambelt failure in any number, let alone significant numbers.) More important at 60,000 miles is first spark plug replacement (unless you were tricked into changing them earlier).
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Well you have gained peace of mind! But it is annoying that VAG cannot make a definitive statement and show genuine figures for Cambelt failures to back it up. Personally, I didn't worry too much because with my MC almost 7 years old, I didn't expect it to be worth a lot by now. But covid and shortage of chips has brought it value back up to £10k: quite a shock!
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Doesn't work if you need to trickle charge a battery not attached to the car; so a little restrictive, but it does overcome the bonnet release problem.
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DON'T fall for this outrageous CON. The manufacturer of the belt states 100,000 miles (160,000 km). VAG in most of the World recommends INSPECTION at 50,000 mile or 5 years. So just maybe ask for an inspection when it is serviced. But IF they replace it, demand they retain it for you to see it. I've no intention of replacing mine until it is 10 years old.
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Thanks for the clear explanation. They sure make it complicated these days.
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I thought it had one pump with two output channels each with separate thermostats. One channel for the engine (which open first) and the other for the ancillaries (which opens later at a higher temperature). Am I wrong?
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Real shoddy workmanship. I had a problem with a Vauxhall that put me off them forever. My driver's window stopped working and the red dashboard light came on permanently. Vauxhall dealer reported that their electrician diagnosed me needing a new window motor and a new alternator. Estimate £300. Short story: I found that the wires entering the door panel had been chaffing because the gromet had worked loose. I repaired the broken wire and refitted the gromet tightly. Cost: free plus 1 hours work. Alternator: I drove to the nearest Bosch dealer and explained the symptom. Instantly they diagnosed that probably it just needed a new regulator pack. It took less than 5 minutes to plug in the new regulator at the back of the alternator. Cost £22. So was the electrician useless or was the garage just generating easy dosh!
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My advice is definitely go for a trickle charger. There are plenty on Amazon or eBay at very reasonable cost. I suggest trying to find a friend/acquaintance who is nimble with a long arm that can slip in the driver's door and then reach over to pull the bonnet release. There's no need to disconnect the battery. Just connect the clamps to the battery terminals (ensure correct polarity, of course) and gently lower the bonnet down, but not closed.
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I'd check the battery before commiting your car to a dealer. Short journeys can be a problem because of the idiotically overcomplex charging system that's too clever for itself. I suggest that you disconnect the BCM (battery control module) sensor and take the car out for a good 20 mile or more fast run. There are plenty of posts on this group regarding the batteries and BCM. The BCM sensor is the little black connection to the negative terminal of the battery. Just release the plug and tuck it out of the way. This will allow the battery to charge to 100% and inhibit start/stop.
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I've been using mostly Tesco hi octane for 3 years and have had no problem, so I'd suspect the sensor. It'll probably much cheaper than changing the plugs which with Skoda are a ripoff.
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Yes. Most garages seem to be at it. Even Halfords tried to persuade me when it was serviced last January!
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There are loads of posts about the belt on the Tsi engine. Your garage is obviously ignorant of some facts as the cambelt doesn't drive the water pump, so it's irrelevant. VW recommendation is to INSPECT the cambelt at 5 years, 50,000 miles on the Tsi unit. The manufacturer of the cambelt publishes a 160,000 ml warranty. IMHO, unless you've given the car a hard life in a dirty climate, I wouldn't bother with the inspection until 10 years, 100,000 miles. It's just a money spinner. Ask VW for detailed information on cambelt failures: of course, they don't exist.
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