SwimmerBoy

The reverse is also true! After driving the VRS for 10 months I jumped back in a 1.8vvc petrol. I thought there was something seriously wrong with it until I realised I was changing up at around 3,500 rpm instead of letting it rev to the 7,200rpm limit!

Might not be it's intended use, but maybe it'd be a good idea to get a group buy organised?

Cheers for the responses, I've got a couple of axle stands and a trolley jack so propping up the front isn't an issue. I've taken off the EGR before to clean it out, so that shouldn't be an issue. As for the other links - I was planning on just replacing the turbo, but looking at them I might take it off this weekend (if the weather picks up) and take the turbo to bits, see if I can clean it out and get it working myself. Whilst I was at it I was going to clean up the pipes, intercooler and replace the oil (it's due now anyway). Thanks again, I'll stick up a post in the technical guides section if I get anywhere.

Looks like the turbo went on my VRS (Original Post) so I'll be sourcing another one (probably eBay) and fitting it myself. Now I know one end of a spanner from the other, and in the past have replaced cambelts, cylinder head gaskets and even whole cylinder heads when working on my previous cars. I was planning on grabbing an old digital camera I have and taking a few snaps whilst I do it - mainly so I know how it goes back again, but also to stick together a quick 'How To' that might help people that want to undertake a similar job in the future. I've never worked on a Turbocharged engine before and was just wondering if anyone has any hints or tips before I start?

Had the ones in my mates Audi 'used on me' at full heat - fell asleep on the M6 when we were going south. Woke up with a really odd, warm feeling between my legs. Must admit that in the few seconds it took me to wake up I seriously thought I'd had an accident!

So I take it that the turbo needs to be replaced completely and can't be repaired then? Not really got a lot of knowledge of turbocharged engines, but have a technical mind (replaced 2 cambelts, and even a whole cylinder head in the past ) so I'll most likely be carrying out the work myself. While I'm at it, could another turbo just bolt straight on, or would it require a remap to get the car to use it efficiently/reliably? Yea, used to have one last year but I kinda had a minor bump with a tree on the motorway and bought the Fabia instead. (Read whole story here!) Found the one above on eBay, but it was in the wrong section (Classic Cars), had average pictures and the description didn't really tell you much. Much to my delight I found that the head gasket had gone 5 months ago, and the whole new cylinder head had been replaced - so half the engine was brand new! Total cost for that service: over £2,000 Also, the MOT is due up, but it passed last year (11k ago) with a clean sheet - no advisories. Just to make things even better, it came with a black hard top - these normally go between £350-£550 on eBay depending on season and condition All this for £870! Think I got myself a bargain!

Buggar! Was kinda hoping it'd be something simple! :( Looks like I'll be on the hunt for a turbo then.

OK, here's some more info: The Engine Coolant Temp Sensor has been on the way out for a month or so - it's on my list of things to do! The MAF fault was probably caused when I disconnected the sensor whilst the engine was running before dinner. As for the "Charge Pressure Control: Negative Deviation" that appears to point towards a problem with the boost pressure being too low - probably a pipe or the intercooler itself? (Ross-Tech Wiki) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine Controller: 038 906 019 LA Component: 1,9l R4 EDC 0400SG 5405 Coding: 00102 Shop #: WSC 13765 TMBWU46Y0???????? SKZ7Z0D??????? 3 Faults Found: 17664 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (G62): Open or Short to Plus P1256 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 17964 - Charge Pressure Control: Negative Deviation P1556 - 35-00 - - 17552 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Open or Short to Ground P1144 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent Readiness: N/A ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Looks like I'll be out in the drive with a torch trying to find the bloody thing!

The story goes like this: Coming back from work on Friday, came off the motorway fine but when stopped at the lights noticed a really weird 'Wooooooooo' coming from the car. Pulling away there was a lot less power, like the turbo wasn't there. Got it home and thought 'Ah, boost pipe has popped off - I'll fix that when I can be bothered' then took my new (£900 ) toy out on the weekend then yesterday and today to work: Came home today, removed the undertray and checked the pipes to the intercooler. The top one was connected (could just see it throught the slits at the front and feel it if I squeezed my arm up) and the bottom one was still there. I've traced the pipes from top of the engine, into the intercooler and back up - all seem to be connected securely. :confused: Listening to the sound it's definetely air-driven, narrowing it down to the air intake or exhaust. Seems to be coming from the back of the engine when looking in from the front, perhaps behind or under the turbo? I'm hoping I've not knackered the turbo as there's no nasty noises. The only symptom is a 'Wooooo' on idle - like there's someone vaccuming in the next room. This increases in volume up till about 1800-2000rpm where it gets significantly louder. By 2500rpm it sounds like a very loud, annoying toddler with a wooden whistle! Going to give it a blast with Vag-com after I've had my dinner, but does anyone have any clue as to what might be the issue? My betting would still be on a boost pipe, but I can't for the life of me see it. Thanks in advance, and sorry about the extra-long post!

Will come in handy these cold mornings though when the steering wheel and gearknob haven't had a chance to warm up

If it's going to be a continual project I'd recommend getting a VRS, then a remap. From there you'll have 160bhp (ish). After that a you can fit a FMIC, PD160, bigger turbo and uprated clutch. Should almost see you to 200BHp with another remap to take advantage of the new engine 'bling'. Second hand VRS's aren't much more than the PD100's if you have a good look around. If it's going to be an ongoing project then in the early stages a standard VRS will cost much less to insure than a remapped pd100 with VRs bits on it which will look and act like a standard VRS.

I get the squealing sound you describe, but only after i've taken it for a play round the country back roads. I'm thinking in my case it's because the heat has expanded something that's rubbing against the brake disk as it goes away once the wheels have cooled.

Yes, you can fit a tow bar quite legally, but it isn't approved to tow anything so as soon as you attach anything that isn't a bike rack to it you've invalidated your insurance. :thumbdwn:

Nope! The two offences were 2 years apart and had nothing to do with the write-off either! :P MW10 was cause I was following a lorry through some roadworks and there was a marked police car was behind me. The speed limit was 40 and the lorry was doing 20. The roadworks ended, speed limit went back to 70 and the cones trailed off so I indicated out and overtook. Police car behind me followed for a couple of miles then pulled me over when I pulled off at the next junction - apparantly although the speed limit was 70 and the roadworks had ended there was still a big red 'X' on the gantry, so I got 3 points and a £60 fine! SP50 was in the Fabia - my rear window washer pipe had popped off so I couldn't see anything out my rear window. Was late for work so was pushing it a bit, turned out I'd stuck my foot down right in front of a Police traffic car :eek:. Saying that he was quite interested in the Fabia, couldn't believe it pulled away from him from 60-96Mph up a hill so well!

Oh, out of interest I quite like to change all the options on the quote form to see if I could make it any beter - found I could have knocked off another £150 or so, but I wasn't really up for getting a sex change and finding a hubby!

£650 for a 10 month bonus accelerator from Admiral. I'm 24, no NCB due to a write-off for £3000 in December, SP50 and a MW10 on my licence (6 points total). Was quite chuffed with that price! If you're young try putting your parents on it too - adding my dad lowered the quote by around £150, adding Mum lowered by 84p! :confused: Saying that, I think it's technically illegal to put people on it to lower the quote if they don't actually drive it.

Thought this was because they wanted a rally car based on the Fabia, but by Rally rules it has to be based on a production car and be longer than 4m? I'm sure I read somewhere that Skoda decided to release the VRS and lengthen the bumpers to give them the 7cm (or whatever) extra to get over the 4m mark. Saying that, I much prefer the VRS's looks over standard but I'm saying no more as I flat out refuse to jump on this bandwagon!

1.5 Feet, not metres. Wouldn't be over the bonnet, but you'd probably get it leaking into the cabin through the lower door seals.

Most insurance companies will sort this for you but you have to pay a small excess. Had a stone fly up from a lorry on my old car - huge crack across the windscreen. Three hours later I had a new screen fitted by autoglass and was £50 lighter in terms of the excess.

Why stop there!? Fill the back with some helium baloons!

Did know a guy with a similar problem - he opened up the dash and cut the ABS light, then wired it into the engine management light. When you stick the keys in everything seems normal, all the lights go on briefly then go out - but the ABS was still knackered. I'm not advocating using this to pass an MOT test, just saying that it's possible.

Depending on where you are there might be a member around with VAG-COM that could scan the electronics in the car and tell you exactly why the light came on. If you already have a reader, the connection is about knee height on the left if you're sitting in the drivers seat. Pull out the can holder, then pull it out completely and you should find the connector behind. Other than that a quick trip to a garage to diagnose the problem may be your best bet.

Ah ha! Metered Smoke Test (Diesel) The metered smoke test has been conducted in EU countries for many years. During this test, a calibrated smoke meter is used to assess the density of the smoke from compression ignition (diesel) engined vehicles. The engine will be accelerated up to governed speed and the smoke density measured. Note the bold text above - it will be pushed to the limiter. (source: http://www.dvtani.gov.uk/uploads/customerservices/DieselandCATleaflet.pdf)

Nope, there isn't a CO2 test for diesels, only petrols. The only emmisions test that has to be passed for the VRS is to check that there isn't an excessive amount of particles thrown out the exhaust (in other words, it isn't too sooty). I'm not entirely sure how they test it, but they'll need to rev the engine somewhat for it I'd imagine. Whether that means red line or not is beyond me! :confused:

When I got mine from eBay at the start of the year I got a £5 HPI check from the RAC. They aslo give you a £5000 guarantee so that if they miss something that you later find out about (ie. it turns out to be stolen or have outstanding finance) you can claim 'damages' of a sort - Car history report by RAC You'll need the Reg plate, VIN and identification number and issue date of the V5 for a complete check. HTH