newskoda
-
Posts
809 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Shop
Events
Downloads
Posts posted by newskoda
-
-
My vRS is coming is now 7 years old and done 100K. Been considering changing the springs and shocks in all 4 corners and i know thats an expensive job but I want to look after my car. If i'm changing it them i'd want original Skoda shocks and springs and no aftermarket stuff.I know this is a difficult question to answer but generally how long do springs and shocks last for? and are they likely to wear out after 7 years? is it a good investment to get done now? my car's taken quite a beating as one year of that was spent driving over Beirut bypass full of craters and huge pot holes that were so bad that a lorry once fell into it when it snowed.Luckily don't need to go that way anymore.But still i think the old girl suffered.
-
cheers
But don't the powerflex ones cause increase vibration?
-
I decided its about time I gave my vRS some TLC. Been neglecting it for a while.
I want to replace the front anti roll bar bushes. Can anyone tell me how easy a job this is and what parts i'll need?
I'm assuming I need to first get two ARB bushes, but do i need new bolts? that special VW grease? or is copper grease ok.
-
I checked. It's called Fuchs TITAN SINTOFLUID SAE 75W-80 synthetic manual transmission fluid. I bought it in April 2010. At the time it was something like £8+VAT per litre from Opie. It is very good in cold weather as I found you don't get any balking in lower gears. I will most likely choose it again the next time around.
-
Performance wise on a vRS it will do very little if anything.
It is supposed to be a cleaner fuel so it will be kinder on your fuel filter. I've tried the super diesel stuff and run it for a a couple of tank fulls then gone to empty and then gone back to normal diesel. I didn't notice any difference in performance. Hard to tell if it smokes less so that test is out.
-
I've tried a few but will need to check the spec of the one I have in there now as its the best one I've used so far.Will post back once I verify it.
-
I prefer the OEM look with the actual arm.Looks much nicer imo.
-
Does anyone know it the front wishbone bushes ever need replacing and if so is it recommended to buy the whole wishbone including the bushes or just get a pair of bushes? any idea of part number and cost?
I may get my Ibiza Cupra Console Bushes (part#6LL 407 183) replaced also at same time if I decide to do the front ones. Or should I go with the new/improved Skoda ones? I did hear somewhere that Skoda had manufactured a better,stronger version of the original console bush and it has an additional spoke in the bush. It's apparently also more comfy than the Ibiza one.
-
4 parts water to 1 part white vinegar and a lint free/microfibre cloth
-
The galaxy s II and iPhone 4 are great.
The blackberry torch is touchscreen and has physical buttons.
Go prod a few, and not the display ones, get mr salesman to get some out of boxes. You'll feel the weight, quality and how good or bad the touchscreens are. When you see screen details the iPhone has one called a retina display, this is because the human eye can't see individual pixels as they are so small, so the display is excellent.
Are you into music?
iPhone using Tapatalk
hey, thanks for your advice.I'll ask them to show me the phones.
I'm not that into music these days, but I do listen to mp3 podcasts and stuff like that.
-
I'm due for an upgrade soon and appear to have a choice from different phones ranging from Iphones, HTC, Samsung, Sony-Ericsson,Blackberrys (Bold, curve..these have normal QUERTY peypads) and Nokias. A lot of these are touch screen smart phones and I have never owned such a thing before. My current phone is a non smartphone sony ericsson and i've been using normal tactile keypads on phones what seems like forever. It;s been ok but the last few SE's i've had, the keypads have dropped off and I've had to replace them. Quality of Sony Ericsson has gone down in the last 5 years imo.
I have no interest in using facebook or twitter but these seem to be major selling points. I have read somewhere that Cisco have joined with Google apps which I presume means that Cisco will have various deployments available on Android enabled phones. This could be a useful thing for me. If anyone uses any Cisco apps on their phones then would like to know which ones?
What i am mostly after is reliability, excellent call/voice quality, good camera, maps and easy to text on. Oh and erm....are these touch screens reliable? they look kinda fragile. Sorry if I come across technically illterate with phones. I just haven't got a clue.
thanks
-
I'm currently running the usual 165bhp map with standard air delivery set up. (Pd130 intake, paper filter)
Is anyone else doing this or should free up some air?
yes i run a similar remap but I thought if you try to free up more air using a bigger intake and a "performance" filter you would need a custom remap and ideally tuned on a rolling road to get it right.
-
I have them on the rear of the Polo. Noticed they seemed a bit quieter and smoother than the previous disks, but they were rusted all over the surface (the braking surface had rubbed off). Seem the stop the car equally well though.
One thing I would notice - the bit of the disk that the wheel nuts go through (the bit that points into the air if you lay the disk flat, if that makes sense?) has rusted, and looks awful! The pagids up front haven't done this though. I guess you could paint that bit though, if it's visible through your wheels/annoys you.
cheers, yes i know the section you mean.Raised edge through the middle for the bolts.There's a 15% offer on at eurocarparts so may as well take advantage this month.
-
I need to change my rear discs and pads. I've heard pagid are a good brand obviously but seen Eurocarparts sell eicher rear discs at £12each. anyone know if this brand is anygood and whether it really matters much what you have on the rear?
-
the halford kit stops leaks in seals and pipes, damage to the condensor is usually through stone damage so the stop leak kit is unlikely to fix it
also i believe it is illegal now to regas a system you know to leak,
yes spot on. As releasing the gas into the atmosphere knowingly is illegal.
-
Had my air con serviced+regassed last year by skoda and it was ok for a few months then this spring tried the air con and it felt more like someone blowing air onto me than the real deal. I plugged VCDS in and got a reading of air pressor sensor fault.
Had someone come have a look at it and they said its leaking from the condensor (he checked it what looked like and sounded like a toner probe/fox and hound) and he pointed to what i thought was the radiator at the front.The condensor sits in front of the rad and takes up the same space. Price to fit new condensor and regas quoted £270.
I declined for now as i dont have enough money
I know next to nothing about air con in cars. Does all of this sound plausible?
-
As with every other car I've ever seen, it's only one per wheel.
I did think that too but i'd thought i'd clarify it. Unfortunately i can't physically check mine this week :-(
-
does anyone know whether on the vRS(05 plate) the original wheel bolts(all 5 per wheel) need to be removed/fitted using the locking wheel nut key? or is it just one of the bolts that fit the key and the others are just easily removable?
-
Just remove it and clean it off with brake fluid and the refit.
-
Not rude at all - i use Quantum oil in my cars to 507.00 standard.
I am just interested if any actual tests etc have been done to prove that an engine or turbo lasts x amount of miles more having an oil change every 5k vs every 20k. Lots of people say you should but on what basis? How do they know how much the oil degrades per 1k etc to say change every 5-10k/12 months when VW and the manufacturers of the oil state differently?
I have seen these type of results in different situations. Sometimes on a new vehicle whether it was a car or HGV the company has asked for oil testing to be done regularly and over time even as early as 2-3 months you start seeing drops in performance (measured in centistokes).At this point oil at 40 degrees and 100 degrees falls outside of the specifications. Results of this could be the oil doesn't flow as well as it did in cold temps,compared to when it was first put in. An oil that doesn't perform as well as it originally just after a few months won't offer as much protection and they'll be shearing. I remember seeing the reports on this and there would be various metals which actually came from the engine and just after a few months use. It would be even worse after 12 months use.
What also prompted me to change my oil frequently was seeing these results and also i had analysis done on my own engine oil just a few months after it was put in and had only seen about 5k miles.
Don't get me wrong, current synthetic oil is very good and it is so much better than say 10-20 years ago. They resist sludging better for example. Car manufacturer's state things like "You should change your air filter every 20k" or your "fuel filter every 24k". I've seen the state of a fuel filter after two years...they can even go rusty.
Then i've seen posts on here showing the pictures of their air filters that have been in their car for just 12 months and its tangled up with dead leaves,insects and is no longer the color it was when it first went in. If car manuals stated things like you must change your oil+filter every 3 months and do your air filters twice yearly, i don't think the average joe who just wants to get from a to be would be impressed. They'd say sod that i want a car where i just see a visit to the average once a year or two years even better.
-
Vag have tested it and endorsed it. .
I do agree with you on starting and stopping your car and having a cool off period, especially important for turbos petrol or diesel. A lot of factors can affect how long an engine and turbo lasts but i believe that regular oil changes, using good quality fuel are high on the list. New fresh oil is also less susceptible to VI change which is important.
I hope I don't come across rude but just want to clarify that saying "VAG have tested it endorsed it" isn't entirely accurate. There is a difference between Meeting VW504/507(adheres in this case to 5w30 petrol and diesel and PD) or VW505.01 (good old 5w40 for turbo diesel engines including PD) specification and being "Approved By VW" for those specific manufacturer standards.
Slightly Off topic sorry but just to clarify there are only very very few oil manufacturers that make the VW504/507/505.01 oil that is officially approved by VW and they are Motul,Morris lubes and Quantum although to be honest the former two are better spec'd oil. To be approved by VW you have to go through far more vigorous testing vy VW in germany, than "meeting" those specs.
For example Fuchs xfe pd 5w40 s/s and Titan GT1 f/s is not approved by VW. Nor is either Castrol Edge 5w30 or 5w40 which is surprising but a fact, but they like many off the shelf base oil and lubrizol packages do just meet the spec
-
I can't see the point of changing the oil every 3 months :wonder:
I used to work within a technical capacity for fuel and lubricants(this included oil analysis after x amount of miles) and have learnt from experience there is plenty of reason to change oil every 3 months despite what the claims suggest. I also still can get branded quality oil at very low prices..cost.
I could get into a whole debate on the subject and talk about base oils,esters and PAO's, additive packages,VI, flashpoints and viscosity change at specific temperatures and of course approvals (this one isn't as cut as dry as the labelling suggests) but will leave that alone.
-
Every weekend for the last 3 years i've been doing a 120mile run and back again, mostly motorway. And usually when people are asleep in bed or just brushing their teeth. The trip computer reports between 54mpg and 62mpg and it all depends of course on how heavy my right foot is. If i'm careful and stick to between 65-75mph then i will get into the 60's mpg. If I do 80+ then i get 54mpg Which is still very good. Again according to the trip computer but overall on a full tank i see anything between 420-500 miles.
-
When I had a petrol non turbo car i used to use super unleaded (shell, total, bp) and didn't notice any gains in economy or performance.
I've now had my vRS since 2008 and was religiously filling up with BP Ultimate but over the last few months i've been using regular diesel from shell and have noticed slightly better economy and it seems to accelerate better on it. It will no doubt run cleaner using a higher cetane based fuel but to be honest given the fact i change my engine oil every 3 months and give it a shot of forte twice a year(which i find gives excellent results), i can't see the point of using a higher cetane rated fuel.
I used to think it was a good thing using v power and the like but think you can better value for money with regular maintenance.
Advice buying a Fabia
in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)
Posted
I already own a vRS so the advice I need isn't for me but for a friend. he wants to buy a 1.2 or 1.4ltr Fabia and has seen (not physically seen it yet..just the advert from a dealer) a 2005 1.2 12v sport model which has done 80k and had two owners.has FSH. I don't know that much except about my vRS but can anyone tell me if this 1.2 Sport 12v 5dr Fabia sounds OK for £2500? when would the cambelt need doing?
was this particular model reliable or should he be looking at something else?
he;s a first time buyer (but over 35 years old) although is looking for something sensible and reliable and cheap to insure.
I appreciate your help.