karlbar2k

On my mk1 4x4 that was originally on 205 55 16s I was running 15 inch pepperpots with 195 65 15s to keep the rolling circumferen. On the mk2 scout the standard size is 225 50 17 so what sizes are people running for their winters? I was always led to believe that winters should be narrower to help deal with slush and I firmly believe modern cars are getting ridiculously over tyre'd more and more. So i was thinking 215 55 17 or 215 60 16 if getting different rims though it ot sure if there is a 16 inch equivalent of the 15 inch Audi pepperpots which we're incredibly light and strong being forged not cast. That said 225 50 17 winters seem to be reasonable prices.. Don't see why 205 shouldnt be a possibility either as the haldex really does work well and makes up for the reduced width.

I dont see why 205 shouldnt be an option either as the haldex really makes up for the reduction in tyre width very well. Never had issues with loss of traction in the mk1 and that was running 220bhp and 22psi peak boost

On my mk1 4x4 that was originally on 205 55 16s I was running 15 inch pepperpots with 195 65 15s to keep the rolling circumferen. On the mk2 scout the standard size is 225 50 17 so what sizes are people running for their winters? I was always led to believe that winters should be narrower to help deal with slush and I firmly believe modern cars are getting ridiculously over tyre'd more and more. So i was thinking 215 55 17 or 215 60 16 if getting different rims though it ot sure if there is a 16 inch equivalent of the 15 inch Audi pepperpots which we're incredibly light and strong being forged not cast. That said 225 50 17 winters seem to be reasonable prices..

Any links to the oil ash and emissions fixes as I have vcds. and haldex, and four wheel alignment were already on the list of things to check along with checking the battery and alternator when I get 5 mins. not the best alloys they've ever used are they. More like lexus alloys than VAG. on the subject of alloys is the pcd on the mk2 5/112? I ran my mk1 on 15" Audi Pepperpots

Today I bought a 2011 2.0 TDi Scout in Maroon with a comprehensive history and recent cambelt and waterpump 143K on the clock so there are going to be things that need fixing/fettling so just need to resist the urge to map until I know its straight. What things are most likely going to bite me in the 4ss and need looking at first. Not 100% if its a PD or CR? the log book says CR but HPI is showing it as 155 g/km which I thought was the PD?

just to add the bottom end of the PCV system has a big one way valve that gets caked in cr4p, I stripped and cleaned mine but at a lot less than 170K

OK where to start? firstly Bosch Super 4s are cr4p - especially on LPG (despite what your LPG converter might tell you) the only plugs you should use with LPG are the NGK BKR7e (colder plug with solid coper core) and if you are running with a remap then you gap them a bit tighter AT 170K there are a million little things that might need replacing in the VAC and Boost lines of which there are plenty. the big Y-pipe being the most obvious and everything else that touches the inlet manifold including PCV/one way valves/and the weird little "suction jet pump" as its called rough idle raising and falling is classic VAC leak so test by spraying a little bit of carb cleaner in and around the vac lines, if the engine note rises then you sprayed a VAC leak, fix that bit of pipe and then try again. Ideally if your not mechanically minded get a garage to Smoke test the boost and vac lines for you - if you are then there are videos on youtube to build your own testers if you fit a boost/vac gauge its a great help in identifying issues if you look through my history there are lots of boost and vac related issues that I had when I have my 1.8T 4x4

thought I would post an update that might help others fix was cam and followers... one of the followers was hollowed out really bad and the CAM lobes were worn. surprising as it was a full MD service history too?? not a cheap repair but car has now been passed on to no:1 daughter as her car didnt have isofix :-)

Ok. I still have black smoke so it's either too much fuel or not enough air... as well as smoke under load it also get a lot of vibration around 2k revs, more so than at lower revs, DMF or misfire due to overfueling? no boost leaks or vac leaks, have logged turbo in vcds and whilst at low load it's slightly less than spec, if you press on a bit then boost is matching actual and holding ok (but smokes like a chimney at the same time) so the turbo is working, as previously mentioned the actuator etc has been tested as well Disconnect maf - still smokes but I would have thought a maf with dirty wire would read less air than actually going in which would lead to a lean condition not overfueling? The erg has been cleaned recently so possible the intake is blocked up, I have a nice clean replacement just not got around to fitting it yet. Would a badly blocked one cause symptoms I am seeing? Had the rocker cover off and the cam looks good not had multimeter on the injector loom yet but no errors in the logs like others have had when they go bad, but if the resistance were to go high what would the effect be? Would they inject more or less than a loom with low resistance? not had compression tested but if compression were a problem wouldn't I have poor idle as a symptom, which I dont Strating to think it's going to be a duff injector, it's going into the garage tomorrow as I don't have time as need to fix it for mot and to pass on to my daughter. If anyone has any insight it would be appreciated

replace the bottom boost hose and also tested the turbo wastegate actuator (works off boost not vac - uses the same block in the vac pump but its just a pipe routed up from the turbo and then back to the actuator) Still smokey and low on power. not had compression tested but I would have thought that a problem with compression would be apparent at all loads/revs not just under load still need to replace the inlet manifold as I have a nice clean one to go on, but thinking it must be injectors but trying to find a tdi specialist in Yorkshire that I can get it booked into is a nightmare

OK this has been parked up for a while but is now back in use and still smoking under load/incline. replaced the top hose as managed to get a good one cheap - still smokes had the bottom engine cover off and found what I thought was a hole (other thread) but I had a better look today and I don't think its gone through as what I thought was blow by oil vapors looks to have come from the oil feed line.

OK so the oily residue was not from what I thought was a hole. It seems to be coming from a "banjo bolt" coming down off the turbo with a flexi pipe going to the block (Oil feed maybe?) back to the drawing board I guess. the boost pipe is worn from contact though so replacing it wed/thu anyway.

OK so this little Fabia has been parked up for a while but now that the Octy MkI skip is now moved on I have to get it running right. Prior to parking up I replaced the Boost hose that goes to the manifold/EGR as the lugs were really worn but it still smoked a lot under load. Today I got it up on the ramps (not easy when its got no POWER) and found that the boost hose at the bottom has been fouling a lug and has holed, you can see the oily deposits where its been blowing out. Got a replacement on order so should be able to fit Wednesday and hope to see a big improvement.... But the second image shows a spring clip connector that seems to connect to the pipe that goes into/out of? the turbo and its got a small amount of wetting around it. There's not as much muck as from the other hose but is it a common part to fail? (reminds me of the SAI pipes off the 1.8T)

The Skip has found a new home and I am now driving a bright yellow Fabia 3 TDI :-(

This is on Ebay now and finishes Sunday just before 8PM - am truly surprised that there are 40+watchers and no bids yet.. worth more than the starting price just for a handful of the parts. Would like to see it go to someone that is going to keep it running as the 4x4 in a saloon is going to get rarer as time goes on. If I had a pot of cash and a larger drive I would be keeping it, so you all need to hope I don't win the lottery tonight or tomorrow :P http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222567679513?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Lots of Pics as well

Handbrake has been rectified - new Pagid disks and pads to the rear coilpack swapped out and misfires resolved (spark plugs were couple of months ago) £1000.00 as I need it gone.

OK need to get this shifted as my van is coming next week and I already have three other cars on the drive, £1150.00 ono

It is with great sadness that I finally have to get rid of "the skip", I have had this car since 2008 and it has evolved slightly over the years, but work and SWMBO have declared it is time for something newer and a bit bigger (i.e. Van time) I had always planned to eventually get it to a similar spec to the black beast for those forum member that remember but life and work got in the way. "the skip" is a 51 plate that had just under 70K on the clock when I purchased it and is now sat just under 190K but dont let that put you off as with tlc this will still be running at 300K its not be pretty and its not sporty looking having had mudguards removed but its quick and economical The Good: LPG - fully working, I had it fitted back in 2008 so I know the history and no VSR to worry about as the 1.8T is THE best engine to run on LPG Stage 1 remap (DNA Tuning) (KO3s turbo so remaps the same as the VRS) 2.5" Stainless system - not overly loud and pipes are hidden Bilstein B6 shocks Heavy duty springs Audi S3 o2m 6spd gearbox and all necessary parts fitted when the 5spd chocolate box died a good few years ago. Seat Leon LCR subframe with solid bushes and Cast front arms - combined with the 4x4 ends gives more adjustability like a TT Seat Leon LCR Lower Brace TT Upper brace (not fitted but included) Pagid disks and pads all round still 288mm on the fronts due to 15's but I also have the caliper carriers for 312's which I can include if I find them in the garage set of HEL braided stainless brake hoses included but not fitted as I never got round to fitting them. 15" Audi pepperpot alloys with winter tyres all four good tread at full price can also include a set of the original 16" RIDE alloys (tyres not great) OR a set of 16" Audi TT 5 spokes (again tyres not the best) if the 15's are not for you..However anyone that knows my threads will know the 15's are Forged and are the wheels used on the Race Of Champions buggies and also Boba motorsports crazy Mk1 Golf they are also a lot lighter and help both pickup and economy 52 plate golf GT TDI seats which are much more supportive than both the original 4x4 seats and also the VRS seats. These also have the lumbar support and the airbags and being out of a three door makes cleaning much easier. Pioneer aftermarket head unit with Parrot kit built in (including Microphone on door pillar) Boot/Vac guage Definned and extra porting on the air box to stop TIP collapse Hitachi bolt down coilpacks - will include a bag with assorted coilpacks including some spare Hitachi ones NGK spark plugs selection of Mikalor clamps on the Boost pipes Forge copy DV with extra shims All windows treated with G-Teqnic G1 Intercooler front vent increased Intercooler wheel arch mod TDI full engine under tray - improved protection for the sump and improves airflow mudguards removed - improves airflow the brightest reversing lights you will ever see https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/289081-led-reverse-bulbs/#comment-3428957 electric windows all work sunroof works The bad: oil leak - had the rocker gasket replaced 2 years ago but I think it could do with being redone as I dont think its right - I have been topping up oil every couple of weeks smokes occasionally slight misfires occasionally if the plugs need regapping (LPG is more susceptible to misfires so I just change plugs every oil change and regap as and when needed) no rear headrests - I treat it as a work horse and the back seats spend more time down than up anyway. handbrake needs adjustment its done nearly 190K so my next steps would have been Hybrid turbo from BBT with rods and other supporting mods like welly cooler some slight rust bubbles that have appeared and been treated with rust eater - but never cleaned and resprayed central locking gremlins only one key The only time this car ever let me down was when the gearbox blew but this is now replaced with the best box available, I regularly have to travel the length and breadth ofthe country and never worried about it not getting me there. If I didn't need something a lot bigger I would be having the oil leak fixed at the same time as new turbo etc and run it for another 100K as these engines are pretty much bomb proof. £1500-00 and I will include all the spares and also have the Haldex tool (£30) to throw in as well. unless you have a half tidy T4 to swap (preferably with a 1.8T fitted :D) if your interested then message me through here as I would rather see this go to a forum member than have to ebay it. I will try and get some pictures up as well later Karl

doesnt always happen either? can go days without seeing any then big cloud of smoke at the lights. Then nothing again? can a blocked PCV system cause similar as its been about 80k since I cleaned the valve and changed the pipes

its blueish tint so I know its oil just not sure where from. I moved oop north so the missus could be closer to family and my daughter moved up this way too 6 months after so we're taking over if the oct fails the MOT tomorrow you can have first dibs :P

hey David, thats what I was worrying about just had stainless system fitted £££ and first thing that happens after a couple of days is big plume of smoke at the lights :p Missing Cardiff a bit now that I'm all the way up here in Yorkshire. you still running a Mk1 VRS? cant believe I am 10+ yrs with the skip on 183K now and pulls great when the turbo decides its going to boost.

I know the turbo is a bit long in the tooth and is going to need replacing soon but hoping I can old off till after crimbo. Not sure if its oil getting to the exhaust via some route other than the turbo though

pulled up at traffic lights and noticed that the car is smoking when sat there, then give it a rev, puff of smoke then smoke clears, sat at the traffic lights for another minute all OK? so effectively engine is on overrun then idle with smoke, rev it big cloud then idles OK and pulls away with no further smoking? Piston rings maybe?

its on 157K and from the service history I can see that the EGR has been cleaned 5K ago so that looks alright when I had the boost hose off to check, but as they didnt do the manifold I guess that is going to be pretty bad. the car has little or no power so just working through all the bits that need sorting. I would not look at cleaning on the car at all, just wondering if anyone has tried the fire method personally as it looks like it could be fun as well as quick and cheap compared to using chemicals.

what is the favored method? chemical or fire? I guess the best approach is buy a used manifold and new gasket, make sure its fully cleaned then swap out and sell on the manifold? does anyone know the manifold part number on a 80bhp 1.4tdi? is it 045129713F