karlbar2k

much as I lust after the one 2.0TSI 4x4 L&K Estate on autotrader at 35K its just a little bit out of budget looking to limit purchase and LPG conversion to 10k all in so older Superb as not a lot of mk3 Octavia 1.8TSI's fit that budget and they rarely come with heated leather like the elegance spec Superb

for the past few years I have been running my Octavia 4x4 AND an Audi A2 tdi on 15" Audi pepperpots like they use on the ROC Buggies and also BOBA motorsports crazy 1000BHP Golf. Mainly because they are 10lbs lighter than the 16/17s I was using previously and they also improved the ride quality due to increased sidewall (especially on the A2 which was 40 profile rubber bands with sport suspension) Now that I am looking at purchasing a Superb II I am wondering what the wheel options are? Not talking 19's or 20's but going the other way so 17's or 16's as the tyre options are usually a lot better and if there is a forged equivalent to the Pepperpots then the reduction in weight really helps improve economy as well as responsiveness..

Having had the Octavia 4x4 for 10 years and just started a new job that requires a fair bit of driving, I am looking at changing to a newer car (the Octy is looking tired even though it goes really well). I have thought about getting another Octavia but I always liked the look and size of the Superb. what are the main things to check for apart from the obvious like service history etc? Thinking of a 1.8 TSI, possibly a 4x4 if one comes up, don't mind if its manual or DSG so again what to look out for? anyone running one remapped? Obviously considering LPG having had my last 3 vehicles running it but interested if there is anyone here that has done it already? I did see a nice looking 2.0TFSI one but I guess that is possibly an import?

from octavia 4x4 experience the diff oil is supposed to be life of car IIRC I only had to change mine as the garage drained the wrong thing when trying to do the haldex oil change (didnt go there again)

I have something similar in the Octavia, like daytime when I reverse now

Clive at CNTuning knows the full setup and its also listed on Wellys original posts

I fitted the diesel tray on my petrol 4x4 octy and it made a difference of 2-3 MPG vs no tray or the tiny petrol one. as already mentioned the clips are relatively cheap at the dealers so get it fixed

you can use the cast arms and subframe off an LCR on the front end instead of the TT, as they already hav emuch better bushes as standard

hey Bowders, I never noticed any pulsing at all? get a good solid boost and vac reading.. only issue I have is the crap halfrauds plastic T pieces dont last more than a year

mine is UFW

I tapped into the fuel pressure regulator as its one of the easiest to get to, top right of the fuel rail. Make sure the gauge you get does boost and vac as the vac reading is very helpful for noticing leaks as well. Stage one remap on mine and after s lot of replacement pipes it peaks at 20-21psi then drops as the revs climb. Vac at idle is just over 25" at hits the edge of the gauge sometimes on the overrun so nice and leak free

not sure about how many made as they were available in a lot of countries but www.howmanyleft.co.uk is a good resource to see how many are in the uk

mine sits at 3000 rpm at an indicated 80 (71-72 on gps) but it has a 6spd S3 gearbox and with LPG and all the mods on a round trip to London on tuesday I got 80mpgE for a 360 mile round trip with an hour of traffic each way on the London end

OK I remeber where I got the penny drop moment ​http://www.wak-tt.com/vagcom/vagcomamm.htm its the bit in the middle about "Add" and "Mult"

from memory if the first figure is a positive it is adding fuel at idle which indicates a vac leak (only a small one for you but still a vac leak) and the negative figure higher than -10% indicates it is reducing the fueling at higher revs indicating a boost leak (maybe even the same as the vac leak depending on which pipe is split and if it it before a check valve)

I will have to go through my stuff but the two readings are additive and multiple-something so basically idle and revving (vac and boost) give me a minute to find the article

I cant remember if it will go up to block 32 but there are lots of members on the VCDS map with full versions that can help (sometimes for beer )

3 miles should be enough to see it getting close to 90. take it for a longer run and make sure it does get all the way to 90, if not then the stat needs replacing - PITA to do and you need ratchet set with funky angled bit or ratcheting spanners to make it easier. What you need to do is get it scanned by someone with VCDS and measure block 32 which is the fuel trims, they are a great indicator if you have boost and vac leaks which WILL cause poor consumption as well as other issues.

due to the age with most of these 1.8T's (VRS and 4x4) one of the major problems is the perishing of the multitude of pipes associated wit the Boost and Vac. There are lots of posts about the Y Pipe which is the biggest and usually first one to go, time and nocious gases cause them all to go soft and brittle leading to splits which mess with the fuel/air ratio which impact economy and performance. when you start geetting splits in the smaller vac lines they can cause idle issues and they also leak boost. a big thing that gets overlooked is that these cars can be subject to water ingress in a bi way from the smallest of leaks. even though the VRS has a sporty image there are lots of improvements that can be made to the steering and suspension, lots of bits off higher end models with the same floor pan can be used as well as aftermarket bits. So you can source parts from the likes of Golf Mk4 (gti,gttdi,r32) Leon Cupra R especially for the front suspension and steering bits and big fat brembos (but they come at a cost) The 4x4 has very similar front end but back end is independent there are lots of free mods that can make small but useful improvements as well as lots of cheap little things like aero wipers, screen treatments etc that make them a nicer drive Door locks are a PITA but can be fixed If you have to do a window regulator buy a genuine one as the kits can be a nightmare. VRS and 4x4 the seats are pants. but again lots of alternatives available from Golf/Bora/S3/A3/Leon 4x4 styling is more sedated than the VRS so didn't appeal to everyone and they tended to have an easier life than the VRS (until they got bought and modified by Briskodians ) 1.8T in whatever vehicle be it golf, bora, Octavia or even a Lupo :P they are one of the best engines ever on LPG with no worries about soft valves, so you can have a modified car running between 200-250 without turbo 250-??? with turbo and supporting bits like rods etc but half the running costs. Oh and the stereos are SH!T

if you have access to VCDS/VAGCOM get a block 32 reading as that can confirm a vac leak as well

if not that it might be the console bushes. these are the bushes that mount the front subframe to the car..

I wont be happy unless it rolls on 15's when it is finished - if they are good enough for the race of champions and the skip!! as long as the brakes fit obviously - such a long thread I have no idea what the final brakes were :p

the one where he goes to reverse - hilarious

Oh! forgot to add FLAMES if you want a car that spits flames on the overrun then you have to decat

Catalytic convertor is put into the system to convert noxious gases into less harmful ones (hence a catalyst) it adds a restriction to the flow so by removing it the engine can expell the air more easily and produce more power and often improve economy. the MOT test is what stops most people as its a pain to have to keep putting cat section back in just to pass a test, where mine is LPG converted it produces a lot less of the bad gases anyway so if I were to decat mine the MOT would be no problem.