vrs180

That's the wrong grease. You need a "Molybdenum" grease, spec G 000 603 or G000 633.

No special tools are required to replace a 1.8t cam belt, water pump etc... but you will need a decent torque wrench. Best to change the engine mounting stretch bolts though just for piece of mind, I know some people don't and get away with it, but its a gamble and not worth the risk IMO. Only one thing to make sure of, is when you re fit the O/S engine mounting "wing to engine brkt" it goes back in the correct position as per the instructions/details in the workshop manual.

The "C" clip goes onto the outer end of the drive and must be fitted otherwise the drive shaft will pull out of the CV joint. Usually, if the CV joint and drive shaft are pushed together with a little force, then a sharp tap with a copper hammer is all that's needed to compress the "C" clip.

I wouldn't if your going to tow with it. My vrs hatch with std suspension, has 8x18 et35 wheels with 225 40 18 Avon tyres and they rubbed on the outside edge of the rear arches when we put some luggage in the boot. Normally its not a problem, because from new the car has only ever been used as a dry summer day toy and other than the missus, never carries any other passengers, shopping, luggage etc. HTH Bill.

The tuning company is correct, you will see reduced mpg figures after a remap on any turbocharged petrol engine..... if you utilise the extra available power. The reasons why this is, has been known to engineers from as far back as the end of the nineteenth century. Turbocharged petrol engines require an air/fuel ratio that stays within about 7% of mean boost torque (MBT) air/fuel ratio of 12.4:1 (0.85 lambda). Therefore if a tuning company only increasing boost pressure with too little or no increase in fuel then that would cause detonation and destroy the engine. Turbocharged diesels are a different matter, compression ignition engines do not need to sustain a continuous flame front and can operate cleaner and cooler with large air surpluses. HTH Bill. PS my car runs a little over 1.5 bar peak boost and I get much better than 15mpg.

Totally agree with Clive re above. 1.8t's could be a pain after modifications even when new'ish and I don't suppose old age has helped make things any better. Opening specially at xmas to sort this and offering to do it FOC......by far the best customer service and support I've ever come across. Merry Xmas Bill

I replaced the OEM torsion bar bush with a 65 shore (red) powerflex bush to my wife's SE a few months ago. For us it was a big mistake, the car felt much more harsh to drive and it had a horrible vibration on idle which was bad enough to shake the steering wheel. So with nothing to loose I decided to drill the bush, I drilled 2x10mm, 4x8mm and 4x4mm holes through the bush. The difference these holes made is fantastic, the car is smoother and more pleasant to drive than it has ever been.

A few years ago my wife's 06 vrs had similar PAS and electrical problems and proved very difficult to find out the exact cause. I spent lots of time and money trying to resolve it and in the end gave up and sent it into to the Skoda main dealers only to find they too couldn't find the cause of the fault. Things got so bad my wife was in tears and said she didn't want the car anymore, then one day whilst testing the electrics (again) I noticed that the resistance across the small earth lead from the battery to the inner wing had increased and was a little bit warm to the touch. I replaced the lead with a new OEM one and from that moment the problems went away and have never re-occurred. My son now owns the car and it is problem free. HTH Bill.

Next time the bush comes out of the turbine housing (which I think it prob will) try knocking the bush out as far as you can, give it a clean up with wire wool etc then apply some lock tight and knock it back into place. I almost always use lock tight when fitting valve guides and valve seats into cylinder heads and have never had a single one come loose. Even though the turbocharger turbine housing runs much hotter than an air cooled or water cooled cylinder head, from my experience I'd say its worth a try. HTH Bill.

Sorry but that's a common mistake. The N75 function is to bleed off boosted air away from the waste gate actuator in order to close the waste gate and allow the turbo to build boost pressure up to ECM requested values. If you were to take the N75 out of the system altogether ie run a pipe straight from the turbo compressor outlet to the turbo waste gate all that would happen is the waste gate would open once boost pressure builds enough to overcome the waste gate return spring, which in turn would produce very low levels of turbo boost and result in one very slow vRS. HTH Bil

Does anyone have a picture of these 70mm tips fitted to the turbo compressor housing ie; from under the car ? Its been a few years since I experimented with an ABD tip but from what I remember theirs not a lot of space to accommodate an oversize tip without squashing it, which sort of defeats the object, doesn't it ???. Bill.

If you want the best plugs for your car, then you prob wont get better than Denso Iridium IK20's. I use them in my modified (low mileage) vRS and change them every 4 years which for my car is <5K and they come out looking like brand new, even the electrode gap doesn't alter. Only down side they are a bit expensive.

Hi Lloyd If I'm not too late could I have a black catch can with sight glass, minus the logo. Ta, bill.

Looks OK to me. The procedure for adjusting the "Litens" tensioner is turn the tensioner until the pointer is in the middle of the cut out in the back plate and the tighten the lock bolt. On all the ones I've changed the pointer has a tendency to move slightly to the right (clockwise) as you tighten the bolt, however this is normal and to be expected......nothing to worry about. As for the noise, check that the centre cam belt cover is fitted correctly onto/over the tabs, if its not then the aux belt tensioner will catch on it.

It is possible to replace the outer drive shaft CV boots without undoing the hub nuts, I know because I have changed three for family/friends in the last two years. All I do is remove the wheel and undo the bottom ball joint, cut off the old CV boot and put a clamp around the drive shaft. The clamp is tightened onto the solid (narrowest) section of the drive shaft nearest to the hub (I used mole grips for the first one I did but made my own clamp for the other two). Once the clamp is in place an assistant (usually the missus) with the aid of a leaver can put pressure on the circlip by levering between the clamp and the hub. Then use a copper drift and hammer to impact the hub and the drive shaft pops straight out. Once the boot has been replaced the shaft just pushes back into the CV joint and circlip.

I never said a 007P was crap ????? What I think I said , was that in DV performance terms so called uprated DV's offer no advantage over the std DV and in that respect are not worth paying over 3 times more for them. A DV is a very simple valve, it only has 3 ports: 1. Is a charge air inlet port (post turbo, pre TB). 2. Is a signal port (post TB) 3. Is a exhaust port (post MAF, pre turbo) During boost conditions the DV exhaust port (3) needs to be fully closed preventing charged air (1) escaping/leaking back to the turbo inlet. The OEM DV valve is 100% effective at doing this on engines with both std and modified boost pressures, and combined with the fact it has the best reaction/recovery times, IMO makes it by far the best buy. But its your car your money, make your own choices. Bill.

I made my own test rig years ago to test DV's for response/reaction time and leakage. It was made in such a way that two valves could be tested at the same time ie OEM against another. In every test I carried out the OEM valves performance could not be improved upon, and that was the old Bosch valve. Also, on my own car the N75 duty cycle reduced when I changed back from a 007P (fitted with a yellow spring) to a new OEM Kayser DV, which tells me what I already knew from the bench tests I carried out..... some so called uprated DV's leak past the exhaust port. Bill

Don't buy a so called uprated DV, other than the fact they can be serviced (which quite useful) they are IMO a waist of money, and non I've tried work better than OEM. If you order a new OEM DV you will find the part number has changed and so has the supplier (from Bosch to Kayser). The new part number for the Kayser DV is 06A 145 710N. Its supposed to be an uprated version of the original Bosch DV and fitted with a stronger diaphragm and spring and is now fitted as standard across the VAG range. If you check out the Kayser web site they make some very bold claims about this valves strength and reliability ie; its suitable for modified cars up to stage 3. I cant confirm if the above is true or not but what I do know for fact is it works very well on my own 1.8t which boosts to 1.55 bar and recorded 247bhp (peak) last time I took a wrong turn and ended up on some rollers. Bill.

1 - vRS19TD - 2013 Badge - Green on grey - 55mm x 4 2 - Fluffmeister - 2013 Badge - Black on Silver - 80mm x 1, 88mm x 1, 55mm x 4 3 - Zeffania - 2013 Badge - Black on Silver - 70mm x 4 4 - Pee81 - Autobot - Green on black - 80mm x 2, 55mm x 4 5 - dazjenks - OEM - 55mm x 4 6 - nathyp - Retro - silver on black - 80mm x 2 7 - Jambro - OEM minus Green - 55mm x 4, 45mm x 4 - VRS on Black - 55mm x 4, 45mm x 4 8. Cwizzle - 2013 badge 80mm x 2, in carbon? 9. Hutchysrs50 - 2 x standard minus the green for front grill and boot badge 80mm? 4 x 2013 logo with full black background and all red center in alloy wheel size 55mm? Will pm. 10. Travs - OEM - All green replaced with Red - 2 x 80mm 4 x 55mm (Fabia Mk1) 11. VRSmiiike - (MK1 FAB) VRS logo wheel centers, retro front and back badges but with the center "creature" green please! 12. fabia93 - Retro - 80mm (Silver on Black) x 2 - VRS logo on black 55mm x 4 13. vrs180 - 4 x 80mm and 4 x 55mm, all OEM minus the green please

If you wanted to get Skoda on side with this project....then how about 4x4 + 400bhp + zero emmisions ie; run it on hydrogen (H2 or LH2) ??? Skoda would prob be all over it then. Total respect to you Richard and Jabbasport for commissioning and undertaking such a project. By the looks of things Jabbasport are doing a fantastic job of squeezing everthing into such a small space, and at the same time openly demonstrating to a wide audience a very high level of engineering skill and technical ability. Bill.

Hi Cliff Got my badges and really pleased with them Thank you Bill.

Hi If I'am not too late, please can I have the following. 2x80mm & 4x60mm all OEM minus the green. Ta

The battery earth lead (the short lead that goes from the battery negative terminal to the N/S inner wing) can also cause the problems you describe. Dont be fooled by the fact it may look to be as good as new, they can develope a problem which causes a very high resistance under load. The new VAG replacement is a re-designed/improved lead.

You really need to get to the bottom of why the turbo turbine housing has cracked in the first place ??? otherwise any replacement will prob just do the same. My guess would be either, high EGT's caused by over fueling or cracked because the engine has been repeatedly shut down without allowing enough time for the turbo to cool down.

Fitting a 9mm gasket will not cause the EGR to leak oil....its a carp designe and they all seem to leak oil after a while. The EGR on my sons car lasted 70k, the se has done 27k and the EGR is still working OK and not passing oil. Turning the EGR down via vag com will not bring on the warning light due to the fact the emissions value the ECU looks for via the exhaust probe is also reduced.