cmcm789

Do you have a screen shot of the figures once the DPF regen finishes? My 1.6 starts regen at 88% and will burn off continuously, if uninterrupted, until it drops to about 5g of soot (which I think is about 20-25%). It would only reach 95%+ if I stuck with slow town driving all the time, and by then the DPF light on the dash would come on. Maybe yours isn't getting a full regen which would trigger shorter distances between? Although I see sense in the point above that as the oil ash increases the DPF will regen more frequently due to less capacity. For info, I have 80k on the clock and the normal mileage between regens is about 420-440 miles.

My 1.6TDI will regen regularly. I don't do long journeys and find that if fully cleared it is good for another 400+ miles before it reaches the threshold. I know when it's carrying out a regen when it is idling at 950/1,000rpm when it really shouldn't. Also, it gets very lumpy under acceleration especially at low revs (almost like dirt in fuel) as the car over fuels. And, the fan will be on after every journey. If the car cannot sort itself out then you will get a light on the dash. Following a light coming on, car in limp mode and a £200 forced regen in the first few months of ownership, I invested in the OBDII Bluetooth adapter (£13 off ebay/ amazon) and the android app (about £3.00) so that I can keep an eye on it. It shows the level of soot in the DPF and loads of other details. When the level of soot reaches 88% the car will start a regen and the exhaust temp rises from 200 to over 500 degrees (when the car is up to speed). if at this point I drive for 6 or 7 miles at about 50-55mph in 5th gear the soot will burn off and the regen will cease at about 20-25%. Then I know I have another 400 miles before it happens again. If the car reaches mid 90s% without successfully clearing itself then the light on the dash will come on. This used to happen me quite a bit. If your car is in a regen and you stop or your speed drops it will stop the regen. With my car this was happening all the time (due to driving style) before I bought the adapter. I would def recommend the app. Don't know why the dash display can't include this!. One other thing to note and probably the most important is that you need about 1/4 of a tank of fuel to ensure the car will start the regen. As it is so fuel intensive it won't trigger with too little fuel. You won't know until the light comes on and even then if you drive the duration at the right speed, I don't think the car will get the exhaust temp up high enough. This is what happened my and it was a very expensive lesson.

I had an EGR delete through a remap a while ago now as I didn't want to have to pay £500-£600 when it failed. Someone may correct me here, but I believe the EGR also helps the engine get up to temperature quickly. As such since the remap my car takes for ever to warm up and it's only when it's at operational temperature that the MPG start to improve. So I have noticed a colder more rattly car for the first 20mins of driving (moreso on colder mornings) along with a drop in my long term average MPG. On the plus side, the remap has improved the performance from 2,000 rpm upwards with the car now pulling strongly to the red line. Prior to the remap it seemed to almost flatline at 3,000rpm and didn't inspire confidence when overtaking.

My 2010 SE estate had issues with the radio randomly turning itself off/ on. Happened for a long time and i read that it could be to do with the iginition swith/barrel. I didn't fancy replacing it just for the radio and got used to the odd itteruption. Funny thing is it seemed to sort itself out and hasn't happened in months, perhaps the last year. Due to change the car anytime now so not that bothered if it happens again. With it being intermittent i put iot down to an elelctrical connection.

Just what im thinking at the moment.

Although it didn't say in the description about sat nav, it was listed as a SE L. So agree with earlier comment if its being described as SE L then it should have the card as that is standard equipment. It has 2 sd slots in glove box.

I've just put a deposit down on a 2015 SE L which I thought had sat Nav. On the test drive I tried it and it said something like "please insert data medium with valid Navigation Data. The salesman said it was likely that they had the SD card in the office. When I looked at the advert again it didn't mention Sat Nav. If they don't have a Card What do I need to do to have the Sat Nav activated? I'm concerned as my current SE (2010) has a button which says "Phone" but when I looked at the time it was going to be another £300-£400 to have the thing hard wired and activated for Bluetooth. Thanks.

When the retractable parcel shelf in my mk2 estate is pulled out fully it will make a noise.

Thanks Gabbo. Don't know about the water pump. Car im looking at has 38k miles from an independent garage. Will ask about work history and maybe phone the previous skoda dealer where it was serviced. Not sure about the boom but i know the suspension on my mk2 1.6 was awful noisy from new. My old mk1 was so quiet but i put some of it down to going from hatch to estate (less to block the noise). Car is being sold with 6 month warranty.

I'm considering changing my 2010 1.6TDi for a 2015 2.0TDI and was wondering what issues I might expect. My main concern is the EGR and Clutch/ Flywheel, but would be interested to find out if there are other problems I should look out for. In the 1.6 I have the EGR mapped out, but that causes other issues with taking an age to heat the car and having more of a diesel clatter on cold mornings. My clutch release bearing is on it's way out and has been for the past year (80k on the car now). I have also been looking at the 1.4TSI but estates are few and far between and they are more expensive than the 2.0 TDI (over my budget). Thanks.

What output is your 1.6? I have the 2010 with the 105bhp engine and a remap bringing to about 145 at a rough guess (going by RR figures from same tuner of other 1.6TDI CRs). I would recommend a good remap. Most of my driving is around town but on the odd occasion I have to overtake the car really pulls well from 3,000rpm and continues right through. I was used to an old 1.9TDi (110bhp) with tuning box and plenty of mid rev grunt so the standard 1.6 lacked the top end pull. Driveability is exactly the same and no difference noted with the mpg when using same driving style. Not sure about the new engine, but I know there were problems with the older EGRs failing and costing a lot to replace. I've had mine blanked off with the remap so it won't cause that issue, but no EGR means the car takes longer to warm up which is noticeable on cold days.

Hi Chris, what is the thrust bearing, and should I be worried (i.e. get it sorted urgently)? Thanks

Lately (past few months) I have noticed that there is a bit of resistance when I press the clutch from the biting point down and back up. Almost like a gritty type feedback. Also, there is a noise which has developed and become more noticeable as time has gone on. the noise is like a dull knocking from the engine direction and more prominent when I have the clutch fully to the floor or on the biting point when taking off from standstill. I had thought it may have been something brought on by the colder weather but not so sure. Car is 1.6CRTDI with 70+k miles Any thoughts? Colm

Cheers Jon. Do you know if it's a big job? what price is a new ignition switch? Thanks Colm

I took it to my mechanic who had experienced the same issue with an audi years ago. Himself and another mechanic put it on the lift and worked at it from behind the radiator. A long arm (and possible pliers?) and lots of scrapes later and they were able to locate the cable and release it by hand. They said there is just enough room behind the radiator to get a hand up behind the bonnet catch. Just as well, as he said the next option was to take an angle grinder to the bonnet!! Good luck with it.

Lately the radio in my 2010 Octy has started playing up. The most common problem is that after I turn on the ignition, the radio will turn itself off after a few seconds only for me to have to turn it on again. The the other day I went to get into the car and found the radio was on even though I had only unlocked the car and the key had been placed in the ignition. I read on another thread somewhere that the SD card may cause the radio to turn on on it's own due to expansion/ contraction, but that doesn't explain it turning off randomly. I would appreciate if anyone has any ideas?

I had thought in the past that I could give the car a good blast, keep the revs high and low gear (50+mph) which should heat up and force any soot out, but after getting the app I've changed my mind. Spirited driving will clear out the engine of any build up, but this will find it's way into the DPF. If (and this is highly likely) the exhaust is not at 500 degrees, all that will happen is the DPF will fill more quickly. Even if there are a few moments of regen during this period, it may not be enough to clear what has just been deposited, so no overall benefit. I think the most efficient way to keep the engine clear and the DPF is to wait until it's nearly Active regen time, go for a spirited run to clean the injectors etc and then when the ECU decides to regen, go for a steady drive in 4th gear.

I bought the full version and it's great. My car was sitting around the 20-22g level the past couple of days and the active regen kicked in. But because of short journeys it didn't get any better. This morning en route to work the DPF warning light came on so I found a dual carriageway and sat at 60mph in 4th gear (2100-2200 rpm) and the soot started clearing at a rate of up to 1700mg/min. Really handy to know what the rate of soot removal is so as to cater my driving style for best results. I think the DPF in/out temperatures were around 500+ celcius. The thing I don't understand is that when the soot level hit around 5.5 and the light went off, the temperature dropped over the next few miles to about 170-200 degrees C. I was still in 4th gear 2100rpm and 60mph and the active soot reading was around +25mg. Obviously as it was no longer an active regen, the ecu had stopped over fuelling and possibly some other things it does. But..... how on a daily journey would my car ever carry out a passive regen. What conditions would be needed to passively regen?

I was using Torque Pro but the information for DPF wouldn't populate. I found this app today and tried the free version (as recommended) to make sure it was compatible. I have the same screenshot as above and I think it's a useful tool to know when my car is due a regen and just to keep a track on what level the soot is at. Although I may purchase the full version as mine keeps timing out (disconnecting) after about 10 seconds. Does anyone know what soot (g) level triggers the regen? Going by what I found in mine it must be about 20g for the 1.6TDI.

Completely off topic, but Pets at Home are currently doing an offer on DNA tests for dogs (yes you read that correctly) for £40. I have been looking online for a couple of months and could not find them for less than £60. Offer started end of November, not sure how long it will last. I have a 6 month old rescue pup and just ordered one of these to find out what breed(s) she is to know what to feed her, exercise and what illnesses she may be prone to in later life.

I have a 2010 SE estate on standard 15in alloys. Currently I have 205x60x15 tyres, which I have found are not a common size and hence more expensive. Can I replace these with the alternate sized 195x65x15 on the current SE rims? The 195 seems to be an option for the car and more garages stock it (cheaper too). I am guessing these are the standard sized tyre for the greenline or S trim? Obviously if I were to change it would a full axle.

Do the pads give an audible indication (squeal) when they are down to needing changed? there is now a band of about 10mm of rust round the outer edge of my discs where the pad is no longer in contact and it looks like grooves are starting to appear in the disc (will need discs too). Just wondering do I go ahead and change pads and brakes now, or wait till I hear squealing. I thought there was a metal strip of some sort embedded in pads near the end to let you know. Also, does anyone know what size of discs are on a 2010 1.6 CR TDI (rear)? I am looking on Euro Car Parts and they have 2 different sizes available for my car. Thanks

When searching for any reports on whether or not the emission fix had affected cars I found this: http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/news/volkswagen-emissions-scandal/four-cases-of-vag-ea189-emissions-fix-failing-on-tiguan-20tdis/ Couldn't find much on any other models affected yet. I had thought some of those car magazines would have been keen to do before and after comparisons of power/torque and drivability.

In Northern Ireland political disagreements over such things as the Welfare Reform have resulted in financial penalties which has had the knock on effect of budget cuts. Within the Department looking after the roads that has meant No money for structural maintenance of roads or routine activities over the past few years. Grass cutting programmes, gully emptying etc have all stopped and only the worst potholes are being repaired. Due to this Contractors have had to lay of staff. On top of this the Civil Service is downsizing and Transport NI (Roads Authority) have lost about 25% of staff. It used to be that rural roads (low traffic, low importance) were surface dressed on a rolling programme. Now due to a complete lack of funds it seems the rural roads will be left and what ever money is about will be used on the main arterial routes of greater significance. It's worrying that surface dressing will be seen as the solution to keep these roads maintained. So we are in the position in this country that we do not have the funds to maintain our roads nor the staff to supervise the works on the ground should any money become available. The only way to get rid of surface dressing or to look into some improvement is if it comes from the very top down and there is a joined up approach between all the Roads Authorities. I don't like the side effects of surface dressing, but I'm even less of a fan of Jet Patching. Now that is cheap and nasty!

Is it even worth having it done? I'm considering getting mine remapped at the moment, and if it's not a compulsory fix then I would be tempted to refuse it.