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..,Tis a bit steep seeing as the cover and two clips can be purchased on the "Bay" for around £20 brand new!

Two clips is correct. Have a closer look as it may have been pushed to one side or even fell under the carpet/mat. They can be a pain to locate properly so be sure the filter is pushed in properly and it should be possible to slide both clips in their place.

The funny thing there is, I am in accord when it comes to using these kits... The point I made seems to be overlooked by what may or may to be technical/physical forces on the pins and not that I disagreed with Spartacus66's suggestion of fitting a used part over and above using the kit. I still stand by my post stating the pins must prevent the caliber from being thrown off, even if my technical description was flawed. To that, they MUST take some stress/strain. But I digress... To the OP, Togston, the tool/kit is most likely exactly what you need and is much easier to do the job, then removing/refitting the whole knuckle. If I managed it and you can use a socket set and drill, along with jacking equipment, so can you. Good luck.

You could be right but when you remove the pins, you can then remove the caliper so they must be under some sort of force when braking... The pins go through the caliper, in to the knuckle so they must prevent the caliper from being "Thrown" Off the knuckle.

With respect, I agree with Sepulchrave... The inserts I recommended and used, fit into a tight hole, with threadlock and actually go in th opposite side of the hole so as to be damn well near impossible to pull right through. The threads would strip first and the pin would pull out the thread and this is more likely in the cast metal, then the stainless insert! I would worry MORE about using a Helicoil insert on a spark plug, which if failed, would knack the engine, then the unlikely event of one of these brake pin inserts failing. If you actually look at the rotating force of the brake disc against the steel pin and see how slim the pin is, then think of the weight of the car and the speed it may be travelling, you would think the brakes are going to fail every time they are applied but they don't! Any company selling these tools/kits would be liable for a massive lawsuit if they were failing and causing accidents/deaths. They are designed, tried and tested and allowed to be used. I would also worry more about a used steering knuckle from a salvage car as the vehicle may have travelled many miles and been on the road for years, with no way of knowing the provenance of the part fitted. (And I don't worry much about that)!

Did it rain prior to this happening?

Check the fuel receipt and be sure it was diesel... I don't believe in coincidences! Nor do I!

Fault display If there is a fault in the instrument cluster Error will appear continuously in the display. Ensure the fault is rectified as soon as possible by ŠKODA a specialist ga- rage. I copied that from an online manual. Hopefully, someone else here might be able to help you either code it out and see if it returns or decide what the fault is... It may also be in relation to a newer model.

Togston, if you look at the thread/post I created, there are two types of tool... One has a drill bit larger then standard and then, thicker threaded caliper pins. (Same outside diameter). The other has a smaller drill bit, screw-in inserts and then you re-fit your standard (M9) sized caliper pins. I used the later, thinking if ever I had that new thread strip, I could always either try a new insert or get the other tool, and have thicker (M10) Threaded caliper pins. Also, I found a supplier who had such a competitive price, it was around half the price of the replacement pins. The supplier is named in the thread/post so should be really easy to find. There is an eBay seller who has also listed a newer, lower price of only £13, delivered, along with a basic guide to use the tool so better still!

Can you guide us to the youtube clip?

Not in red, though as you'll look like Postman Pat!

...Follow the "Clean the screen" Advise and be sure to use a good quality windscreen wiper. Bosch have the correct front AND rear fitment for Fabis's and are reasonably cheap fro places such as EPC or CP4L, when using a discount code on the inter web. Oh, and make sure the interior of the screen is clean, too as it will just highlight the issue. Use the A?C all year round, if possible as it helps to keep the screen clearer then just the warm, blowed air!

Perhaps change the battery in the remote, so as to give a nice clear, clean signal as it may be as old as the car. I hope it is just the key but then, does the spare just open the car or will it physically run the car? You can sometimes get what is known as a valet key, which will open the car and I think, turn the electrics on but it will not start the engine as it will have no transponder/immobiliser. Oh, I just re=read the post and you said "...When the engine was turned on...", so you must have a fully functioning key, albeit no remote.

I am unsure of any of that but I know I had an issue with my wipers some years back, where the mechanic discovered corrosion on the terminals of what I believe to be the item you mean. They cleaned them up as best as they could and the unit was then working fine. They did advise that if it went again, it may be a replacement issue but it has remained working ever since. So it may just be worth having a good look at its connectors.

I think the gear linkage mentioned, was an issue on some Polo's etc so may well be an issue here, if they share components! I thought it would be on older vehicles, though! Hopefully if its a real damage, it'll be the clutch, not the gearbox as thats cheaper.

Very minor blistering just under the trim that holds the window weather seal but thats it, for me on my (09) Fabia. It actually bubbles through the trim, so to speak, not below it on the door. I had thought of cleaning/treating it and perhaps fitting those chrome stainless window trims you see on some cars.

They look very well lit and photographed/photoshopped trims that will almost certainly look less, in the flesh (Or plastic).

Ahh, yes... Think of the melted trousers and burnt leg! Never been a fan of the high-up exhaust pipes! They have a Mutt place near me. Some bits look nice, others iffy. Don't like the brown saddle for a start. As for Chinese, they are set to own the world of motorcycles, like Japan did back in the late seventies/early eighties! The quality is coming along in leaps and bounds. An early Chinese imported by a farmer, in a crate (The machine, not the farmer) model of five years ago simply cannot compare with shop purchased ones now.

The ok/reset button will reset the mileage and stuff, on the trip meters. it will also switch from one to two on the mileage/fuel usage trips. You can look at one and clear without clearing the other, so to speak. As for the weird wiper issue, sounds like a wiring fault but often, these things turn out to be say, the module that operates the wipers or the clock switch thing, inside the steering cowl. Sometimes, electrical gremlins can be helped by removing the battery earth (Neg -) cable for a while, then refitting. This will lose you the time and the window auto functions will need to be reset but thats simple enough.

Sounds like a wheel needs balancing or perhaps a wheel bearing is worn.

I think if you remove the cluster and fit a replacement, you may need to have it coded. You might need to have a code reader tool (Scanner). To then remove the code for the fault, if the fault was only you removing the connection. You might find someone local with VCDS tools or use something like an OBD11 plug-in device, with a download/app. Before this, though, try disconnecting the battery for about ten mins or so, then reconnect and see if that helped. You will need to re set the windows/clock, etc but the stereo should recode itself.

The reset is for such things as resetting the mileage range on the trip computer, etc. It sounds as though you may have issues with the internal parts of the switch or the part referred to as the clock wheel. They might have become gummed up or simply worn out. Is there any kind of looseness in the switch levers... Either for the wiper stalk or the signals?

Wires are usually the first thing to need checking as they often snap inside the door wiring loom.

s2will, please don't assume the switch is working... Check it out by trying that one in another car or another switch, to be sure. They can be very misleading. Same to you, Dave1982. The clutch will almost certainly cost about £300 from a clutch fitter so if done, it will give you a two year peace of mind on that front. I don't know how you drive but if the car is otherwise a scrapper, leave the belt as it will cost at least the same again. The C.V. should not be too prohibitive on its own. The clutch and CX.V. may well help you get a better PX, when the time arrives.

Did the electrician check both sides, though? It may work on one switch, without the other.