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I have seen posts regarding fans over-running and not going off, on Fabia's in general... Have you noticed if it goes off or if it keeps running? Other electrical faults may well arise. Check the earth strap from the battery to the chassis is in good, clean condition and well secured at both ends, for starters. Charge up the new battery fully and have it tested, to be sure there is no fault there, too. Unlikely if it was brand new but if previously used......

Sadly, yes I will. I have owned the car from new and even though it has had issues in the past and needs a new clutch, has done for two years almost, I would still keep it if it was not for the bl00dy Ulez rip-off! They deliberately set it just below what they new, most cars would be at, in regards to emissions and I have been led to believe, the difference is about the size of a grain of sand, per Km. Not enough to scrap perfectly good vehicles! I am thinking of a petrol version of the later incarnation of Dacia Sandero Stepway's, in Laureate form. Great little Renault engines, by all accounts and will most likely become (Even more) decent prices as they just brought out a completely new model. A late model from 2017 - on, is like the Fabia 2 facelift, if you see what I mean. Different engines, upholstery, etc, and enough toys to be nice, without too much and not too expensive to buy, insure and run. Particularly as I teach driving for a living, when allowed by Covid rules! Buying a new or newer car, will cost less then paying Ulez, if you travel on a daily basis!

A burnt clutch may give way soon or last a few more years. The downside is, it will never repair its-self. You may have contaminated it a little and it MIGHT clean but I doubt it. If burnt, the scorch may wear a little but it usually starts to deteriorate. I have just had a quote for a new clutch, 1.4 Diesel but may have the same unit as yours, of £318, from Mr. Clutch, who also have £10 vouchers online and branches nationwide. I just put that, to give you a starting point. As mentioned, you may get another year or so but sooner or later, it will fail. P.S. Are you sure it was the clutch? They do tend to stink if overheated, like cabbage thats been boiled dry, but usually will stop smelling too bad if left to cool by either parking up or by driving gently with little clutch usage, for a while, like on a duel carriageway, etc, so cool air will be passed through the engine and under body parts, without working the car. Clutches do seem to be a (Slight) weak spot on these cars, though.

As a slight aside, I had a Saab many many years ago, where the handbrake worked on the front wheels, with the left cable going to the right caliber and vice-versa. Come MOT time, the tester said exactly the same thing-handbrake cables too slack. I disagreed saying I had set them to Saab's defined perimeters, around 7 clicks and we had a somewhat disagree-able discussion but the outcome was he "Let it go" And passed me. Now, I kwow he did not "Let it go" And had he done so, I could quite rightly complain to the persons responsible for over being tests but who in the world, complains they passed the test? Back to the current situation, although the adjustment may be more then desirable, it is NOT outside working tolerance and if the brake works sufficiently, there should be no need to fail or possibly even advise BUT testers all have a slightly differing opinion and are trained to do "Typical" vehicles, not necessarily specific ones. That does not make them right, it does not also make them instant money grabbers. In my years of experience, I find most mechanics, etc now try to be fair as they would rather have your repeat custom and your recommendation to others, then you swearing never to use them again and bad-mouthing them to all and sundry! Your handbrake should be ok but there is no harm in giving it a little week. It will help you learn more about the function, maintenance and use of the vehicle, if nothing else. BTW, Proper function of the handbrake, should mean you pull it up to tension, with the button pushed in (As when lowering it) And NOT use the clicking mechanism as a function. This can lead to wear on the teeth of the unit and premature failure. Thats just me, being pedantic.

I get the point. I (May just) Have LED's up front and they look nice and white, bright and not too dazzling, unlike some vehicles that "Come with them as standard and fully legal", but the throw out of the beam is still not that good. I would defy be slipping in something like the Philips LED ones that were on that Autoexpress test, if I lived and drove out in the sticks... Mine however, were about a tenner a pair. I used to use Osram N-B's and may slip them back in again soon as they are usually cheaper on CP4L or ECP, with codes. I have not seen the Twenty20 ones on there yet, though otherwise I might try them, if discounted.

A Greenline is a 1.4 TDI, albeit in a higher spec and they have projectors.

Auto lights mean you have a sensor fitted, along with a new light switch, and it give you the capability of setting the switch so the lights come on as it gets dark. It will also do this if you go in a tunnel, etc and they can usually be set to come on when you press the remote to open the car or close it with the remote, allowing you to see the car easily or to see up your driveway etc. (Often referred to as see you home lights). The first of those functions helps find the car in a car park or up the road, in the dark. If you can operate the remote, you can (somewhat limitedly) operate the lights, in the dark. I quite like the chrome window surrounds, others tend to want less chrome! I have the Greeenline so it also has a bit more chrome around the front grille! I also fitted a little chrome strip along the boot, just above the numberplate and quite like that. Mine is a black car and the extra chrome is a great contrast! If you are a fan of the chrome, you can get chrome door handles for the outside, and even chrome scoops, for the inside of the outer handles, where your fingers go, if you see what I mean. I like them but either one or the other-both look too much! The storage I mentioned, is part of the arm rest. You can lower or raise the arm rest and when lowered, you can then lift its lid and there is extra storage there. It does take up the little squure hole in the rear of the console, though. The drink holder (Round hole) stays there so that s good thing. You can also fit little under seat boxes, which used to be fairly cheap from Skoda, for the front seats. You have to semi-remove or at least unbolt the seats for access, remove the plain cover and then fit in the boxes, with a few additional screws but they DO make a massive difference to storage, even though they are only small boxes. They shut nicely too so no stuff goes flying under your pedals! A rubber boot mat is a great addition, despite not being seen that much. Keep looking out for a bargain as they turn up here or the 'bay, now and then for a good price. Better then the thick end of £50! Beneficial if you spill stuff as its slightly dished, easily removed, washed and fitted again. Just a few more ideas, there.

The only real drawback to lubricating things is that you may get more sh1te stick to the lube or once the lubing effect wears off, the noise starts to return. I know from experience, suspension may be noisier in either very cold or very wet weather. Usually until you have driven for a short while and then it fades, perhaps as the offending parts warm up in use. If noise is continual, comes back very quick or won't fade, get the vehicle looked at as it may otherwise become dangerous. (General advise, not specific to anyones situation).

Other nice options, if you don't already have them are things such as a sunglass holder in the roof. You remove the plain panel and the sunglass holder just clips in. You can pick up aftermarket ones for around a tenner or genuine Skoda ones for about £20, or so. Just be sure to get the correct colour. Door sill covers often come up for sale and are easy to fit and quite cheap but have a nice effect. Skoda ones will have the logo to the front doors and the plastic will match the door trims you have. (Stainless ones are available, too). You can also get a plastic bumper protector, for around £40, which will also match, if it takes your fancy. Either Skoda or Rearguards... I think they are identical. All those are simple stick-in items, no drilling/screwing. Genuine centre arm rests can be had on eBay, now and then and are great if you like them, a pain if you don't. New, around £140, I got my little used one, for around £50 so a bargain! Fairly easy to fit and you get a lift-up lid for storage, although you lose the rear cubby hole as it fits in there. Many owners opt for better bulbs up front. Osram Nightbreakers, Philips, etc. Others go for LED's. There are a number of tiny little items you can fit, for very little money, that make you feel nice and improve aesthetics in a very small way. Grab handle things, in the roof-lining, to help you in or out. (Forgot their proper title) Fed up with them slamming when you let them go? Fit a little damper that makes them close soft and slow, like Audi's do... Little plastic covers for the door latch plate, makes a nice improvement and not too hard to find the proper Skoda shaped ones, although many sellers say they fit when they don't! (Supposed to make the doors sound nicer, when closing it, too). Little plastic covers on the door hinges, that improve the look of them, again, with little cost. ...On re-reading your first post, I may have mis-read originally and thought you wanted general little upgrades/ideas but it may be you just wanted ideas for the speakers. If that is the case, sorry for the additional Blah-Blah-Blah!

...There was also a rarer, Greenline style front foglight, which in my humble opinion, look much cooler! They are kind of triangular, following the contour of the outside edge of the grille. They may be harder to find used, and take a different foglight grille, but they are nice. I assume you will need to do a fair bit of additional wiring, too and also fit a different light switch, that incorporates front fogs. This MIGHT be the time to find and fit a nice auto light set-up! The pillars, I believe, only came in matt black and can be a pig to fit new ones. Might be easier to remove the old damaged ones and have them painted. You could go gloss black or even colour match to the car. (Again, like Greenlines. They are matched to the paintwork, along with the A-trim ones, which are usually clip-on plastic ones). Another thing you might consider, if your trims are sound, you could just have the correct etch primer type stuff applied, then paint them as they are. It all comes down to preference, cost and ability, really.

Or try slipping the old battery back in, to see its not causing any issue. I doubt it will make any difference but its only a ten minute job, each way, if you still have the old unit. (Always handy to keep an old one for certain situations, unless it was completely FUBAR or SNAFU).

Around 160,000 on mine (BMS lump) so far but the engine was replaced at around 50,000 due to oil pump/chain fault, under warranty. I have seen many with this sort of mileage so with regular service, etc, its good for at least that!

Do you mean the part? It is actually dearer then ones you can buy from Ebay, which have a 5 year warranty on them! I often see this... Breakers want top dollar and can even be dearer then the main dealer, for brand new, genuine, two year warranty parts but on the 'bay, I saw some for around £23. The only thing is making sure they are the correct version, which the seller will usually ask for your reg. number or chassis number, to be accurate. Have a look at this sellers parts and see if they are matching. Cut and paste the, it will then give you a listing from RGT Automotive and they will most likely have the matching part. Front Right Door Lock Actuator Fits VW Polo Transporter/Caravelle RTDLA10VW

Sounds like the coupler to the boot has been damaged, to me. With the speedo needle, is it just the bulb? Could THAT actually be what is causing the dash light to come on, rather then the numberplate one?

Are you sure this just started, too? I am unsure as to if you are noticing something "New" That may have already been there but due to the change and your expectation of having to code, etc, you are being over sensitive and finding an issue which may have either already existed or is not actually a fault, just a normal sound. Having said that, I would try my best to get the car on a good run every few weeks anyway as they do hate being left standing for an extended period of time. I think there has been an upsurge in people finding faults with their cars, due to lack of usage, this last year!

I have been lead to believe that incorrect grade and lack of oil service schedule, is one of the worse things to do to these (Or any) cars. Personally, I would get the new oil and filter sorted ASAP, then start diagnosing! Additionally, I remember hearing a few years back, of certain issues regarding people leaving one of the o-ring oil seals inside the filter housing and then fitting a new filter with another new seal, meaning there were issues with the incorrectly left behind o-ring. Can anyone enlighten me/us as to what variants this happened to or if it is universal, across the range etc and what the issue it caused was? I seam to think it may well have been an oil light warning issue!

Its a;ways a possibility you may have damaged something or not connected things correctly. Get that battery replaced and you will have a fresh starting point. Fabias DO hate weak batteries!

Hi Froggy8, Do you have access to a Haynes manual, at all? That may well show you how to remove said part. If you don't, I can try looking in my one for you but having one is invaluable, costs around £20 new but may be much cheaper on the 'bay!

Some suspension parts may well be a bit squeakier, in very cold conditions so if its just that, relax. I did think though, as you mentioned a worsening since fitting new tyres, were they new or part-worn, do they all match and are they all fitted the correct way and balanced/inflated correctly? You need to address these issues to start with. (By fitted the correct way, many tyres have an "Outside" And a direction of rotation... Get that wrong and you are asking for trouble). They could also be fitted to the bead, incorrectly or you may wave bucked a well when you hit the kerb and the latest rubber made that stand out more. Generally, wheel vibration, at around motorway legal speed and not prior and also fading out if going faster (As if you would) Is often associated with unbalanced wheels/tyres. When you had the springs fitted, did they also check the wishbone had not become bent? I had one get bent once and although the car drove straight, when you looked at the right of the car, the wheel was central in the wheel arch but the left (Front) was positioned further back and would even rub against the plastic arch, in certain conditions. Had to be replaced, of course!

Hi digsworld... Are you having the same issue, with the same piece of hose? I funnily enough have had the same issue myself just recently. Noticed a distinct smell of fuel, took off the engine cover and got someone to turn the ignition whilst I looked. Found a small jet of diesel leaking from the small pipe that joins the metal pipe, to the other pump type thing. (A kind of right angled, 15cm bit of rubber hose. I bandaged it up with duct tape, to get to an automotive shop, whipped it off and they matched size. I purchased half a metre and they also cut me a (slightly longer) then the old piece from that, so I have some spare for future use. That saved me trying to make a nice clean cut, in the street. Two jubilee clips as well, as the old clips are a pain to get off and perhaps harder to get on again, without proper pliers (Around a tenner on eBay, for them). So, I can give you the pipes diameter, 7mm internal and around 15mm outer or if you had the time, post you a piece, to fit, for a fiver. That will cover postage and the pipes cost. I unfortunately can't give the code as I realised the piece I have left over has been chopped off, just after the first digit, which looks like an 8 so it may well be 8mm. Very hard to measure as its hard to keep perfectly round, it has a tendency to want to go very slightly oval, when not fitted. The guy who sold me some though, new instantly they correct size and as mentioned, cut just a little longer to hopefully reduce any strain on the bend. The same diameter hose seems to run around the whole engine diesel pipes so might even be worth buying a good few metres, to replace the system, if keeping an older car.

There does appear to be replacements similar to the listed one, for similar money that can either weld OR clamp. It may be worth noting! Find the correct diameter and have enough space for the brakes, then bolt one on!

I would have said the price was ok-not great but ok, as long as it had a minimum of a years warranty. Two would be better still. Many companies like Kwik-Fit, etc used to use Walkers parts and they seem to live for the warranty and may be just a little longer. Get a genuine Skoda parts quote too, so you know where you stand. They WILL have two years and will almost certainly outlive that!

I am guessing you will need to get a part code for this from your local dealer. You might find a used one but so often, I have found dealers to be lower priced then breakers yards and it will be new! Get the quite for the part and ask for the part number, to be sure. If you need to go back to them, you will have the part number to hand and be able to make them feel good by being cheaper or able to source the elusive part.

Give the battery a good full charge and see if it still does it!