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Have a look at the wiring where it goes in to the tailgate and be sure nothing has cracked/broken. Go through all bulbs to see if anything else has blown or stopped working, such as brake lights, etc. You might then need to use an electrical fault finder, the ones like a needle, where you earth the end and poke the pointy bit either on to a piece of live connection or through a wire, to test it. Whilst bridged, did the dash light go out or stay on? I am surprised to so the numberplate bulbs actually show up as a fault in any case.

Look at all the wiring inside the door loom bellow, both sides. They are very prone to cracking and/or snapping and may need fixing.

Yours IS facelift. Check all wiring is the same though. Projectors are different to reflectors.

I left the brake fluid cap off my daughters Yaris, when I took it for its MOT after doing the routine checks... Remembered I had not put it back mid - way through but said nothing. I thought they would;d fail it with no cap but they seemed not to notice. I found it again when I got home, under the engine compartment. Luckily I didn't lose it as I wouldn't want moisture in there!

VW POLO GOLF AUDI A1 SEAT IBIZA SKODA FABIA GEAR SHIFT RELAY LEVER 6R0711202 Is that eBay listing the part you want to replace or need to lube? Even from what you can see, you could most likely spray all around it with WD40 and then leave a day or so. It may help and then, spray grease, leave again for a day. If that works, job done for a tenner and half a can of both left over!

Not sure about fuses but if its the motor, its a dash out job! The climatic versions have a resistor that goes squiffy and needs replacing via the glove box but on the climatronic type, its built in to the motor so a bigger job. The actual fan is quite expensive and labour etc makes it around a £500 job. Worth doing yourself if you are able but steering wheel has to come off, along with the one-piece dash. There HAVE seen a few posts over time suggesting it is possible to dob part removal of the dash but I would think the job is made so much harder, hence the dealer or specialist will go straight for the removal... Have you tried putting your hand up inside the interior air-con filter housing, to feel the fan and see if it is seized or if it rotates easily? If seized, it will be obvious that it needs replacing/rebuilding if possible.

I think the Vrs will have a spoiler but otherwise, it will be the same shape. Hatchback to hatchback, estate to estate. Same bonnet, wings, front doors, different after that. Even fronts differ from the older shape, to the facelift version

I think the dipstick does have a little O-ring, mounted near the top end.

That was a "Friendly" Ha-Ha, not a sarkie, Simpsons type one! Glad you found it although I recon everyone has dropped something at one time or another. In most cases, they will eventually end up on the road, somewhere.

Pre facelift bonnets although similar, are indeed different. The bonnet was kind of lowered for later variants so they, along with most of the front, are not the same shape.

You say they work for about five mins... This is perhaps the normal setting as electric windows work for that length of time, once the ignition is switched off, UNLESS you open a door. So try that. open the door after just a few seconds of setting the windows to see if they cancel straight away. (They should). It does sound to me though, that this is happening every time you try to use the windows so perhaps the issue lies with whatever makes the windows operate for these few mins. A relay or controller or something. Those wires do look odd though so be sure they ae not getting crossed together or shorting out, once you close the door. Check the full length of all the wires, too.

You may be right with the diagnosis and most likely, Wino here will be of help. The only thing I could have suggested was to disconnect the battery for a short while as there is sometimes the likelihood of some of the display going off, due to a static build up and it generally returns after doing as mentioned. I am clutching at straws here, though as you are having ignition issues to boot, whereas MY experience of the problem I mention, just puts out the display. The engine still runs, etc. You could I suppose, also have a blown fuse and/or fusible link, somewhere. I hope someone gets back to you soon!

...And thats a great price... If I didn't have to sell my car on this year (ULEZ) And they posted, Id be having them!

Thats a new one! It usually does that sort of thing the other way around, if for instance, something obstructs the window. This is a safety issue so someone doesn't get their arm or head clamped in a closed window. Have a look in the door loom wiring section for damaged wiring.

It sounds like you may have inadvertently loosened the retaining clamp. There is a clamp made of two parts and you hold one part, whilst twisting the other either one way or the other, to loosen it for removal or to refit it. (A little like fitting a lightbulb). Have you or anyone else swapped the original for a replacement part in th past? I have seen cheap copies that have the double clamp made sort of properly and others made of just one piece, perhaps via 3D printing methods, rather then assembled parts.

I have never seen a Fabia with two boots! (Unless you count the ones the driver is wearing).

You may want to think about where you will drive it, too as a diesel of that age will almost certainly incur fees to drive in to certain cities, which will start to become the norm over the next decade. Thats why I am having to sell my Greenline later this year!

Hi, I just wanted to inform anyone who is interested, that this genuine item, from Skoda, is available from the main dealerships from less then a fiver, despite others selling them for a tenner or even more, PLUS postage. That is one heck of a mark up! Anyway, I purchased one for my Fabia and it fits ok, just a little close to the bonnet cable, which with a little wiggle of the filler neck, means it will open fine but if you can't be bothered, opens with a wiggle. The cap opens to form a funnel, which helps prevent overspill of fluid, which often goes straight over the battery earth strap, on my car at least. I also slackened the earth, twisted it round on its fixing point (It was set at say, 12 o/clock, I reset it at 11.45). That gave just a little more space, too. (I was in the process of whipping off my battery and charging it at home, so had spanners handy). The silicone cap replaces the hard blue plastic one quite easily, with no need for any tools and takes just a minute but if you are fussy and want to move the bits I moved, it will take around 5-10 mins to do, at most. I think they look a little hit and miss but in real terms, as do the normal plastic ones but they are a handy little bit of kit and may well fit other cars with similar sized necks. (50mm, I think and have seen on the 'Bay that they fit some Range Rovers, etc). Part number 6V0 955 485

Clutches could feel different even from one Fabia to another so comparing it to a Pug is like comparing apples with oranges... That said, the clutch could be worn or getting there and I think personally, they tend to be a weak spot on a Fabia so perhaps have someone test it for you or if purchasing from a dealer, ask them very specifically about it state and if it is included in any warranty offered. That said, a clutch is a service part and only has a certain life expectancy on any vehicle so if suspicious of wear, get a quote for a new one and factor that in to making any offer on the car. You may have to change it in the future but might just get the cost off the price or if from a dealer, they may just change it at cost.

Windows is usually related to broken wires sans door loom. Have you made sure you are slipping the OBD thing in properly? I find I need just a little more force then I am comfortable with.

I think there is some sort of convenience module or similar, that CAN suffer from corroded terminals. It may be possible to clean them up but otherwise, its replacement. Fuse(s) first though, as Wino mentioned.

A long time ago, I had an EGR valve replaced once, only to be confronted by the same light/issue within a day or so... I took it back and they found I think, a slightly loose valve, or injector, which needed replacing. It was quite a number of years ago and has never been an issue since. I think I still have the original EGR valve in my shed as I was sure it was not faulty, a little dirty perhaps but not damaged. If memory serves, the valves/injectors in question, are a kind of rounded square and tend to vibrate loose over time. They wear a little and then won't function correctly. I do have the older, 1.4 TDI Greenline but it may help guide you. That said, if the part was replaced just a short time ago and is still showing the fault, it SHOULD be a warrantied part. Looking back, I think it was the injector.

Be nice to find out what the issue ended up being! We are all gonna start a gambling ring on the outcome...lol

Another way of checking if you have access to one, is a smoke machine... You could put it IN the car and look for smoke coming out or try pumping the smoke into the car, whatever helps. (I use one to "Fog" The car with anti bacterial fumes, every now and then, like those A/C bombs).

I think you are going to be right on the cusp, so to speak. I think they had a ten year anti perforation warranty and you will clearly see this has been ongoing. That said, any claim should be made asap. It can't hurt to try, though as this seems to be a common(Ish) Problem. They may do it free or meet you half way but that said, second hand may well be cheaper, if you are able to fit it. Found this on eBay for £40 but it says collection. You might be able to get it couriered as its a good price. They are averaging around a hundred, used. SKODA FABIA TAILGATE BOOT LID BEIGE PAINT CODE 9202 2010-2014