mrgf

I didn't much to my regret... The tap that comes with the kit is just there to "Clean the thread" In order to assess its state. You are recommended to lube it and screw it in, to perhaps clean and rectify slight damage. Mine was almost all the way with just a little bit of decent thread left, to enable screwing the tap and subsequently the pins, backward into the holes, so to speak. As this is the way to drill and fit the inserts anyway, it is easier to keep the wheels facing straight forward as I usually turn the wheels outward, when swapping brake pads. The drill bit itself, is a stepper drill so it starts off small and goes bigger until full diameter. I suppose this is so as to help prevent the bit jamming and snapping in the hole. Drill gently, removing the bit a few times as you won't that! The pressing of the inserts is straight forward but tight. If you can do brakes and drill holes, it should be easy enough to do. I would also think many users won't even bother with the guides but I did as I didn't want to mess it up. You might even think the complicate it more though! I was nervous of tightening the inserts by cranking in the pins, which to them in so as I mentioned, I staggered this by part tightening, removing the pins and then clamping a little more, then pins again, etc. No stripped threads, no crushed/warped inserts/ They are quite tough little inserts but I would recommend pressing rather then hammering as that is asking for issues. When the inserts are fitted, they don't obstruct the caliper fitment, which is something I was worried about as they do protrude from the hole by a few mm but there is easily enough space. No need to over drill (Countersink) the outer edge as I have seen people do with other insert kits. I would imagine this to actually weaken the hole slightly. I did mention I reamed the hole slightly but it was really just passing the drill bit through the hole at high speed a few times, with very slight pressure to make a very slight change to the diameter. Most likely better not to, then over do it though! Just work the pressing/ pin screwing a bit more at a time... One over thing I noticed is the new threads seem quite tight on the new pins so be careful and you won't strip them but they will almost certainly need to be turned with an Allen key or something. I think the Allen key provided will do at first, so as not to over force it and perhaps finish with a ratchet/torque wrench to obtain a better tightness to the completed job. Funny how doing a nice job leaves a feeling of accomplishment and satisfaction. I would guess even to do inserts, a garage mechanic would charge around £100 for the one caliper. (Blooming auto correct keeps changing caliper to calibur... I think they know I live in London and think I am gonna shoot someone).

Possible but unlikely unless you drive over them literally all the time! Based on that assumption, imagine the opposite effect caused by roundabouts and turning. This will increase wear to the outside edges. Over and under inflating tyres causes uneven treadler and this, along with control issues, is why the rules governing tyre pressure monitors came in to effect a few years back (Must be fitted to 2017-on vehicles, or there about. Don't quote that, just a guide). As Jara stated, the most likely cause will be tracking as that can get knocked out by hitting kerbs, potholes, etc. You could also suffer different suspension issues, such as a bent shock, for example which if ever so slight, might just work ok but still make alignment a little difficult and not exact. Wear will be limited but still happen. As you mention suspect paint, on the side you have the wear, I think you may well be correct in suspecting other possibilities. I would start at the tracking though as many service centres or tracking specialists offer a free check, only charging for corrections. Whilst this won't meant the won't try and fail to check, it is a relatively cheap service, compared to some things and they may well swing you in the right direction, if there is another issue. Ask around a bit, for recommended tracking specialists. Always a good way to start!

Hi Fred, please check and be sure you are happy but I spotted this on eBay... Cut and paste that into eBay and it will show you what I think may well be what you need! £30, free shipping from Oldham. Skoda Fabia 5J MK2 Cruise Control stalk - Wipers & Headlight 6Q0 953 503 EJ

So I believe he has cruise control. I don't think there is anything specific to it being an estate, though, regarding headlight stalks, etc. Mainly, you need to know if cruise is on the new ones. I am unsure even if maxi dot makes a difference but on a standard dash setting, you have the little trip computer stuff on the right, along with wiper controls, on the left you have signals, headlight main/dipped/flash and then, additionally, cruise functions. Quick question to Wino, if he knows, can the standard non-cruise stalks be swapped for cruise, along with any necessary additional wiring or if it more complicated then that? I am wondering if it then needs coding, etc. (Would it be plug and play to a local loom socket or is there much more wiring, through to say, the ECU, along with extra coding via VCDS). I have wondered this for some time but never looked it up, along with swapping the steering wheel for a M/F one, to operate the audio controls to a small degree. I might post these questions anyway, soon.

So, I drew breath, got prepped and undertook the job, this morning! I took my time, got all the necessary tools, trolley jack, axle stand, wheel chocs, wheel removal tool, etc-etc. Plus a cordless drill, to do the drilling for the inserts, as I had the two threads go. (The second, I must add, by a mechanic who told me he'd had done it up properly, as I had left it loose, when he fitted a new brake master cylinder and bled the system)! So, with removing everything, checking the threads, drilling, fitting the inserts and re-assembling, then putting the gear all away again, I spent two hours. This would most likely be halved if I was working from a garage but I had to get the stuff to and from a shed and was working in the street, outside. The inserts are a fairly tight fit and I would recommend using threadlike compound on them, as advised any way. The Laser website has full fitting instructions, which I downloaded and printed, and also will point out, the inserts go in to the holes the opposite way to the caliper pins, so as to resist coming loose. I found the best method of fitting them in the new holes to be a gentle tighten with the caliper pin, then remove said pin and gently squeeze the insert a little more with a G-clamp. repeat until happy the insert is full home. I did it this way as I did not trust the insert to strip again with too much pressure on the pin, when screwing, whilst I did not want to distort it by G-clamping it too hard, either. (A little OCD but thats just me)! The second hole, I drilled and just ever so slightly used the bit to ream the hole a little larger as the first was sooo tight and I assumed if anything, the drill bit would shrink as it drilled, making later holes tighter and tighter. (May be designed for ten holes but as mentioned, the first WAS very tight). That action did make the second insert a little easier but then, so does practice! I did also use the guides, provided in the box. As you can imagine, the original threads were stripped almost but not quite, all the way through. The pins stayed put but would still turn easily so I did not trust them. The guides, you insert from the opposite from fitted side, too and then slot the guide over, lining up the second hole, poking the drill bit though and gently drill the new hole. Not hard but worth using the guide, just to be sure to stay on the correct trajectory. Once the insert is in, do the same for the second hole, if needed. I would think the new inserts, being made of a hardened steel, would be less prone to stripping, unlike the cast holes but I still took great care re-tightening both during installing the inserts and re-fitting the calipers. So, all in all, a few hours labour saved a fortune in fitting a new steering knuckle, which I think would have been beyond my expertise (HA)! I recon a main dealer would charge around £500 to supply and fit one and I have seen them range from £50 to £150 for the part on the "Bay", where my repair set cost the princely sum of £15! I have said it and I will say it again, I love a bargain,me! Big, big thank-you to the_diy_shop. High praise as they knew I was after the tool and did not pump up the price, when ordering them especially for me. I also hope others with this issue can take advantage of this info as if you can change brakes and have a drill, you can almost certainly do this job, too! I must also thank Wino, due to the fact that from my initial post, he put me on to this type of repair set. Thanks, Wino, you are an inspiration!

Yes, the AA make small and/or temporary repairs, not proper mechanical ones. The actual warranty with the seller is whet you need here. I have seen many sellers offer as little as three months but if PipH is correct and citizens rights/and/or trading standards say you have a right to six, you should be covered and the car should be "fit for purpose". That is a legal term and in this case, means the car should be drivable and safe. Charge the battery, try the car again and then go to the seller. This is going to be your first step.! Oh and whilst being polite, keep mentioning fit for purpose and also, if they are calling you out or nor being helpful, mention trading standards! Be firm, hold ypur ground and also tell them you are on Briskoda, the Skoda owners forum. This will be helpful if they are s Skoda specialist.

Sounds a heck of a lot of money for an EGR valve... Is that what they said it was? I would also have thought the dealer, private or main dealer, must give you some sort of warranty to ensure the car is fit for purpose! Usually, this will be a lowly 3 months but you have had it less then this and under the circumstances, I would have thought they would agree a few extra weeks any way! First thing, charge the battery and have it checked for voltage, etc. Also contact the seller and make a polite but firm complaint. Unless you agreed with the purchase as being (The normal term traders use, to sell on cheaper, potentially unreliable stock) "Trade sale". This implies they have sold it to you, with the understanding that you are willing to overlook faults and/or fix them yourself. (I recon a decent solicitor would run rings around even this claim from them but that will cost buckets of cash). Whilst doing all this, check places such as carparts4less, for an EGR to fit your car. Some are quite reasonable and some are easy to fit. I have no knowledge of your one.

I am a bit confused about the xenon bit... Did Skoda also fit a Xenon light to a car this age? I know they had either a reflector or a projector unit but thats all I am aware of. There are certain LED bulb kits that are supposed to be "Plug & play", also HID'd with a similar claim, albiet more expensive and having ballasts, to fit somewhere. Regarding LED's, they will not fit straight in and need a small clip to hold the bulb with. You have to remove the existing clip and fit a different one, suitable for the bulb. I am kind of wondering if this is the sort of thing you may need? Am I anywhere near the mark or totally missing the point? Are you able to load some pictures, etc to help? BTW, There is one on eBay for £33, delivered! They might take thirty if you asked them nicely and it'll save a job of work!

In ordinary circumstances, at that age at least, a Fabia should be able to start up without the clutch being depressed. I am aware some cars now NEED the clutch to be depressed, prior to starting or they simply will not start but Fabia's should! Just as a thought,I do not have cruise control but I doubt that would make a difference, normally, without a fault. Have you started by checking any appropriate fuses and also, checking the battery is fully charged?

I am taking a wild guess but did her father pay for the wedding?😇

What did you mean when you stated you got it to work by the suggested method? Additionally, do you mean the key opened and started the car a few times, then failed or opened, turned in the ignition, so the idiot lights came on, but then, on trying to fire up, that was when the issue started?? Transponders DO need coding but many people suggest they or others can do this with the necessary VCDS coding equipment or similar. I do not think it is either easy or perhaps even possible to code them, without this. I also don't get if the original key just stopped the alarm or if you can still drive/lock/unlock the car with it (Normal operation of original key). Sorry, the post was a little jumbled. I am taking a little leap here and saying I don't think English is your first language.

...Having read you had the tyres fitted PRIOR to going for the MOT and service, I would think the dealer dressed the tyres as part of the service. This may have been done as part of a valet, which is supposedly included as a service at many dealers. (Possible). I am sure you would have noticed the stuff on the tyres already, had you had them fitted before the service, etc. (Probably). The other simple reason may be due to the current Covid19 climate. The service station may just have used some sort of "Sheep-dip type cleaner to drive through, in order to sanitise the wheels/tyres, prior to them working on it. This is quite a likely scenario, too!

If he knew they were wrong, they should still refund as it was their fault... They should have refused to sell them to you! A quick look at those show they are for a left hand drive car. If you sit on the left and drive on the right, like most of Europe and America, they should be the correct ones but if you sit on the right, drive on the left like us back in the UK, they will be the wrong lights. The main difference will be the lens directing the beams to the incorrect side of the road, dazzling oncoming drivers dangerously. In addition, the wiring could potentially be different, too! I am unsure about the driving position in India, to be sure to advise but you will want the correct version.

That does sound a little long... You didn't mention a DPF, though. If they are interrupted mid-cycle, they can stay on too long.

Whilst you are waiting on a reply, how long does it stay on for? Have you tried timing it? I would suggest a min or so is ok but if its staying on for say, ten mins or even longer, there is definitely an issue. Sorry I had to quote an obvious post but for some reason, I could not just post the normal way! Edit... I just read a post concerning car inIreland, some years ago. The owner was searching for clues to a running fan, which over the long and short of it, turned out to be his ECU. He cleaned it up, using WD40, refitted it and never had the problem again. This was after fitting repellent fans and doing many other things such as fixing some wiring he thought responsible. Five years later, someone asked him how he dismantled the ecu but he could not remember. That said, he posted no more about HIS situation... I believe his car was an 04, he also mentioned the car having an 05 ECU so it may already have been replaced, previously. Having had a similar issue with my wipers, the module being cleaned up and protected/refitted with no reoccurrence, I could well see his issue being resolved! Just a thought.

Whilst you are waiting on a reply, how long does it stay on for? Have you tried timing it? I would suggest a min or so is ok but if its staying on for say, ten mins or even longer, there is definitely an issue. Sorry I had to quote an obvious post but for some reason, I could not just post the normal way! Oh, I saw threads regarding Octy's doing this and some mention the DPF... Is your car equipped with one?

Yep. I was rather long-winded there (Even for me) But The poor chap is of the opinion its not that much to do, to change the whole front end, instead of getting the correct unit. My guess is its easier to get the part, then to source all the needed bits, someone to fit them, etc. I could do the light... You could and he could but -hey- it sounds as if the dealer let him down, suggesting it was just a few bits and bobs. A sale is a sale, after all!

Yee-Ha! They arrived this afternoon. I am busy tomorrow so I am hoping to try them out on Friday. They came well protected and look as sturdy a bit of kit as the much costlier Laser branded one! Thank you again, the_diy_shop. They ordered them, following my request and didn't hike up the price a penny!

UrbanPanzer marked the projector with his arrow. The projector is a kind of "Globe" that the bulb sits in, once in the light unit. (Looks a bit like some sort of Christmas light from the front of the car). Don't try taking that out as its manufactured in. It means taking out the whole light assembly, (Bumper off, etc) then splitting the light as they are glued. Hard work unless you are fitting better projectors, as someone did here, once! In your lights, there is the signal bulb, upper left area if looking AT the headlight pictured above, with the arrow and facing the car. Then you have the sidelight bulb. This is on the left of the picture again, about halfway down, or perhaps a bit lower. The sidelights are well known to be a pain to get at as they have a very small aperture inside the bonnet area and are usually well set back inside, with a fairly hard to pull, bulb holder. I can offer a reasonably easy way of getting to these, if you need it as I have done mine a few times and fitted LED's there. I am confident UrbanPanzer has given you the most likely reason for your lights failing as he has had experience of fitting these stalks, before. The steering wheel itself, is held on by a bolt, which supposedly is meant to be replaced with a new one, each time the wheel is removed. I would suggest if using the existing one, to at least put some threadlock on the bolt, prior to refitting it. There are a few posts on youtube, showing how to remove the airbag/wheel, etc and yes, it looks sort of straight forward but take note of the advice about removing the battery earth first. A new airbag is pricey, even used ones sell for around £50, perhaps more and will have no known history. I doubt they will be duff but if the car they were removed from was scrapped, why was the airbag still intact? Just a thought! EDIT... I just realised, I may have been answering the bulb position with regards to the older lights, not the facelift, without noticing who posted what question/query. My post here, is particularly for the older pre facelift... The steering wheel issue will be the same, though. Its kind of funny why they changed the layout of the headlights. Perhaps an improvement on light output, following consultation or more likely, to sell more new cars where the first and most easily spotted difference is the placement of the projector "Globe" Inside the unit! Inner edge globes-old car, outer edge globes-new car! Reminds me of the late, great Roger Moore and his raised eye-brows. He was renown for it, even though Sean Connery did the same thing, albeit more discreetly! Old Bond, little eye-brow raise-new Bond, bigger eye-brow raise!

You can't just change the one, even then. You would need the pair. Its also the wing (Fender) as the light is shaped differently so won't fit. So thats two lights, two wings, front panel, bonnet, bumper, bonnet lock, many other parts, wiring, perhaps wheel arches, the list goes on... This will also need painting, fitting, etc. You will spend thousands on a car worth less then the sum of the parts! Do you not have car breakers/dismantlers anywhere near you? It would be cheaper to drive a few hundred miles to source a used light, then do all the work, even if it can then still be done. Once you start you will be stuffed if you can't continue. It might even be easier to sell the car, advertised as needing a new light or buying a crashed one, with the light still there. Be careful not to also get the wrong type of light as you need projector and NOT reflector. If you get a reflsector, again, you will need to change a pair and they will need totally different wiring to operate. A whole new nightmare! Doable but again, not worth the cost! The dealer should have not sold you the light so do your best to get a refund or you will be left with something that won't work. In English terms, your car is worth at best, £2000 with the headlight and low mileage, etc. The paintwork, parts, fitting will come closer to £3000, if doable and then, the car will not be worth a penny more then when you started. A light will cost you around £100, less from a scrapyard/motor factor, eBay, etc and you can almost certainly fit it yourself or pay another £100 to get someone to do it. I can only state again, you have the wrong part, you have the part for a newer, altered model of the same car. Put it this way, if the new light fitted straight from the box, I would have had a set on my car as the bulbs are supposedly a bit better. Carparts4less sell some, with a nice black tint to them. I would then have sold my own ones on eBay as they would be original Skoda parts. FROM 2010, THE FABIA HAD A NEW, REDESIGNED FRONT END, INCLUDING ALL THE LISTED PARTS (BONNET, WINGS, GRILLE, HEADLIGHTS, BUMPER, PLUS OTHER BITS AND BOBS. They also had newer generation engines, new seat upholstery, plus various other bits. It was still a MK2 Fabia, called the facelift, as it was mostly the same but still SIGNIFICANTLY different. That is partly why after all the changes needed, the car will still not be worth more. It could actually end up being worth less, could cause great confusion when repairs are needed, and insurance (If needed in your country) May well go up due to the modifications. The only benefit would be a slightly unusual version of the car as it will be the old shape, with the later shape front end. There will be possibly one or two people who like the idea and perhaps offer a better price to buy, come the time to sell but most will start to think it was involved in a crash and repaired, using later version parts. Would you buy that? In all honesty and again, I cannot say it firmly enough, try getting the money back for the part you payed for or sell it on again at perhaps a small loss as you have the wrong part. To attempt the work, unless you are in the trade or have someone you know in the trade, renovating and modifying will be a money pit, with no real benefit! It might even be worth buying the cheapest Fabia you can find, taking the light and selling it again as a repairable... Perhaps stick your broken unit back in to look like it was ok, just needing the light. Cheap MK 2's are seen from around £800 in the UK. no idea again, how much they would be in India. Oh, one more thing... The Fabia you refer to in the post, where the guy swapped the lights, wiring, etc IS A FACEFLIFT. If you are thinking it is not, you are very wrong. I am now thinking you are considering the later, 2015 Fabia MK3, is the facelift. This was actually a whole new car. The facelift was around half way though the production of Fabia MK 2 (5J) As they started around 2007, facelift 2010, new model Fabia MK3, 2015. Please take heed of this post as you will find so much trouble, unless you really, REALLY want to pay a fortune modifying your car. The whole point of this forum is to help others... I would not stress anywhere near this much, the point I have made, just to put you off. Best wishes, Gary. (mrgf).

I am just waiting for the caliper tool to drive now. The seller ordered ten sets, so far three have gone, including mine. Not surprising considering the price of some kits. I thought this would be a cheap sort of copy but on Google searching the brand (Blue Spot), The RRP is a tad shy of £60! Its actually cheaper to replace the set from this seller, then to get a set of the inserts from many others! Oh, and you can register for the tools lifetime guarantee! I love a bargain, me!!!

Fawn rush, I have never counted but it looks standard. It might also feed the flap. As they are just one filament, the flick from dipped to high, moves the flap/shield up or down. Hard to spot, easier to hear if someone flicks the switch whilst you looking are in the engine bay. Fred,66, That may be good or just misleading. Both, replacing of the stalk is a bit of work. Steering wheel, airbag, clock springl plastic shroud all need to come off, I believe.

After 2010, the projector lights changed so you may have two bulbs, Fred66. For you, it is just possible a fuse (Doubt it as left and right ought to use seperate ones though) Could be blown or Bizarrely, both headlight bulbs. Check inside the light units for two sets of H7 bulbs, take out one at a time and examine them. Obvious blown bulbs- great... Hard to know or look sound, after refitting , swap the two per headlight around on both units. If the problem remains exactly the same, it shouldn't be a bulb issue. If the mains work, flash doesn't, bulbs need renewing. I may be wide of the mark but worth a look. The problem is, usually, the flash and the main will be exactly the same bulb, with dipped being a different one. Try it anyway. If access is ok, it will only cost you ten-fifteen mins of your time.