mrgf

I assume you mean "Thats the way to go for someone you know"! The deleter (If thats a word) on doing the work, also upped the BHP a modest 10, from 80 to 90. Ok for a modest 1.4, where the non dpf model was listed at 70BHP to start with.

The guy I know someone had it done from, said they use a tube, like a scaffold pole or something that fits inside, like a trolley back handle. I bet they keep hold of the precious metal, on top of the cost but hey- it won't block up again and only chuffs smoke on cheap fuel, on harder acceleration! Three MOT's later, still doing its job.

Lets hope the F.C.U.K'ers get it right first time!

I may be wide of the mark but I know SOME dpf's can kind of be emptied out, without opening the canister. You kind of "Knock the middle bit out, after removing it, then re-install the empty-ish unit and have the system deleted, electronically. (All layman terms). It is almost impossible to know its been done, will pass an MOT as there is no external tampering, as long as the engine is not running on sloppy, cheap diesel. (Cataclean or similar, prior to MOT will help). I am not suggesting this WILL work or if its legal, but I have known it to work and pass MOT's on someones car. This will cost around the same price as a forced regen. Or so I am led to believe.

I think I'd be inclined to get a Skoda dealer/ quality workshop to fit one, then if it fails, its their responsibility! That said, the price will be a bit of a lump.

A 5 year old battery will almost certainly be getting weak, now. I would deffo start from that. I would even hazard a guess the last time it did it was prior to fitting the battery you have now. Have a look on carparts4less, find a discount code and see how much the unit will cost. They will deliver for free, too. Once you find the correct unit, look on the "Bay" for the same one and it may be even cheaper. I used to use Bosch but as a driving instructor, was lucky to see the warranty out (Obvs meant I'd get a replacement for free, with no remaining warranty) But the recent one I got was an Exide. Part price, part revues.

NEWSFLASH... The seller I mentioned restocked and resisted his eBay post for the caliper kit. It is the insert type, with the guide brackets, which usually sell for around £25-£30. I just paid £14.95! Hopefully, the eBay listing below will lead anyone to it. (They had ten, when I ordered). the_diy_shop https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174351293594

Just make sure to do proper oil changes, with the correct grade, at the correct time. Also, keep the coolant fresh. It may need changing more frequently in that climate. Go by the book or check with the local VW/Skoda dealership.

old, worn batteries cause untold errors/faults. Fabians hate worn/half flat batteries. Turning on and off very frequently can sort of upset some of the sensitive electrics/electronics and also, flatten the battery. It takes around 15-20 mins of driving, to put back in, what you used to start the car.

Some parts of the display went off after a static cloth may have been used to wipe the cluster's screen. Might be worth popping the battery neg lead off for a little while, then putting it back on to see if all comes back or not.

Would like to see the instructions for use of the other system mrgf showed, looks like some sort of jig included to increase accuracy. Funnily enough, that was the set on the other thread/post. The one I actually discovered was the one with the pins but I popped the other up, to highlight the difference. I am unsure about instructions but one seller suggested looking at them in use, on youtube... As for stiction, I get the point but unlike say, shock absorbers, etc, the movement is going to be very limited and only slowly will the pins travel further then the initial setting, as the pads wear down so a minuscule amount of misalign will most likely be ok.

This how the other version looks!

I got under bonnet insulation on the Fabia but it is a diesel... Fitted bonnet lifters myself and its massively better! (Boot pop springs, too).

I would say without a doubt, the Superb is a better quality car then the Fabia. A larger cabin and boot only amount to a few hundred quid of extra metal and plastic!! Sure, they may not be a Rolls but then, nor is a BWM or Mercedes... I used to have an (Even when I had it) Old Mercedes 190E and it was considered the entry level, foot in the door version of the brand. The quality in no way matched the higher spec, better trim level, bigger engined Mercedes' produced at the time and thats the way it should be. An 80's Ford Fiesta will not match the standard of an 80's Ford Granada and nothing has changed over time. Basic entry levels, even of the same model, better models, etc, as the price goes up, so does the quality. (Fabia's ranged from around £7K to £14K, when I had mine). Oh, ShyVRS245, my Fabia had the optional, soft touch dash, available at extra cost.. This only then, covered the top half of the dash. 😀 Anyway, this is deviating from the initial post so I will quit at this.

The re-skimming of blown heads was meant to be more generic, then specific but its great to know the 1.4 lump does not suffer this issue. Is that just how it is, Sepulchrave or are you basing it on never having heard of it happening? I have had a replacement cylinder head, turbo, then full engine replaced ALL within the three year warranty term, luckily. I think the engine replacement was due to the oil pump chain snapping and wrapping itself around in knots, f.c.u.k-ing the whole thing!

I was looking around and have seen the earlier type one a little cheaper with a make an offer so I am waiting to see if they accept. I also saw someone who sold three sets of the insert type kit for £14.99 so that was worth asking them if they have more as its around half price!I I am now of the opinion, the later type are simpler so worthy but the threaded insert type are more adaptable, for other areas of worn thread of the same size. So, ease, get the pin version, adaptability, the insert type. I will update on what I choose. If I get a good deal from the lower price seller, I will post that as they may be "Just worth having" for fifteen notes! I have also seen very low cost ones, of differing threads/sizes so it has opened up a new world for damaged threads! I had a small concern with the threaded ones as, although I read that the thread will be stronger then the cast iron one, due to being steel, I wondered if on unscrewing the pins to change pads again, the insert might just come back out again and then, you are re-fitting it into the cast metal again. I suppose knowledge will make you cautious, though.

I had a look at the kits and they insert a thread the same as standard, after first removing the pins and drilling/tapping new threads. Look fairly do-able but I then saw an even simpler variant, where the kit had bigger threaded pins, again in tens, where you just drill, retap and no need to fit insert as the pin has M10 not M9. (eBay). Type (cut and paste) in the details once on eBay Brake Caliper Guide Bolt Thread Repair Tool Kit Set - Ford GM VAG VW Audi That was the later, simpler kit. Bit pricier but still a good price.

I will take a look now. Thanks, Wino.

If they are adaptive, they are already higher then standard quality so yeah they will be pricier. Be sure to check any mileage/age warranty though as Skoda spares usually have a two year warranty. If they are fitting them and offering that and the local one is offering less, it might be worth the extra bunce! Perhaps even a chat with your main dealer, showing them the price you have been quoted by the local guy and still banging on about the low mileage/just over the three year period, etc. They might just come down and match the price. Mention Briskoda a few times, make them feel like they are being scrutinised and they may feel a sudden goodwill gesture. Was the dealer the place you bought the car from and was it from new? Do you get servicing done there, along with the MOT? All these things may make them feel obliged in lowering the bill somewhat. When I first purchased my Fabia, the dealer allowed me 20% off parts and labour, for the time I owned the vehicle. Thats a nice incentive to keep going back. If they are not helpful, let them know further work will be carried out elsewhere. Looking at that other post by DCC, I would also tell them about that and try to discover if others have had such failures. It might just be a dodgy supply of parts.

Ask a suspension place how long a shock will last, mileage wise. The problem with suspension, and I assume you mean shocks and/or springs, is that the way the vehicle is used can make for great variables in wear rates. Drive hard and give the suspension a good work out and it will wear quicker then gentle driving and lower weight applications. From the onset, the basic suspension will be a compromise between quality and price. In real terms, the set-up will be fairly modest, when compared to high end parts. Even straight from the forecourt, a new shock could fail, if you hit a large enough pot hole or kerb, etc. The unit may compress to such a degree that it "Bottoms out" And bursts a seal. Then it will leak and become at best, poor and at worse, dangerous. I am somewhat surprised though, that you went the main dealer route and had the gear changed (Assumption here, by the price quoted) As I am sure an independent suspension place could have upgraded the shocks/springs for that sort of money!

Does anyone here have any experience of replacing the steering knuckle on a Fabia? I ask as I seem to have stripped threads on the part where the caliber bolts on and I think its a complete unit, with no removable caller bracket. (How stupid is that)? I have the FS111 callipers, with the two slide pins and they seem to go in and tighten to a degree without falling back out but they won't actually tighten to a stop. I will most likely try a new set of pins as they come pre-thread-locked but I would most likely think the bracket would strip as it is cast iron, rather then the pins, which seem to be stainless or hardened steel. I would also think that, if swapping the bracket, a new wheel bearing would be needed as why fit the old one back in... That is just asking for it to fail! So, basically, I was wondering how difficult it is to do, how time consuming and how many hours labour a workshop would most likely charge, if anyone has had this changed. Also, after the job is done, would the tracking need setting? I would think it likely.

Yeh, that can be a pain... The worse thing is having ne replaced, without checking properly that the head needs skimming or not, due to warpage. If it does and you don't do it whilst all stripped down, it will just blow again. maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow, but one day soon and for the... Well, you get the picture!

I would guess he knows at least as much as the average car enthusiast, when it comes to replacing the part properly then. I guess it comes down to a duff part or an underlying issue. Mostly, I have heard happy results after changing the resistor so perhaps he got unlucky!

Sounds like someone has had a leaking tank/rad/pipes/etc (Not all of them but a leak or two) And has put in some "Barrs Leaks" Or something of that order. Not a total surprise, given the age of the vehicle so don't be overly surprised by this. It might be worth draining the coolant system and refilling with the correct coolant. Fill slowly, let the engine run a while and keep checking levels as if too low, it will throw up the red overheating light and worry you. Once completed, keep an eye on the level for a few weeks to see if there are any new leaks/issues. If the level stays static, the problem was most likely resolved. A small leak in the expansion tank may be worth swapping it out for a replacement as they can be purchased for quite a modest price and fitted quite easily, other pipes, etc, if not too soft and flexible, may seal ok with a product designed for that purpose. K-SEAL is supposedly a good product and often seals and continues to seal, AFTER a fluid change. Many other products that float around seeking a hole, will block it but will almost certainly be removed with a fluid change, especially if you do a thorough system flush. I would doubt that it was anything as worrying as a head gasket but cannot rule it out completely. If the fluid level is about right, put your hand over the opened expansion tank to fel for gas/pressure. (Not too hot an engine). You will expect some movement of fluid but NOT a huge gassy build up. Also, check the underside of the oil filler cap, for whitish gunk. If clean and no gas, I am sure the gasket was fine. Make sure you do your oil changes on time, use the correct grade and be sure to do the regen, if the light comes on. Don't put it off as it will go in to limp mode and need a forced regen, around £200!