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LED's will almost certainly look whiter and perhaps nicer but as mentioned, won't be brighter just because!! One thing to think of, though. When where the bulbs last changed as they loose a certain amount of fluorescence over time and may well be a lot dimmer then a nice new set of bulbs. Depending on the type of bulbs, you might get upgraded bulbs, too!

I have been toying with changing my steering wheel for a while s it is showing signs of wear, although still basically sound. I wanted to ask if anyone knows if the later Fabia steering wheel will be a straight fit or are they different centre boss sizes and/or different airbags? I have a standard soft plastic wheel and I have seen various different ones, some plastic, some leather and some with audio controls, etc. Now although I would like to operate the stereo from the wheel, it is not exactly tricky to reach to the dash, to raise/lower the volume so it is not the main consideration but if it is a simple task to find and fit the correct loom to do that, great but otherwise, I might just fit a leather one. If I need to only fit "Like for Like", I think I will hold back a bit longer as it is not THAT bad, yet! So, I have seen one from a 2013 Fabia (Non M?F, leather) and mine is a 2009 model. (Non M/F plastic). Would this fit my boss and airbag? Would a similar age M/F wheel be easy to set up or will it not work? Thanks for any help people can offer.

You could try the very cheap glue gun/sticks and a kind of bridge, with screw things on (Dent puller)... You hot glue the feet to the car, in the dent and then use the bridge bit to tighten the foot bit by bit, pulling it slowly. This kind of thing, I mean. (see below, copy and paste into eBay). there are many other types and models to choose from, success is by no means guaranteed! Car Body Dent Repair Kit Paintless Dent Puller Tool with Hot Melt Glue Gun Stick

You might find how to rebuild yours properly and sell it on again, given the colour rarity.

Piston broke? So am I! (Sorry)!

...Perhaps he wanted to keep the mod under the radar, so to speak. Might well be for insurance purposes. I think thomasaspin, you are getting in to serious modding here, rathe the needing help with a fix to a common issue, etc. think Chimaera's advice is well worth noting! Good luck with the project.I

I think you just remove the two screws and set of plug inserts to then pop it out.

I am sure they are the correct bulbs... Each side of the car has a pair of them so if one fails, you will have limited light at the back. The brake light bulb, signal bulb and reverse light bulb will all be different to these, though. The small sidelight bulbs at the front will also be these small W5W bulbs so its worth having a few spare ones!

Also, tell them you have "Consumer rights"... This is in addition to any warranty anyway. This is the fit for purpose issue and clearly, it was not, unless you thrashed the 🐴 off it!

Kinda why I wondered what he meant...

Did you try a genuine coolant temp sensor? On a different post about poor starting, someone mentioned cheap copies can be rubbish.

SKODA FABIA 6Y (MK1) 1999 - 2007 REAR BACK PLASTIC BUMPER BLACK 6Y6807421 On ebay, £25 but in the midlands. No idea where you are! Not sure you will find a cheaper one in the correct colour.

Just a thought, which may not be useful but I have seen on youtube, some Skoda audio equipment has its own code stored inside the casing. Worth a look as the guy may be able to unscrew the case and find it inside. The other option may be to ask a dealer to give it to you but they will want proof of ownership etc, which may be tricky as the unit is no longer in your car. They may not want to give it to either of you! They may also try to charge but it should not be more then a nominal charge, for their time. Also, whilst that might be the code, he may need to follow a procedure in order to install it anyway! His car might have his code installed so this might need over-writing or something. Hope you get it sorted.

I am popping an extra post here as I too, have had a great experience using one of the tool sets to repair brake caliper threads. Some of you will have seen and read (And possibly fell asleep) My messages on another post as I was asking about replacing the whole steering knuckle on my Fabia as the caliper brake is built in to it. So once again, as others may not have followed the knuckle post, I managed to find a set of repair tools for just £14.99 from an eBay seller called the_diy_shop Hopefully, if anyone is needing to do this, they might also save a few quid. I have seen slightly cheaper versions, with cheaper looking tools but this is a proper kit, with an RRP of close to £60. (Blue Spot tools). I had no instructions as most don't but found online, the instructions from Laser tools, which are near identical. If you can change brake pads and can operate (And have access to) A drill, you can almost certainly do this job yourself. Big thanks to Wino (Again), Zebedee2001 and other posters, who led me to these kits, via their posts.

Ill let the other motorists in the area know that, then! 😱

If you just type in fabia interior light, you will see them but there is also a seller selling a genuine VW/Skoda used one. They want £22 posted but if you mention they can be had for much less, new from China, I am sure they will lower that a little. That one came up straight away, when I typed that in! I just re-looked at yur picture and it looks like your light is a dark colour. is it not the usual grey version? They seem to be common but I know some cars had blackish roof linings and hence matching lights/sunglass holders.

Could also be a build up of dust and carp! I have had window switches that worked after a clean and they looked a bit dusty rather then greasy. As you say, worth a try.

That question sounds a little oddly-put! Are you asking if you can fit a cut-out switch to the car, to cut the power so as to prevent any danger/problems? There will be a rev limiter fitted as standard so if you go in to the red zone too much, it will cut the revs until they drop down, then ignite again and so on. There will also be what is commonly called the limp mode, whereby the engine detects a fault and retards the engine power, running on a very low power, with little acceleration etc. This is to help protect the engine and components from mis-use/damage whilst enabling you to drive home or to a workshop, to get the fault analysed. Yu will almost certainly get a warning light come up in this instance so don't try to thrash the car, unless you want a pelican! If that answers your question, great but also, if you meant can you fit a cut out switch in general, I would think you could do this to almost anything that uses an engine. It is just a question of if it will then go on to cause other electrical gremlins, etc so may be worth avoiding unless you know what you are doing! You could also fit an isolator to the battery negative terminal if you so wish. Switch this on and off when doing certain jobs on the car or to cut the power if needed. I am not sure how this will affect other systems if the car WAS running, though as I remember many years ago, someone scrapping a car, who started and warmed it up, then whipped off the battery to keep it, whilst the car was still running. This would have been a pre-ECU vehicle but it ran, albeit possibly without certain functions. An isolator like this will prevent the vehicle from being started by key but will also possibly upset any alarm fitted and stop the clock, lights, windows, central locking, etc from working until switched back on. Probably again, an idea for the workshop but in day to day work, not worth it. Might be worth having if you have the fan overrun issue some people have had, until it gets sorted!

I was gonna say sounds unlikely to be a bulb as, if its the same bulb layout as my car, there are FOUR taillight bulbs, two per side! Its a bit weird though, to use the same fuse for both left and right hand side of the vehicle as this will leave you totally un-illuminated in one go! As an aside and obviously it won't matter in this case but as RicardoM asked, "Based on what test"? Bulbs can and often do look perfectly fine but still be blown. Particularly if they are small bulbs, which are difficult to see the filament through. Don't rely on a visual inspection but use a tester or at least try swapping a good one for the one you think may be gone as it will then either light or not. You can even get intermittent bulb failure but it is less likely. Tends to happen more with LED bulbs, due to the circuitry involved. I also believe that symbol comes on when the brake light switch fails but it may be a different one. Cant remember. My car doesn't have the bulb blown warnings as some variants do or at least, not if its a single bulb.

Free postage Does looking at this help? Its an item for sale on eBay for around £12 but a Chinese seller so may be a copy of the original units. Dunno if it can go larger or if you look at their ad, to see if you can figure it out! Opens image gallery

It seems that there are differing units for cars with or without MFD features. I saw a seller in Germany advertising the same part number as I posted earlier, wanting around the mid £60's, for the part and they said "For cruise control cars and MFD cars only". (Paraphrasing). I am sorry to say, I think the one I posted first of all has been sold now, though. Was a bargain at the price! Looking at a few variants, apart from functions like cruise (Major) And MFD (Major) Some differences seem to be down to the writing/graphics on the stalks. Different cars throughout the VW range may use different images for lights and different type face so to speak, for the writing. This may be why there are so many variants, along with what was also called satin black. (Thought that was norm)!

Yeah, I mentioned that in my first post but worth reiterating.

Hi Tomsalmon. Sorry to see you have issues but I am now gonna blast you, too! You saw a puddle under the car, still drove without checks. Then, warning light came on, pulled over, saw coolant low but still some, then went OVER the speed limit? Are you crazy? The whole point of the warning light was to show you a fault and then, sort it or drive gently and carefully! It sounds like the car then went in to limp mode, to protect other elements of the engine/turbo system. You will be lucky not to have damaged far more then the initial issue. It sounds like Roottoot knows about this, from experience so take heed but also, take heed of stains on the road underneath your car, warning lights, etc. With any issue, drive more carefully. By all accounts, these cars are great fun to drive but costly and fragile, if abused. Best wishes with getting it sorted and sorry about the blast but it will pay off in the l;ong run, if noted and acted on!

...Get what you are saying Jars but I think most people refer to four well alignment as tracking... Hunter equipment is great, in the correct hands.

Yeah, uneven wear/tracking, etc will kill the tyre much quicker then normal. its cheaper to sort then keep buying new tyres!