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I dunno quite how it works but they do have a cut out system, for safety. It can kick in and make window winding difficult just from having something like tree sap on the glass. They become very sticky and the extra work needed to use the windows can cause them to stop or run funny. As for the door loom, they are very prone to snap so check them again and be sure they are not fractured and just working irregularly. Both sides, too. opefully, someone with better knowledge of the window motor system, regulator and convenience module thingy, will come along soon.

J.R. I have often thought about those "Butt plugs" (Ooh-err, missus)! I would have thought once in, they would be even better then the worms, even though they tend to be very effective. I could not open the info from AG Falco for some reason but looking at the title, I would think it is having a little "Dig" at the worms-system. I am fully informed of the knowledge that they are designated "For off road use only", but then again, so are many items that people happily fit/allow to be fitted to their vehicles and having spoked to "Off-roaders" about the use of worms, they have stated that they have had many last as long as the tyres and are as effective as a proper repair, if done properly and leak tested. You will almost certainly know if the air is escaping from one and they are really intended to get you there, so to speak. I would hold them in much higher esteem then the typical manufacturer supplied bottle of slop. If you must use slop, use a well know, branded version of PRE-installed slop, like Gloop, Tyre Slime, etc as they will work even before you know you need it and not leave you stuck at the roadside at midnight, trying to remove the valve core, squeeze in the slop, IF it is still in date, refer the core and pump up the tyre, with traffic thundering by at 70 MPH! Oh, Never had a worm fail apart from one, which allowed a very slow leak which was then repaired by a tyre fitter, at a cost of £15 and to add insult to injury, the guy didn't even balance the tyre! They stated that they "Do" cheap fixes for those who want it, and then charge extra to balance. I only realised after hopping up the A12 at higher speed and found a wobble. When I complained, that was when they stated the cheap fix. I said "How can it be a cheap fix, if you then want a further £7-8 quid to balance it"? I would have been better going to Kwik-Fit as at least I could make them do it again... Wont go there again!

Bear in mind, Skoda will use all genuine parts and they will have a two year warranty! If you are a regular or you had the car from them, they might just do a little better on the price, too.

I thought of either that or offer a local removal service, say in shop window or word of mouth, to anyone local who needed a wheel or a set of bolts removed. Just one job could pay for the tool.

I don't know the Bedford area but a trip down the M1 to London, off the A406 near woodford is a place called westside, if memory serves... Vw/Audi/Skoda specialists. Look them up, contact them and see if its worth the drive!

It was stated he was a mobile engineer but thats a big drive on top of a days work and drive home, again. You never know though as work might be hard to find in the current climate. He might even collect and fix, with you collecting upon repair. Might well be worth asking for details and if not, he may even have contacts in the trade. (I am feeling optimistic for you).

Silly question but have you checked the tyres are not rotational and on the wrong way round? Many tyres have a rotation arrow/marking and having them go the wrong way, is the wrong way to go! You may have accidentally swapped the left wheel for the right, so to speak. Easy to do, though.

Spotting this post, I also wanted to throw my hat in to the ring and suggest that, over the gloopy sh!t you get in the car, that has a limited life and only one use, you can buy a small-ish box of "Worms", that come with a reaming tool and an insertion tool, etc so as to fit the hole with the very sticky worm in order to get to a garage, etc. They are very effective as puncture repairs and I have even spotted, on many occasions, tyre repair shops using them as proper repairs. You might not get the "Big boy's" doing it as they will charge around £25 a puncture but the small, independent back street guy will. Keep a set in the boot and still save the weight/money of a wheel. Get a proper set, though, not the super cheap ones where the reamer or tool break first use. A solid set will last ages and the worms are easily replaced.

Wonky, that is the sort of thing I meant but they have more then you most likely need. Be sure to get the size need and perhaps a size or two extra in common used sizes but unless you plan to use it often, it will cost too much. I would shop at around the £20 mark. I think mine were from amazon in a yellow box. Blue Spot also do just a pair, in a blister pack (No plastic case to store them) So they will be good for a one-off job. I highly rated their brake caliper repair tool kit but have no experience of the bolt removal one.

Are you going the main dealer route?

I am very surprised with two different mech's looking at it that neither spotted what the third inspection revealed. Specially as you say you can pull the spring back and forth. Still, the tighter replacement bushes etc, may well have made the issue worse as everything else was then taught and responsive, leaving the real issue to work even harder, so to speak! Glad you found it and although it has been a painful, costly ride, you will most definitely benefit from all the replaced parts, once finished.

Wiring looms are a little pricey at around £80 a door but I think you may have had several sever! It is well worth checking both front doors, too as both can have issues, the driver side more so. Perhaps go to a decent auto electrician, if you are not too good with wiring as they are just a little fiddly and they may do a much nicer job. You could get away with just rejoining each wire with a crimping bullet/male and female bullet but be sure to crimp well, insulate afterward and check EVERY wire.

Just so you know, many garages, mechanics, etc charge to remove locking wheel nuts and down here in the Smoke, it usually starts at around £30 for the first wheel as a call-out. They then charge a lesser amount for each additional wheel, if you need all the bolts out. They will charge this even if they cannot remove the lock as some are made to "Spin" And you cannot grip them easily. Skoda (VW, etc) will most likely have a set of proper bolt removal tools so will not have much trouble but I have no idea how much they will charge. I found a nice little set of tools just for this job and again, it will only work on "Solid" bolts, not the ones with spinny outer sleeves but it cost around £20 and was delivered the next day. There are cheaper versions (And much, much higher, too) but I would positly avoid too cheap a tool as they need a lot of hammering and torque, to use. You will simply slip the closest size socket type tool from the set on to the damaged or tight bolt, hammer it on so it is quite tight, the use a ratchet to unscrew the bolt. The tool has a reverse-threaded inner and will get tighter as you unscrew the bolt, so it grips like an alligator grips a gazelle! The set will also have a solid metal rod, which you then use to knock the bolt back out from inside the tool, perhaps whilst holding the tool in a vice or somewhere tight and steady. Just thought I would mention, I had an issue with my daughters Yaris and they used to fit McGard wheel bolts. I contacted them to ask about a new bolt and they said the warranty on the key was "Lifetime" So I had to send my old damaged one back but within a week or two, they sent me a brand new replacement, just by looking at the returned one! This cost less then a second hand set of bolts. It may not help you as you damaged both the key and the bolt but it IS worth noting! I am unsure as to if this warranty is an industry standard but to replace a LOST key, they charge around £16-18. Delivered. This may need either the key code or a clear photo of a good, clean bolt.

Water pumps do fail and are recommended to be changed along with the cam belt. I noticed you say it is "Going in", I would be quite sure the gasket is needed before opening it up, unless you have had clear diagnosis. You DO have the clues but be sure it is not just the water pump first. I would think the head gasket doubles up the price of the job, to say the least!

Is your car drivable? You might be able to take it to him, possibly leave it a day or two and then collect upon happy repair. Just a thought.

I feel I must point out though, Whilst it can easily achieve high MPG on a decent run, with a gentle-ish driving style, the Greenie (again, 1.4L turbo diesel) Well typically return mid -40's to low 50's on MPG, with students driving and a more then average amount of slower speed, less well executed gear changes, manoeuvres etc.

I get the point of the reply from Jars but also wanted to say, the Greenline version of your car already had 80BHP, straight from the factory though I have no idea why it differed as I am sure the engine is the same. The Greenie had the DPF filter and longer gearing so having the extra few ponies may well have benefitted. I have also had a little work done previously and the guy said he also altered or "Tuned" the car to produce 90 BHP. Again, a modest upgrade but there upgrade from 70 to 90 may well be a worth it difference. I think you are lucky to get that mileage out of a gallon but extra power may drop it a little then again, a more powerful engine does less work so a fully laden car being driven gently, might be better off. Its mostly at speed and thrashing the motor where you will notice the difference in power AND fuel usage. Drive gently it will remain about the same, drive harder (And you may well want to) Use more fuel.

I have heard someone say connect earth, then live, then touch both (Not near the battery) To ground out any residual current. A little OTT but can't hurt. Otherwise, just the earth should suffice. (I think the touching of both cables is a method of wiping out any fault codes/errors on the dash as it drains any residual current left. It was stated as leave for ten mins).

The wiring in the door looms are regular culprits so well worth sorting or looking at closely for ANY electrical fault regarding the loom. Mirrors, windows, c/l, etc. Best wishes. Gary.

No, I posted a thread asking if a certain wheel would fit my car and my current airbag and whilst I got my answer, Someone purchased the wheel. I am hoping it was no-one here, saw my post and jumped in quick. Hope it was just coincidental that someone else happened to see and buy it.

Perhaps the best bet is to clarify with the main dealer, what part you need. Unless you have or can remove your existing stuff to match to...

...And don't let some pain in the airbag gazzump you and buy it prior to you doing so... That just happened to me and the one I was watching!

DOH! Some crackerjack has slipped in and purchased the wheel right from under my nose! I hope its not anyone here who knows I was seeking it, that would be adding insult to injury.

From what I have seen and heard, it only takes a bit of a low battery to do this. I think around 70% charge or less! This is most likely the norm on a five year old battery anyway!

Personally, I think the looks stale-wharted at the `fabia 2... After the, they just went too "Corperate", Too "Angular" and now, they look like they are trying to be Seat/Audi owners cars, not Skoda owners cars. Perhaps they know people can ill afford an Audi but want one. I wanted the Fabia when I had mine. Looked at it, looked at a Fiesta. Looked at the Skud, looked at a Citroen. Looked at the Skud and on it went. The Skoda had what I wanted, needed and I liked the overall shape and looks. A bit like the old Yaris. They then became something else, with the same name and kept nothing of the old car. I think this generation will appeal to those who want the aggressiveness of the VRs but not so much to the everyman/woman who liked the curves, etc of the MK 2. I wonder how many MK 2's were sold and how many MK 3"s, globally? I would think there was more MK 2's but I suppose some people always want the NEW shape!