mrgf

Not sure the ease of removing the stalk, the switch is easier then you'd think. Push in, twist clockwise quarter/half turn, pull out, if memory serves me right. New they are quite pricey but anything from a fiver up, on eBay. Be sure to get the correct matching one as some have front fogs, some don't. some have large rear plug, others have small rear plugs.

Does sound odd! Does the stalk "Feel funny"? When you do that, it kind of looks like the stalk is a bit floppy. They do feel a bit click but in a positive osrt of way. click on, click off.

ok so the switch could be the issue. Prob is I have lights with front and rear fogs so posting you that, wont help. (Thinking of trying first, to eliminate). Then if not that, the stalk. Edit, you posted that just as I sent my one. now it sounds a bit more like the stalk.

OK, check they are fitted correctly, though just for a starting point. You might JUST hear the motors flap if all is quiet and the engine is not on but its not easy.They should still FLASH (Pull towards you) Even when the ignition is off, key out. Have a look at the light switch, to see if the last owner has fitted an auto light switch. It will have a point saying auto. Sometimes, people get the thing wrong!

No age listed on your car but early versions (Pre facelift) Had projector bulbs and only one filament, with a shield that went up and down, blocking a percentage of the beam, on dipped, unblocking on full. Stand in front of the car to see if you can hear the flap/shield as your son switches from dipped to full. Check to see if any fuses are intact or the motors have failed or that the bulbs are fitted correctly. You do know the stalk is pushed forward, towards the dashboard, for high beam? Just pulling it to the steering wheel flashes the front lights, not turns them on. (Not as obvious as it sounds, my daughters Clio needed one pull to flash, a second to turn back off or they stayed on full).

On CP4LESS, Brembo pads for the Kodiaq are listed at the upper £70's mark and with the discount code, early £60's. That was the higher priced pads, BTW, Assuming you have the ability (You say you can do them), That £235 will buy the pads, new discs (On some models) a trolley jack, axle stands, a rewind tool for the calipers, wheel chocs, and a few beers after completing the task!

Phil-E was completely correct, I am afraid. If you look at your old existing lights, the projector bulb is on the inside of the light, nearer to the cars grille. On the replacements, they are on the outside, nearer to the cars wing (Fender). They are different in length, I believe, and hight as well as having different bulb connections. To fit them, you will need the newer car bonnet, wings, front panel, grille, and quite possibly many other components, along with new wiring etc. The simpler option is to import the proper lights you need as this will be easier and massively cheaper then changing everything! Unfortunately. you do not mention why you want to change them, either. Is it to increase the brightness or are they broken or damaged in some way? If damaged, I am sure you could easily course new or used replacements from Ebay or similar, same for brighter bulbs but they will only go slightly brighter, thats just how they are! I would now not waste any more time in trying to send the new lights back for a refund as they really, really will not fit your car. If they would have done easily, thousands of us would already have done it! Sorry about that!

Perhaps the system needs s good cleaning. I wold be careful what you use though as I used something like WD40 (Which I usually swear by) On my boot pop and afterwards, it just started going off like a machine gun, pop-pop-pop-pop until after a number of pops, it opened the tailgate. PITA. I had to fit a new one. I have often wondered if I had subsequently cleaned the old one up again with electrical contact cleaner, would it work properly!!! Put it in storage and never tried!

Its not just unplugging and plugging at the door, doing that at the battery should produce the same result, but looking at the wires inside the bellow as they have a very high tendency to snap/fracture. They might give limited operation if fractured but when snapped completely, there will be no circuit. Be sure to have nice clean glass as tree sap, etc can stick windows fairly firmly. Thats just a start and possible on any vehicle, particularly if you park under trees. Have you tried putting the key in the door lock and turning fully to either closed/locked or opened? Holding the key whilst doing this will open/close the windows as well as the door locks, if you hold it in the fully open/close position for a certain while. As soon as you let go and the lock barrel returns to the normal position, the window wills then stop moving. This might help determine if the window mechanism is working and it is a switch issue. The switches can and do get crap inside and sometimes will work again after a clean up but will sometimes need replacing. It may help if you put the exact model and your area location on your avatar space. This is a help in knowing the model you have, for future issues and location so someone might just be near you and offer some sort of assistance. They are a very helpful bunch of Briskodians here and often go ver and above the call of duty, to help another member. One of, if not the best forum I have come across!

As all seems to be working, try looking at the wiring inside the door loom, to see if any wires are fractured. They may be part fractured, giving a live feed, to a lesser degree. (Trying to give the voltage down some wires, whilst some of them are broken, might be harder work for the power to travel easily). If you find a fractured one, try pinching it tighter or fixing it, then see if the issue is still there. You could also try opening and closing the doors with the key in the door lock, going up and down with the windows, so you know you held on long enough.

...Sounds like a plan and an interesting thing to do. Hope you get it all done successfully

Just a thought but if after a certain time, the car tells you to change the key battery, it must base this on time/duration or something. Perhaps something in the owners manual states how to change the battery and turn off the indication that it needs swapping. It might be a little like the service check light/indicator. Otherwise, remove the main battery for a while and hope the stupid thing forgets how long it has been on the road!

In my experience, I didn't get charged for repairs or inspections for warrantied repairs, whilst my car was under warranty. Since then, I understand I will be charged as mentioned,for testing, with the repair including all or part of that fee, if done with them, at the same time. If however, you drive away, you just pay for the diagnostics. Unfortunately, you don't say how old the vehicle is, if you had it from new, if it was a warrantied used car, etc. These things can make some difference.

Did they do it under the warranty or sting you for a new one?

Is there not a rubberised pad under the tailgate somewhere? Most vehicles with one will sort of be hidden from veiw. Some cars have the boot logo swivel to open/reveal the pop mechanism. Some cars have a tailgate pop on the inside of the cabin, either on the door panel or next to the drivers seat, etc. Perhaps a look in the owners manual will help to locate a boot opening switch. I also saw a post somewhere, where you swing your foot under the bumper, to activate a remote boot opening action. You then have to step back to allow it to open fully without getting a smack in the cake-hole!

I would think so. They would keep it the same if you lowered the size but add the higher rate if you fitted a bigger lump. Of course, there is always the option of not saying anything but it carries certain risks. Perhaps the best option is to contact them direct, prior to starting any work.

I would have thought you would need just a little movement so as not to have the clutch on the edge of disengaging... A half way decent clamp is fairly cheap and easy to source and usually made of plastic so I would think it would not damage the hose more then the internal pressure would, if you see what I mean. I am sure you don't drive with your foot slightly resting on the clutch lever as many inexperienced drivers do. This is a guaranteed clutch killer.

You can get insurance companies who specialise in modified vehicles and they base prices on the fact that as you go to so much effort to undertake certain mods, you are more likely to look after the vehicle and drive it safely. The DVLA will most likely look at any changes and seek some sort of proof from say VOSA or something and then charge you what was the higher of the two taxable classes. That said, I remember some years ago, a motorcycle magazine claiming that you could buy a certain old British bike that was now zero tax rated and in time, change the frame, the wheel, the engine etc for much newer gear, due to modular design or ease of transfer of bits, etc and eventually end up with a new(ish) bike, with modern engine, no oil leaks better handling, faster, still registered as a classic. I have an inkling though, that on older cars classed as classics, there should not be significant changes made, in order to keep the classic status. Rebuild, renovate etc but you can't just change the whole car. I guess the bit by bit approach though, may go unseen, once the engine has been recorded.

Not sure in particular but generally, that mileage will be quite likely to need bushes, possibly many, in certain areas. Some owners swear by poly bushes if you can get them.I would also expect the battery to be worn out, if not replaced. In genreal, the Fabia is a fairly reliable piece of machinery.

Now, where is that teacup.. Its started thundering out there!

? Thats a weird one! Perhaps series from bursting for a leek. Is it just a Sally? Cockney slang usually consists of two words, with only the first one given.. Sally, being Sally Ash- slash (Wee-Wee). Apples, being apples and pears - stairs and so on. The confusion was intentional.

Also, I was lead to understand a dealer was supposed to disclose any KNOWN faults or accident/repair, etc whereas a private seller can remain tight lipped. I guess the main thing there though is the term KNOWN... If they were unaware themselves, its a different ball-game and unless proof could be given that they knew! If you informed them of the faults you spotted, they do now know, even if they did not disclose them to you. It is a bit of a minefield!

Sally Ash, Slash!

...I have put petrol into my diesel twice, in the ten years of ownership/150,000 miles. Apart from feeling like a berk, having to slash the cash to get the tank drained, along with the lost time and having to fuel up again, no lasting problem. The RAC do the draining, put a can of clean fuel and a cleaning additive in, check it over and advise you to swap out the fuel filter. (Cheap and easy on my car). Both times, I was busting for a Sally and pulled up at the fuel depot where they sort of mirror the pumps. That is to say, as you reach the first set, they go petrol, super petrol, diesel, super diesel. Then drove through them to the second back and it all goes the other way, super diesel, diesel, super petrol, petrol. The lack of attention whilst bursting, meant I did not spot that and grabbed the wrong filler. Real lesson learned? If you need the toilet, go first, prior to filling up, then fill whilst relaxed! Trying to think which garage brand it was, BP, I think and why they alternate. If I was a sceptic, I would say to catch people out! I just the other day helped a stranded elderly lady out, pushing her car across a major junction as she broke down right at the lights and made getting past a pain, in rush hour. After promoting her to se what may have happened, I discovered she too, had mis-fuelled. The penny had not yet dropped and she was calling the RAC at the time, amid furious road users. It was only after I asked if she had fuel and she said she just filled up, on her way home, I asked to see her receipt and she put diesel in her petrol car. I advised her to tell the RAC as they may send the wrong help, otherwise, doubling her wait. I also told her, when I did it, the mechanic told me he spends all day doing mis-fuelled vehicles and the stats are really and I do mean really high, for people doing it. Still, keeps the Government in duty. Apparently, a little diesel in a petrol, you can just keep topping up again with petrol, which will thin out the diesel, drive 20 miles or so, top up, keep doing that. It will smoke a little but should be ok, driven gently. The big alarm bells you hear regarding damage, seem to be slightly over-egging the pudding. In most cases, you just come to a halt.

In two years, I'd expect it to be that grubby. Most likely lots of crumbs/debris in the quiltng, too! If its the same as a Fabia, they are very economical to replace from ecp, cp4l and the like, specially with a discount code. Once a year is the best bet.