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They were a standard fitment on the lesser-spotted Greenline. They are indeed, just stuck on with 3M tape. They will most likely buckle, if you remove them clumsily but careful removal will make them re-usable. That said, they were only £40-ish, a full set, from the dealer. I also believe they were available singularly, in case of damage.

I think that would depend on the switch... WD will clean and lube. Some switches will be more then happy with that but some won't (Boot pop, for example-hates oil and will fail if you lube it). Some oil-based cleaners will leave residue which will conduct electricity fine and prevent water ingress. There is, of course, the possibility of oil-based cleaners getting contaminated again, with dust and the suchlike so its really a choice. Spray on graphite used to be great for locks, etc but is a pain to obtain, for some reason. I use the powder one now, on locks. WD40 claims to be great for locks, switches and 100's of other things.

Hi Carolla. I am very sure the dealership should have evacuated the old fluid and fully replaced it with new stuff. Imagine if leaving the old contaminated fluid damaged a perfectly good rack within the two year warranty... They would have to then re-fit ANOTHER new one, in order to fulfil their obligation so, no, I sincerely do not think the would have left the old fluid in, unless they were looking for trouble! As for smelling fruity... Screen wash often smells fruity and is often clear. Make of that what you will! I think Skoda (VW) steering fluid is usually green. EDIT... Following on from that, i just read a post a few down on the fabia site and someone else had steering issues. It turned out they had water inside the pump/rack or something so perhaps yours was a combo of fluid and water. (Technically called gunk)! I still think the fitter of the rack should have changed the complete fluid and tested for leaks but if the pump failed AFTER the event, thats life.

...Following on from that, I thought it was now common practice, to have ancillaries such as lights, audio, etc switch themselves off after around an hour, if left on accidentally. Most things that require change need to be done via vcds or at least, used to be. I am only familiar with the MK2 Fabia but another simple-ish step to take, might be to retro-fit an auto lights headlight switch. Stick it on auto function and Bob's your mothers brother.

Before trying anything, do you mean they won't unlock with the key or the remote? Skoda's (And many other VW branded cars) Are quite prone to wires snapping inside the door bellow. Could be either front door and even the back (Not heard about them so much). A good, close up look at the door loom wires for snapped ones is needed and free, if you can do it yourself. This can stop the remote from locking/unlocking, windows opening/closing, mirrors/heaters from operating, etc. You could do a "Fix" on any broken wire otherwise a new loom could be around £80 a side, to buy.

...Could try one of those flexible, extendable tools with a little magnet on the end. They look like an old fashioned arial. Just the small, round magnet though as some have a box-y square-isn shaped thing that will most likely snag. Shove it in and all around the hole. The metal will most likely be magnetic. (Try it first on one that is still there). Just found an actual tool for this... You can find them on eBay etc. Laser Tools 7144 Roof Grab Handle Release Tool - VAG There are also other brand versions available for about a tenner.

...Perhaps you actually dropped it and its been sitting under the seat ever since! Funny way to clip in, though. Looks like they must use a kind of plier, clamp type of tool, perhaps made specifically for this type of clip. If so, it may well be quicker for a techie to remove then a common or garden, screwed on type, where you need to unscrew a pair of screws.

Sounds more like the accelerator sensors or something to me. These have a drive by wire system so use electronic signals to tell how much throttle is being used. If its up the creek, it may be staying open. When they say an engine overhaul, do you or they perhaps mean a service? This in itself would not surprise me.

Hi, and welcome... Firstly, it might be handy to list the version of Fabia you have and more importantly, the radio model. Some have say, a dance radio but others may differ. This will help anyone who has knowledge of that particular model.

I have the common or garden version in the Fabia, which is my school car (Driving tuition) In my Yaris, I have a K&N panel filter, which is supposedly good for 100,000 miles. I think it could do with a clean and an oiling now so I will get round to doing it sometime soon but as it is running fine, I am in no hurry. I did have a little foulage of the MAF sensor after fitting but cleaned it and all was well and remained so. As that car is driven mainly by my daughter, I was not worried about the cleaning process taking the car off the road for the day but if I was tempted to fit one to the Fabia, I would almost certainly keep the older paper filter, just to pop back in whilst cleaning the K&N. As you said though, for around £7, just to pop a new one in is much easier.

...It can do, Mr Fisher, if there is too much oil on the filter. Its been noted that oil can affect the sensor but it can often be cleaned, with proper cleaning spray. The internal fine wire is extremely sensitive so can easily become dirty or get damaged. Often a replacement is the only way but they are usually a lot cheaper on ECP or CP4L type sites, with a discount code and quite easy to change on a Fabia. Mr Crow, I liked the pencil up the pipe trick... I have personally swapped the filter on my Skud at least five times in its life and never had an issue with priming or bleeding and only minimal leakage. Its a bit messy, sure but simple to do. The pencil trick is similar to blocking up an air pipe, say, with a bolt and a jubilee clip.

...Trimmy, if its the same pipe and you are perhaps not driving with the least, you could just try taking off the leaky bit and take that to a car workshop/motor factor. Ramotswa stated no leakage so perhaps just a bit of rag, or a poly bag, etc to smother the open pipe. (I am assuming you have a diesel).

Surprised to see you using engine braking as much as possible! Unless of course, you mean coming off the gas and letting the car slow down over a longer distance. The old school method of using gears to slow down, change down again to slow more, etc has really been outmoded since the 70"s. Using the brakes to slow is much safer as it allows others to realise you are slowing, whilst wearing out relatively cheap components, whereas using the "drop a gear" method adds wear and tear to a fairly expensive bit of mechanics, along with the lack of rear brake light warning. Cant be good!

I dunno of built in ones but its easy to find a pillar mounted pods... Ebay start from around a fiver, from Chinese suppliers (Might be few weeks wait). UK ones start around £6.40. Have a look at the link and see if thats good enough, then find the gauge, if not already sourced. (You may need to copy and paste it, rather then just tap on it). 52mm 2" in Universal Auto Car Single A-Pillar Pod Hole Mount Gauge holder Cup The benefit of this type is the ease to fit AND to remove.

Some cars have an optimum gear change indicator, which flicks on to prompt you to change gear. It may be for economy, sportier driving, etc but is just a guide. Perhaps this is what the car is telling you... You may be labouring the engine and not in the optimum gear for the driving speed/style. I would suggest you swat up a little on the owners manual to see if this is just a guide/prompt from the car, before worrying too much. Modern ECU's often also adjust themselves to recognise certain driving characteristics so as to be more responsive and in tune with the driver. This often gets "Lost" And will reset after a few hundred miles, if the battery/electrical power has been disrupted. Just for clarification, this is a manual, and not a semi-automatice or similar? I am unfamiliar with Octavia's per-se, but a fully manual gearbox will have a proper clutch. You can have what seems like a manual gearbox but will require no clutch pedal... This is still classed as an automatic.

...Theres a slight possibility that you might be able to spray a bit of WD40 or similar, into the switch area, let it penetrate and then try switching the lever through its movements a few times, perhaps with ignition off, so as to let the cleaning/lubing take effect. Then try testing the functions again. Otherwise I would agree with the need to replace the switch. I would almost certainly think the switch was to blame as other functions seem ok. I would not suspect fuses unless the intermittent had a separate one, but it could also be dodgy terminals say, on the motor itself. If you are not mechanically minded, removing the steering wheel, along with the airbag etc, may be worth leaving to a mechanic or someone you trust.

To follow on from that, they usually drain when the door is open so if you don't open them frequently, you may need to be more vigilant in making sure you do so, particularly after a heavy rain fall or a car wash, etc. Once open, you should see any excess water drain from the underside of the door in question. If not, have a close p look and make sure the holes are clear.

Perhaps it was that, obstructing the free flow of the belts mech!

Yeah, thats the Fabia facelift (1.2). The Greenie non facelift had no option....I am actually surprised that the VRS variant doesn't actually come with all round "Leccy" windows... The Greenie was meant to more eco-friendly but i can't see power windows weighing more then windy ones and I think ALL Fabias, along with nearly every new car now, has powered front windows. The Greenline was also fairly high priced for a 1.4 variant.

...I am actually surprised that the VRS variant doesn't actually come with all round "Leccy" windows... Particularly as the option was not that much, from new. Around £180, if memory serves. I wanted it but they had no option for it, on the Greenline. I should have refused to buy without it! The dealer said they could retro-fit it but it would cost a chunk more then the list price... I could not be bothered at that point. Oh, MickMartin, it may well be worth a quick look at the other side, as well. They do have the tendency to break. I have used either the little block connectors or crimped male/female terminals, with shrink-wrap slid across. Does the job but new would be better. Around £80-odd quid a side, though!

...I think your engine is very similar to mine. If so, the fuel filter is quite a simple swap, with a small amount of mess and no need to bleed the diesel system at all.

Nothing stops you from keeping receipts and filling in the history yourself. Obviously the next owner may not be as confident but lets be blunt... Any run of the mill car on the road today, around ten years old and a service history is debatable, anyway. Add to that, a loving owner who does his/her own may spot issues and fix them and will most likely do the job they said they would do, for their own benefit. You rely on trust when you allow someone else to do the job. I had several genuine services, where the dealer said they topped up screen wash, for example, despite me knowing it was full to the brim. Now the techie MAY just have looked and thought he did it, or the person making up the bill thought they had, but no fluid was added so I got charged for the time and trouble, along with the cost of the fluid, just for someone to look and see it full!

Oh, Geof, it may well be worth changing the cabin filter, too unless done recently. They get surprisingly grubby.

All a bit weird but yeah, they will add a month all but a day to an MOT if you do it a day under a month before it expires but then the date changes, if you do it too soon! As for what Wino said, I either missed or they adde the info about it being a kind of rolling date to have the MOT extended. I did try to do mine a few days prior to lockdown, whilst I still had a bit left but my garage were not undertaking them and gave me the heads-up about the extension. It was not then quite official but they told me HGV vehicles had already had an extension and other vehicles were almost certainly going to be included. The funny thing was, my original MOT was due November but someone hit my door, denting it and breaking the mirror. This was enough for the insurance of the third party to say the car was a write-off and paid me accordingly. A different door, mirror and paint later and all back to normal although my insurance asked for an MOT, and a receipt copy, in order to ensure the work was done fairly. (I got the MOT, the door, mirror, etc, along with my bonnet painted due to small dent and wheels refurbed, still for half the insurance pay out)!

Following from Wino, you can go to the gov MOT check site and pop your own reg no. in and it will tell you when your vehicle is due its next MOT. (Mine says Oct,2nd, despite the current one running out in April). I just checked my other car, which runs out 2nd July, and at present, the site still says its due then so I am unsure as to if they will still extend MOT's or if it will only be for the ones already expired from march till May, etc. Well worth checking, to be sure as I think this thing may well catch a few people out and no MOT is now a £1000 fine AND penalty points on the licence. Back in the day, it used to be a punitive £10 fine, no points... It was cheaper to get caught, then to undertake the test! That check will put your mind at ease, one way or the other. The link is below, if it works ok. https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk