Cledwen

Have the same problem of faulty sensors and saw the same kit and nearly bid on it too but when I viewed the enlarged photos saw the part numbers were different so decided to give it a miss. The correct sensor part numbered are 3U0 919 275 suffixed either by A or B. Hope they do work for you, only way to find out is to plug one in to try it I guess. Good luck

Similar subject recently discussed on the Octy group http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/157157-xenon-adjustment-cannot-connect-to-55/ Try what it suggests and let know how you go on

Take a look at this site : http://audi.kris-hansen.com/upper_control_arms.htm Though it's for a B5 platformed VAG group car it's a useful walk through and there is a link to show how to measure the control arm angle. I'd make my own measurements from my car before starting though and copy these for the new arms

This is the method I tried : http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233225 which resulted in the threaded end breaking off - it just stretched and snapped, that is when I tried drilling it. So if you had found this it may not and thought about trying this method it isn't foolproof

Ended up replacing the leg on the offside of mine when I had to replace the upper arms on that side, needed the bearing and hub too :'( Tried drilling it out and didn't get it dead centre so my own fault. When the inevitable happens and I eventually have to do the other side I'm going to remove the leg and take it to an engineering company to press / drill it out. A friend who is a trained VAG technician generally removes the leg, runs a grinder through the slots, twists / breaks off both ends and then with a large lump hammer and drift spends around 2 hours trying to get the remainder out !, so there is no 'magic dealer trick' Just a crap design and choice of materials. On the leg I replaced I smothered it in copper grease and every 6 months I've removed and cleaned it and it comes out a treat - as roto says it's a 10 minute job. Remember when you replace the upper arms you won't be able to tighten the mounting bolts when the car is on it's wheels as the bolts are inaccessible, VAG have a measurement from the top mount to the arm from a certain point so you don't load up the bush too much.

You'll need access to VAG-COM or have to visit a dealer to get them adjusted I'm afraid. You need to access the relevant control module (55 I think) to get them to move to their datum position, the control module uses this for reference so it knows where the lights are. Once in the datum position you manually adjust the aim, when adjusted you confirm the change and it's done. Before you do this make sure the light is seated correctly on it's mounts

Shared with the Passat so available at VW if more convenient to you : Rain channel that runs over the pollen filter - 3B2 819 979 £3.09 + VAT Clips that hold the pollen filter in place - 3B0 819 817 46p + VAT each (I think there are two originally) Windscreen scuttle panel - 3B2 819 415 EB £12.27 + VAT

Recently done the seal fix too, managed to break the clip on the channel when I took it out so have just replaced mine, sourced at the local VW garage as the Skoda garage is 20 miles away. If anyone is interested it is a shared part with the Passat and the part # is 3B2 819 979 and is around £3.09 + VAT and the clips that hold the pollen filter in place are part # 3B0 819 817 and available for the princely sum of 46p + VAT each (I think there are two originally) Also had to replace the scuttle panel as there was a big crack in the centre (think the previous owner had the battery out without removing the panel and the V6 battery is huge) and the panel should really come off to get it out - the part # for this is 3B2 819 415 EB and £12.27 + VAT (this is the part number for the black panel, apparently there is grey available so make sure you order the one you want)

Kids away during the bank holiday weekend with the in-laws and bored I was looking around on the internet at all things Superb and somehow stumbled on this thread on passatworld http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116118&highlight=sport+mode and was intrigued to find out that the Tiptronic box has a ‘sport mode’. Having never been too happy with the auto box and the way it shifts (all fluids changed and box ok) I thought I’d look into it more. Just some background first, it seems that the Tiptronic box comes from the factory with DSP (Dynamic Shift Programme) enabled and the Tiptronic strategy set to ‘New’. In summary : DSP The DSP senses your driving style and adjusts the shift pattern to it. Pottering around I often found that the car would seem to change up a little earlier than I would like would seem to be under more load than necessary i.e. in a manual car I would not have changed up. In the Skoda Manual DSP is explained thus : Dynamic shift programme The automatic gearbox of your vehicle is controlled electronically. Shifting up and down through the gears is performed automatically on the basis of pre-defined driving programmes. Adopting a moderate style of driving will cause the gearbox to select the most economical driving programme. Shifting up into a higher gear as soon as possible and shifting down as late as possible will have a favourable effect on your fuel consumption. Adopting a faster style of driving with rapid movements of the accelerator pedal combined with sharp acceleration and frequent changes in speed, exploiting the top speed of the car or operating the kickdown function, will cause the gearbox to switch over to the sporty driving programme. Shifting up later into a higher gear makes it possible to fully exploit the power reserves of the engine. The gearbox also then shifts down at higher engine speeds than is the case for the economy-oriented programmes. Selecting the most appropriate driving programme for the particular style of driving is a continuous process. Irrespective of this it is, however, possible to switch into a sporty driving programme by depressing the accelerator rapidly. The gearbox shifts down into a lower gear matching the speed of the car and this allows you to accelerate rapidly (e.g. when overtaking) without having to depress the accelerator pedal fully into the kickdown range. The original programme will be reactivated to match your particular style of driving once the gearbox has shifted up again. When driving in hilly regions, the gears are selected to match uphill and downhill sections. This avoids the gearbox frequently shifting up and down when negotiating an uphill stretch. Depressing the brake pedal while driving downhill causes the gearbox to shift down into the next lower gear. This makes it possible for you to exploit the engine braking power without the need for shifting gears manually Therefore turning this off would effectively switch to the [sic] ‘sporty driving programme’ Tiptronic Strategy Ever noticed when you're driving, using the tiptronic, that when you down change for a corner, hit the throttle on the apex only to find the box downshifts to a lower gear – this is the ‘New Strategy’ in operation. I personally don’t like this and the ‘Old Strategy’ removes this and holds the selected gear, it also allows the box to get the engine closer to the red line under hard acceleration before forcing an upshift. So preamble over and after reading through the thread a few times, armed with my laptop and VAG-COM I thought I’d have a play. Sorry, wanted to add screenshots here but struggling to do that - if anyone wants these drop em a PM and I'll create a pdf and forward it on. Open up VCDS and click the ‘Select Control Module Button' Click the ’02 - Auto Trans’ Button Click the ‘Coding - 07’ Button You will be presented with the current coding of the gearbox control module, my car was originally set to ‘01103’ which, going by the help in VAG-COM, indicates : Byte 1 0 - Always zero Byte 2 1 - Tiptronic Buttons/ Paddles installed Byte 3 1 - New Strategy Byte 4 0 - DSP Active Byte 5 3 - FWD (Rest of World) Standard caveat here, if you do plan on changing any coding make a note of the original so you can revert back and I won’t be held responsible for any damage to anybody elses car etc. Now my car has the optional sports pack and has no steering wheel buttons (3 spoke wheel) – not sure if the 4 spoke wheel does so I set that to ‘0’. I wanted to select the old tiptronic strategy and turn off DSP so I ended up putting in ‘00013’ Byte 1 0 - Always zero Byte 2 0 - Tiptronic Buttons/ Paddles not installed Byte 3 0 - Old Tiptronic Strategy Byte 4 1 - DSP Inactive Byte 5 3 - FWD (Rest of World) Click in the Software Coding box and update the string (remember 5 characters with the first always zero) Then click ‘Do It!’ You can then close the controller and VCDS. Go for a test drive and see what you think. It will never equal the 'S' button on my old 9-5 Aero for changing the characteristics of the car but my first impressions are that the car is more spritely with it changing to my mind more in line with how I would expect it to. It’s too early to tell but my average mpg doesn't seem to have suffered.

WD40 though technically not a penetrant should be OK and is often used as such, at then end of the day it's better than nothing

V6 TDI £10.85 - Oil Filter (059 115 562) £ 1.26 - Sump Plug (N90 813 202) £52.00 each - Front Brake Disc (8E0 698 151J) £58.68 - Front Brake Pads (4B0 615 301C) £ 9.31 - Wipers (non aero - 3A1 955425A) £11.45 - Wipers (non aero - 3A1 955 425) - can't remember which is near and offside £24.57 each - Rear Brake Disc (4A0 615 604A) £28.00 - Rear Brake Pads (8E0 698 451K)

Just had exactly the same problem with mine, and it was two glow plugs - I guess they've been getting a good workout through the winter and the weaker ones gave up. One was open circuit and the other close to being out of range when I tested it - if you have a multi tester you can find out how to test them on the internet whilst in situ. I replaced all 6 (just me being OTT with maintenance and getting a good deal from TPS) and I have no smoke on start up and no lumpiness when cold. Easy access (front right a bit tight to get to though) You'll need a 10mm deep socket, a universal joint (for the front right unless you want to remove the part of the inlet manifold that obstructs it), associated ratchet and extensions and something to aid getting the terminal covers off (I used long nose pliers). I read on the internet that the V6 suffers from the glow plugs being seized so after removing the leads I gave them a squirt of penetrating fluid and left them while I had a brew. I blew out the recesses, with an air line, to get rid of the penetrant and they all came out with no issues though I was careful when initially loosening the plugs. Be careful when putting in the new plugs and hand tighten as much as you can so you don't risk cross threading the plug. Tighten to approx 18-20nm, all in less than an hour start to finish (and that includes the brew)

Not sure about anybody else's experience with this spec Mobil 1 but I put it into my V6 and the engine developed an appetite for it (1l in 1500miles), I switched back to VAG Quantum 507 and the oil is still on the MAX mark after 2000 miles

If you fancy a drive to Wrexham I'll do it for you, drop me a PM

I know you've said you'll look into the tax side of it but do it sooner rather than later as it may make the decision for you. I was in Australia in 2005 and was deliberating about staying permanently and shipping out cars etc until I researched the car tax situation. Look at this link : http://www.aaa.asn.au/touring/bringing.htm#carnet The shipping was reasonable priced but when you calculate the cost of the carnet it makes it very expensive. The Australian government are trying to discourage the import of cars for profit.

According to their site : "The ETC (Electronic Throttle Control), which is also known as Drive-By-Wire, has the unfortunate downside of delayed response and subdued acceleration, which can create problems in certain situations such as up-hill starts, quick gearchanges and overtaking" So if it is to get around the 'delayed response' does it have a crystal ball to establish when you're going to press the accelerator and tell the ECU you're going to press it, before you do, so you don't get the delay. Again (I suspect) another resistor chip that is going to confuse the ECU and potentially cause other running 'features', I'll be keeping the moths in my wallet

Though a bit skittish on the compacted ice my auto 2.5 V6 has done me proud coming from North Wales to Bicester. A couple of neighbours (C Class Merc, 3 series - RWD) got stuck last night on my street which has only a shallow incline (you'd struggle to roll a ball down it). I towed the Merc out with 'the barge' and managed to get the 3 rolling with a bit of coaxing . Couldn't even try the a couplle of clicks on the handbrake with the Merc to try and apply a bit of lock to the spinning wheel as its got an electric handbrake so its either on or off and the ESP spat the dummy when trying to drive with it on. As I always say RWD is fun in the sun but useless when it gets wet or slippy.

Just in case anyone is interested I've just added a walk through on setting the pump timing in the VAGCOM section http://briskoda.net/diagnostics-vag-com/superb-v6-tdi-injection-pump-timing-walkthrough/159816/

Though the web is a great thing for researching something prior to undertaking a task, sometimes you cannot find all the detail you need in one place. Case in point is setting the timing on a V6 TDI Superb. For a number of reasons I wasn't convinced my pump timing was correct and wanted to check it so VAGCOM in hand here's my walk through. I've created a pdf rather than try and mess about posting pics. Hope it helps any fellow forum members out there. If I've made any mistakes let me know and I'll update the pdf Print the attached, remove your engine cover and off you go Skoda Superb Pump Timing.pdf

Thought I'd try and remove my EGR valve and give it a clear out. Nothing wrong with it, as far as I know, but the car has done 117K and I'm gradually doing jobs around the car and this is next on the list. I know if it ain't broke don't fix it but I'm a mad tinkerer Having removed the engine cover to remove this thing it looks like the most awkward PITA to remove :(. Two allen bolts, on top, easy to get to but the hex nuts underneath seem completely inaccessible. Has anybody here done it themselves and have any tips, know of a walkthrough anywhere on the net or suggest tools to get to the hex bolts (the pipe to the exhaust doesn't look any easier to remove) ?

Black 2005 2.5TDi Elegance, solid alloys and factory sports kit (111k), a convert from Saabs and wishing I'd discovered the Superb earlier

Did you price them up ? I take it the prices were eye watering :eek:

I think the 3 spoke wheel is correct for the car, I did manage to download a Skoda brochure from 2006 / 07 and the 'Sports package' has the 3 spoke wheel, chrome tailpipes and steel foot pedals. My car does not have the pedals but the pic does show a manual car So that'll explain the tailpipe, but now begs the question " where's my nice steel pedals"

With summer kicking in I want to make sure that the condensor drain holes are clear. Can any of you point me in the right direction as to where I find it / them ? I've cleared out the plenum drains but I suspect the AC drain plugs are elsewhere

Ok, so I'm probably going to get shot down here but having been told I have a duff TRE, I decided to change the offending side. In my haste to change it I bought a non OE (Partco - Unipart - more convenient than mail order) track rod end and after a good soaking in penetrating oil and leaving for a day (sometimes patience works ) I've changed it. I measured everything I could with my digital vernier caliper and am unable to get the same raised toe setting I had with the original, when I tighten the end bolt the steering arm hits the end of it's travel before I reach the previous setting. Now here's my question do I bin it and purchase a new OE / GSF TRE or get another and change the other side to give it the same raised toe on both sides ?? For extra info the car apparently had a new rack in January, I have had the tracking done - not RT) so the raised toe may be out anyway. I've done a fair amount of research about the logic behind VAGs use of raised toe ... In summary : 'The idea behind this unusual setup is to cancel out all torque steer and to provide extremely precise handling' ... but am unable to find anything definitive about the cons of having different settings on both sides / incorrect toe. Suggestions please