Cledwen

Had the same issue with mine last winter, smoky start and coughing and spluttering until there was some heat in the cylinders. You can check the plugs in situ if you have a multi tester. Check the resistance (ohm rating) on each plug, they should all be around the same. I had 4 that were ok (0.004 - 0.005), one was 0.814 and the other was open circuit (infinity) therefore duff. Being the saddo that I am I replaced all 6 and normality was restored. Give them a good soaking in penetrant before trying to remove as they are 10mm and can snap off (somebody on here ended up having to have their head(s) removed to fix a snapped plug. The front nearside one is a bit difficult to get to as the inlet manifold is in the way but can be removed with the socket (deep 10mm) and a universal joint. Just take your time

My 2005 V6 Tip is only around the £235 mark and like all cars before Marchish 2006 came under the old PLG taxation scales with the max set where primey's Phaeton and the V6 TDi fall. My car has just turned 139K, has never missed a beat with 38mpg over the long term and is a great car. Sorted the pollen filter before the water ingress design flaw created problems and all the other niggles that can befall the Superb. Not sure if I've made the right decision but I'm off to the dark side (Audi A8) so I'll be putting it up for sale soon - will be sad to see it go.

My Tip V6 behaved yesterday driving to Birmingham and back (-3 when I left) , when was you box fluid last changed ? Last year when I left one day at -15 it was fine too. If your fluid has been changed was the VAG spec fluid used ?

Same problem here, I did think I was going to have to remove and clean the mechanism but this tip fixed it (not sure where I found it) Pull the belt out fully and carefully from a distance spray Mr Sheen (other silicone based polishes are available ) along its length then give it a wipe with a cloth. It only needs a very light application DO NOT spray loads onto the belt. It may need one or two applications - remember less is more. Did this over a year ago in mine and they still retract nicely.

You'll be extremely lucky to get the system to prime and purge after changing the filter. I usually have to bleed mine. There are bleed screws on the filter top and on each injector (brass / copper coloured). Using an 8mm spanner get somebody to crank the motor whilst you open the bleed screw on the filter, only open it a fraction and have a rag wrapped around the screw to stop it spraying everwhere. Once full crack open an injector at a time, whilst the engine is being cranked, on the bleed screw (rag wrapped around the injector), The right hand bank is a pain to get to but all in it should take no more than 5-10 mins. The injectors can be cracked off with a 17mm spanner on the main feed pipes. Where the pipes goes from the filter to the pump (close to the back of the V on the left) a section of the line is clear, you're aiming to purge all the air from the system and can see it here.

Coming up to 140K (so just run in ), uses no oil between changes and going strong. Since I bought it at 105K I've had to replace a few suspension items (damn that pinch bolt) but other than that it's just had services and tyres. I change the auto fluid every 20K too. I think they'll have to bury me in this

TPS are only about 10% cheaper than over the counter at a Skoda dealer. Remember TPS' remit is specifically around consumables and service parts and that is where they are cheap (40-50%) off of list. On "Normal" non service parts TPS are not much cheaper than being cheeky at a dealer and asking for a discount

Can anybody help me with a wiring diagram(s) from a Superb, specifically one that details anything in and out of the diagnostic port (preferably something published by VAG as opposed to Haynes) I took up the opportunity of a free STS with the recent Shark Performance Group Buy and popped in to see Ben, when in the area, to collect my STS. Despite being busy he was kind enough to offer to load up my new map there and then and that's where the fun and games began. Long story short, Ben had a nightmare of a job getting the STS and his hardware to communicate properly with the ECU through the diagnostic port (would read but not write properly and at the time Ben suspected there may be a power issue as the STS box backlight flickered - my battery is new and we even hooked it up to his charger). In the end Ben removed the ECU and managed to flash it directly. Ben has mapped Superbs in the past and not come across this issue before. Doing it this way makes the STS redundant, which defeats the object of having it. I'm now wondering if there is something amiss with the wiring between the port and the ECU or power to the diagnostic port and was hoping to get a wiring diagram so I can do some checks. Any help would be appreciated

My car is the 163 (or 120KW) auto. I've just driven 100 miles, early start (avoid the traffic) to meet a client early - all motorway, cruise set at 60mph and Maxidot indicates 46.7 (not 100% accurate I know but not far off) If I ever have to get to a client and it involves a longish drive I tend to leave at "silly o'clock" as I hate sitting in traffic. I live in the north west and often have to travel south of Birmingham and object to paying £5 for the toll (even if it is on expenses) - so take the normal route if I hit it before 6am. Driving at these times reduces the likelihood of having to stop and you can practice 'hypermiling' which, whilst boring, can improve economy quite a bit. My car has 135K on it and I love it and want to try and keep it going as long as I can because, to be honest, I can't find anything that comes anywhere near for the £. I tend to over maintain my cars and had looked into the rotary fuel pump (VP44) as fitted to the V6 as they are slated for their inherent weaknesses - specifically the failure of the internal electronics and mechanical wear. Sometimes I 'over research' subjects and was reading up on the pump and I stumbled on this post http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic878.html Theory is that the internal electronics fail through overheating as the pump is cooled by the flow of diesel so not running your car low on fuel is advised as it won't have time to cool as it is recirculated if the level is low. On mechanical wear, In summary since the sulphur content in diesel has been lowered over the years there have been problems with mechanical pump failures (sulphur acts as a lubricant) and adding two stroke effectively replaces what has been removed from pump diesel. Choice of two stoke oil is important, if you are adding it you should go for a one that is low smoke / ash and complies with JASO-FC or JASO-FD. I take on board what roto says about EGR and VNT problems but I'm keeping an eye on these areas. I checked the VNT operation on my turbo before I started this 'experiment' (10 tanks now) and the only thing I've noticed is a gradual improvement in performance and economy. As a disclaimer my experience may be different to somebody elses but all I know is its worked for me, if you want to research the subject read the thread above - it's a large one so give yourself some time to read it through and then start Googling the subject if you want more.

I spoke to Ben yesterday as I was in the area on business and was going to pop in and collect my STS if it had arrived. Ben had, yesterday, received a courier tracking number for TNT, from his supplier, and they were on their way to him - he's expecting them today. I think his supplier was clearly overwhelmed with the amount of units it had to supply and that is why things are running behind - remember Ben wouldn't have ordered these units until the GB finished (judging by the posts on here there was a flurry of orders at the end so numbers weren't firmed up until the last day - I guess it was the same on other forums too) and a supplier wouldn't tool up and put resource in place to manufacture until the order was made. Also I think in fairness to Ben he's move premises, had a flood and is trying to run his business day to day as well as chase this group buy. Give him a few more days and I'm sure we'll all be

Removed : oops pressed the wrong button :S

When I use the loud pedal on my V6 it does like a drink, but driving sensibly I get 550 to 650 from a tank and have broken the 700 once though it is difficult driving like this and requires a lot of patience. As a sidish note having done a load of research about the V6 and its VP fuel system I have recently started adding 2 stroke oil (JASO-FC or FD - low smoke) when I fill up (250-300ml) and have noticed a slight increase in mpg (2-3) and better starting

Hopefully I'll be able to tell you what the mapped V6 feels like next week when my Group Buy Shark STS box comes through

Agreed 100%

So did you take the plunge and take a look ?

Just make sure everyhting works i.e all the electrics particularly inside the car (lights). The damage to the CCM through water ingress through the pollen filter housing is well documented on this forum. Drive the car ensure there's nothing untoward (creaks, groans and bangs etc) and that it pulls strong. If auto use the Tiptronic and ensure the changes are smooth. The torque delivery is pretty much linear across the rev range which is not like the punchy 1.9PD. Check its registration date to establish what VED band it will fall in, anything after March '06 (I think) will fall under emissions (expensive) rather than the old PLG scale. I absolutely adore my V6, not the most popular choice amongst us MK1 owners but I can't fault it. Bit thirstier than the 1.9 but I love that V6 note when it gets on song.

The best way to remove it is to remove the wipers and arms then the scuttle panel can be removed from below the windscreen., this gives you the best access to the tray. The scuttle panel may take some persuasion, easiest way is the use a plastic scraper between the screen and the panel and gently prise it from it's clip. The windscreen has a channel fixed to the bottom edge into which the scuttle panel fixes along its length. Be careful so as not to break the panel though the part is shared with the Passat and is only just over £10 for a replacement. Before you do this there should be 2 clips on the bottom of the panel holding it to bracket (one beneath the drivers wiper arm, the other near the centre) Carefully remove the rain channel (look how it's attached the the filter tray) so as not to break the clips, then you'll be able to remove the (3 I think) nuts that hold the housing to the bulkhead. All in just under an hour if you're not sure what you're doing.

I'd try £2200 and work up from there. Remember you are looking at a very 'leggy' car which is liable to need some TLC. Assuming it's a 1.9 TDi PD [130 bhp] Comfort (2002/52) wisebuyers.co.uk allows you to get a free mileage adjusted valuation (unlike Parkers which requires a payment to mileage correct), at 220K it prompts you to email them as the mileage is so high, so put in 200K and you will get Retail: £3,285 Private Good: £2,335 Private Average: £1,725 Private Poor: £1,235 Part Exchange: £1,965 Trade: £1,773 Looking on Autotrader this morning there are cheaper, higher spec (Elegance), lower mileage cars out there. Just shop around. Not sure if you do big mileages, if not the 1.8T's (petrol) seem cheap and they can be remapped from 150 to 200 bhp (check Shark Performance's website). But then that starts a whole different conversation.

I bought mine last year (2005 Elegance V6 TDi 108K - now at 135K, full history etc) for £4200 though I think the trader I bought it off of didn't know what he had. When I 'stumbled' on the Superb last year , and then started looking for one, the prices were quite low but I think they have held or even gone up over the last 12 months as a lot more are coming onto the used market and being identified as bargain motoring. As Phil says check the history and the common problem areas (Phil has highlighted them but also educate yourself on the forum) At that mileage the vendor won't have a queue of buyers, they're asking strong money for the car so drive a hard bargain. Tell them there's liable to be a few big bills coming up (seized pinch bolts, plenum leakage etc) and factor a couple of bills to replace worn items, get it a the right price and you'll have a cheap motor that should last for ages.

I have also considered an aftermarket kit, has anybody managed to source one that fits and mounts into the original holes ?

My DX sat nav (standard fit) always asks for the code if the battery has been disconnected and does not work until the code has been put in, fortunately I have my code so this is no problem

I have the 'normal' old style wipers and used to get a clunk when they swept the screen at the extreme of their travel. I narrowed it down to the wiper hitting the windscreen trim on the drivers A pillar, I realigned the arm, with the base of the screen, by undoing the mounting bolt on the scuttle panel and a moving it. It will probalby take some persuasion as it's on a spline. Once released it may be worth removing it and popping on a bit of copper grease to aid removal at a later date. My wiper blade was not parallel with the base of the screen and I moved it approx 1 spline and now all is quiet. Like Roto says it's frustrating having to do these jobs to rectify design flaws (pollen filter seal, pinch bolt etc) but at least they are so well documented with a bit of research and 'dirty hand' time you can protect yourself once educated.

Hi, I normally lurk on the Superb I forum but have a problem with a friends 170 bhp TDI (it's a Touran by the way but suspect hardware is similar to Octavia, Golf etc), specifically it is throwing error codes (scanned with VAG-COM) which indicate the Exhaust DPF Pressure Sensor is duff. 001139 - Exhaust Pressure Sensor 1 (G450): Signal too High 001137 - Exhaust Pressure Sensor 1 (G450): Implausible Signal I've run manual regen, cleared codes and the car is still displaying the DPF and exhaust (engine block) warning lights. I'm going to change the offending item but am looking for help on locating it, is there anybody out there who can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance

You need to enable it using VAG-COM

There's no cheap place to find the sensors I'm afraid, they do pop up occasionally on eBay but the last few I watched fetched close to retail so it may be worth trying to blag a discount at the dealer. They are unique to the Superb and not found on another car in the VAG range so don't bother looking at Passats and A6s. The Superb shares the same part # in all sensors (some cars have inner and outers) Good news is that you don't need to remove the bumper to get at the sensors, you can get your hand up behind the bumper skin and release them from their carriers. Give them a squirt of WD40 (or similar) and fiddle around at the clips, in the carrier, that hold the sensor (top and bottom) and it will wiggle free. The offside middle requires one screw removing from underneath the bumper skin so yo ucan get your hand in. Take your time with the first one to get the technique and you'll have them out in no time.