muckipup

I did the same. The only downside was that they were the darker gunmetal colour described above whereas the originals matched the alloys.

I heard that the throttle body can be reset for those of us without VAG-COM by switching on the ignition (without turning over engine) and leaving for about 20 mins. I guess VAG-COM could show if a reset occurred so can anyone with VAG-COM confirm?

Ditto that!

I can also vouch for Monks in Chandlers Ford - pricing seemed very fair and reasonable to me. As I work in Basingstoke, I will also give SJB a try next time as I've heard good things too

Just helped me - I was planning to pop out to Halfords today to get this. Have just returned from Homebase across the road from Halfords with 2 of these. I saw that 0W30 was also reduced to the same price.

Bought my car there in March. Nice sales guy, not too pushy. All in all I was very pleased with the experience and deal. I will probably go there for services, etc. as the dealer in Fareham seems to get more 'iffy' feedback despite being closer.

This any help? http://briskoda.net/technical-guides/reprogram-key-remote-free/77233/

Another trawl through the forums showed that the newer OEM pump is about £250. With the cost of the Autotech or KMD internals being about £200 ish (may be more with postage as I can't see who sells in the UK) and the hassle/risk of fitting, it makes the horrible cost of an APR pump a bit less frightening. Think I'll follow Mater's advice and start saving! However JKM's price is nearer £717 for APR pump + £57 if you want it fitted: http://www.jkm.org.uk/performance/tfsipumps.htm

Can I ask how much it cost for a newer OEM pump? I have a 57 plate VRS but was suffering from fuel cut and noticed that the registration doc for the car had a manufacturing year of 2006 so guess the current pump is an old one.

I have to agree with Mater and Makefish having recently done this myself. No way is a simple remap going to give anywhere near 256 bhp. I still think you can go in for a remap wise to this but knowing that even something approaching an extra 30 bhp is still a very notable performance improvement and probably the best 'bang for the buck' improvement. Additionally, it is the most non-invasive in that it doesn't mean ripping enging covers off or bolting anything on which will affect warranty for sure. Definately worth it! On the subject, there are a couple of things that I would like to see which may be on the forum but I have missed them... The first one is comparable rolling road stats for different simple/1st stage remaps i.e. from different remap companies. I don't doubt that some of the more popular remapping companies may offer something more but I haven't seen any real evidence that a £500 remap is better than say the £275 remap that VRS Stu mentions when it is also a custom rather than a generic 'one size fits all' map (and if there is, is it worth the extra £225?) The second, still on the 'bang for buck' theme is a comparison of the cost of different mods vs. bhp so that a £ per bhp can be calculated e.g.1: a £275 remap gives, say 30 bhp increase meaning £9.17 per bhp e.g. 2 a £320 EVOMS gives say 7 bhp increase meaning £45.71 per bhp or a £3000 new big turbo gives 30 bhp on a remapped car meaning £100 per bhp I am not wanting to be contentious here, just genuinely interested.

The brake pads?

I have just noticed this old thread after about a month of driving my VRS following a remap done by Edge Motorsports near Portsmouth using a Pendle remap. I am delighted with the results! If there is a 'my remap is better than your remap' thing then I don't have a problem with that but I doubt that there would be much in it given the increased performance that I am experiencing. The mapping data went up to Martin and was adjusted there and then before coming back to Ken at Edge in a short space of time i.e. online connection between them; this wouldn't be the case with a 'one size fits all mapping'. They were open about not doing "remaps that are going to kill your car" and it was this honesty along with the honesty with their pricing that I went for. Had a good laugh with Ken while it was all going on too - top bloke and trustworthy! The only issue that I have had seems to have been a minor loss of performance recently which coincided with refuelling with what I think was duff fuel and has since gone away i.e no issues with remap. In short, I can recommend Edge and Pendle.

Thanks Makefish I considered this possibility and certainly haven't ruled it out. However, I am not seeing the big drop in boost that a DV failure would suggest. If anytrhing, the symptoms are more like the Positive Crankcase Ventilation failure described in the link you gave (but without oil on the filler cap). I also considered the MAF sensor. I guess it could be a bunch of things. I just wanted to rule out the dodgy petrol idea since it coincided (sort of) with the issue. I guess the easiest thing there is run the tank low and fill up at Tesco again!

A cotton, lint-free microfibre cloth for me too. I found Autoglym's own stockingette Perfect Polishing cloths to be horrible - took the polish/wax off but spread fluff fibres everywhere.

Hi, I have a moderately remapped Octy II TFSi VRS which seems to have dropped in power and MPG - nothing drastic, but notable. I have also had one or two 'clackety' starts when starting the engine from both cold and warm. The only thing that I can think of that would correlate with when this started was filling up with BP Ultimate 97 RON fuel before the weekend. Previously I used 99 RON from Tescos. I know that a remapped engine should use premium unleaded but I would have thought that BP Ultimate would cover this and would be surprised if there was not good control of quality in the UK. I was therefore wondering if anyone else with a remapped TFSi had experienced problems with this or a dodgy batch of premuim unleaded in general and did it cause similar symtoms?

I appreciate that this is an old post but I stumbled across it when searching for a solution to the same problem. I had already wrapped some black electrical tape around the pegs on the parcel shelf that clip in and also tightened the aluminium track on the shelf into which the pegs slide - no joy. I also removed the stack of CD cases stored in the boot compartment above my CD changer . I am going to investigate some other ideas that I have stumbled across in my search namely the rear n/s seatbelt anchoring point and possible rubber feet where the parcel shelf sits on the plastic.