dohertyjj

Problem sorted it turned out to be the Temperature sensor. After replacing the relay it made no difference so I returned it and tried the Temperature sensor (even though I replaced this less than 6 months ago) turned out it was leaking water into the connections Hey presto problem sorted started this morning at -2deg first turn

Thanks will take a look and see if thats my problem I didn't expect anything to be simple on a VW designed car I do believe vw engineers are hobbits and think that those coming after them can get into places that a mouse wouldn't even try

Good point rotodiesel Its hard to beat the old methods

Thanks rotodiesel is the double relay in the block under the dash or is it in the box under the carpet also can you recommend a good code reader as at 221000 miles I think its time I invested

Having a problem with cold start wiht my 1.9 awx engine superb in morning Thought it might be heater plugs as there is 221000 miles on car so checked these indeed three were gone so I replaced the set. Didn't make any difference so I checked the power on switch on no power, so next is the relay and fuses I know they are located behind the fuse box but can anyone tell me which relay controls the glow plugs and also where is it located. Also is there anything else that could be causing the plugs not to come on

as far as I know when you have the aircon set to auto this fan will run full time if you put the switch to econ the fan should switch off.

It is confusing and it took several tyres for me to admit that it is important. (in the fabi box with their track rod ends they actually give a diaghram of the adjustment) My laymans understanding of the raised toe is to keep the wheels dead straight on the camber during a full lock.if the track rod end is not sitting at the right angle the bottom of the wheel will either push out or in causing wear. The track rod end can be adjusted up and down on the ball end (if you look at a track rod end on a passat or superb there is a bolt which goes through the ball side of the track rod end this has a 15mm slot to allow movement up and down) and to adjust there is a bolt which screws down into the ball pin from the top. if this is not correctly set it will cause the wheel to go out of camber when turning and it will also leave the car more boaty than normal. Believe it or not the theory in all the crazy arms fitted on the superb is to give perfect turning the problem is the system cant take the abuse it gets from the roads. I do know from experience that not a lot of garages either know about this or have the equipment to set it, but if the tyre is wearing to the inside it needs to be adjusted up by loosning the side bolt and tightning down the top bolt then retightning the side bolt

with so much cosmetic surgery done it could be anything that's one where you are going to have to some investigation, could be anything from a duff bearing to somthing as simple as a piece of plastic rubbing

Sounds like your S curve (or Raised toe) setting is out this is done by moving the track rod end up or down (if you look you will see that there is a bolt going down through the track end), bad news is it takes specialised equipment to set and only a handful of dealers have it so you will have to check around

Remember on the superb not only do you have normal tracking but you also have raised toe or S curve this may also be the cause of your tyre wear

this is a fault with both the superb and the passat the servo pipe as it enters the vacuum pump works itself loose and causes some hairy breaking experiences when driving at low revs. To repair get a flat bar and tap around the flange on the pump to re tighten it then apply either JD weld or apoxy glue as a safeguard

had that problem myself for a few months so with the NCT looming thought its time to sort. I put it down to the front brake pads as they were spurious and had to have a little shave to fit. My knock was more prominent when going slow on a concrete surface and if you just lightly touched the brake it disappeared, but a while back when changing the front struts I noticed the front top suspension arm was jumpy when the ball was moved from side to side but when in place it seemed fine so to be on the safe side I decided to replace it at this stage it had got bad enough to know it was kaput, and at the same time I replaced the pads hey presto knock gone. Now its pi***** me off cause im not sure which was the guilty party so much so I would nearly put the old pads back in just to see. but in the back of my head I reckon it was the top arm cause with pressure on the brake this would pull the wheel back and stop the knock as well. Still failed the NCT they reckon cracks in a front brake pipe had a look at it their heads is up their ***

No some AWX engines on variable and the system above works for both its only the later models that need to be reset by computor which leads me to my questin does anyone know is there a vag fault reader available that willl do this on all skoda/vw models

Try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes this might reset the system

Afraid you do have to pull out the front its not as bad as it looks 5 screws on each side of the wheel arch a few under the bumper (depending how many havn't shook out) then 3 across the top of the bumper remove bumper. next remove headlights, then front panel slide it forward just enough to get access to the fan I never bother with the pins for this job just support the front panel when you get enough room Off and back on should not take longer than an hour P.S its also a good time to replace indicator bulbs or any other bulbs that may be in for a while

VW passats and Skoda superbs have a thing called S Curve alignment or raised toe and this need special equipment to set. If a track rod end has been replaced then this needs to be reset it involves moving the end of the track rod up or down (see topic on this forum) Skoda are not big into carrying the equipment to do this job so you may have to check with your local VW dealer

If the car is down on power it could be an intercooler pipe most probably the one from under the radiator up to the turbo, next thing to check is the pulley on the altenator this can rattle and drone on trottle lift off, next check the radiator fan pulley again the bearing in the engine bracket can fail and it sounds like an earoplane to check this --- with the car idling using a cloth stop the fan if the engine noise changes remove the belt and check the retaining bearing ( this is the baby that caused me the problem for a long time)

did you check the clutch assembly could have been as simple as a warped pressure plate

<p>Before you go spending money on the altenator pully check the free running cooling fan I like you had a growl in that area it appeared a few weeks ago but for a long time I had a whirring noise everyone knew it was my car coming sounded like a jet landing very softly changed the altenator pulley then the tensioner (good job I was able to return these bits) they made no difference. Then a few weeks ago it turned into a growl so by holding the cooling fan stationary with the car idling the noise stopped it turned out to be the bearings on the bracket that the bolt holding on the pulley goes through so check this out</p> <p>P.S don't know if these bearings can be replaced I just replaced the bracket with one from a vw passat</p>

Just remember lads if you are changing the track rod ends as supplied in the kit above you must reset the raised toe anong with the regular toe on the Superb so check that you can get somone with the equipment to do this if you dont reset the raised toe you will end up with the car feeling very boaty and wearing tyres uneavenly

Unfortunatly **** happens any engine can give up the ghost Lately I have seen a PD engine destroy the cam shaft and followers sounded like a bag of bolts it had the correct oil and was never abused. I would suggest that because in general the awx engine is bullet proof and is used in lots of the VW range of cars that rather than reconditioning the engine you check with the breakers there are loads of good quality engines out there at good money with low milage

Anyone out there have any suggestions as to the best vag reader for both fault finding on the superb 2004 and also for doing diagnosis on the 2008 fabia (resetting service light and other fault codes etc)

Its possible you have a broken spring or the bearing on the top of the strut assembly may have collapsed, jack the car up on one side at a time and check the spring and if necessary get someone to turn the steering from side to side and listen for creaking if the spring is not broken but the unit is creaking then its the top unit and it can be got from any motor factors at around £30 (please put an axle stand under the car for safety) also check the rubber boot on the CV joints if they are busted then the CV may be doing the groning

could be your air mass meter

Doubt you have a major problem there did they skim the head when replacing the gasket if not this could be the problem. Failing this it sounds like a crack in the head or in the water jacket in the block either way it might be cheaper to cut your losses and just replace the engine Another thaught there is some additives that can be put into the water that might repair the crack but I suspect they might be short term fixes