phoneman(ret)

Hi, Sorry for the delay in replying and thanks Nigel for the information. Looks as if access to the DRL bulbs is via a cover in the front of the wheel arch (thought only Vauhall Astras were that odd). May have a look at removing the headlight unit complete (on the Scout, unscrew one plastic nut, pull a release lever and out it came) much easier than grovelling about under the wheel arch ! I want to change the main/dip bulbs as well (H4) for something a bit brighter - first time I drove in the dark, only just realised headlights were on, 14 years of HID lights ! - so if it will come off easily, I will give it a try. Will swap one DRL for LED and see if the bulb monitoring complains, if OK, will then swap the other. Will post the results of my attempts (if successful !) so anyone else could have a go. Next job is the missing ? cruise control. Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, I have posted a few topics on the Octavia 2 forum in the last 14 years and have received much useful advice - but this is my last post ! My 2008 Octavia Scout has gone ahead of needing mega money to fix all that was going wrong - new clutch, DMF, pads & discs all round, all CV joint boots and thats just the start, still had propshaft drone around 2k rpm in 6th and waiting for front suspension to give way. Having said all that, it has been my best tow-car ever (two 2.0l Cavaliers, Subaru Forester) and has only let me down once when battery (original) failed after six years. On a run easily got 40-45 MPG with a best recorded (at 70) of 57 MPG. Never failed to pull caravan off any surface, mud, snow etc and was a pleasure to drive - the 8V BMM engine, I think, the best of the 2.0TDI - emissions constantly almost zero and NEVER a problem with DPF. Hope you are sat down reading this as its replacement is a 17 plate Fabia 1.2SE TSI and if you can get a greater contrast, please let me know ! Was quite surprised by the 1.2 engine which has almost a diesel quality torque wise, £20 tax instead of around £280 and good fuel consumption fits the bill now as we no longer tow or need to move wardrobes, ladders (and believe it or not a full size bath IN the car) about. So farewell to the Octavia 2 forum, thanks for all the help and advice and good luck to you all. Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, I have a 17 plate Fabia 1.2SE TSI. Has anyone fitted CanBus compatible LED bulbs to DRLs and if so which ones (some are more compatible than others). There seem to be quite a few to choose from - fitting LEDs to DRLs will NOT fail an MOT, unlike headlights. Want to fit LED bulbs as I have seen a lot of VAG group cars that use P21W bulbs for DRL with one or even both lights out. Bulbs on all the time don't seem to last long. I have been building towing electrics test equipment (for DIY and trade) for 20 years - before CanBus my towing socket testers just used LEDs for monitoring circuits. When CanBus turned up, these suddenly didn't work - found out after a bit of "digging" that adding a 100 ohm resistor across the LED "fooled" CanBus into thinking a bulb was present and it would output 12V. But the downside was (not important for just testing) that you got a bulb failure warning - not enough current being pulled. Owners of newer caravans with LED lights even have had to add an additional unit (Sargent). Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, Thanks for your replies, should have known about the turbo !! Found the (rather dim) dipped beam light - why not with high beam warning in cluster ? there are so many warning lights in there, maybe not room for another. Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, New to Fabia Mk 3 forum as I have just bought a 1.2SE (March 17 plate), Last car was a 2008 Scout !! which I had for 14 years, some would say quite a change !! New car low insurance and £20 tax for year, instead of over £23 per month. Just a few questions please, answers much appreciated. Does the 1.2 (66kW) engine have a turbo ? Quite surprised by the performance and torque from such a small engine. It has what I thought was cruise control which I wanted (same "stalk" as on Scout) but it seems only to be a speed limiter, which I don't need. A button underneath the "stalk" is missing - which I presume switches from one to the other (finding drivers handbook vague). Any chance of getting cruise control, switching it on permanently ? Sorry if this has been covered many times already. Also seem to be missing a headlights on indicator (dipped beam) though have a main beam indicator. That's all for now, sure to find other things to ask about, used the Octavia Mk2 forum for many years getting and on occasions giving advice. Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, Thanks for your thoughts and advice. Car just passed its 11th ? MOT, state of brakes mentioned but nothing else. Will try and have a drive in a 1.6TDI, (16 to early 17 plate) but am prepared to be a bit disapointed. May have a look at other makes or another 2.0lTDI but without four wheel drive. Don't do many miles now so fuel consumption doesn't come into the equation. After over 13 years driving a diesel, don't know if I want to go back to petrol (last car was a Subaru Forester, excellenr 4x4 with low ratio box but very underpowered - non turbo 2.0l) are petrol engines these days producing too much power for their own good ? Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, A few years ago I had trouble with front o/s light, but this time it was an indicator bulb showing failed on CanBus (with warning light). It corrected itself after a short time and was OK for the rest of the journey. After it had done this a few times, I changed the bulb but with same fault. I then pulled out the headlight cluster plug and plugged it back in a couple of times - no more trouble since. Same fault ?? My cars HID lights are now over 14 years old and have started to show a yellow "tint" at the top of the beam when shining on a white garage door - may be ready for some new ones. Cheers, Lloyd

Hi Jan, My car does the same ! mainly in 5th or 6th gear at around 2200 RPM. It has gradually got worse over a number of years - useful for keeping to 70 MPH limit on motorways though as it occurs at around 75 MPH in 6th gear ! Have been told that the fault is the couplings on the prop-shaft ( 4 wheel drive Scout) but it would cost a LOT of money to fix. If your car is not a 4x4, sorry I haven't been much help. Cheers, Lloyd

HI, I have a 14 year old Scout with the 2.0l, 8V PD engine. Only done 93k miles, uses no oil between services and at its last MOT its emissions were almost non-existant. Around town, 40 mpg is the norm, on a steady run at 70, 50mpg is normal, best ever (recently) was 57 mpg - not bad for an old 2.0l engine. Has very good cruise control & rear parking sensors, HID headlights still good and everything "above ground" is fine. The problems start underneath !! Just had its latest, interim, service and a whole can of worms was found. Needs - new front and rear discs and pads & new CV boots all round. Now thats the cheap ? bit ! cluch is almost finished and there is a small rattle from the DMF ,mind you it has been like that for a number of years. Exhaust still OK & front suspension & Haldex but for how long ? Don't want to start throwing money at what may be a lost cause. Bought the car for towing (1200kg caravan + extras) which it was excellent at doing, but now no longer tow so don't need 2.0l power - though I shall miss the easy way it gets down the road. After all that ramble, I will get to the point. I NEED A NEW(ER) CAR !!! Would like to stay with diesel, but downsize to say 1.6 BUT are they any good ??? The 2.0l PD engine is very good and I will miss all that torque, but have been looking at the 1.6l TDI 115PS but hearing expensive problems with EGR etc. Any advice on cars & engines (even petrol ones) would be much appreciated - will stay with the Octavia model, if I can, though may have to downsize to a Fabia. Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, Had hot starting problems for a few years and finally got round to doing something about it. Car would start first time in the coldest weather (inspite of having four open circuit glow-plugs) but once it had warmed up it took a few turns before it would fire. It was not battery related - same with brand new and older batteries. Had the cam position sensor changed - not cheap but a DIY job if you are able - and from then on it started first time hot or cold. Changed a crank position sensor on my daughers car (1.4 Kia Rio) because cold starting, OK but after it had warmed up engine just cut oiut without warning - changed sensor (easy job that one) and no problems afterwards. Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, My 2008 Scout has Proteus alloys and afer a few years they were getting tatty. Problem apears to be the laquer doesn't stick well to the diamond cut spoke surface. I think they are the best looking alloy wheel (easy to clean) and nice chunky spokes. Got them grit blasted and powder coated, think it cost around £60 per wheel, and now they are a uniform silver grey finish, nice and understated, Goes well with the dark blue paint. Never had any leaking problems - was fitted from factory with Dunlop SP 1 tyres, but for the last few years has been running on Avon ZV 7, which seem to be better than the Dunlops. Steel wheels and winter tyres go on in November - helps protect alloys from salt and hidden potholes ! Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, Cam position sensor has been showing a fail code for a few years. Doesn't affect cold starting but hot starting takes a few rotations before engine fires. I believe the sensor is hidden behind the timing belt, can be got at but difficult. Is it an easy job to replace when having timing belt (and water pump) replaced ? I replaced a crank position sensor on my daughters car last year (1.4 Kia Rio) and I assume the cam sensor works in the same way, magnetic reluctance producing a series of pulses ? The crank sensor was only £23, wonder if the cam sensor is available as an aftermarket part ? Won't be doing job myself, replace sensor no problem - timing belt & water-pump NO WAY ! Cheers, Lloyd

HI, Had exactly the same problem which lasted over a couple of years. Got bulb fail info, bulb not working. Left the flasher operating, bulb started working. Decided it wasn't a bulb problem (changed it anyway) but the plug that connects to the headlight housing. Removed housing, one nylon screw to remove then pull a slide to release the housing. Remove plug, change bulb, re-fit plug and housing. This was done six moths ago and no further problems. Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, Thanks for the reply - the light is still white/blue, possibly not quite as bright but that may be my eyesight ! Nice to know that that the (High Intensity Discharge, the 35W high voltage lamps, or xenon) bulbs last so long. Yes, I don't do much night driving now, my night vision is nowhere as good as it was. I can now consider how long the OEM exhaust will last - I believe a replacement is (again) silly money, but will go stainless when it fails. There is at least one local firm which "makes to measure". Have also some noises, which maybe the DMF on its way out (only 85k miles). I am well old enough to remember when cars were much simpler and I could fix most problems (except gear boxes !) myself. Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, My Scouts HIDs are now getting on for 12 years old (factory fitted) and I was thinking they cannot last much longer, though now I don't do much night driving. Without paying silly money, which are the best value/effective HIDs available ? When one fails, I will replace both, easy to get headlight units out and swap over. Would the projector lenses need a clean ? Advice would be appreciated. Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, For the last five years I have swapped 17" alloy rims (with Avon ZV7 tyres) for 16" steel rims with budget winter tyres (budget, so if they get "chewed up" in winter no great loss). This protects the alloys (already refurbished Proteus) from nasty salt corrosion etc. Steel rims were £120 for four (My Tyres check offset ! Scout was 50)) and the budget tyres about half the price of the Avons. I have an electric car-jack which makes changing the wheels much easier. The Avons last longer and the Scout is much better on the winter tyres - most amusing going easily up hills passing floundering expensive 4x4s with wide summer tyres ! Best Wishes for Christmas & the New Year, Lloyd

Hi, Strictly, this is nothing to do with a Skoda but may help someone with this problem. Daughters car - 2009 Kia Rio 1.4 petrol with almost 110k miles on the clock. A month ago cut out when coming home from work, called out Green Flag, after about half an hour started OK and got home. Next day same thing happened, then missed a day and happened again. Car would suddenly die on you, no warnings, just stop (luckily didn't happen on motorway !). After a bit of reading posts on other sites, narrowed it down to EGR valve - would have caused rough running. Overheating fuel pump - would have caused fuel starvation effects. Crank Position Sensor - if the ECU cannot see crank turning it will shut down engine - most probable ! Found offending device (low down on crankcase - it would have to be - at front of engine). Removed it (bit of a pig) got part for £21 and replaced (more of a pig). Now two weeks on and (I shouldn't say this) but all OK. Hope this may be of use in similar circumstances. Own car has fault code for cam position sensor open circuit - not even going to try to get at that one, will have it done when timing belt renewed. Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, I have had this fault for a while (same engine, I think). When engine is cold, starts first time even in winter (with no functioning glow plugs) but when it is hot, it takes a few turns to start. Doesn't seem to have got any worse (probably a couple of years now) but I am sure it needs doing ! I have heard that it is behind the timing belt and although it can be "got at" with the belt in place, its much easier if it isn't. Engine coming up for a timing belt change, so I am hoping that it won't cost a lot extra to change sensor at the same time. Don't fancy doing the job myself ! Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, Firstly, many thanks to all who replied to this post, its great to have so much help & advice. I have stuck the cover back on the n/s washer - since it was off it was easy to grab the washer arm and pull it out, I then dropped a piece of plastic (with a slot cut out) over the arm to keep it from retracting. Much supaglue applied to the three mounting pegs, let it go off and then removed plastic. Tried washers, perfect ! Then decided to glue the other cover, since one fell off how long before the other one ! As the cover was in place, got wife to operate screen washers (with headlights on) and before the arm retracted, popped the piece of plastic over the arm, rest as before. The washers have two jets per side, neither needed any adjustment. If they ever did or got blocked will use second method to hold arm out while adjusting. Cheers,. Lloyd

Hi, Thanks for all your help and advice, these forums really work ! On close inspection, a tiny bit of plastic at the top of two of the "pegs" has broken off - due to old age or the washer arm retracting a bit too far ? Will try either a "dab" of superglue or perhaps a tiny cable tie to fix the cover back on. When it is retracted the cover is a good fit against the bumper, never moved when washing the car, so it is held with a reasonable amount of tension. It seems to be designed to be pulled off to get at the washer jets ? Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, Thanks for the two answers, long nose pliers I have so I will try to extend the washer arm and see why the cover has come off. Failing that, I will try the "grab it" method ! If they are operated by water pressure there will be some resistance with the seals etc. Car has just passed its MOT (washers part of MOT for HID headlights) and the washers work perfectly, just the cover fell off ! so if I break anything, I have a year to get it mended ! Do the headlight washers use a separate pump, or share the screen wash pump ? My previous car (Subaru Forester) had washers and wipers - don't seem to see wipers these days. Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, Something a bit different. My Scout has HID headlights (factory fitted) and so has headlight washers. These operate, every so many screen washes. They pop out of the front bumper, spray, then pop back in. Problem is the outer plastic cover has come off one (maybe it retracted a bit too far) luckily on the drive ! How can you get the washers operating arm to come out and stay out while I find if I need a new cover, or if it is fixable ? I have tried starting the washers, then turning off the ingnition, no go. I would have thought there must be a way of keeping them out, for maintenance reasons if no other. Cheers, LLoyd

Hi, Don't know if this will help. A couple of years ago, the front straight pipe (from the DPF back) fell off due to one end being corroded. Although I didn't ask, I understood that a complete Skoda system was silly money ! I asked around (Sheffield area) for a complete stainless system from the DPF back (they are tailor made to fit the car, having one on my previous car - Subaru Forester) and was quoted £450. Car is coming up to eleven years old and opinion is that the exhausts last a very long time (you must have been unlucky). Cheers, Lloyd

Hi, My Scout is coming up to eleven yrs old. Two years ago the straight pipe connecting the DPF to the rest of the system fell off ! while we were moving at about 50 mph ! Didn't cause any damage and managed to get it replaced for £50. I have been told by a number of people that the exhaust systems are long lasting, but it must be getting near replacement ? A factory system, I believe, is silly money ! But I have been quoted £450 for a stainless system from DPF back. Anyone had any experience of stainless systems ? Last car was a Subaru Forester which needed a new exhaust system after about six years, again factory system was even sillier money, so that got stainless with no problems. Cheers, Lloyd

Hi Seem to have my crank & cam mixed up ! It was the cam sensor mentioned by garage. Why would it only cause a problem when hot ? Is there something in the sensor which is reacting to heat ? Any ideas of replacement cost ? Also, I would have thought that if the starter motor is on its way out, cold starting (more load) would be worse that hot starting ? Cheers, Lloyd