mannyo

What about Autoglym Supaguard on the interior, that is supposed to help repel dirt and other debris. I like bright interiors, just a pain to keep clean.

The solar charger only needs to supply more power than is currently being consumed to keep a battery topped up, I've used one with great success in the past. If the battery is good and reasonably charged, then they are perfectly good for maintaining a charge. I would not use one to charge a battery though, just to keep it maintained.

Currently it is not possible to buy previously issued plates, even cherished ones. Once they leave the pot and are assigned then they cannot be purchased again. At the time it was stated it is to stop the risk of ringing where you could buy a plate previously issued to a scrapped car and put it on a stolen car of the same make/model and it would appear legit.

The little covers are located to the left and right of the unit at the top, inline with the CD slot and controls, and at the bottom to the left and right of the control buttons. If you remove the front facia surrounding the radio and heating/AC controls then you'll see little holes in the side edge where you can prise the covers off.

its screws, the only way they are held in. Remove the 4 covers from the front of the stream and screws are behind these covers.

The Superb2 cruise control is very basic and you set the target speed once you are driving at that speed. Once set you can vary it small increments using the rocker on the end of the stalk, and that's all the control you have. If the car is an earlyish one it cannot display the set speed, so if you are unsure of that speed then just set a new one when you get to the required speed.

it should go through the motions of making a call, but not actually make one. The code is intercepted by the fiscon unit so the call is never actually made.

Page 6 of the user guide here. http://www.oemretrofits.co.uk/manuals/fiscon_vw_en.pdf The language settings are completely independent of the cars language. I think you need to key *582#3002 on the phone keypad after pairing your phone

I was talking with a work colleague the other day, turns out he is a real HIFI buff. He showed me a picture of his setup, it consists of true high end gear including a wonderful turnable that cost him more than a car, and then the pre-amp and amplifiers on top. Must be £20K or more, the turntable cost him £17K alone. Turntable http://www.stoneaudio.co.uk/?product=linn+klimax+lp12 He has estimated that it costs around £2 for each LP he plays in wear and tear due to the cost of the cartridge and Stylus.

You'll need to keep the original steering wheel and refit for the MOT, since any airbags fitted as standard must be present to pass a MOT test, missing airbags are a failure since last year.

A lot of people mistake the flashing light in the drivers door for an alarm, its not and is just an indication that the deadlocks are engaged. Sigma also had an alarm which could be operated using the factory remote, so if it really has an alarm it could be that. My old MK1 Octy vRS was one of the first in the country and on the roads in the UK, it was a July 2001 registered Y reg, purchased brand new by me at the time. The one I had fitted was a Sigma M30, this had just a single button remote. The one that worked with the factory key was either the M10 or M20 (cant remember, we are talking 14 years ago). A two button remote sounds like it could be a Toad alarm, again common at the time. Usually if you lock the car with the key remote instead of the alarm remote, the alarm remains disabled.

Karcher also have a specific under body wash system. http://www.karcher.co.uk/uk/Products/Home__Garden/chassis_cleaner.htm

No, this should be really easy to get working assuming the second router is a virgin one as well. The text below assumes the second router is the one in the shed. 1) Reset second router back to default settings. 2) Plug the LAN cable from the original router into the WAN port on the second router. 3) Turn it all on 4) connect laptop top SSID of router in shed 5) Job done. If you are using an old ADSL router, its a whole lot more complicated 1) Reset second router to factory default 2) Power up router, connect to SSID using laptop 3) Configure router with an IP address compatible with your own LAN (192.168.0.x), disable router DHCP. 4) Plug LAN cable from first router into spare ethernet port on second router. 5) Turn second router off/on again. 6) connect laptop to second router SSID 7) jobs done, should all work. Because you are bypassing the router and just using it as an access point and not a router the IP address needs to be in the same range. Using an old cable router is so much easier, because it assumes the connection to the main virgin router is actually a virgin media outside connection. Essentially the second cable router will DHCP from the first and route across the WAN port all traffic as if it were really the internet. Its complicated to explain but it will work. You could set them all with the same SSID and wireless key as long as you configure them on different channels.

The generic code readers tend to only give half a story rather than the full picture, it could even be misreporting codes. P0196 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Range/Performance. P0441 http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16825/P0441/001089 Nothing to do with sunroof motors, or tensioning strut stowed (have no clue what that even means.

The MK1 vRS never had a factory fitted alarm as standard fit or option, if it has an alarm its aftermarket. Common aftermarket alarms of the time were made by Sigma and Toad, I had a Sigma one fitted to my old MK1 vRS which had a separate fob.

mmm nuggets, I'll be there as usual of course. I was in there last weekend as well, with family this time.

There are newer maps, 7918 is V9 which is actually very old. The latest is V12 I believe, but its a chargeable upgrade since the maps are licensed software. Part number I believe is 1T0 051 859 AH

The button is not standard, without tracing the wiring there is no way to know what it controls.

BMP is the 8V 2.0PD TDi engine, a CR engine has a 4 character ID.

My old MK2 Octavia was sold at 99K miles and was still on the original disks and pads, still had life in them as well. I bought the car at just a few months old, so knew its full history.

The PD diesel of the vRS does not have the oil pump drive problem, it was the Superb MK1 variant of the 2.0PD engine that had that and no other Skoda models.

That could I guess be welded and used as a spare, but I would not run it as a main wheel. The amount of balance weights needed to offset the weld could be considerable and it already has quiet a few more than I would expect for a previously undamaged wheel. The damage looks more like you run over an object rather than a hole, otherwise the other wheel on the same side should have similar damage. Usually pot holes cause damage to the outer or inner rim rather than puncture a hole through the wheel.

it is indeed, just the same as the Octavia MK2 (and Later Mk1's) and all versions of the Fabia.

in the case of the BMW, yes I agree and the auto box itself does not usually allow the engine to operate outside normal parameters. In theory you should be able to drive at maximum RPM without incident, but obviously something went wrong here.