vRS G60

My grommet was split, £1.62 for a new one.

It also limits it to 6 gears not 7. I use it if I'm on narrow lanes with up & downhills. It keeps the engine on the boil better.

Yes me too. I think it's down to the 7 gears, always changing up or down. I sometimes whack it into manual and select 2nd, or 3rd depending on speed, so I can be sure I pull away cleanly if I need to.

My Yeti has a Columbus unit. Whenever I get in the car and try to listen to 5Live on 909 there's a hellish squealing interference. If I try again after about 15 minutes the noise has almost gone but 5Live is never a good signal. If I try TalkSport for instance the reception is OK. Also my SatNav map takes ages an age to acquire a true position, up to 30 minutes. The aerial connection seems OK but the cable length really is far too short. It's difficult to get to the connection when I've taken the unit out. Any ideas?

It looks like it's this grommet. Item 24 part number 03F 103 638, although as I say part 21 doesn't look like mine. I have an extra connection.

Anyway, back to post #1 I shop in Lidl every week & I can't remember the last time I saw their screenwash on sale. It does look like they've stopped selling it,

Just to wrap this up. I used a Sealey pressure bleeder on Friday to bleed the system. NSR first then ORS then NSF and then OSF. Brakes back to normal now.

Engine running or off when pressure bleeding brakes? Skoda Yeti

Following on from by rear brakes binding I changed the calipers. Yes I clamped the hose, but the brakes are still spongy despite bleeding all 4 calipers. I'm going to try one of the Sealey pressure bleeders to see if this will bleed them. There's air in the system because if you pump the pedal a couple of times it's firm.

Just looking on Euro Car Parts & there are 2 differing pads listed. How to know which is which? My calipers are the ones with the ridges on the back. I think they are 1KD Lucas/TRW

Reconditioned calipers £70 for a pair. Might just bite the bullet and get these.

Did the pad slides, forgot the pins! Moved freely though. I have tool for pushing the pistons back in that pushes and screws at the same time.

Well I took a look at this on Friday and thought I'd fixed it. The pads were seized in the caliper and wouldn't move. I managed to get them out filed them slightly so they moved freely. And added copper slip grease, The pistons weren't seized but were difficult to push back into the caliper, and the handbrake mechanism appeared to return to the stop. Wheel moved freely when I put it back together. This morning, got to work. One rear disc warm (too warm) the other very hot!!!!! With the dark nights It's only Friday afternoon or weekend I can look at it. Might be time for new calipers.

This I know but it does give me some leeway with the mechanism at the caliper end. A bit of slack cable makes it easier to disconnect.

For reference, You can just get to the adjusting nut for the handbrake cables by removing the rear ashtray as mentioned above.

Hardly any, 3 or 4 at most. There is no slack in the cable at all. It engages the handbrake the instant you pull the lever.

Thanks, yes the binding is either a sticking caliper on it's slider, sticking piston, or sticking handbrake mechanism on the caliper.

Ah you mean the tray for the rear seat occupants (Item 8 in the diagram above). I haven't had time to take a look at this but the discs were very hot to the touch by the time I'd travled the 8 miles to work this morning.

The rear discs are getting hot, it seems the handbrake is not disengaging fully. The cable has no slack at all, even the slightest pull brings on the handbrake. I want to check the adjuster under the centre console. How do I get the console off please? I've found this diagram but not in the way of what screws to undo & where they are.

There should be a sensitivity slider on the top of the wiper arm. The wiper needs to be in position "1" (position "0" being off.) for it to work. Then sensitivity can then be adjusted using the slider.

Yes true BUT - you can't set off in any gear other than 1st and that doesn't help with traction. In a manual car you can put it into 3rd to set off and it helps prevent too much wheel spin. I have a 1.2 TSI DSG Yeti and it's crap in snow. I use snow socks and these do work remarkably well. I'm thinking of investing in winter tyres though.

My 2010 1.2 TSI DSG has developed a slight judder under braking. New discs on the rear a couple of months ago. Front discs are slightly worn, about 1mm lip. Looking on Euro Car Parts there are 2 discs available 19mm thick & 22mm thick other than trying to measure the old disc over years of rust any ideas as to which thickness? Oh and why can't I now search for titles only in a specific forum? Typing in "disc" and clicking titles only brings up a few threads in this forum yet doing a Google search brings up other threads in the forum with disc in the title that are not listed!

Mine's awful in the snow, summer tyres and a DSG box don't like snow. with a manual gearbox you can set off in 3rd, it stops excessive wheel spin. Not possible with a DSG. I had to resort to snow socks yesterday.

I have no access to any diagnostics so I'll feel at the hoses.

Possibly, that's what I was thinking.