pinstripe

it is 2007 1.9 85kw BPZ engine code

thanks for quick responds...boy, i need it Now, it gives me comfort that it is ok for the tensioner to move while rotating the crankshaft by hand. but what buggers me the most is why the hell the belt moves to the inner edge of the camshaft sprocket, when i am 100% sure i set it on the middle. I haven't check it with VCDS yet, (car is in part - front off), but i know now that it is going to be spot on 0.0 but will jump +0.5, -0.5 while hot (at certain rmps - and at this moments i can feel a bit rough running). (the most prob due to moving of the cam belt line on the camshaft sprocket, when running) This same thing happened with my old belt in place (that was the reason, i started this job) and with the fact, that when with the engine cold the marker of the tensioner was about more than 1 cm off to the left from the marking..

Hi, i am doing a DIY time belt change I did everything as it should be. Everything was changed as should be and the timing tools were used. Problem is that the hydraulic tensioner moves when rotating (two spins) on the crankshaft. The nut is set to 20nM + 45 torque, and the pointer is in the middle of the set position. I did it two times and again it moves and it stops 3mm of the middle to the left. I don't wanna do it again ...not to damage the nut on the tensioner. and Although the belt is set on the middle everywhere, after to rotation, it moves to the inner edge of the camshaft? Can i leave it like this - any advice is appreciated.

hey rotodiesel you are 100% correct; stupid of me - the toothed window rotates and it can be on one spot - disregard this statement please. i had gone and immediately checked the tensioner (look at the pic); it is way of i would say... i could bet, this might be the reason for poor alignment of tooth belt. You already answered my next question - can i adjust it ? can i try? or i am pushing my luck? and if, do i need to have the locking tools for this action? My thought is; untight it just as much to re-align the toothbelt and then tight it back to the spec. torque. ?

rotodiesel many thanks for this explanation i have VCDS and KW was -2.5 and in driving jumped on some rpm on -2.9 and back to -2.5 i did the adjusting (loosen the 3 bolts on the cam sprocket and moved the big bolt clockwise-just a hairline) i checked again and it was dead 0.0 - while driving on some rpm goes to -0.5 and back to 0.0 i got more bottom power but i think it is now less fuel efficient. after this adjustment the belt moved more to inner edge as it can be seen from pics and what i noticed just now - the toothed window is not on the top but is now completely on the west side - is this how it should be or is now something seriously wrong? it starts and runs normaly..

thank you rotodiesel. can you put me in direction of how to set KW correctly while i have it in this position? As i can see, i can go only counterclockwise - but with this approach i would again put it to retarded timing...or i am not taking everything into consideration... ?

Further.... I had replaced the funnel (plastic tube) and it is 4/5 better ...but there is still some hisss (but nothing to worry about) due to the perfect engineering of VW - there is no O-ring where the tube is connected to metal. i have checked the turbo too. I have taken off the rubber hose going to turbo and inspected the impeller and bearing for any play - but everything seams to be in perfect order. There is even almost no oil in the hose. Just enough to make your finger dirty. So, with no more air in the cooling system and heater matrix, no vacuum leak, nothing wrong with the turbo and actuator rod in working order, i am still wondering why there is still - excessive black smoke present - no pressure in the cooling system - not smooth running at 1100 1800-1900 and around 2500-2700 rpm EDIT: I sorted it somehow - but: in VCDS the group 04 KW was between -2,5 to -2,9 and even jumped to -3,4 one time i did the injection timing (clockwise) and is now 0.0 i get more bottom power and less vibration -though still presnet i would increase it to 1.0 but there is no more room - bolts are on the and of the line + my tooth belt is now on the inner edge how to fix this?

hi, can please somebody check if you set temp to "LO" when having ac on does the rec recirculation flap turn on? (and not being indicated on the display - the round arrow) Thanks.

still - better to check with climatronic - what is real temp. The gauge sits at 90 even if the real temp is 76 C. (or VCDS)

yes, just make sure to mach code with your engine, i believe there are two kind of this sensors (with 3 pin and 4 pin) Does your temp gauge sits at 90 when engine is operating a while?

+1

@jimbof i would not agree 100% factory ones do fail all the time, but when you shield them one by one with silicone against rain or any wet conditions then they become flawless. At least i had done so, and now after 2 years, all working fine all the rest i completely agree with you.

to recap... i had changed the receiver drier (it was leaking after all) 30€ and regas and it is now stone cold. Very happy. now when it has a pressure the electric fan is working on high speed as well but i would still have question for you: - when i set to "lo" sometimes (or always) the recirculation flap comes on (but it is not indicated on climatronic), if in this moment, recirc button is pressed there is no action - only if i increase temp to 21 or so the recirculation stops itself. Is this normal in any case? - can somebody check if you set to "LO" when having ac on does the rec recirculation flap turn on? (and not being indicated on the display - the round arrow) Thanks.

like it!

i always put in Castrol 5-30 edge fst (chnage every 15-20k km)

i had replaced filters and did an oil change recently...my 1.9 took 3,7 L definitely you can go with Mann filters (as highlighted here on forum by many users...) - quality and good fit ...a little expensive though

don't take red one (for auto. transmition) it will influence the servo system with time...

timwgt thanks and good luck with the install - can't be of any help with this issue

additionally... i have taken a look at a drier, and it seams as it has a leak or this is nothing ...?? does anyone knows in what state drier should be? and again...if this is some kind of a leak, would this explain the problem from my first post? and if, can it be fixed somehow or new one should be installed? thanks

timwgt how do you that you need to replace the air conditioning evaporator? what were/are the symptoms? thx

hey ..thanks for reply well - the motor operates from Hi to Lo point (just that it sets Lo already prior to that..let say at 26C - counting down from Hi) Recirculating flap motor works from open to close fully - just that if it is set to "Lo" it opens by itself and i can get it to close - accept if i increase to the point where the temp flap starts to move again towards "Hi" then the Recirculating flap closes again by itself - furthermore on that range forward towards "Hi" i can set Recirculation with the button again (open and close) so i would say, that the problem of the temperatures and AC not cooling enough or just a bit- at a certain conditions, as stated in my first post- lays somewhere else yes, we had just returned from holidays from the coast and ti was a nightmare - when we stopped, my mother in law had wet white pants (as she would **** on herself) from sweat so this was then a point of no return: I MUST find a problem and fix this - i have run through the forums, but i just couldn't find the similar issue (sorry i did but the guy never posted a solution) help much appreciated

Dear colleagues, I have checked the temp flap a while ago and the find is that it is intermittent in meaning of: -if i set the temp to "hi" it goes to the end (checked with VCDS) and does the job -if i decrease it by one, it start decreasing but not as it should - it comes to end position already at set temp of 26 sometimes 24...sometimes at 19 - after it comes to the end position the setting i set lower than that it has no meaning any more concerning the V68 - temp motor but the point is it still did it's job - (with no errors in VCDS) i did basic settings - no change OK so far - i guess i need to replace it. but now, i have noticed lately that my AC does not cool sufficiently. (sill no errors with VCDS) - when i set to "lo" sometimes the recirculation flap comes on (but it is not indicated on climatronic), if recirc button is pressed there is no action - only if i increase temp to 21 or so the recirculation stops itself. - if i set the blower to 1-2 bars it gets cooler (looking at center Vent) but it can't go below 18C 15:28:49 Group 007: Temperatures II 18.0°C Center Vent (G191) Temperature 31.0°C Footwell (G192) Temperature 32.0°C Dash Panel (G56) Temperature 30.0°C Evaporator (G263) Temperature - if i set the blower to 3-5 bars it gets warmer (looking at center Vent) 15:25:35 Group 007: Temperatures II 25.0°C Center Vent (G191) Temperature 31.0°C Footwell (G192) Temperature 31.0°C Dash Panel (G56) Temperature 32.0°C Evaporator (G263) Temperature Wednesday,06,July,2016,15:28:51:65217 VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator VCDS Version: Release 12.12.0 (x64) Data version: 20130910 outside is 29C As i can read this, the Evaporator temp is to high - as i understand it should be 5C ? AC was re-gased and checked for leak just last year .. Electric fan is engaged when AC is set to Auto as well as the clutch - and is working whole the time until set to Econ Funny thin is that i never hear it working on high speed...but it probably should ..having outside temperature in mind, AC on and stationary at least? here are additional data: 15:13:57 Group 006: Temperatures I && Photo Sensor 29.0°C Calculated Temperature 37.0°C Fresh Air Duct Temperature (G89) 34.5°C Outside Air Temperature (G17) 35.5 % Sunlight Photo Sensor (G107) Wednesday,06,July,2016,15:04:20:65217 VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator VCDS Version: Release 12.12.0 (x64) Data version: 20130910 Any pointer, where to start looking ?

Further.... today a had replaced the funnel (plastic tube) and it is 4/5 better ...but there is still some hisss (but nothing to worry about) due to the perfect engineering of VW - there is no O-ring where the tube is connected to metal. i have checked the turbo too. I have taken off the rubber hose going to turbo and inspected the impeller and bearing for any play - but everything seams to be in perfect order. There is even almost no oil in the hose. Just enough to make your finger dirty. So, with no more air in the cooling system and heater matrix, no vacuum leak, nothing wrong with the turbo and actuator rod in working order, i am still wondering why there is still - excessive black smoke present - no pressure in the cooling system - not smooth running at 1100 1800-1900 and around 2500-2700 rpm Can somebody help me with some pointers what to check next or what can be the most obvious thing to look for? thanks

i am struggling to find out why is having excessive black smoke and and some not smooth running at 1100 1800-1900 and around 2500-2700 rpm - always at this rpm. I did a vacuum leak test and find out it leaks a bit at the bottom of the dipstick (orange tube) when is connected to the engine block. - first i need to replace it and maybe this will sort the issue. ...the problem with no pressure in expansion tank may be connected to this. that is why i am not sure if it's OK or not, as is?

Well, i did wanted to start at the cheapest fix if possible, so i have already replaced with new cap, with same result. And fact is, that i have no coolant loss. There is no bloody hisss when i remove the cap. But maybe that is how it needs to be and it's a proper function - i don't know any more...