pinstripe

to recap this ...in this time i did several bleeding's with no result. Yesterday i did a core flush and there were a lot of rust cruds came out. no it finally seams i have cured the swoosh sound it the dash.

to recap this ...in this time i did several bleeding's with no result. Yesterday i did a core flush and there were a lot of rust cruds came out. no it finally seams i have cured the swoosh sound it the dash. but still no pressure when opening the cap from a expansion tank...

0wl thanks for pointers. Yesterday i did a vacuum leak test ...and i got hiss from the oil dipstick - it is not cracked it just has a play of some 2-3 mm. Do you believe that this might contribute to issue i have. - or is this normal? As i could learn the dipstick does not have something like an O-ring (in case i buy and fit a new one) do you believe it would be a tight fit? Or i just take it off and put some loctite seal on it (i am just scared that it might brake in process of taking it off)? thanks

sorry mate...

Actually no. i never did it. and personally i haven't seen it yet on this model of superb. I believe it is not to hard to find a spot to run the wires, but i might be trickier to engage them when you want them to. With some sort of a button i guess... (the rear ones are connected to the reverse lights i believe or on the gear selector. For the fronts you will have to seek other ways. It would be neat to have them connect to the reverse and on the button by need. Sorry i can not be of more help. EDIT: you may as well search other forums for similar aftermarket installation... just a thought

i couldn't tell if it had fronts, but i believe it is possible. Do you have originals or after market ones? If the last then you just connect them to so live wire and you have separate module for them. If you have originals (w/o the module) you would have to run the wires to the existing module to the back and connect them together with the rear ones. - it should work.

Ok...further. Just checked the check valve ( the small black & white cylindrical device) and is working properly (can blow from one side but blocks from other side) Cleaned the boost pressure sensor (although, i don't get any errors when scanned with VCDS) I checked the actuator rod as well - it is moving as it should. There are no strange noises from turbo. still no changes... just to add to my 1st post - i get sluggish acceleration (can be seen from a graph) and more black smoke still open to ideas

I just did the check of all hoses (from turbo to intercooler and from it, as well as from airbox to turbo) and all lines from N75. I did a good check (taken hoses out or from underneath and from above - i used a mirror too, so i could view it from all angles. Officialy, i can report there is no leak all are in perfect condition. What i didn't do is pressure test - i don't have the pump or right tool to do it. Based on graph - do you believe it is N75 that can malfunction in such a way? or how to test it? Maybe any other possibilities? Thanks in advance.

and here is group 10 if it is of any additional help graph in att. MassAir Abs.Pres.Abs.Pres. Load 250 989,4 1009,8 16,1 330 989,4 999,6 25,1 435 989,4 999,6 29,8 460 989,4 1030,2 52,2 515 989,4 1060,8 100 540 989,4 1111,8 100 570 989,4 1173 100 600 989,4 1224 100 645 989,4 1295,4 99,2 680 989,4 1366,8 97,6 730 989,4 1448,4 97,6 760 989,4 1530 98 840 989,4 1611,6 98 900 989,4 1703,4 98 965 989,4 1815,6 98,4 1000 989,4 1917,6 100 1030 989,4 2009,4 100 1075 989,4 2091 100 1095 989,4 2172,6 100 1040 989,4 2213,4 100 915 989,4 2142 100 880 989,4 2040 100 880 989,4 1968,6 100 885 989,4 1917,6 100 895 989,4 1887 100 885 989,4 1876,8 100 895 989,4 1876,8 100 905 989,4 1887 100 935 989,4 1897,2 100 930 989,4 1927,8 100 940 989,4 1948,2 100 955 989,4 1968,6 100 960 989,4 1999,2 100 975 989,4 2029,8 100 995 989,4 2060,4 100 1010 989,4 2101,2 100 1010 989,4 2131,8 100 1020 989,4 2162,4 100 1025 989,4 2182,8 100 1015 989,4 2193 100 1000 989,4 2172,6 100 980 989,4 2152,2 100 955 989,4 2111,4 100 935 989,4 2070,6 100 915 989,4 2029,8 100 915 989,4 2009,4 100 915 989,4 1999,2 100 910 989,4 1999,2 100 925 989,4 2009,4 100 920 989,4 2019,6 100 930 989,4 2029,8 100 935 989,4 2029,8 100 930 989,4 2040 100 940 989,4 2040 100 940 989,4 2050,2 100 940 989,4 2050,2 100 935 989,4 2050,2 100 930 989,4 2050,2 100 925 989,4 2050,2 100 925 989,4 2050,2 100 930 989,4 2050,2 100 910 989,4 2050,2 100 920 989,4 2040 100 915 989,4 2040 100 915 989,4 2040 100 915 989,4 2040 100 910 989,4 2040 100 915 989,4 2040 100 905 989,4 2040 100 905 989,4 2040 100 910 989,4 2029,8 100 910 989,4 2029,8 100 905 989,4 2029,8 100 900 989,4 2029,8 100 900 989,4 2029,8 100 915 989,4 2029,8 100 910 989,4 2029,8 100 895 989,4 2029,8 100 900 989,4 2029,8 100 895 989,4 2029,8 100

Can anyone help me read this graph (attached) or where is obvious to start looking for a problem to me it seams it could be N75? but i am not sure or maybe some air leak somewhere - but cant really hear it. tdi 1.9, 115hp, 2007 Group 11 or here are full figures RPM Abs.Pres Abs.Pres.A Duty Cycle % 1491 1162,8 1040,4 72,6 1491 1183,2 1050,6 71,4 1512 1213,8 1071 69,8 1554 1866,6 1091,4 80,5 1533 1866,6 1122 80,1 1554 1887 1183,2 80,1 1575 1897,2 1264,8 80,1 1596 1907,4 1346,4 79,7 1638 1938 1428 79,7 1659 1958,4 1519,8 76,1 1680 1968,6 1601,4 67,5 1722 1999,2 1693,2 58 1743 2019,6 1805,4 51,3 1785 2019,6 1907,4 46,6 1806 2029,8 2009,4 43,4 1869 2029,8 2091 40,6 1890 2040 2162,4 35,9 1932 2040 2233,8 32 1974 2040 2233,8 32,4 2016 2040 2131,8 42,2 2058 2040 2029,8 45,4 2100 2040 1948,2 46,9 2121 2040 1887 48,1 2163 2040 1856,4 48,5 2205 2040 1836 48,9 2247 2040 1846,2 48,1 2289 2040 1856,4 46,9 2310 2040 1876,8 46,2 2352 2040 1897,2 45,4 2394 2040 1927,8 44,2 2436 2040 1958,4 43,4 2478 2040 1989 42,2 2520 2040 2029,8 41 2541 2040 2060,4 40,2 2583 2040 2091 38,7 2625 2040 2121,6 37,5 2667 2040 2152,2 35,1 2709 2040 2172,6 33,5 2730 2040 2182,8 32,4 2772 2040 2182,8 32,4 2814 2040 2172,6 33,1 2856 2040 2152,2 33,9 2898 2040 2111,4 36,3 2919 2040 2080,8 36,7 2961 2040 2040 37,5 2982 2040 2009,4 37,9 3024 2040 1989 37,9 3066 2040 1989 37,5 3108 2040 1989 37,1 3129 2040 1999,2 37,1 3171 2040 2009,4 36,7 3192 2040 2019,6 36,3 3234 2040 2029,8 35,9 3276 2040 2029,8 35,9 3297 2040 2029,8 35,9 3339 2040 2029,8 35,5 3360 2040 2029,8 35,5 3402 2040 2029,8 35,5 3423 2040 2029,8 35,1 3465 2040 2029,8 34,7 3486 2040 2029,8 34,7 3507 2040 2040 34,3 3549 2040 2040 34,3 3570 2040 2040 33,9 3612 2040 2040 33,9 3633 2040 2040 33,9 3654 2040 2040 33,5 3696 2040 2029,8 33,5 3717 2040 2029,8 33,1 3738 2040 2029,8 33,1 3780 2040 2029,8 32,7 3801 2040 2029,8 32,7 3843 2040 2029,8 32,4 3864 2040 2029,8 32,4 3906 2040 2040 32 3927 2040 2040 31,6 3948 2040 2040 31,6 3969 2040 2029,8 32

my 1st guess would be to check the brake switch .. under break pedal br

thank you on all the details i'll try first with VCDS and Climatronic to be 100% sure it is the V68 only then ill dig in if necessary... will report back!

do you believe V68 can be fixed or better to replace? thanks for this - will report back on this in few days ..just run the VCDS - no faults ...???

@jimbof: do you believe that in my case: after cold start is soon starts to blow very hot air - if i set the ECON mode to 22 c it blows at least 28 or more. - if i put it down to LO i get the somewhere normal temp. After some time it comes back to normal 22 is then 22. would this be a symptom of poor V68? anyway. thanks for a good write-up

i have fixed window regulator today, successfully. Within 3h. and it cost me 14€. I have used this: http://www.ebay.de/itm/VW-PASSAT-3B-FENSTERHEBER-REPARATURSATZ-KOMPLETT-MITNEHMER-VORNE-LINKS-/151613610694?hash=item234ce01ac6:g:Ub8AAOSwzOxUVXWo if it helps...

I did it today within 3h. Sure it was easier with your detailed write up Nackuk. Thank you for that. Although, i would point to only two things that i had come across. I will use your pictures if that is ok - I forgot to take mines: When prying the lock off the metal plate (two pins) i have pushed through the middle of the pin with a screwdriver (both pins). After that, you just detach the plate. You can find pins inside of the door later when you remove the plate. When putting back..you just hold the lock with your finger (that you stick through the hole for a lock cable) and push pins back to the holes. second thing that i found easier to do was: i have bought the cable that come with the rolled wire already (it was only 1€ more than without) you place it as described by Nackuk, with the difference - you prepare the cable, then you push the pin out that is in the middle of the bottom left guide (see the below picture) That way you can remove the guide, put the cable around it and than put it back in place - put the pin back through. This way you don't need to bend the metal. Thank you Nuckuk once again.

was there any significant noise as a warning - or did it just came off?

hardly... possible if you had strong water ingress and the inside of the box holding CCM was wet my bet would be wires leading to CCM or broken solder joints (if not wires in B pillar)

+1 for bigjohn take it apart and lubricate the shafts....do this yearly if you leave it as is .. you can burn the motor

huh...this was lucky..in some way did you had any noise prior to this event? and if how long? .. that would give you any warning or it was sudden? i believe i am hearing some noise in that part and i just might end like you... sorry that i can not be of any help ... but i sure will be thankful for any advice as well

huh totally forgot about this but only because it hasn't been fix yet. I did strip the door in mean time but with no results...it appears to be in order and no corrosion what so ever. I couldn't find the problem so i live with it thru this freezing months I have spotted some posts that would indicate a problem in the wing mirror ... is it possible? when we get some sun i will look into it. thanks to all so far

guys ..thanks for feedback appreciated.. but to my checks the alternator pully is fine even the tensioner seams to be in order i got noise in the bottom ...as it can be seen from the picture where it says 6mm allen so the tensioner or aircon ? - and if this can be changed from underneth w/o service position? thx

Lately i am hearing some noise (not belt squeal) from belt tensioner for aircon or aircon pully area. Is there something else there beside this to be considered? And how easy is to replace tensioner or pully - do i need to put it into service position or is it duable from underneath? appreciated.. 1.9, 115, 2007

as jimbof said or you just cut the bolt on the alternator and then replace it with two new ones...

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