HUD Engineer

A very helpful guy called Anthony at Vindis Skoda was able to establish that the difference between the springs is that the Blue YYY are stiffness Grade 4, while the Blue OO Brown are Grade 6, hence why my normally unladen car is riding much higher at the back now Both grades are currently available parts, but it isn't obvious why my car had the Grade 4 springs on, unless it left the factory with them, as there is no record of them being changed. As langers2k noted, the replacement springs I was supplied are entirely correct for the PR code of the car, OYF, but it currently isn't clear whether the BYYY (OYD) were considered by Skoda to be a suitable alternative for my car at some point. If they are, the next challenge is arguing that I had pointed out what I had fitted on the car, when the new springs were ordered, but wasn't given the option of re-ordering the same thing. Now, I have a stiffer ride, which I didn't want, but may be what Skoda always intended...

Wow, impressive detail. Thanks for the part numbers, which tallies with what they supplied. I didn't know about the full PR list. I asked my dealer in an email: they ignored it, but reassured me that the springs are compatible, and to just give them time to settle. I'll try again, or sign up to the service I never knew existed. It leaves me wondering what a lottery it is trying to get the right springs from any other source, like ECP, if there are so many options. Thanks to others that have repied too. I've learnt a bit this weekend...

More than two years on, the WD-40 sprayed liberally into the parking sensors seems to have been very effective, and I've not applied any more so far as I can recall. Andy

I also found a link to the planet VAG site that let me check my 46 option codes... 2UC says it is a sports model, and H6L confirms the 225/45/17 tyres. PRCode: L55 = "Suspension range 55 installation control only no requirement forecast" leaves me unsure, and PRCode: G02 = "Front shock absorption" - leaves me a bit puzzled.. shock absorption, or no shock absorption?? From what mikey VRS says, we are on the same front springs, and I suspect blue + yellow + yellow + yellow is Octavia II VRS Estate. But was it on the original car spec or not?? And what is Blue , 2 x Orange, Brown really intended for? Andy

They put a fluorescent dye in last time, and ran it then, but said there was no sign of a leak at that stage, either. Will the dye have left a trace, or will they be back to square one? Is getting it refilled again, and having another concerted period of use likely to get the seal to do it's job, or does someone need to replace every seal in the system?

Yes, on the outside face of the spring coils. On the fronts, on mine at least, they are conveniently located facing the tyre, on each side, but at the back I think one may face forward, on the O/S/R, while the N/S/R faces back, and are on the slightly more than half way up the spring. A torch and a damp cloth may help reveal what you have...and a bit less rain... Andy

My 56 plate car was regassed in October last year, then May this year. They reported there was no leak, but a month later it was sounding a bit odd and sloshy, and now there isn't any cold air. If it isn't a leak, what is going on? Thanks, Andy

Be advised that the bottom bolts, at least in the case of my 2006 Octavia Mk ii L&K Estate, are stretch bolts, and new ones should be used, tightened to 90Nm and then tightened a further 90 degrees. Now, the problem I have is this: I understood my Octavia (which I purchased from a dealer when it was 3 years old) was originally specified with VRS suspension, but I may have been misinformed by the dealer. When I removed the broken spring (last 3" of coil, that all rests on the lower buffer), I found both rears marked 1x Blue, 3x Yellow (The fronts are 1x White, 3x Red) When I rang Skoda, they checked, using the VIN, and told me that according to the database, I should have 1x Blue, 2x Orange, 1x Brown. I queried this, pointing out that I had Blue, Yellow, Yellow, Yellow, and the technician within earshot of the Parts counter guy said, yes, they were compatible. But while the springs in their uncompressed state appeared to be the same length, the car now sits a good inch and a half higher at the back, on both sides, and looks odd. Can anyone else advise if I now have a VRS front and a normal rear, so to speak? How can I check if this was original from the factory, or not? I believe the additional build data codes the options, in some fashion, but don't know how to proceed. Thanks, Andy

OK, so in my case - phantom obstructions, and no towbar - One generous dose of WD40 sprayed onto each sensor and the excess swabbed off with kitchen towel seems to have restored them to normal operation. They have been back to normal for about two weeks so far. Reversing is no longer the audio annoyance that it was. Call me happy.

Where did you get to on this? I have a similar problem, but no towball to explain it. All four sensors are clicking steadily, but phantom obstructions are being reported. Sometimes they do work properly for a few seconds, and I suspect that only happens during sustained dry spells. I keep the car clean, and don't jet wash the car, but when they are playing up, drying them with a tissue does not remedy them. I've resorted to WD40, to see if it can chase any damp out, and I'm already thinking of giving each a gentle bake with a hair drier, to see if I can make them behave, but not feeling too hopeful. Now that we don't have incautious children playing around our cars, the sense of need is reduced, so I may resort to disabling the system rather than living with the noise and mistrust that they are inducing. I seem to recall someone suggested dampness on the back of the sensors, where the wires go in, but cannot refind that article, if it was on this forum, as I suspect it was. Thanks, Andy

Ah, thanks. A useful link - now bookmarked - so long as "Disassembly wedge -3409-" isn't too intricate. A bit of a challenge, just to change a light, but an inconsiderate rear-end shunt doesn't appeal either. Much more informative than the Haynes manual for my Mk1 Octavia was, as I recall when I wanted to remove a door panel.

Hi. I've just been advised that my High Level Brake Light isn't working at all, and was handed an MOT Certificate at the same time. At home, I confirmed their observation, and then tapped my kuckles on the top of the housing, and an incomplete row of LEDs turned on. Tapped it again, and they went off, then on again, dimly. So I suspect a dodgy supply or earth, and my inclination is towards the latter. Having read how easily the trim clips can be broken, but also how vague the Haynes manual is for the Octy II, I'm wondering where the best practical assistance is for this task, which should be trivial. Any advice? By the way, someone mentioned replacing individual LEDs. I'd be up for that, but it would be nice to know the specific part numbers before embarking on the job. Thanks, Andy

Settled on just a pair of Primacy IIIs for now, from F1 Autocentres. £209.50 fitted. Note that Michelin currently have a promotion on that gives you a £50 fuel voucher if you purchase 2 or more tyres for 17" rims. The offer only runs to the end of April, mind. The first impression is that the new Primacy IIIs are noisier than the (admittedly worn) Pilot Sport IIIs.

I'm keen to hear feedback on the Primacy III's as my Pilot Sport III's are due for replacement soon, and I too had noticed the hint of lower rolling resistance. It looks like the Primacy tread has more chance of getting a bite on snow than the PS3's, for which snow was their nemesis.

I'm on the point of buying some new tyres for my Octavia L&K Estate, running on sports suspension, and 17" rims, and the Michelin Primacy III's have caught my eye. I've had some gently driven Pilot Sport III's which have lasted about 20,000 miles having swapped fronts and backs at some point, and as always, Michelin never fails to impress me. However, I see the Primacy III's offer lower rolling resistance, possibly yielding higher mileage or a harder ride, so I'm interested in how your ride has been affected. Norfolk is a bit too far out of my way, so I will look closer to home.

In my case, Skoda told me that they removed the sump plug and replaced it with another, supposedly without a problem, but perhaps with a dollop of sealant that I have not yet looked out for. Oh well, under the 2yr Skoda service deal, they will be doing it again come the autumn. I hope they are being honest, but it is interesting to know there are a few cases of mangled sump threads. Bad luck. It sounds as though, like me, you prefer to do the job properly yourself, rather than have to pay premium rates for botched work on straight forward servicing. It suggests a weak design. Andy

Not bad, but FIAT D would be spot on for a 500.

My source for the rule change (apparently effective December 2010) was http://www.theaa.com...s.html.Studying it more closely, it seems visiting cars are only violating the law if they are using summer tyres and encounter wintry conditions. See http://www.theaa.com...pdf. Violators may be fined 80 or 40 euros depending on whether they are obstructing traffic or not.As over here, new cars are generally purchased with alloy wheels with summer tyres (and possibly purchased with a winter set at the same time), but it is very common practice in Germany to have a set of steel wheels with winter tyres fitted, either stacked at the end of the garage/underground parking bay or stored in a "tyre hotel", rather than swapping tyres over on to the same rims. That is a good thing, otherwise very long queues would form at the tyre bays at the official start and end dates of winter in Germany.

Hi All, I've not seen it mentioned elsewhere in this thread, but for anyone heading for Germany in the winter, even visiting cars now have to have "M&S" marked tyres, apparently. Over there, most of the natives fit steel wheels for two practical aspects: discovering a kerb beneath the snow is possible, so people don't wince at the effect as much as if it happens to their alloys, and secondly, the police are more likely to want to inspect a car running on alloys in the winter, to see whether they have the correct tyres for the season. For anyone wanting or needing the option to fit chains, you need to check whether the "ET" or Offset of the wheels, and the size of the tyres are suitable for your needs. Note the "ja" or "nein" references in the TUV document. The MyTyres website does indicate whether a given wheel and tyre combination will allow chains to be used, but it could be easily overlooked while choosing from their range of alloy wheels and tyres. Andy

Good question. Mine was replaced under warranty, and I didn't bother to ask for the old part. I gather the new sirens are a better design, and aren't so prone to flattening the car battery as the device ages. Whether they have designed a more graceful expiry than sounding the alarm as you drive along is something we will have to find out... It is worth noting here that some of the possible symptoms of a failing siren are: Circumstance - the siren has a "service life" of six years. Mine failed at about 5.5 years, on a little used car. If your car is parked up for days at a time, you may notice the car battery going flat, as the failing unit sucks more current than it should. If you lock the car, but don't hear the chirp, that is another symptom of it heading for retirement. If the siren sounds while you drive along...

Yes, I thought about the internal cabin temp sensor. I did ponder where the temperature sensor is fitted, and wondered whether a flap position could cause the sensor to get chilled while the driver wasn't so cool, but it doesn't really fit the way it shut down for indifinite periods. So, as it is generally OK, is it just extreme heat that might cause it to start misreading? I'm lothe to visit my dealer now that the car is out of warranty, as they want to charge me forty to fifty pounds every time the word "diagnostic" is mentioned. In anticipation of replacing the battery, I rang them to find out whether I needed the Radio Code. "That'll be £42 to plug in and read the code, sir". However, it turns out that my car radio is resilient to flat batteries, which the service centre guy simply neglected to mention... If anyone local to Worcester is offering to scan the car for faults, I'm happy to let them have a go.

If your car has a Siren (that normally chirps when you lock the car) that is around 6 years old, that may be what is cauing your battery to discharge. Expect some other siren related symptoms around this point also, like absence of chirps when locking, or sounding the siren while driving. The siren is a "service" item... If you are fitting a new car battery, check the dimensions of the existing one, to save yourself another trip to the battery suppliers: On mine, several alternative parts were listed but the height of the battery is important: I selected a Bosch S4 100 from the list, but found that a height of 175mm means the Negative lead terminal clamp fouls the plastic battery housing. For myself, a 190mm tall battery was required, with a Bosch S4 096 (74AH) now doing the job.

On my 56 plate L&K, while it was under warranty (I bought the car 3 years old with just 8600 miles, and purchased a Skoda Extended Warranty for 3 years), the siren expired, and was replaced under warranty. The cruise control buttons went wrong, and the stalk was repaced with a new design that allows the On/Off button on the top edge to incorporate a Cancel function without actually being slid to Off. My right stalk is a bit problematic: sometimes the Reset button presses are treated as Down button presses, which can make navigating the MFD Setup Menus a bit challenging. However, it is out of warranty now :-( but at only 33,000 miles, I like to think there is plenty of life left in it.

Sunny weekend car: An MX-5 in winning blue (almost the same shade as a VRS), which hasn't had as many outings in glorious sunshine this year. Runabout: A Clio MkII 80 dCi. A cracking little car. I had a 1998 LR Discovery TD5, but it was an unhappy ownership experience. I expect a 1998 300 series was a better prospect.

With my standard Mk 1 Octavia, I managed to scrape the front bumper against kerbs on a couple of occasions. With my Mk II L&K on sport suspension, I seem to have managed to take more care, touch wood. Sadly, I have managed to mark one of the 17" Pegasus alloys against the "rustic" kerbstones along Plymouth Hoe Road, whose uneven edging defeats the protection of the Michelin Pilot Sport 3 tyres that feature a Rim Protection Ridge. Advice from a Continental Tyres consultant (at a talk on Winter tyres that I attended last year) is that while you can consider going down a wheel size, they don't endorse going down from 17" to 15" unless that size is specifically stated as an option for that variant of car. I've not managed to establish whether 15" rims are approved for use on my L&K.