Gonzaga

I can`t say it`s better or not because I didn`t delete n249, but after replacing some broken hoses under the inlet manifold including in n249 system I really have no problems with boost pressure or turbo surging. So I don`t see the point of deleting something which in my opinion works perfectly. I think the main thing is that some people didn`t get to bottom of boost or surge problems and started pulling everything out in hope it will resolve ongoing issues.

Before you do anything take a look here; http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/554859-N249-delete-Why-you-should-not-do-it

One non related question; I`m not from UK and in my country if you remap a car or do some "lighter stealth" mods (stage 2) insurance is the same as for stock car. What would happen for example; remap a car and don`t tell insurance company? or even stage 2 hardware mods? Do they really visually check car or ?

you`re gay?

Usually when thermostat is changed, housing is also changed because it can deform.

MAF sensor must be for vrs auq engine, if it`s not it can cause all kinds of problems, especially low readings. There are at least 5 different MAF sensors for 1.8T. Buy a Bosch one because it`s cheaper then a OEM one, only difference from OEM is there`s no škoda/audi part number stamped on the sensor.

If it`s more than -10%+10% in both block

That`s for AGU engine with narrowband lambda not for AUQ/AUM engine with precat wideband lambda sonda B1S1 and postcat sonda B1S2

vrs in start-stop city drive 24mpg (imp) or 11,5L/100km

My guess 5500rpm+ If the wastegate was lose, you would be loosing boost @3500rpm where it peeks, not at higher revs where boost is 0.8bar

Just be sure to use the latest version which is 710N, my car boost 1.5bar with stock DV and holds pressure without any problems.

LSD

Did you changed your fuel filter? Walbro is more than enough for your setup. Log via vag com IDC, if it`s higher than 20ms your injectors are clogged or too small and can`t supply enough fuel.

hahhahahha Dude, same here

I doubt that the spark plugs are the problem, more likely some sensor is playing up. First, scan for fault codes and especially take a look at block 002 and 032.

How much was it and where did you ordered it from?

is it k04-001 or K04-023? Either way your fuel pump and injectors can`t support current setup. S3 have 3"MAF housing and stock MAP sensor is OK for K04 setup.

4bar FPR on a stock AUQ fuel pump is like beating a dead horse. IMHO totally pointless. Not all "stage 2" have exactly the same hardware, so some vrs don`t have a problem with fueling some like my and cossie had. My stock injectors couldn`t supply enough fuel so I have them replaced with BAM ones. Above 5000rpm lambda was around 0.88-0.90 which obviously is too high, IDC was stuck at 21ms. Now it`s around 18-19ms. Boost comes nicely to 1.5bar and falls to 0.9-1.0bar@6500rpm.

You should clean and test the flow of fuel injectors because there`s a big possibility some of the junk made it`s way to the fuel rail. Something like this; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tS8kPqnIY4

https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Zagreb,+Croatia Why?

Dude, replace the fuel filter. It`s by far the cheapest part that can cause loss of boost. Your car is probably over 10 years old so it wouldn`t be strange that the fuel pump is also failing.

Look at your AFR at high rpm, it`s should be around 11, 0.2 give or take.

Clogged fuel filter or dying fuel pump.

Any codes? I had the same problem few years ago, it was a MAP sensor. Put my foot down, boost jumps to ~0.6bar and holds, I let go the throttle for a second and then it sort it`s self out.

AUQ ecu can adapt fueling by 25%, when BOV is fitted fuel trims are negative because metered air is blown from the system and there`s a surplus of fuel.