felicia16v

What have you actually done it swapped a bigger engine in or what? As long as you have the matched each, dash and key chip it should be ok I'm not aware of the reader coil on the key barrel being coded to anything.

Not quite.. the block was a completely new design for the 1.4 engine.. the head however !!!

Sounds like maybe the diff bearings are shot allowing the diff to move around and mash it possibly. Can you feel any movement at the driveshaft flange if you pull it up and down etc

anyone with vcds can check the system for faults, but as long as the warning lamp comes on with ign then goes out its working as it should.

tidy did you have to use a resister in the end?

in fairness what you could do is keep your transmission, fit a 5 speed flywheel to your pd150 engine and it will work with your car, obv some wiring to sort for the loom and immob to get around but thats easy. I'm using the 5 speed in my tdi rally car as it's much lighter and more compact.

Oh yeah forgot about the valve for the clutch pack.. I'll try and remember to measure the brush length on the next low mileage one I do and update this with the data

OK but you will need a momentary type switch not on off . You need to use a multimeter on the switch wires to see which ones make contact when it's pressed and use those. But there will be a resister in there somewhere that tells the abs that the switch has been disconnected from the wiring too. Not as simple as it looks I'm afraid.

Um why??. What problem are you trying to fix? One wire and brown is going to be illumination and possibly the other 2 to make the contact to trigger the ecu mode. Are you trying to make it switch on with the engine every time?

Possible but it should have a cam position plausibility fault logged and the eml on if so. Maybe the brakes are dragging lol..

me I took one apart, its a sliding piston pump with a wobble plate quite similar to an ac pump, what my findings are is that water gets into the wiring, the + wire mainly and corrodes it where its soldered to the motor causing the controller to see a higher resistance and shut down, replacing this wire and sealing it properly seems to cured the 4 I've done so far this year. The controller measuring blocks show the hydraulic pressure and as the only connection it has to the rear diff is the pump, no other sensors etc it must calculate the pressure from the load on the pump, I think it does a simple resting resistance check on startup and if its wrong just shuts the pump down until its happy again.

possibly you do have a broken wire in the door hinge,

yes any of the 16v box's will work if they are from the same platform just different gear ratios but most people wouldn't notice tbh anyway.

if its from a golf then you need to drill the block for the lower timing belt roller and swap the plastic backing late so you can use the fabia tensioner and engine mount, plastic water manifold is different on the head but fabia one fits, and the metal coolant pipe that runs around the engine from the thermostat to the heater pipe is different, 6 speed box fits but you will need the alloy mount adaptor from the fabia box, golf shafts are too long so you need vrs ones along with the vrs gear stick and cables, engine bay wiring loom and ecu, exhaust downpipe at least, thats off the top of my head anyway.

yes you and I might but most garages ? first thing they are going to check is autodata for the timing references and give the job to the monkey in the corner lol, tbf the pushrod motors usually just grind to a stop if the chain is that slack to jump a tooth as it will wear a hole thru the timing cover and let the oil out lol.only seen 2 skoda timing chains actually jump teeth in 25 years it's a short duplex chain with decent depth sprockets, anyway we can all guess our sofa's until he actually gets a scan done on it lol..

itb's and a stand alone engine managemnt system (I recommend omex) will get you the best results, gear ratio's can be swapped about easily too think we used 3rd and 4th from a 1.2 along with it's final drive in our endurance car. cg motorsport did us a clutch .

but change the fuel filter first, as checking the cam timing on these is a strip down job and you may as well put a new chain on anyway once you have got that far.

my best guess is that its started to seize the camshaft and jumped a tooth on the belt (or chain if it has one), almost every engine we have had here that has run out of oil has suffered far more in the head than the crank or rings. my bet is on a cam position sensor implausible signal fault logged. scan it, then if nothing obvious there , compression test followed by timing check.

Usually a broken wire in the door hinge area. The wires flex every tone the door is opened and eventually break. Pull the rubber boot back as far as you can and have good look at both front looms.

Just in front of the right hand rear wheel just make notes of which pipes go where as there are 3 of them.

I have repaired a few of these pumps now, the wiring loom into the pump gets corroded and causes a higher resistance so the haldex thinks the pump is bad, I usually run a new pair of wires thru from the haldex to the pump and it fix's the fault, its mainly the power wire (green or blue from memory and if you inspect it close to the where its soldered to the motor you can usually see green corrosion on the wire itself, change the oil at the same time and its fixed.

fuel filter is worth a try before anything else, otherwise could be lots of things.

101 has alloy sump where the 75 has a steel one, 75 has a much smaller throttle body too so lift the airfilter housing off the top of the engine. mostly the 75 engines are bolted to an autobox tho not seen many manual ones.

yes defo worth doing, i did on my old road car, it will make it a bit firmer through the corners.

I came up with that figure after working on felicia's since new. You should be able to lift the pedal up easily if the pedal is tight against the stop then it is putting tension on the cable. So.. options for causing the clutch to slip. either the flywheel has been skimmed badly making it too deep or badly worn and relieving it of clamping force. The release arm is partially seized in the gearbox case. The cable is adjusted wrong or seized causing it to not release properly Or your foot is resting on the pedal gently pressing it down!! A 1.3 pressure plate was fitted which doesn't have enough clamping force for the torque the aee has.