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felicia16v

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Everything posted by felicia16v

  1. No once the airbag module is gone and the Canbus is coded there are no faults mate I ripped lots of wiring out of mine Inc the leccy window and locking stuff. Car just thinks it's a Base model now lol
  2. Yes just reset the long coding but the modules have to be disconnected first otherwise it won't accept the coding. I fitted a speed sensor in the gearbox and wired that to the dash. Think I had to add a pin and code the dash to say which speed sensor to look for. I'm using 02j gearbox so speed sensor mounting etc is already in place.
  3. Not sure if you know or not but.. regarding the airbag light (and abs) if you disconnect the module fully you can then code the canbus controller to say it has no airbags.. no light on dash then. Works the same abs too which is how I did my rally car. Just saves keeping redundant wiring etc. Looking good tho
  4. You would need the driveshafts or at least the inner cvs
  5. Pretty sure thenough 1.4 uses a wastgate turbo so totally different and no vnt to unclog
  6. found us a camper Samantha Marie Evans :)

  7. At a guess the egr valve is stuck open.I would be tempted to blank it off with a bit of tin ( coke can stuff is fine) it's only 2 bolts and cut out a copy of the gasket without the big hole in the centre. Otherwise could be pump timing or injections
  8. Infra red temp gun is handy for checking sensors etc
  9. It's probably the gauge over reading. Possibly someone has fitted the wrong temp sender at some point ? I have a pully just need to remember to remove it and post it now lol.
  10. Could be leaking. . The places to check are usually the heater pipes where they go thru the bulkhead, water pump,the rad itself. If it has the correct pink antifreeze in it you should see a pink stain where its been leaking from.
  11. It's behind the cam pully at around 5 o clock as you look at it. Easy enough job and no need to remove the belt or anything except the upper cover.
  12. Haha the old felicia mixing with the expensive stuff

  13. Haha that looks a laugh.

  14. We had the magic, bohemian l&k lx slx glx and sport I believe. Oh and possibly silver line and black line but I don't think I've seen one of those. L&k had electric front windows and leather seats .
  15. Put a piece of white paper behind it and you you should be able to see clearly what colour it it then from outside
  16. The early spi favs did always seem to make a lot of steam from the tail pipe so unless the coolant level does drop it is probably OK and maybe just needs a new thermostat. The engine running cold will create more steam too as it is richer all the time so I suspect that is your problem. Also the coolant temp sender for the ecu is in the back of the inlet manifold and the wires break to them. The manifolds clog up with silt and the sensor then reports a cooler temp than what the engine actually is too.
  17. Received your ecu today mate hopefully I'll get it done tomorrow lunch time and back in the post. I would leave the absence as it is can't see any benefits to messing really
  18. Oh and if your going to clamp a hose don't clamp the thinner one going to the caliper clamp the one at the front of the axle. I prefer to seal the resiviour with a latex glove tho
  19. You can just replace the sealing washers. They are alloy and corrode over time. From memory they are 16mm with a 12mm hole
  20. Ho hum... Another thing worth remembering is the gearbox is hardly getting any lubrication at all while it is sat in neutral idling all day. 5th gear relies on the diff to push oil to it and the gear idler bearing's are also fed the same way. If the wheels are not turning then they are not getting fresh lube..
  21. The wires from the gearbox on the seat. You mean 2 plugs right ? One plug down the back on the diff housing and one at the front. The fab won't use the rear one as thats the speedo drive on the seat the fab uses the abs sensors instead. The front one is reverse switch you should be able to swap the switch over if the wiring plug is different.
  22. Just remove the adjuster unit and unscrew the ball end about 5mm at least then you can manually adjust the headlight aim so it's not on the ground 3 feet in front of the car. They never stayed working for long even when new. Rubbish idea lol.
  23. Fancy the escort cosworth it's parked next to more tho.. Bet the rear inner arches are still rusty on it lol
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