sc0rpius

Yeah, which was why I bought a mechanic with me who checked it all and took it for a drive and confirmed FSH with the dealers. But yeah looking back I guess he knew the main problem with it and put it on for a low price. Son of a Bitch tbh, hope any cars he buys in future **** up the same way mine did. Money-wise i've always been lucky, got away with quite a few things too which I should have lost my license for but I guess this and other stuff in my life balance it all out.

£100-pump £250-turbo £60 labour £5- gaskets £40 labour £140-clutch £40 labour £20- starter motor £80- caliper Theyre's other parts yet such as the servicing bits but ill also include top mounts with this and MAF altogether around £200. So excluding the servicing ive spent £735 fixing major problems in the first 6 months. I bought it for £2160,at the moment £735 on problems makes it £2900. Luckily I've got away with most of the costs as my dad owns a garage, but he hasn't forgot lol and so the two things that need to be fixed now I'll have to do it at another garage. Tried getting one garage to fix my wheel bearing, they ****ed up my ABS in the process. Gave em £65, but I'll be getting most of that back when I get this new hub put in.

I can only say from my experience so I'm gonna tell it how I see it. Basically you get what you pay for, they're not Audis or VW's in terms of reliability or quality. But for the price you can get a powerful car, looks nice, big boot and all the usual mod cons. I bought mine FSH, 2 owners at 70k miles. Bought a mechanic with me to inspect it, and he gave it the usual good checking over and everything did seem fine and we even confirmed FSH with dealers. Got it home after 60 odd mile trip and the oil light came on, then a dreaded noise (like spanners in the engine). Turned out the oil pump was clogged up and as a result no oil reached the top of the engine (apparently common on VW cars 'oil sludge' ..) so new oil pump, reconditioned turbo and all that was fixed. After this oil started leaking from gaskets near the turbo, only a couple of quid for the gaskets but a difficult job due to location of gaskets. Two months after this the clutch died. Got away with just a new clutch, no need for new DMF. A month ago the starter motor died. And the rear brake caliper was siezed (common apparently), also had new top mounts done. Car has also been serviced in this time (new plugs, air filter ,oil n filter twice in 6 months-10k miles, MAF, brake pads, TB clean, new wipers, indicator relay). So I have been looking after it quite a bit. On top of this ive had a grinding noise when the car turns left, that needs to be fixed. So still not working properly. All this within 6 months of owning it. The two things I need to fix now, is this grinding noise and the ABS (****ing mechanics fault for damaging my hub), the car also steers to the left so im suspecting that has something to do with the grinding noise... After this I intend to tint it and get it mopped/polished. I aint gonna get rid of it now after all this cost... Would I buy another one? No, maybe brand new if it was a real good bargain or a couple of years old one with a good warranty. Second hand? Not a chance.

Too many repairs, only mod yet is LPG conversion. Will be getting the windows tinted, body mopped and polished once the repairs are sorted. After that ill see..

Just bought full front left wheel bearing hub off adiehorrocks on here who is breaking his VRS. Should sort this ABS issue out.

Guys, what would cause it to vibrate? Because aswell as the noise there is a hell of alot of vibration you can feel through the floor.

No need to sell, LPG it. Mine does 80 miles for a tenner on LPG.

Hi, can someone let me know if it's the right one please. The ABS problem is more important for me to fix right now then the grinding noise one. I'm just waiting for the garage who done the wheel bearing to get some time, then im gonna make them sort my ABS out. If they carry on being busy i'll give it to another garage to fix and give them the bill.

Is this the right one and are the rings welded onto it? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Skoda-Octavia-L-H-Front-Wheel-Bearing-Housing-Hub-NEW-/150476062938?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item23091280da

Hello, is it possible to get just the ABS rings for this instead of a brand new hub? http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Skoda_Octavia_1.8_2002/p/Car-Parts/Brakes/Brake-Friction/ABS-Ring/?417440360&1&2fd5907976206fe0e1353ea92a6798f8d8204191&ABRG It says 'front rear', whatever that means...

Got it tracked, it drivers nicer but still the noise. Also one thing ive noticed when my steering wheels full locked to the right somtimes it makes a strange noise. I dont know how to describe it really. Like its been over tightened and somethings unwinding, kinda clicky.

Checked it on a Launch machine and it says Front Left Speed sensor. It didnt give anymore specific information.

Interesting so that means the new track rod end has definately lessened the noise so that it now only makes it when you turn to the left. Why this is I'm not sure, perhaps a mechanic could explain it. Right, tomorrow gonna put it on the ramp and me and my mate are gonna take a look at it, see if we can figure anything out. He's pretty good with cars. After that, ill probably get it tracked too. By the way when you take a tyre off and put it back on, will that knacker up the tracking or will changing something like the wheel bearing hub affect it as I will probably end up doing this eventually too.. But from what it seems like, this noise is something catching or rubbing together when the car is turned left causing a grinding noise and vibration.

The right hand tyres outer thread has been wearing faster then the other tyres. Nah no tracking was done after the new rod end was installed. So thats interesting what you've told me, so the position of the steering wheel has no impact on the driving. cool. After they installed the new rod end arm, the noise now only comes when your turning left before it happened when you was driving straight. The only other difference was that the steering wheel is now when driving straight more to the right. But from what your telling me that won't make a difference? I'm confused now, but one thing can we all rule out the wheel bearing now?

Right, the steering wheel now when driving straight is turned to the right. So the car will be going straight but the steering angle will be more towards the right. Thats why it aint making the noise on a straight now. Also noticed the car skids very often when I am turning left above 25 mph or so, it wont do it when going right. Could my car just need tracking done? I mean could it be so out of align that its causing something to hit when turning left?

Its recommended to use 5w/30 fully synthetic, i would just use that.

Basically they're all part worn and worn around the same. The front left one is winter though but I doubt that would make any difference, it was fine on the old ABS sensor.

Take it off ,you dont really need it.

How can I tell if the ABS rings on the bearing hub have been damaged?

They are very cheap about £10-15, just make sure you get the right size one and when you put it on dont get it dirty.

my rear caliper was stuck thats why it made the noise, got a reconditioned one for £80 and noise all gone.

Finally, could it be anything to do with the fact that the light may need resetting by a machine? I wouldnt have thought it was this as the light is absent until I take it over 70 mph. Another idea, although I dont think it is this. Could it not be seated properly? As I am sure when I first took the car out in the forecourt at low speeds the skidding thing didnt happen. But at least I eliminated one possibility, that it could have been a dirty sensor.

Right, jacked it up myself this morning. The ABS sensor was dirty, cleaned it as best as I could and I thought it was fixed as for a second the low speed tyre skidding/bumping when brakes applied was gone but as soon as I took it back to 70 mph again the same problem. mikey you was saying he could have damaged the hub, which hub would that be the wheel bearing hub or a different one?

Right, im not gonna give up will fix this. My mate at the garage at work is gonna put it on his ramp tomorrow and we will both take a look at it. To summarise: loud grinding noise/vibration coming primarily from the pass front side floor when steering is left or straight, also happened when car was towed and engine was off. never happens when steering is turned right. Noise starts at 20 mph and progressively gets louder upto 30-35 mph, after that it will stay the same. When car is slowing down, noise slows down in the same manner it increases. Things tried: new front left wheel bearing, ARB link, rear wishbone bush, tie rod end, top mounts, new rim/tyre The ABS thing, either damaged ring or dirt on the sensor, either way this will get sorted too. I'm not giving up on this car, apart from these two faults it runs really good. Spent money on it too, so it's gonna be kept. I also intend to tint it and mop/polish the body. One good thing from all this, I have gained a knowledge of cars I did not have beforehand. Also learned to tinker and try to experiment with things by my self. For example there was a broken pipe, literally it had snapped off (one of the breather ones) know the mechanics left it in the same place and put a new pipe thingy on it with jubilee to secure it. It lasted about two days lol because the pipes angle was all wrong, it was being forced at 90 odd degrees to stay in one place. So I routed it around the engine bay so it was at no angle and got some more pipe and put it in between the pipes and re tightened the jubilee clip. And so far its worked a treat and im well chuffed with it because first mechanical 'fix' ive really done lol. So I intend to fix it and learn more.

Spoke to soon, drove it for myself. The noise is not there when in a straight line, its only there when you turn left. And that is because the car needs balancing/tracking when im driving straight the steerings slightly to the right.... So its still there. :( They've change tie rod end arms, changed the rear caliper (which was seized), new rear brake pads, top mounts on the front suspension. So the car is smoother and better to drive now, plus less annoying due to the noise being lessened. The ABS problem is still there, light comes on when above 65 mph and ABS gets disabled... I can live with all of this for know, dad dont want the car back in the garage he's had enough of it. When I have some money, ill see if i can sort it.