sniper29a

If you have developed feeling for car and your car feels different over winter...replace it. No fuel leak - no fear. This pish doesn't help too much anyway. My Skoda Octavia HR I fitted with Polar FIS + shows around 70deg C fuel temp, which is good for diesel cars. Fuel ignites with ease

fuel cooler underneath of driver (in Europe). Maybe it is on other side in UK.

Original OEM coolant radiator is exactly same as 2006 on my Skoda. Heavy high-tech design for maximum effectivity/price. Setrab, Mocal makes exactly same for racing. So unless you use super-materials or another coolant such as 3M Flourinert or faster coolant pump or more coolant, you can't make lighter radiator with same performance....and of course it will not be priced as Polish/Chinese high-tech crap for 30EUR ;-)

no idea, I live in Austria and buy in Czech Republic where I was born and people buy directly from VW manufacturers. 12k CZK/440EUR cost an original DPF

is it possible that your DPF is so clogged so that you can't force regenerate. It is all Russian Roulette - you can try whatever you want but if ECU doesn't like values...you're screwed. You can take it off, get all large particles out. Burn it out with petrol and fire...it may work, it may not. Mesh in DPF is fine and once it is clogged, you have to buy new one. TDi cars are designed for long distances at constant speeds. It takes your engine to warm up at 0 deg C around 20-30km. Until then, your engine spills unburnt fuel into DPF and clogs it. If you check out this forum, there is many idiots who drive short distances and then cry about dead DPF. Turbo cars are not for daily drive ;-)

Looks like your problem is DPF rather than MAF. If exhaust gases cannot pass freely through exhaust system, your turbo can't spin as suppose to.

you need forced regeneration with VCDS cable or service but if your DPF is clogged already...well you have to buy new one. Mine DPF was clogged too because German guy used to drive short distances (people always buy wrong cars). It took me a half year of full load fun in mountains to get DPF burnt with excessive heat. I didn't see any performance loss (usual for clogged DPF) but my DPF tried to regenerate itself constantly...for example 500km/4.5hours.

well best way how to kill turbo is to drive at low revs and in traffic. but you have a new/refurbished turbo so there should be no carbon deposits whatsoever

ECU has got so called smoke limiter map. NO AIR = NO FUEL !!! if your car smokes, you're most likely burn oil. Usual problem is dead turbo, which leaks oil trough air intake manifold. If you disconnect manifold before/after intercooler and lots of oil comes out. Well your turbo is dead.

simple plug and play. try to clean it first though !!! take it off and clean it with warm water and some dish cleaning stuff. Sometimes it is just dirty from years of use.

unless you switch off sensor/egr/whatever in ECU...ECU still knows about it and consider it as fault. Until you clear fault codes in ECU, car is in limp mode or reduce power in better case. unsure about "blocked EGR"...if you mean what people used to do...put a steel/asbestos plate before EGR so that it would be blocked? If yes, it doesn't work this way on new cars with EDC16 ECU such as your car. You have to switch EGR off in ECU. Problem with fault codes is that you should clear them first and then wonder what new codes come up. There may be some old or intermittent codes, which works now. Standard procedure is to save all fault codes, clear them...drive and check out what you get. VCDS Lite from Ross Tech cost about 90€ and you can do diagnostic yourself !!! It is one visit in service and you have your investment back.

My Fabia had twice Bosch and they died within a year or two anyway so if 3rd party works...why not :-D

read the post...most likely faulty MAF ;-) Original turbo cost 14k CZK, which is around 500GBP ;-) Original turbo with sealing set cost 1000GBP (no idea what sort of o-rings, sealing you get) so get some real dealer and not thieves !!!

Bosch is original OEM...price in Czech Republic 80€ I know some guys purchase old ones and refurbish them...maybe for precious metal content Both have warranty...Bosch is dodgy as well. Hard to say. I always buy original, they tend to last longer with less problems. I count everything including my expensive time ;-) few € saved are in few hours gone in my case. I get high quality and don't look back

get someone who can switch off EGR...then you don't need to worry about it anymore

EGR on = less fresh air = lower MAF readings VAG certified idiots are great for replacing whole car but they have no idea what they do. It cost lots of money but car still doesn't work...I rather learnt to repair cars myself ;-) My Fabia had faulty MAF...I wasn't at parents house so they went to my friends garage. He wanted to replace EGR and half of the car. It was simply MAF, which was giving faulty values and EGR went banana. Car without power. EU standard My ex-Fabia had completely dead MAF even at idle. Yours seems to be ok at idle but fails later on. Boost = mass air flow. If ECU reads faulty air mass - ECU calibration maps tell ECU to reduce boost because there is "officially" not enough air in manifold !!! I'm still convinced you have dying MAF.

reduce EGR duty cycle or get someone who can switch it off...it is useless rubbish, which reduces emissions only on paper. In real life you need more fuel to get same job done as without EGR and more power. Have you ever seen burning wood without oxygen? once again, EGR <> MAF are related ;-) EGR problems are usually MAF fault ;-)

I had also BOSCH, first was gone after a year. Second after a half year. Doesn't matter. How do you prove it is broken? it is word game. Sadly, it doesn't give you any codes. It simply has no power. Simply clean it or get new one. You can always return it within a week or so.

Try to wash MAF first in warm water with some dish cleaning rubbish. Sometimes it is just dirty, most of time it is just dead. Replace it with original, they last longer than refurbished or 3rd party MAF sensors.

there you have answer to your problem ;-) exactly as my Fabia...doesn't matter whether MAF on/off - always dead without power dead MAF ;-) I can't find in ELSA what air flow should be there.

MAF sensors are tragedy. Some last long time, some are gone after one year. I already changed three on my Fabia.

N75 suppose to click...take off hose from tandem pump a there must be always vacuum based on revs VCDS has got diagnostic of active modules. Even if N75 clicks, it doesn't mean there is air in ;-) lack of boost...I had something similar on my Fabia a it was dead MAF. ECU maps have certain values in calibration maps and boost has got -400/+200mbar range I believe or vice versa. Then it kicks you into limp mode. For example map says 2500revs @ 70% pedal and 2000mbar but your turbo supplies only 1800mbar...bang ECU switches into limp mode. If you have checked all...it looks like turbo

I forgot about N75 valve, which controls vacuum. If this thing doesn't work, then vanes in turbo doesn't move. Vacuum hoses may be ok but tandem pump where vacuum starts may not work. if you have VCDS or another diagnostic tool. You can run test. Your car has max. boost 2.4bar. At normal cruise speed, the engine needs around 2.0bars of boost.

People would tell you anything you want to hear ;-) I would personally never use refurbished turbo. As designer and CNC machinist...I don't believe in miracles.

there is picture of original made in Germany original is heavy and it doesn't look very fragile ;-) my friend replaced his car with some 3rd party pish and it works somehow. Unless, you have diagnostic you won't notice. Unless, you push your car hard you don't need to worry.