sniper29a

always amusing reading Briskoda. As I was corrected...we're talking about front brakes. Never seen so called sticky pad on front brake because it has got clips. Only stuck piece is piston. If you can't properly replace pads on rear calliper...don't blame me for your incompetence. I've seen stuck calliper but never seen so called sticky pad. So called sticky pad doesn't cause disc overheating...stuck pistons do. What happens if you realise everything is your fault?

what your capacities fail to understand? I try to make it easy for you if we drop to level of mocking other people instead of learn what has been presented. 1. I bought a car...front brake pads rubbish...replaced OEM 2. brakes overheat...troubleshoot...rear brakes suspicious 3. rear pads replaced 4. left rear calliper stuck...refurbish callipers 5. it all works

heavy race-style, most effective, balanced braking on alpine roads. furthermore, stuck rear callipers (I didn't know back then :-) I can't reproduce this result since rear brakes work now. it was just a test - how much can those pads take. Usual temp is around 500deg C

that makes me wonder most. people have no idea how to use brakes effectively, yet their brakes don't work properly under normal braking situations. It makes you think. In this forum is many eExperts pretending to know something. There is endless polemics, yet nothing has been resolved. People repeatedly asking and those some guys repeatedly "help" with useless theories. If someone dares to challenge theories of those eExperts...their usual reaction is "you know all and rest is idiots". How many times I heard it :-D If you speak, you can't hear. If you can't hear or read, you can't learn. I wonder what would happen if those who spent excessive energy on replies to simple facts I present (which are at least based on real life experience) and forcing their "truth", which is based on old wives stories, spread by eExperts. salt crystals? you mean corrosion of alu-alloy, which looks like white salt crystals :-D you know that ancient wisdom "Those who know don't talk and those who talk don't know." ~ Lao Tzu I never cleaned my brakes. My car looks like rally car that finished a stage right now. There is rubbish inside wheel arches, arms, brakes, dust and so on. Yet, my brakes work. My brakes are often overheated, yet they work. It makes you think. Either, I'm blind, old moron, which lives in dreamworld of perfection or there is something wrong with your maintenance procedures and overall knowledge.

I'm always amused by problems of common drivers. If I had your problems, I would buy a new car every three months. I'm driving in mountains roads where is gravel, mud and other rubbish. Furthermore, friction materials are everywhere...yes, there is no dust free pads ;-) If brakes don't dust and eat disc, they don't brake. Yet, I never had problems you describe here. My friend has got problem with disc distortion...as I've already said my brakes are usually around 500deg C. I had heat treated disc many times, yet they never lost run out. What happen if you realise everything is your fault. Poor maintenance, ignorance and eExperts are common cause of 99% issues with cars. If you use cheap rubbish, don't wonder it doesn't work. A car is reflection of its owner - if you don't care...well you know answer.

you mean...few have intelligence to see and rest is blinded by theories and hypocrites? It is Nature for you ;-)

More than in UK where snow rarely is ;-) But you're island so salt is more problematic in your area. I remember my rusted exhaust on Subaru...until changed to stainless steel. My brake system temperatures are usually around 500-700deg C...paint on brake pads are in tact and I've never seen rusted pads. Perhaps, rubbish OEM pads??? Never saw rusted front brake. Rear calliper carrier is only steel part, which needs to be cleaned during pad replacement. Perhaps improper pad installation/assembly? It is true that lifespan of my parts are fractional to common drivers. They have no time to rust, just to do their work

“If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough.” ~ Mario Andretti That's your problem guys, not mine - don't kill the messenger if you have no capacity to understand.

never seen anything like that - perhaps rubbish brake pads? front FN III callipers have clips and iron based material don't tend to rust on alu-alloy callipers ;-) rear FS III callipers have have zinc platted metal guides, when installed correctly it won't stick. further more brake pad has got some sort of sticky pad, which keeps pad on calliper side (at least Ferodo supply this) I don't know older generation callipers though.

diesel turbochargers broke even earlier. low revs, "economic" mode kills VNT turbo in no time. Sticky vanes as result. of course as mentioned above by...city traffic - revs, idle at junction, revs and so on. Turbo suffers from thermal shock in no time.

BMM engine was first with DPF and it has been manufactured since 10/2005 at least in Central Europe. UK don't bother about emission too much.

it was poorly described. Any turbocharged car, which is in short trip city traffic. Nothing kills turbo faster than idle, rev, idle, rev

manufacturers recommend ;-) Services pick the cheapest pish on market as you correctly noticed. There is little or better say no difference between cheap and premium oils. Change them at 8k, max at 10k km and you can use frying oil :-D I believe long-life oil might last 15-30k km if you drive only 1000+ km trips. BUT while engine oil might not degrade, oil filters and air filters are full of rubbish in no time. LONG LIFE is cunning marketing words for idiots who believe in super-trooper, mumbo-jumbo universal things, which last forever and you don't need to do any maintenance at all. UK uses Fuchs I believe. DE, CZ, AT uses Shell. That's why my Octavia, imported from Germany, was slowly dying on long life pish from Shell. Oil lab recommended max 5k on such an oil, 2k if driven on short trips. as was already said PD and PPD systems require extra soft touch. That's why VW spec oils.

Engine code BMM and all were fitted with DPF since 10/2005. At least in central Europe. UK is a cradle of motorsport and you guys don't bother about emissions too much. During my life in UK, I noticed that anything is possible with car - Roll cages, heavy engine upgrades, brakes and so on. Nobody cares but try to drive in Germany or Austria with such a car...if caught by police, be ready to pay 5000€ fine and walking home without car :-D Austria allows 30% of modifications but removing emission reduction systems will cost you dearly. Czech Republic = no modifications. I didn't live in other countries but there is ever increasing number of morons who believe smoking car = high performance cars. It is only matter of time until we'll be forced to use electric cars thanks to tuners.

If you have seemngly everything under control - YOU DON'T DRIVE FAST ENOUGH ;-) HP is pointless figure. I would say anything over 400Nm While, you're right about balancing car. My question is what is point to have 280PS if you can use only 10% of it ;-) Despite, years of karting and practicing the slip angle of tyres feeling and most important sense of balancing car. A wheel with less traction always spin and you can't do anything about it. Dry roads are without question but try to accelerate on the limit from turn and your inner wheel will spin otherwise you don't drive on the limit. I drive on wet roads, snowy alpine roads. LSD is must even in factory tuned 103kW Octavia. I have laser show [read ABS, ESP, ASR lights flashing all the time) on my dashboard all the times with sensitive racing foot on accelerator. Of course, I don't speak about usual tuner's driving style. Spinning wheels for fun, no sense of balance of car and so on. Important is wings, spoilers and big exhaust.

my bad english...i tried to explain that BMM/BKD is same engine block just different head

VCDS has got a function of controlling all active controllers. You don't need to blow out manually. You can test N75. Sticky vanes are simply to test. Warm up your car. then drive on flat road on third gear...let revs drop to 1500 and then flat out. Turbo starts to kick at around 1800 or 2000 if 1.4TDi. Or you can push it very hard with hard turbo use and vanes stick in no time ETKA + VCDS and GOD is DJ

worn arm bushes - it may look good on static geometry testing until you start to turn wheels

what diagnostic says? I had similar problems and they were related to damaged MAF. If there is lack of air flow (due MAF) failure and there is +-400mbar deviations of requested boost - EDC/ECU goes to limp mode If I remember correctly...there suppose to be over 400mg of air at idle revs

VNT turbos are designed to shut off if there is no vacuum. NEVER OVERBOOST ! It is simple mechanisms to keep turbo in shape (source Robert Bosch Diesel MAnagement version V)

higher speed rating = stiffer walls of tire = harder cornering Conti EcoContact = soft = I worn tires in 2500km = racing style driving ContiWinterContact my favourite universal = 8000km with same driving as above by now, my second favourite Yoko C.Drive.

stuck thermostat would overheat engine, right? I used to have problem with oil overheating and problem was clogged water radiator

because VW are bunch of scared idiots. Skoda Motorsport is tech leader for VW but when it comes to RS...tragedy and disgrace of Skoda Motorsport. Especially what happened in WRC. It is lobby. Skoda is the only one who makes money in VAG and VW/AUdi/VW needs to sell their sport cars

I have remapped mine BMM 103kW 2.0TDi (8V, yours is 16V BMM/BKD...same engine, different head) remap fills the void in middle revs. it is more wild but this engine need high revs...it is lazy at low revs...it becomes beast at 2500+rpm especially with remap. My car has got around 190HP...no idea how much exaclty because I did it myself

joints and arm bushes most likely gone. I used to experiment with spacers and idiots in garage fitted them incorrectly. Within few kilometres joints were damaged and symptoms were similar to yours worn arm bushes translate into worn tires from both side - roof like