sniper29a

If it ain't dust and eat disc, it doesn't brake. Brake system converts kinetic energy to heat. How do you expect braking performance without dust? I had ATE Powerdisc with their so called ceramic pads...they dust as every pad but they brake very well but you need racing brake fluid because lots of heat goes to brake fluid. I've white alloy rims and they are always gray or black due Ferodo DS2500 pads but they brake like hell ;-)

air in brake fluid. brake power assistant (unsure about english word) ABS pump gone stuck rear callipers if you have one Bleed the brakes and you'll see.

When I was in army...government decided to switch for Bio Diesel...boy I became a best mechanic of trucks. Fuel tank was like swamp...I think there was a new evolution of life. That was old school truck, which can run without engine oil and almost on anything that combust. I wonder what will happen with modern car with extreme sensitivity for anything. I think you are heading for disaster in long term.

increase radio volume :-D if you think it is bad noise, drive Fabia :-D It is one of extra accessories of Skoda :-D SIMPLY CLEVER

apparently you didn't drive it hard enough ;-) Sometimes placebo works, most of time not. Important is good feeling of customer right? ;-)

plies or drill them out. easy...first year knowledge of boy machinist ;-)

sticky vanes, vacuum hoses rupture, air manifold leak, limp mode?

Cleaners are *******s. I wonder how you get overboost at 3000rpm??? Turbo vanes are designed to remain open in case of failure. If you have overboost, they don't move at all and you kill your engine in no time. It must be like dragster now. I wonder how you clean something by burning it first in engine and then hope it will clean turbo. Take your car for spin...best solution would be mountains where you can reach 100% load at WOT for long periods of time. Then you get around 800deg C in exhaust and maybe you burn all rubbish out of turbo. But it may work for small deposits. Best solution is to take turbo off, use petrol and fire. But it rarely works reliably. Soon or later you're where you are now...most likely due low-revs-saving-fuel driving. What you describe looks like severe build up of deposits in turbo, ready for a new turbo

if your car has got clutch by compressor, that may be an other problem. I had leaks that were not reported by pressure test !!! all gas gone in about 14 days.

I change it with every oil service...8000km...air filter is cheapest solution to clean engine.

Jurid is part of Honeywell/Garett...unsure about Ferodo. VW...I've seen some old video...they used to be. they have been replaced by ATE long time ago. Perhaps that was the reason due their rubbish products... Waste of time by contacting company that doesn't officially exists, doesn't have even webpage. I've replaced by proven quality in motorsport...Brembo

some spline key as guys write. I did it recently but no idea about size - I've got whole set of tools. TRW system suppose to have spline bolts for carrier. Doesn't matter what size...only carrier size is different. While you are at it...take off that useless dust cover, which only overheats brakes :-D

not good idea to mix two different dampers. even worst idea to not use spring/damper matched combination. I never understood people replacing dampers and keeping OEM spring with unknown spring rate

I doubt Skoda uses oil/gas dampers. It is usual, cheap, one valve, oil filled solution Get Bilstein B12 > and never look back

Every sport suspension has got ride high drop - thats the idea behind better handling due lower centre of gravity and changed wheel geometry Weitec made something like sport comfort suspension...not too hard for rubber links. Drop around 20-30mm on Fabia Bilstein B12 has got drop 30-50mm, depending on car. YOU CAN'T HAVE BETTER SUSPENSION WITH SAME OEM RIDE HEIGHT ;-) My friend does off-road trial and he once made adapter for sport suspension for increasing ride heigh...well it was disaster and he claimed...my friend used to work for Skoda Motorsport :-D

I don't deal in arguments or theories. I deal in facts based on my experiments. Sadly, internet is full of eExperts and confused public. You won't find this information because manufacturers need to sell cars, parts ;-) Check out this forum and you find many people whining about TDi and DPF...yet they refuse to accept simple design purpose of those cars. Scared me now. What was you driving at the time? what you mean chief?

yep, so called ceramic pads are bloody expensive and can handle high temperatures. This one is marketing hype from pseudo brake pads manufacturer. Sadly, 350deg C is not performance driving ;-) It is usual temperature of brakes :-D

it depends on your driving style. If you are spirited driver > Brembo Sport + Ferodo DS2500 pads but it needs racing brake fluid because lots of heat goes into calliper and brake fluid (I had just ATE Powerdisc + so called ceramic pads and boiled brake fluid many time...and it was just light 80HP car !!) If you're normal driver > Ferodo Premium pads are very good in my test Basically, any brake pads/disc from people with lots of racing experience. Brembo, Ferodo (guys who created first pad), Pagid/Mintex From my experience...avoid manufacturers who makes all and nothing right. There is result of Honeywell/Garret trying to make brake pads.

I had something similar. I didn't find solution so far. I'm going to change all links for Powerflex and SuperPro ball joint. My theory is that tyre is touching wheel arch PVC...in my case where is brake vents. Possible cause is all rubber joints are gone and wheel has got too much play. My sound happens only to left side (front right wheel) turns during hard cornering. Now, I got metallic clicks...it looks like all is starting to fall apart or during last wheel alignment..some guys forgot to tighten some bolts on axle carrier.

walk, run, bike, bus, train ;-) If you drive with DPF cars short trips...you destroy turbo, DPF, engine oil. If you drive any turbo car short trips, you will kill it. Nothing kills turbo faster than short trips in traffic and eco-friendly drivers who thinks 6th gear at idle revs save money :-D If I'm lazy and drive to work...I had to do weekly EXHAUST BURNING contest in mountains or at least take it for a spin on highways. With short trips I get at least 5% of diesel in engine oil and it needs to be change every 5000km. Unsure about new cars but my car won't tell me if DPF regeneration was successful. Yesterday, I watched diagnostic during drive...DPF regenerated during traffic jams. All appeared ok but few kilometres later I observed how DPF got clogged again...it was like observing rev gauge. It is hard to regenerate DPF on country side roads...it needs steady speed with 30% of load so that engine can retard start of injection and emit max temperature into exhaust. During DPF regen my EGT temp is around 800; if you stop on traffic light you're down to 300. DPF needs at least 650deg C for burning out.

My friend, part dealer "we have a new pads. they suppose to be great. NO DUST, NO NOISE." me "If ain't dust and eat disc, it doesn't brake" my friend "it is Jurid ceramic pads." me "I had ATE Powerdisc with they so called ceramic pads. It's *******s." My friend "it is cheap, try it for me. You're crazy mofo with racing background." me "alright, it is cheap but best cheap pads are from Ferodo." READ FULL REPORT Well, my estimate is based on years of pain, failures, experiments, racing anything with wheels and pushing it to the limits - don't use those pads if you drive in mountains !!! Even on flatlands...I would be scared. Normal braking temperature is around 250 deg C. I've never seen anything like that in my life :-D

Take it for the spin. Find some decent alpine like roads and if in doubt flat out. My DPF was clogged, DPF regenerated itself 4.5hours (my usual 500km trips). I never had DPF light on, perhaps someone has changed something or just stupid electronic. On Maxidot, I have seen DPF 0% but EGT was 800deg C, still dumping excessive fuel for regen cycle. It took me about a half year of race style driving in mountains with usual EGT 500-850deg C. According to Bob Bosch, DPF needs 650deg C for burning out deposits. Now, all ok. Regen cycle starts at about 50%. EGT 800deg C and 5 minutes later. DPF clean as whistle. I drive short trips to work if I'm lazy and that's the best solution how to kill turbo and DPF. But I often take my car for some spirited, full load/WOT fun in mountains. As my friend once said "Don't worry, with your driving style. Your car/engine/dpf have no time to build up any deposits." Of course it comes with Hajes Racing service procedures, otherwise you destroy your car in no time.

What you write looks like bad turbo to me. damaged bearing and turbine/compressor or wrong turbo and turbo is surging/stalling. My friend from Garett told me that occasional whining noise of turbo is normal but it is start of turbo damage. In my case, I damaged turbo during my ECU calibration learning curve. Too much boost kills :-D usually sticky vanes or vaccum pipes or N75 gone...run diagnostic. it is usual for stock tuned Octavia. Mine used to be dead till 2200-2500 until I remapped ECU. But it is related to boost and fuelling. Did they play with ECU or just replaced turbo? That's how VW keeps emission down by poor fuelling in low revs. I had to rev my car in mountains like hell. I still have to but midrange power increased dramatically. Standard VW test for boost is as following: 1. warm up engine...oil must be at least 80deg C 2. drive on flat road on 3rd gear 3. let engine revs drop to around 1500rpm 4. flat out, WOT...engine must start to kick rapidly at around 1850rpm NEVER USE REFURBISHED TURBOS !!! First, you never know what sort of damage has been caused to turbo. Due to bad oil interval service (5000km if driven short trips and 8000km if driven long distances), oil damages turbo bearing resulting in whining noise and excessive oil leaking later on. Unfortunately, most people drive turbo to the dead - critical material fatigue/failure, turbine/compressor touches housing in better cases or explodes and damages everything...including your engine. Turbo "specialist" grind and polish housing, thus completely changing flow characteristics of housing. Furthermore, I doubt they are able to balance turbine/compressor properly after replacement of shaft, bronze bearing etc...OEM VW turbos are cheap crap made from one part most likely. Unlike pro turbos where you can play with different sizes of turbine/compressor in simple assembly manner. For example Fabia 1.4TDi turbo costs 16k CZK new and 10-12CKZ refurbish. What sane person buys dodgy refurbish gear? Do you like to have your engine destroyed or what?

They just switched off EGR and engine finally combust effectively ;-) That is whole trick of "remap". You can do it yourself with VCDS and EGR Duty Cycle modification. EGR maps goes up to 60% of pedal I believe. Above that, it is just pure fuel. ENERGY (FUEL) = POWER. You can't have power with lower fuel consumption ;-)