I am having battery issues with my 2018 model Kodiaq 2.0 TSi (petrol).  It was replaced with an identical Varta EFB battery from Tayna less than 11 months ago and teh BMS Adaptation process run then.

 

Battery is going from fully charged overnight down to about 12.2 v after charging at 14.4 v when driving.  When I open the car in the morning it drops to 11.8 or 11.9 v - but still starts the car (in a warm garage).

Local Skoda Dealer had no Auto-electrics time available for a month, so suggested I call Skoda Assistance and they sent out an AA patrolman (!) who recommended taking the car into the dealer under an emergency procedure.

Car was in dock for 8 days before I got it back on Thursday with the battery control module replaced.  They reckon they had tested everything including the battery and all was fine.  It wasn't, the battery is still running down overnight.
My Autophix 7610 scanner reckons there is still a fault. U140600 Static Current too high (see photo).  But I am not sure, having tested the current when the car is asleep at 155mA, whether that is too high or if my recharging the battery on my charger could be causing that?

Does anyone know what the quiescent current should be with the car locked, allowed to go to sleep, and then measured?  (I have a multimeter in series with the battery left connected till it goes to sleep).

Hot off-the-Press Update:  When I unplug the Dashcam current drops to less than 10mA so I think that may be the culprit!

Happy to receive any suggestions

 

Andrew

Yes, 10-30mA territory is probably more what you should see.

Dashcams plugged into outlets that stay on permanently are notorious for this problem. 

@Breezy_Pete
>Dashcams plugged into outlets that stay on permanently are notorious for this problem. 

I have just learned something, then. 
Believe it or not my Smart Meter contributed to the issue.  The meter flashes LEDs every few seconds and I think probably kept triggering the dashcam.

Tomorrow I will try to find a fuse  that is only on with the ignition, and maybe fit a two-way switch to keep it on if parked in a bad area?

 

Thanks for the input.

 

Andrew

11 hours ago, andrewclark55 said:

@Breezy_Pete

Tomorrow I will try to find a fuse  that is only on with the ignition, and maybe fit a two-way switch to keep it on if parked in a bad area?

 

 

 

Let me also know, what fuse did you find.

I had similar problems, changed the battery, got coded with Exide dongle (later did it myself with VCDS) and charging problems started. Sometimes it did charge only at 12V. Also battery was pretty drained by the mornings.

 

Disconnected dashcam, was a bit better.

 

Went to dealers, the recoded the battery and since then everything is ok. The coding was almost the same as I did with VCDS, but somehow their coding worked and mine did not.

Edit:

 

I am using Nextbase 522 dashcam and the technical data states, that it consumes about 70 - 80 mA in standby mode.

I had the same issue, left my car for a few days last winter, and battery completely drained, as in i was unable to unlock my car with the fob, there was no power and had to start my car with a battery charger. Took me ages to clear all the warning lights after that.

That's how i found out the USB sockets / phone charger is permanently on.

 

So i switched my dashcam's hard wire kit to another non essential fuse such as front seat heating (fuse 26) after i verified there's no power when the car is turned off.

That worked a treat. My camera turned on and off with the starter button, and I had no more power issues.