Tuftythesquirrel

What's the noise like wth the Darkside SMF? I thought it was around 10kg, so possibly quieter than a lightweight one?

Hello, This is getting very interesting. What would make it absolutely epic if XMan could keep a cauldron of boiling oil in his garage, but that's hoping for a bit too much I think. My (almost) final proposal is shown in the pictures. I have mocked up a very short connection (40mm) between the turbo return and the block connector and shown the original. Mainly because of the feedback, saying a shorter connection was required. I've also back tracked on all the other oil return setups on the forum, that people said they weren't happy, but I can't remember if they were the GTB2260 or the GBT1756 installation. Sorry if I haven't acknowledged any copyright! It seems as if the turbo comes out further from the block than I remembered. That's not a problem since I have a 80mm extension that I can fit to move the block fitting out further. Does any think this will work? Thanks.

Cheers for that guys. I was trying to learn by other peoples issues. By my reckoning the elbow needs to point upwards at a distance of about 80mm out from the side of the engine block. Hopefully, it should then point almost directly at the turbo oil return flange. With both items mounted I should be able to measure the length between the barb connectors and cut the oil pipe to length.

Thanks for the input. Next week I'm going back and trawling through the 3 bays of fittings he has and looking for a "compact elbow" I think its called. It will have a 90 degree bend, which mimics the way most people, including XMan, have done it. To keep the length to a minimum, if I crop the barb section down to 20mm (the width of a 20mm Mikalore clamp), this will probably give me another 40mm. I will then be able to fit a straight section of the teflon/stainless pipe. See picture.

Hi All, Just another thought... I had this made up at a hydraulic engineers on Friday. I wanted a bit of feedback on whether anyone thinks it will fit. There is a 18mm to 1/2" BSP fitting that will thread into the block. The 1/2" hydraulic pipe is stainless steel braid and PTFE lined so it should be more than up to the oil/temperature environment. This is a snug fit over the barb on the turbo. The only thing I'm not sure about is does anyone think it is too big i.e. where the pipe fitting comes out of the block and goes upward towards the turbo. The hydraulic engineer said he could reduce the length of the swage/crimp. So if it reduced from 35mm to 20mm this would give me another 15mm more to play with. If anyone has the undertray off this week and has a GTB2260 fitted, would it be possible to get some dimensions i.e. from the threaded inlet to the block, up to the oil return flange on the turbo. It would be appreciated. There isn't any point in me doing any measuring, since I've still got the standard turbo fitted. Cheers, me dears.

Xman - Your point about the low stress is very true, similarly the time spent draining the oil is also a good one. However, I believe your comment regarding that you haven't had a single problem, otherwise I guess you wouldn't ship them if they were coming back in droves. Thanks for the offer of the pipe in a bucket test, it would be interesting to see what happens. However, I now have significantly more confidence that I won't end up with a sump full of melted silicone. That gives me a nice cosy feeling So I think I have found the a near perfect solution!

I have no doubt that the Fluro lined hoses are ok for a period, but isn't the issue what will they be like in a couple of years from now it? Most suppliers say something along the lines of.. "FLURO lined hoses are ideal for contact with Oils / Oil mists and fuel Filler hoses" But Demon Tweeks angle on this is .... Samco Fuel And Oil hose is specially manufactured with a fluorosilicone liner which allows the hose to resist short term contact with oil and petrol fluids, and permanent contact from their vapours, making them ideal for oil or fuel filler neck assemblies or oil breather plumbing. Note: This hose type is not suitable for permanent fuel or oil transfer (fuel or oil lines), or immersion in fuel or oil. So having just purchased the XMan GTB2260 kit and even though I have bought the oil return pipe, I think I'm going to see if I can get some stainless steel braided teflon line hose to fit. The spec. also them to be more tolerant to heat i.e. 270 vs 150 Deg. C

Hi Guys, Just a very quick update.... VCDS Air Intake Temperature logging. The picture below shows the difference the FMIC has made. Airtec once showed a video where the air intake temperature didn't go much above 25C and I was a bit sceptical. But I don't think they weren't far out. Not a perfect comparison admittedly, the OEM-SMIC log was taken on a sunny June day, temperature probably 20C and the Airtec-FMIC made on a crisp day in January, temperature around 7C. So, the FMIC intake air temperature looks to be around 17C when travelling at 60-70MPH and never above 27C even with a sustained wide open throttle, for about 16 seconds. Looking at the old FMIC 65-70C was about average on full throttle, peaking at 95C at times. Driving differences are subtle. In town say trundling over speed humps in 3rd, the response between 1000-2000RPM seems noticeably improved. Whilst flat out acceleration, on a private road of course officer, also seems better but with slightly more induction roar. All subjective impressions of course. So roll on good weather and I will do another plot.

Finished!... for now. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402658-fmic-hardpipe-kit-from-ebay/

Brush - obviously! Tried using a roller the last time but mostly you end up doing the windows as well – which is not ideal :wall:

I’m not sure they would be interested to be frank. I spoke to an Airtec distributor and they said they supplied the (Seat) brackets but Airtec won’t. I got a price on the intercooler from Airtec directly to get a better discount and asked them if I could have a set of brackets and they said no problem. When I ordered the bits from them they then said oops…. looks like we don’t actually do the brackets – so I had to order them from VW/Seat dealer. They also said something along the lines of we only make intercoolers etc. not resell other manufacturers kit, so I took it that they weren’t interested in this sort of business. I’ve got my old mock ups if anyone out there wants them. They are still a few mm out though, so it will still be a case of trial and error or “empirical methods” as I like to call it.

No, didn't need to change the existing wiring, I did get a spare connector off ebay just in case.

Ah ha, I've already thought of that - I'm painting the whole car matt black this weekend :D

Part (7) Pictures of intercooler fitted with Seat crash bar. I just had to remove a 40mm section of the upper edge. Part (8) Pictures with bumper back on. The only thing I didn't photograph is the cutting of the inside of the front bumper. As you would expect. the offside bumper mount needed the most taken away. I just kept on trying to fit the bumper and removing a little each time. I used a dremel diamond cutting disc but actually used a normal drill for a bit more welly. The offside fog light also interfered to the extent that I had to slice off some of the rear of the fog light bowl, then seal it back up with self amalgamating tape, to keep it water tight. So in summary, the FMIC Hardpipe Kit is pretty good value, being half the price of the others. The pipework seems better finished than the DS kit. I've got some logs of the Air Intake Temperature taken in June 2016. I will take another set and post them, as soon as we get a warmish day so it is a valid comparison. I have more pics if anyone needs them, just PM me. Cheers.

Part (3) I had to remove a small amount of material from the bumper brackets on the vehicle. Part (4) Now the intercooler brackets were secured, ready to mount the intercooler. Part (5) The Airtec intercooler itself is a great bit of kit, but the paintwork was a bit err.... cr*p. It flacked and chipped really badly. I sanded it back and used a self etching primer, gloss black paint and lacquer. Now possibly the shiniest intercooler in the UK. Part (6) With the intercooler mounted and the hard pipes in place, the bottom pipe aligned perfectly. The top pipe could have done with a bit more of a bend as joined the radiator, however the silicone joiner took up the angle.