Tuftythesquirrel

What's the noise like wth the Darkside SMF? I thought it was around 10kg, so possibly quieter than a lightweight one?

Hello, This is getting very interesting. What would make it absolutely epic if XMan could keep a cauldron of boiling oil in his garage, but that's hoping for a bit too much I think. My (almost) final proposal is shown in the pictures. I have mocked up a very short connection (40mm) between the turbo return and the block connector and shown the original. Mainly because of the feedback, saying a shorter connection was required. I've also back tracked on all the other oil return setups on the forum, that people said they weren't happy, but I can't remember if they were the GTB2260 or the GBT1756 installation. Sorry if I haven't acknowledged any copyright! It seems as if the turbo comes out further from the block than I remembered. That's not a problem since I have a 80mm extension that I can fit to move the block fitting out further. Does any think this will work? Thanks.

Cheers for that guys. I was trying to learn by other peoples issues. By my reckoning the elbow needs to point upwards at a distance of about 80mm out from the side of the engine block. Hopefully, it should then point almost directly at the turbo oil return flange. With both items mounted I should be able to measure the length between the barb connectors and cut the oil pipe to length.

Thanks for the input. Next week I'm going back and trawling through the 3 bays of fittings he has and looking for a "compact elbow" I think its called. It will have a 90 degree bend, which mimics the way most people, including XMan, have done it. To keep the length to a minimum, if I crop the barb section down to 20mm (the width of a 20mm Mikalore clamp), this will probably give me another 40mm. I will then be able to fit a straight section of the teflon/stainless pipe. See picture.

Hi All, Just another thought... I had this made up at a hydraulic engineers on Friday. I wanted a bit of feedback on whether anyone thinks it will fit. There is a 18mm to 1/2" BSP fitting that will thread into the block. The 1/2" hydraulic pipe is stainless steel braid and PTFE lined so it should be more than up to the oil/temperature environment. This is a snug fit over the barb on the turbo. The only thing I'm not sure about is does anyone think it is too big i.e. where the pipe fitting comes out of the block and goes upward towards the turbo. The hydraulic engineer said he could reduce the length of the swage/crimp. So if it reduced from 35mm to 20mm this would give me another 15mm more to play with. If anyone has the undertray off this week and has a GTB2260 fitted, would it be possible to get some dimensions i.e. from the threaded inlet to the block, up to the oil return flange on the turbo. It would be appreciated. There isn't any point in me doing any measuring, since I've still got the standard turbo fitted. Cheers, me dears.

Xman - Your point about the low stress is very true, similarly the time spent draining the oil is also a good one. However, I believe your comment regarding that you haven't had a single problem, otherwise I guess you wouldn't ship them if they were coming back in droves. Thanks for the offer of the pipe in a bucket test, it would be interesting to see what happens. However, I now have significantly more confidence that I won't end up with a sump full of melted silicone. That gives me a nice cosy feeling So I think I have found the a near perfect solution!

I have no doubt that the Fluro lined hoses are ok for a period, but isn't the issue what will they be like in a couple of years from now it? Most suppliers say something along the lines of.. "FLURO lined hoses are ideal for contact with Oils / Oil mists and fuel Filler hoses" But Demon Tweeks angle on this is .... Samco Fuel And Oil hose is specially manufactured with a fluorosilicone liner which allows the hose to resist short term contact with oil and petrol fluids, and permanent contact from their vapours, making them ideal for oil or fuel filler neck assemblies or oil breather plumbing. Note: This hose type is not suitable for permanent fuel or oil transfer (fuel or oil lines), or immersion in fuel or oil. So having just purchased the XMan GTB2260 kit and even though I have bought the oil return pipe, I think I'm going to see if I can get some stainless steel braided teflon line hose to fit. The spec. also them to be more tolerant to heat i.e. 270 vs 150 Deg. C

Hi Guys, Just a very quick update.... VCDS Air Intake Temperature logging. The picture below shows the difference the FMIC has made. Airtec once showed a video where the air intake temperature didn't go much above 25C and I was a bit sceptical. But I don't think they weren't far out. Not a perfect comparison admittedly, the OEM-SMIC log was taken on a sunny June day, temperature probably 20C and the Airtec-FMIC made on a crisp day in January, temperature around 7C. So, the FMIC intake air temperature looks to be around 17C when travelling at 60-70MPH and never above 27C even with a sustained wide open throttle, for about 16 seconds. Looking at the old FMIC 65-70C was about average on full throttle, peaking at 95C at times. Driving differences are subtle. In town say trundling over speed humps in 3rd, the response between 1000-2000RPM seems noticeably improved. Whilst flat out acceleration, on a private road of course officer, also seems better but with slightly more induction roar. All subjective impressions of course. So roll on good weather and I will do another plot.

Finished!... for now. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402658-fmic-hardpipe-kit-from-ebay/

Brush - obviously! Tried using a roller the last time but mostly you end up doing the windows as well – which is not ideal :wall:

I’m not sure they would be interested to be frank. I spoke to an Airtec distributor and they said they supplied the (Seat) brackets but Airtec won’t. I got a price on the intercooler from Airtec directly to get a better discount and asked them if I could have a set of brackets and they said no problem. When I ordered the bits from them they then said oops…. looks like we don’t actually do the brackets – so I had to order them from VW/Seat dealer. They also said something along the lines of we only make intercoolers etc. not resell other manufacturers kit, so I took it that they weren’t interested in this sort of business. I’ve got my old mock ups if anyone out there wants them. They are still a few mm out though, so it will still be a case of trial and error or “empirical methods” as I like to call it.

No, didn't need to change the existing wiring, I did get a spare connector off ebay just in case.

Ah ha, I've already thought of that - I'm painting the whole car matt black this weekend :D

Part (7) Pictures of intercooler fitted with Seat crash bar. I just had to remove a 40mm section of the upper edge. Part (8) Pictures with bumper back on. The only thing I didn't photograph is the cutting of the inside of the front bumper. As you would expect. the offside bumper mount needed the most taken away. I just kept on trying to fit the bumper and removing a little each time. I used a dremel diamond cutting disc but actually used a normal drill for a bit more welly. The offside fog light also interfered to the extent that I had to slice off some of the rear of the fog light bowl, then seal it back up with self amalgamating tape, to keep it water tight. So in summary, the FMIC Hardpipe Kit is pretty good value, being half the price of the others. The pipework seems better finished than the DS kit. I've got some logs of the Air Intake Temperature taken in June 2016. I will take another set and post them, as soon as we get a warmish day so it is a valid comparison. I have more pics if anyone needs them, just PM me. Cheers.

Part (3) I had to remove a small amount of material from the bumper brackets on the vehicle. Part (4) Now the intercooler brackets were secured, ready to mount the intercooler. Part (5) The Airtec intercooler itself is a great bit of kit, but the paintwork was a bit err.... cr*p. It flacked and chipped really badly. I sanded it back and used a self etching primer, gloss black paint and lacquer. Now possibly the shiniest intercooler in the UK. Part (6) With the intercooler mounted and the hard pipes in place, the bottom pipe aligned perfectly. The top pipe could have done with a bit more of a bend as joined the radiator, however the silicone joiner took up the angle.

Hello, Sorry for the enormous delay. It just took me a few attempts to get it right. Since I work away in the week the weekend are a bit precious and I didn't want to spend them all underneath the car. I looked at all the threads on this and ultimately I didn't have the courage to take the angle grinder to my dear Furbie, lest the previous very careful owner came looking for me. I wanted to use the Airtec FMIC but not cut huge lumps out of the radiator surround and also keep the front bumper mounting brackets intact. Also to keep it straight relative to the bumper, so when you open the bonnet it looks more factory-ish! Looks like I'll have to upload the pictures in sections due to the forum 2MB limit. Part (1) Firstly you need to be able to bolt on the standard Seat brackets. There are 2 Torx screws either side that are used for the existing radiator mounts, but these are behind the radiator surround. On each side, I ended up finding where the top one was, using small USB camera and light, then drilling a small test pilot hole, to see how close I was. Then open up the hole with a drill and then a router bit, gradually so it is central to the screw behind. Then use the intercooler bracket as a template to find out where the one below is. The do the same for the lower hole and voila, you can mount the standard brackets. Well sort of, because they foul on the radiator surround. Part (2) This done, the problem for me at least was that the top intercooler pipe is in line with the top offside bumper bracket. It is also too close to the radiator surround to get the pipe to fit, without taking big chunks out of it. That's why everyone seems to cut it off. I needed to lower the intercooler and take it forward. The issue is, if you go too low, the top intercooler pipe fouls on the chassis leg. If you go to far forward it fouls on the bumper. For the offside, the drop was about 25mm. I also moved it forward by about 10mm, to get away from the radiator surround. On the nearside the drop was the same but I moved it forward by about 40mm so the intercooler ended up parallel to the front bumper. I cut the standard brackets and re-welded them (red arrows show the extra metal, orange line, how the brackets used to be). I also extended the N/S bracket forward by about 40mm. This process took a few attempts. Since the first set of brackets had been cut and welded a few times, I bought another set and did it right next time.

Hi, This was the delivery note: Item Name: AP 25mm Lowering Springs & Shocks Suspension Kit Item Part Number: SP82-018 I've never grounded it on the road, only ever scraped the front splitter/spoiler once, but that was leaving a house coming onto a heavily cambered side street. Oh, fitting - I gave the local mechanic a hand do it. On the front, don't take the bottom arm off, just disconnect it from the strut and gently lever it out of the way with a long bar. If you have a car lift (or can rent one), it took us just under 2 hours. That included a cup of tea and a chat. That is, only pay 2 hours labour for fitting. Indy garages in our are £40-50/hour. Cheers.

Well thanks for the feedback guys, so the general consensus is.... coskev - No, alex_e3 - No, JRJG - No. That'll be a no then. I think I'see if I can use the turbo and block AN-10 fittings, but use the push-on or barbed type connector as it seems shorter. I just wanted to make it look a bit more attractive - sad aren't I? Got some bits on order and will try a mock up. Cheers, guys.

Seconded... Nice piece of kit - been on my vRS for 25k (supplied by Damian @ DPM Performance) Firm but not OTT. Probably more comfortable than my my Mk1 TT quattrosport was. They seem to have gone up a fair bit, they were £230 ish 2 years ago, now £291 (+26% !)

Try [email protected] - just email them, they are really helpful. These ones below (there are 2) are on the 90 degree bend going into the bottom of the standard SMIC. These must have been on their way out for months. I was getting intermittent high levels of smoke and more smoke than usual when accelerating hard. They eventually went, you could hear the turbo air blowing out. I must have been left with about 20 bhp. at least I could get home though. When it happened on my previous TT, I couldn't even move it. When I took the 90 degree bend out, the O ring had been forced all the way down the pipe and was pushing against the clip that holds the pipe in. Take all of them out and make sure they are fitting snugly in the slot in the pipe. After I replaced them, it made a massive difference. Discount Price Inter cooler Seal 3C0145117D - £6.90 Each Postage - £4.50

Hi Guys, Cheers for the input, it is much appreciated. Regarding the feedback... Turbo Air Intake Pipe: So this is my standard BLT TIP (LEFT) compared to Alex_e3 TIP (RIGHT) after the GTB2260 is fitted. I think I will just make an extender bracket. It seems as if it is slightly lower with the bigger turbo fitted. Oil Return Pipe: I'm going to replace this...... Alex_e3's modified one. With these.... 1. 1 off - AN-10 Drain for Garrett Turbo GT T20 T25 T28 T30 T35 Billet Oil Return Flange (38mm) 2. 2 off - AN-10 45 Degree Swivel Fast Flow Hose End Fitting Adaptor 3. 1 off - AN-10 JIC Flare to M14x1.5 Metric Straight Male Hose Fitting Adapter (13mm hose) 4. 1 Mtr - AN-10 Stainless Steel Braided PTFE Teflon Hose (1500 PSI / -73°C to + 260°C), I.D.=13mm / O.D.=15.2mm £25 for the bits, plus the hose. More than the X-Man version but cheaper than Darkside. Hopefully, I should be able to mimic the 90 degree angle made up by alex_e3. The only thing I was concerned about was the thickness of the hose. The wall is 1.1mm thick and 15.2 OD. Any comments regarding this proposal? Thanks again for the help.

Hi Everybody, What I would appreciate is to know, preferably from someone who has done it recently, is why this is NOT considered a bolt on upgrade. That is ignoring all items apart from the turbo itself. I want to have all the bits available and fit in a day, without having to order extra kit when it is in bits. My car has had 1 previous owner and I got it at 15k miles, 2 years ago. I've already fitted an Airtec FMIC with a hardpipe kit and I know I'll need a new clutch fairly soon as its rattling but not yet slipping. I have spoken to Kris at http://www.dieselpowered.co.uk/ and he is prepared to supply a remote mapping service, since I live 5 hours away from him. He has been really helpful. I want to fit the X-Man supplied GTB2260 conversion kit. This comprises... GTB2260VK welded onto cast manifold 2.75" downpipe reduced to stock size at the end Oil feed Oil return DIY extension kit 4bar map Intake pipe coupler Set of gaskets and nuts So the items to fit/connect are: Manifold: standard kit Exhaust Downpipe: connects to standard system Turbo Air Intake Pipe: coupler supplied (not sure about clips) Turbo Air Outlet Pipe: I guess I need a different type of silicone pipe reducer, the existing bayonet fitting (51mm to 57mm). The GTB2260 outlet looks bigger with no bayonet fitting. Oil Feed Pipe: supplied with kit Oil Return Pipe: supplied with kit Turbo Bottom Bracket: I've got a MIG welder so I should be able to make one. 4Bar MAP Sensor: supplied with kit (I bought another connector as the wiring on the original looks a bit tight) Vacuum Actuator: X-Man says this should be pretty close. If I have to adjust, how do I get at it? I have seen a few issues from other people... Alex_e3.... in his project thread mentioned the one of the oil pipes supplied needed modification. Other people have mentioned about the fitting of the tubular manifold - but in my case this is stock, so I don't think I should have a problem. As for the oil return... the 1756 isn't so bad, but the 2260 is very tight indeed. First off split the standard braided section from the original oil feed return in a vice, then I had to cut down the remaining parts so that I could angle the linking rubber pipe correctly. There's no way it would've fitted without chopping some of it off.... Coskev... That pipe supplied by xman imo is too thick, just search ebay for oil hose for something more suitable .... hutchysrs50 - Yeah that looks bad. I've done two GTBs and bought darksides oil return kit now. Pricey but it's the right part for the job and avoids things like this.... Any comments appreciated.

I agree you should check all the intercooler hoses and bayonet seals. Mine went down 10mpg and occasionally smoked, even on a light throttle. Don't assume because the bayonet fitting is tight it is sealing OK. I've seen the O rings get pushed out of their slot and slide down the outside of the bayonet, jamming on the securing lugs.

Yes, not sure why Faboka stopped. When he spoke it was always worth listening! When mapping using a remote supplier, what is the preferred flashing software MPPS?

Got a full parts list on this thread, I'll update it when necessary. Making some brackets at the moment http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402658-fmic-hardpipe-kit-from-ebay/?fromsearch=1