Chris GB

I had two Citigos bought from new and ran to around 100,000 miles each. Both had this issue from nearly new in damp weather.

It's a plastic part. It is replaceable, or you can fit a sleeve around it.

Both of mine were "clanky" from new and both ran into six figure miles as driving school cars.

If you are doing mostly shorter journeys from cold, or lots of slow stop / start traffic, it's good. If you are doing longer journeys it's possibly low depending on driving style.

Also, I don't think the disc supplier will make much difference. I had original equipment on both cars (both went wobbly) Femax and Apec, which would also go wobbly if not treated with the same care. I've run Apec discs in very tough situations and they seem very durable. EBC should be very good too.

The hubs should be ok to reuse, I never replaced mine, be sure the mating faces are spotlessly clean when replacing the discs (as they always should be). I doubt you'll find a mechanic who sees the logic in gently and progressively torquing up the wheel bolts in increments though! Maximum eyelash fluttering might do it

I believe you are correct in identifying the hubs as the issue. I had the same problems on both 2014 and 2016 cars. I put a lot of miles on the cars, getting on for 100000 miles each. What I found was that all was well up to the first time the wheels were removed / replaced. I suspected hubs (they look pretty flimsy) and so when I replaced the discs and pads, I was very careful to torque them up progressively. They stayed good again for ages. I had a new pair of front tyres and again, really careful torque up process, again no problems. The next time the wheels were off, I didn't get the chance to torque up and within 2000 miles, the wobbles had started again. Basically, I found that as long as the fronts were always very carefully progressively torqued up, the discs stayed good.

Easy way to narrow it down is to gently apply the handbrake and see if that causes the noise. I definitely had these symptoms with both my Citigos of left out in windy rainy weather and I cleared it by running with the handbrake gently on for a short time (10 seconds at a time perhaps) periodically. If it's got really bad, new drums may be needed.

Pull the drums off and have a look at the inner surface. Citigo is prone to the rear brakes sticking on if they've got moisture ingress. Could be done shoe material stuck to the drum.

If you have one bulb that does dipped and main beam, you need H4. If you have separate bulbs for dipped and main, it's not H4.

Once a lead acid battery has been completely discharged, or held at a low state of charge over a relatively long period, it can suffer damage. You may be lucky and find that after charging, the battery is ok, but very often, the damage done by the deep discharge will cause the battery to fail. Personally, I take the batteries out of the cars and give them a day on the smart charger not less often than once a fortnight.

I had this with the EP150 on my last Suzuki Swift. I actually lost a tread block on one of the rears. I pinged another couple off with my fingers when the tyres went in for replacements. The tyres where well in date and on a car used for lots pf miles 6 days a week. Dunlop Sportmaxx RT on the Jag are showing signs of a single line of cracking around the join between sidewall and tread shoulder. They'll be going shortly too.

I'd be interested to know how you rate the Goodyear and Dunlop tyres now you've had a while driving on the Dunlops?