chimaera

Looking at that set of readings injector 1 is the best of the 4, and 2 is the worst by quite a margin. FWIW Skoda consider anything up to +/- 2.8 within spec so those figures are not that bad (my car has worse numbers than yours but the Skoda dealer here had a good look and decided it was still well within spec). If your car is worse after the adaptation performed by that guy then you need to go back and get him to undo what ever adjustment he made, since it has clearly not solved the problem. It might also be reasonable to demand a refund given that they not only failed to fix anything but in fact made it worse. Views are mixed around here on the emissions update. If it's carried out Skoda offer a 2 year warranty (officially called the Trust Building Measure but a warranty in all but name) on certain engine components, injectors included. TBH at this point I'd be looking for a good diesel injection specialist with the tools and knowledge to figure out what (if any) problem your car might have.

Pics of the bracket mod:

A postscript to this. I got the PowerFlex ones a few weeks ago and finally took a look at the job last Sunday. I was hoping that I could do the job without dropping the front subframe - it looked like there was enough room in there to wiggle it out so I could drill out the brackets. There wasn't! Five hours of poking at stuff and swearing at it to no avail. So during the week I ordered up the bolts I'd need to replace when I dropped the subframe. I got around to doing the job today and it went largely as expected. At the start, I'd hoped I wouldn't need to completely drop the subframe, thinking it would be a pain in the behind to fully drop it. Suffice it to say the subframe did have to come all the way down but once it did it was quite straightforward to get the ARB out and sort it out. The OE bushes are held in place by a two piece clamp with a flange on the nut binding the two together. That had to be drilled out to separate the clamp and get the old bushes out. I had expected the OE bushes to be a single piece moulded onto the ARB as this is the only sane reason to set it up the way they did. It turned out that it was a bog standard two piece bushing, which makes the design decision to require replacement of the entire ARB (and dropping the subframe to do so) utterly daft. I found a 10 mm drill bit too small for those flanges but a 13 mm bit was fine. Leave as much metal on the nuts as possible after drilling them out: this can be hammered down to retain the nuts on the bracket (I'll have pics when I can get them off the phone in a bit). From there it was plain sailing: swap the bushes, bolt the ARB onto the subframe (a bit easier when it's still dropped down), jack the subframe back into place and bolt it in, torque everything down properly. One benefit of replacing the bushings this way is that I shouldn't need to drop the subframe next time since the brackets & bushes can be popped off the ARB easily now.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll take a look after I've done the front ARB bushes on the Superb - not looking forward to having to drop the front subframe to get at them.

I got my Themistos done recently by a local guy here for €70 a wheel. Smartened them up no end!

If they're anything like other VAG models they're usually very firmly glued in place and also have little peg thingies going through the door skin just in case.

A while back the aircon in our Fabia stopped blowing out cold air, and it's obvious from the engine note that the compressor is not kicking in when cold air is requested. A scan with VCDS threw up the code "00229 - Refrigerant Pressure 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded". I figure it's one of two problems: bad pressure sensor or leak in the refrigerant loop. My question then is whether there are any common issues that lead to this problem that I should be looking for? As someone with little to no experience playing with aircon systems, I'm tempted to just hand this over to a mechanic but I'd like to have some sense of what the problem might be first, or whether it's straightforward DIY job.

If you're out of warranty just get them powder coated. Cheaper than a new set of wheels. If

Tuning boxes are always a bad idea. They feed false sensor information to the ECU to fool it into overfuelling and overboosting. Get a remap from a reputable tuner if you want more power.

How much of the front crash structure are you comfortable with cutting away?

The remote control works via the BCM and the master door control module in the driver's door. Most of functionality is controlled via CANBUS rather than direct wiring so to achieve what you want to do I think you'll need a GSM module that can talk to the BCM via CANBUS. Otherwise you'll have to splice across either the door switches or the window motors, and I'm inclined to think that either of those options will play hell with the BCM.

Probably a bad switch. For a cheap fix you could remove it and clean the contacts inside (requires removing the steering wheel).

What engine code? Not every fuse position is populated on every car built. The fuse diagram in the manual must cover all possible vehicle configurations in production and will list fuses that are not actually used on your car. Time to walk back from that idea and start again with your fault finding.

That's not much to go on in fairness. What is wrong with the car and why do you think this specific fuse position is connected to the problem?

Why do you think there should be a fuse there?

The wires can crack/break inside the insulation so a visual check is not enough. You'll need to probe them one by one with a continuity tester to check it properly.

Spacers are rarely a good idea. If you think there's an alignment problem buy wheels that are the right size. Any fitment of spacers will also mean needing to get new longer wheel bolts so that you maintain the integrity of the bolted joint between wheel and hub. Why do you even think you need them anyway? The image you posted from willtheyfit shows that the new wheel sits inside the footprint of the existing wheel and tyre, though yes you've moved the centre of the contact patch inwards. You misunderstand what offset actually does. The reason for having an offset is so that the centre of the tyre's contact patch is in a particular location relative to the steering and suspension pickup points on the car. The reason ET will be different on different width/diameter wheels on a given car is to maintain the position of the tyre's contact patch when the change in pan width and/or diameter would otherwise put the contact patch somewhere the designer doesn't want it to be. Equally, someone who knows what they're doing with suspension might choose to change the offset to get a certain change in steering/handling. You can't make a blanket statement that a particular offset can't be used on a given car since there are two many variables involved. ET35 might actually work on certain wheels/tyres.

It can be a bit rough pulling away from standstill if you're too aggressive with the loud pedal. I find if you give it a fraction of a second from letting go of the brake before hitting the accelerator it's fine. If you're chasing down a wet clutch DSG make sure it's had its fluid & filter changes done on time - the clutches don't like worn out oil.

So it seems. It's a bad day when you don't learn something new 🙂

Being a 2010, your car probably has the original version of the timing chain tensioner that's known for being crap, in which case it'll need the upgraded parts kit (03F 198 158 B ) which runs to about 100 GBP on its own. Have a read through this thread for more background:

I'm inclined to think my front ARB bushes are not in great shape based on the rattle coming from the left side and the creaking noise on the right. Looking at the service manual and parts catalogues, the OEM repair is to drop the front subframe and replace the entire ARB. Doing some searching around, there are replacement bush kits available, but none from manufacturers I've heard of, suggesting that they're not a particularly good solution. So two questions: 1. Anyone know if it's possible to replace the ARB without dropping the subframe? 2. Any source for reputable/decent bushing kits for these as an alternative? PR code for the ARB is 0AE, diameter 23.6 mm.

One of those things that comes up repeatedly around here is the thorny issue of rear suspension ride height and how to improve cars that may be sagging. I'm not going to present a solution to that question, as there are quite a lot of variables involved. What I have put together though is a summary of the different spring/damper combinations used on the rear of the Superb which should cover most of the possibilities for those who want to stick with OE parts if they're modifying their stock configuration; this is attached here as a pdf along with the geometry table from the service manual. Some caveats: I don't have access to a dealer version of ETKA, only some online versions: the information may not be complete as a result (come of the online catalogues are buggy at times) Even assuming that the catalogues I've found are complete, there may still be data missing from the catalogues I've come across a few inconsistencies that I've had to make an educated guess on What you do with this information is entirely your own business: I've done the best I can but if you mess up your car using it it's not my fault Changing the rear suspension without also changing the front could be problematic I'm planning to do a similar exercise for front suspension when I can make some time for it Some known issues: There are two raised ride height configurations available but I can only find information for the lower of the two (+10 mm over standard) The raised ride height configurations I can find seem to be listed exclusively for the 4x4 model I've no idea if the FWD model had this option or not and can't find information on it either way Some dampers in 1JA have a VIN split listed for the P/Ns pre-facelift This is included as an additional line in the table for the post split numbers In 1JC there is an additional damper part number listed with no associated spring PR codes It's listed as 'Other?' in the table In the main table, the lines highlighted in green represent the spring part number while lines highlighted in lilac represent the damper part number. To look up a configuration, find the weight range PR code at the top then drill down to the damper PR code on the left. every spring/damper PR code combination has a unique spring/damper combination. The additional tables below this are to explain/clarify what's going on. The weight range assignments are a relative ranking of the spring stiffness with 1 being softest, 14 being stiffest. As you can see in the table, the part numbers for a given weight range vary depending on the chassis/damper spec e.g. 0YB for 1JA is different to 0YB for 1JC, etc. Not every chassis spec includes all weight ranges. What is consistent in the springs is the relationship between paint codes and part number (with one exception: 0YA and 0YB for 1JC have the same paint code but different P/Ns - probably an error in the catalogue). Weight ranges 11-13 don't appear to be assigned on the Superb based on what I can find in the catalogue. An interesting thing that jumps out is that the spring alone does not determine ride height. In the table, 1JA/0YG uses the same spring as 1JD/0YA, even though the latter is 10 mm higher: the damper is what adds the extra 10 mm. The four damper configurations listed in the catalogue are fairly self explanatory. As noted above, the higher of the rough road combinations is not listed in the catalogues I have access to. Greenline is not listed in these, but the common opinion is that it's using the Sport chassis. rear suspension PR code summary.pdf