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demonufo

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Everything posted by demonufo

  1. Standard shocks (which are Bilstein as far as I can tell) do not have enough rebound when lowered from their standard ride height. They're pretty lousy at the best of times (even new) but they're even bouncier and less resistant lower down. In my experience, it's always been buy cheap, buy twice. I have also found that mid-priced coilovers is still a better option than trying to scrimp on shocks and springs.
  2. Never tried Powerflex on the rear, but did try them on the wishbones, and within a year had to replace them, so went with Superpro all round. Nearly 6 years and they're still as tight as a drum. Rear beam bushes were a bit of a pig to remove though, but it's a lot easier with the axle away from the car.
  3. Hmm, never had this issue so can't comment. Had plenty of standard Pagid too (from Euro) as well as Ferrodo DS2500's. I take it you've been mapped to allow left foot braking then. The one thing I wish I'd done. :(
  4. Hahahaha. Awesome chief. Still, at least I can see from the other clock that she's being driven properly.
  5. Mine slow down after about 30 seconds, but on a cold start they often go berserk for that time. Thanks for the pointers Phil, you're a star.
  6. That's alright. Lloyd only does about 50 miles a year. How many you got on the odometer now, Lloyd?
  7. I might have a load of stuff to collect from Swansea all being well next weekend, so that might work out nicely. Thankyou for your kind offer. :clap:
  8. I never switch AC off, but it's only a recent thing so point noted. Cheers.
  9. Hmmm. Mine have started sounding like a UFO taking off and going flat out on cold startups (most of the time). Perhaps I'd better look for a set too...
  10. TPS were supposed to be allowed general customers to purchase parts. I guess it's a regional thing. I don't have any issues getting parts out of either Kidlington or Swindon. Always worth turning up in person and seeing if they'll set up an account. Is what I did.
  11. Just found my rear windscreen smashed. Anybody got a rear tailgate for a black estate, preferably RS?
  12. Since we're talking about a diesel, I'd stick with Darkside. RS I'd say R-tech every time.
  13. Had this in several MkI's now. Usually the motors are fine. What normally fails is the internal plastic parts of the headlights for the adjustment that attach to the motors. My first one almost worked in reverse, and the other not at all. Unfortunately, this means a replacement headlight. But quite frankly, for the massive improvement in light a new headlight unit brings (even when the old ones look okay) it is well worth the money.
  14. Did somebody sprinkle cress seed down there as a joke?
  15. Realize I'm nearly a year late, but most commonly it is the plastic that the motor connects to that breaks, which sounds like your issue. New headlights really do make the world of difference though, even when they're not buggered.
  16. Drop links, arb bushes, trackrod end, bottom ball joint, any of these. Even suspension top mount as a minor possibility...
  17. It could be a vast number of things. The first suspect is usually the Mass Air Flow meter. Check for fault codes.
  18. I've got 3+ years on my Philips Extreme Vision and they've even been in two different sets of headlights and a minor prang which wrote the front bumper off. Also it should be noted that mine is modified so that the dipped beam is still on when on main beam, and as an ex-Volvo owner and a biker I tend to keep my dipped beam on in all lights and weathers, so they've had a fair lot of abuse. Every time I would say decent bulbs and decent headlights (my new standard headlights made one hell of a difference even with the standard bulbs in) as opposed to HID kits which in normal headlights do not illuminate the road very well at all. The definition and pattern is lousy.
  19. Better get that tracking adjusted/check all ball joints thoroughly then. Shouldn't be wearing on the inside...
  20. Sorry, but the oil extraction pumps are a rubbish idea and often leave sludge behind. At least it has a chance of running out/being washed out when drained properly. Found too many grubby sump pans on fork lifts to even consider using one on anything that I actually care about.
  21. I agree with this totally. The standard shocks aren't great at the best of times and they just do not respond well to lowering, and from what many say do not last long either when lowered.
  22. The only options for vRS are genuine standard and H&R. Nobody else makes any anymore that are correctly rated for the vRS any more and if you buy cheap springs I guarantee that it will sit higher than yiu expect and bounce like a bitch. There is no such thing as a free lunch.
  23. The Sachs rear dampers I fitted to my Estate were crap after about a year... Also, Eibach haven't done any correct vRS springs/shocks combination kits in the 3 years plus that I have owned mine (they no longer have vRS correct springs), so I'm not surprised they didn't fare well. For springs, the only correct options that I know of are either genuine stock, or H&R Lowering springs for the vRS. Bilstein do several different models to suit though. There are always Koni FST's spring/shock kits as an option for Saloons as well (but not for Estates) The arb bushes may simply be that they still have creaky plastic collars on the anti roll bar which are usually more problematic than the bushes themselves. Buy yourself some 17mm diameter Superpro poly bushes (this is normal on a 19mm bar), make sure the plasic collars have been smashed off, clean up the bar, lube, fit the superpro bushes, and forget. Shouldn't give you any more trouble. (You MAY need to use longer bolts to get the new bushes to fit in and squash down though, but you can always refit the original bolts once they are properly located.)
  24. Besides which, what with brake fluid being hygrascopic an' all, who are we to judge how often brake fluid should be changed in other countries/climates/levels of humidity etc. Changing brake fluid every two years is most definitely noticeable and advantageous (as a motorcyclist you REALLY notice the difference) so every 12-15 months is hardly overkill.
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