sabredylan

You'll probably have to import some. I've looked for some in this country but with no luck. The supplier I'm using is DRIVESHAFTS SHOP: Stock, Performance Drive Shafts, Aluminum Drive Shaft, Racing Axles. They have kits ranging from 400 bhp to 750 bhp 400 bhp 500 bhp 750 bhp You'll also have to change the drive flanges on the gearbox to take the bigger inner cv joint. I'm considering the 750 bhp kit because it comes with the flanges and its not going to break. A belt and braces approach I suppose. The Cupra R drive shafts dont fit as its a six speed box and the shafts are equal length. To be honest If i was in your position and looking to swap the clutch and install a diff, i'd put a six speed box in there. I know the gears are shorter, but the box is triple shaft, you get equal length driveshafts and it wont break. With 320 lb/ft torque, you are on the limit with a 5 speed.

That is correct. Probably done to help minimise understeer to be honest. Didn't work though did it.

On the powerflex site, the bushes shown are for the Octavia range. The Vrs has a 19mm front bar like an Audi TT (ie long drop links that bolt to the strut). The 21mm and 23mm bushes mentioned are for other Octy's in the range. These have a roll bar which bolts via short drop links to the lower control arms. To sum up, you're right the bar is 19mm and these are the bushes you want. Look on the Audi TT 2wd page on the Powerflex site. Ps if your bar has plastic bush insert sleeves, check their condition. The inserts can crack and wear, causing the bar to knock. Its a fault rectified by fitting a later replacement bar with metal welded inserts. Hope this helps

Its also a suggestion to uprate the driveshafts with an atb diff. Putting the majority of 300 bhp through one driveshaft as the torque is shifted about, soon breaks cv joints. The cv joints on the Octy Vrs are the weakest ones of all the vag range. excess play in the joint and the diff changes the power about alot more, even in a straight lin. This results in some very unstable motoring. Sorry for pointing out the disadvantages, but I'm just sharing the experiences I've had.

You have to be very careful in the wet with atb diffs, especially if you're running big power. They are fantastic in the dry, but spin both wheels on a bend in the wet and you'll be in a hedge. I've had this experience a few times now, but thankfully I avoided the hedge. In damp weather I always leave the traction control on now.

Just had some of the new Vibra Tech mounts fitted. NVH has gone up alot, but I'm hoping they're going to bed in a bit. I was going to fix a rattle on my dash, but it doesn't seem to matter now as everything else is vibrating. On a positive side, power is put down better and handling has improved.

There's one on ebay. eBay.co.uk: VW GOLF R32 REAR DIFF,BRAKE CALIPER,DISCS,DRIVE SHAFTS (item 290056985948 end time 05-Dec-06 19:20:57 GMT)

I have a straight through 3" Blueflame exhaust and down pipe, which could be why I had extra NVH. Put a small silencer where the cat used to be and it quietened it.

Yes it would put a cel light up. You would have to get the rear exhaust sensor turned off, which can be done with certain remaps. Also you will get alot more noise and vibration with a decat.

Give Grant a ring at AET Turbochargers 01924894171. He will give you advice a plenty. I'd speak to Mike first, as the Jabba manifold is designed for the IHI and is a bit too close to the block to get a good sized Garrett in there You'll struggle getting over 400 with the IHI, I don't know many who've managed it. Awesome mid range turbo though.

If its black and silver you want, I've got some 60mm ones. You can have them mate. Measure the diameter you need and drop me a pm with your address. I'll post them out to you.

Contact Wheelbase-direct on 0161 6280000. Ask for CARL, tell him which wheels and he'll post the badges to you. They are "Gel Badges" and look the part. He can get the badges in traditional green and silver or black and silver.

No, not harsh at all. It just tightens everything up.

The braces were about £7 each and the solid bushes were £22 per side. All plus vat. Had the braces welded on in the end and its worked well. I replaced the subframe bolts as well and they are about £5 each.

Looks good, they really suit the car:thumbup:

Yep, welded the braces on and fitted the solid subframe bushes. Makes the front end much more rigid and improves performance of dog bone. Also front end lift feels like its been reduced and there's zero wheel hop, no matter how hard you accelerate.

Audi rs4 has different stud centres to the skoda

Eddie, I asked kev about this and he seems to think a 2005 Transporter has the same master cylinder, but with bigger pistons. Needs confirming if it will fit, the diagram looked like it would.

Had 20" A8's But just swapped to 19" new RS4.

Mine's got plenty of clearance!!!

To be honest I've found that my Octy puts the power down much better with bigger wheels, especially if its been remapped. Cuts out a lot of wheel spin.

Is your engine back together so soon Eddie, or are they pics just for demo and fit?

Eddie, give Bill a ring at Badger 5. He's got a 1.9 with a big port head, albeit with an IHI. He can give you some advice. Look at the difference in port size in the pic below.

Even though Jbs haven't suggested the big port head, I'd still consider it. You can take advantage of the extra cc and extra air provided by the turbo. Whats the point of increasing capacity and air flow, then stangle it at the head. Have a look at the head comparison below.