sabredylan

Its a gt 3071 wg. Basically a gt 30 squeezed into a gt 28 housing. Its the biggest set up for that design, with a bigger cold side. Good for top end power from better breathing and flows enough for 450 hp. It will probably give more but you reduce the life of the turbo.

Eddie, does the extra cc's make such a difference to the spool on the 3071? Mine comes on full boost at about 4500 rpm and thats with the 2871. I know James has laughing gas on his to reduce lag. Also have you not considered a big port head?

You know, you soon get bored of slapping Evo's and STi's Eddie..............Nah just kidding. I still get cramp from smiling!!

Well I've been in touch with parts and it appears to be bad news. The V- bracket is a welded piece on the TT subframe and not bolted as I thought. The TT subframe with bracket is £211 + vat. The bracket where the brace connects to the body is also welded to the floor pan. I can feel a bit of fabrication coming on. The car's at Jbs soon, so I'll see what kev can come up with. May end up fitting like the pic in my previous post to just stiffen the subframe itself. If anyone has any ideas please post them up.

I'm hoping they will fit. All floor pans/subframes look the same. There's two mounting holes on the rear of the subframe, which look like they are for the v shaped bracket. I'll find out more today and keep you informed. The bushes will fit, so thats the main thing. They offer far more rigidity than the standard 1 piesce rubber bush.

Before anyone buys the braces, I've found a pic of the TT Roadster chassis. There's a couple of mounting brackets for these braces which needs looking into. You can see in the pic below. I'll do some digging this week and get some part numbers.

Well the bits have arrived!!! I must say that I'm really impressed. The braces look very strong, being made from steel tubing with an inch diameter. The uprated subframe bushes are about as uprated as they come. The are solid aluminium, with about 1mm rubber coating. That subframe is going nowhere. As promised, here are the part numbers:- 8N7 199 401 - BRACE (X2) N 019 5024 - BOLTS FOR BRACES (X8) 8N0 199 282C - UPPER BUSH (X2) 8N0 199 282D - LOWER BUSH (X2) N 907 528 01 - SUBFRAME STRETCH BOLT WITH BIGGER WASHER (X2) Here are some pics.

Should Have my bits this week, so I'll post them asap.

Made a few enquiries looking for poly subframe bushes. Got an email from eurosportacc.com, stating that they will have uprated subfram bushes next month. They are made from a material called Derlin and apparantly make a big difference to the power delivery. The down side is that the may transmit more niose and vibration. Think I'll be staying with the 2 piece VAG bush.

To be honest Audi and VW dealers can be a bit off, if the part is for another vehicle. I've always used VAG Parts (01793487700). They are cheaper and post it to your door. They have access to part diagrams of all the VAG range, so you can compare part numbers etc. Ask for Alan. I've had a search and can't find any poly bushes for the front subframe our chassis. The only ones I could find were for a golf mk3 and they said the bushes might transmit a bit of vibration. Might be better with the two piece from VAG in that case.

I was told that the small rear braces and bushes made a bigger difference than just the front brace. The braces are a diy job, as the mounting points are already there. You will probably have to drill a couple of holes for the rear braces though. The bushes will be a bit more involved, as you need a bush extractor. This is the write up from someone who has made his own rear braces. For 2 years I've been experimenting with dogbones, motor mounts, alignment settings, etc. trying to get the front end of my 337 to stop understeering and plowing. I had a '92 Jetta GLi that cornered on rails, so I couldn't believe a 337 couldn't do it too. When I'd go real stiff with dogbone bushings and/or tranny & motor mount, the bite of the front end improved alot but the noise was unbearable. After endless experimentation I realized something important. When I stiffened up motor mounts or dogbone bushings it's wasn't the reduced engine movement that improved handling (think about it, why would it be?), it was the engine acting to reduce movement of the subframe through the dogbone! A few months ago I removed the subframe from my 337. I was amazed at how flexible the whole thing was and how wimpy the rear subframe bushings were. The subframe and these bushings are the key to getting a MKIV to stop understeering! Those that say "improve your handling by limiting engine motion with our poly dogbone bushings/motor mounts" have it completely backward. It's not less engine movement that aids handling, it's less subframe movement. When I had the subframe out, I strengthened it by welding steel bar-stock braces inside and outside. This helped, but the biggest change came from making new rear subframe bushings. It took a lot of trial and error so I can't provide detailed instructions here, but I took polyurethane boat trailer rollers and turned them down on the shaft of a bench grinder. A slightly oversized top and bottom half are put in the subframe then squeezed to hold the subframe tightly when the bolt is torqued down. I'm back to a stock dogbone mount and don't need anything tighter. The interior isn't as quiet as stock, but it's far better than with poly dogbone bushings. What a change in the handling! The steering is far more accurate than my brother's M3 and the front end just won't give up in corners. I can throw the tail out any time I want, or balance it in a 4 wheel drift. Hard accleration creates no front end lift. None. When I get wheel spin, it's both front wheels equally with no wheel hop at all. I just can't believe that all of the other MKIV tweakers out there have missed this one. This chap made his own rear bushes for the front subframe out of polyurethane, but there is already 2 piece uprated bush available from VAG. I don't think there is an aftermarket poly bush available, but if there is can you post it on the thread please.

The braces should fit all configerations, as the sub frame is the same. If you look at the pic below, you can see a home made brace fitted. The sub frame already has threaded mounting holes. You may have to drill a hole near the rear sub frame bush though. The uprated 2 piece sub frame bushes, are fitted to vag cars with high torque, ie TT Vr6 etc. The bushes on the Octy are single piece and not as strong.

The subframe on the Octy Vrs is quite flexible, obviously being bad for handling and power deliverly. A popular modification is to put the Audi TT lower brace on to improve the rigidity. On the TT Roadster, this is taken a step further with the addition of uprated 2 piece rear subframe bushes and rear cross braces. You can see these numbered 2 and 34 on the picture below. Apparantly they make a bigger difference than the front brace, reducing understeer, wheel hop and giving better power delivery. I've just ordered some from VAG PARTS (01793487700). The cross braces (34) are £7.00 each and the uprated rear bushes (2) are £22.00per side.

I have a tow bar fitted. Got it from Skoda parts. It is a detachable and fits under the rear bumper via a small hole. When detached you can't see it and the electrics fold up into bumper on a spring loaded bracket. This makes it totally invisible. The price was

The brick wall over 120, is because of the retrictive nature of the standard turbo and manifold. You will reach the top speed, but it will be slower than you'd expect. My Vrs was like that before I swapped the turbo. The K03s is a very small turbo made for low rpm response and less lag, but the trade off is it runs out of breath at the top end. Its nothing to worry about.

If it ticks at idle its the injectors. It should stop when you rev it.

Have a look on atpturbo.com. They are now shipping the eliminater turbos which fit the standard manifold, or uprated manifold which they also sell. Its worth considering and would be stealthy as well.

still got front and rear neuspeed bars from my vrs. Make me an offer Mr Gooch.

The poly bush kit comes in 3 pieces. Just put the 2 bigger bushes in and leave the small round bush standard. You get too much vibration with all 3.

A quick question for those with KW suspension. What setting do you have your rear struts on. Mines currently on about half a turn, but i've stiffened the rear bar and don't know if I need to incease the rear damping as well.

Having spoken to JBS about the Vrs 4x4 conversion they are working on, the only body work is to the boot floor pan. Apparantly floor pan sections are readily available and inexpensive. It also means that the R32 floor pan section can be installed, allowing for uprated anti roll bar, tie bars etc, but would mean you have a space saver spare. No news on price yet, but I'm assured it will be far cheaper than buying a 4x4 and swapping all my bits over. Been really tempted to buy a 4x4 lately, having seen a few for sale and the low price. I feel I'd loose money juggling cars though. Labour charge for swapping engine's, mapping and all the new bits reaquired is putting me off.

I agree that fitting a Quaife is not an easy task. I watched Kev at JBS fit mine. Every gear and shaft has to be removed from the box to get to the diff, using pullers and so on. Then the crown wheel removed from the old diff by driling out each mount, before rebuilding and setting it up. Its best left to the experts, who have fitted them before. I'd strongly recommend an uprated clutch at the same. I kept my standard clutch, but it started slipping very quickly because of the extra traction the diff generates. Its the best handling mod you can buy for your fwd.

Is the scooby uprated? It shouldn't waste the octy like it does in the vid.